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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    Well, apart from self-drain and questionable Chinese quality, one more thing: AA-powered devices typically have "low battery" indicators triggered by voltage drop. In this case howewer, DC/DC converter will provide steady 1.5V output until full discharge and disconnection of battery by embedded protection PCB.

    For examples like bike rear light, I'd prefer to see visual decrease of brightness and/or blinking "Battery Low" indicator, instead of sudden shutdown...
    Yes I suppose that's true to some degree but there aren't many dedicated bike lamps that use these kind of cells that operate with voltage indicators or digital run-time estimators. With most of my torches when the batteries are drained the light just goes out. Only my better 18650 torches will give a low voltage warning. I can think of only a few rear lights that still use AAA or AA cells or perhaps a front lamp like the B&M Ixon IQ which uses AA's. That said if I was using one of the very nice Ixon IQ's I would likely get a brighter output for a longer period of time using these new types of cells. Yes, it would throw off the warning device built into the lamp driver but if you know how long the lamp will run with the different batteries you might prefer the trade off unless you are one of those folk who like to run out the full charge of your batteries while on a ride. Speaking personally, I've ridden with torches and with dedicated bike lights and almost everything I own either has no indicators or does and I never really pay too much attention to them anyway. I just make sure I have some kind of back up if needed if indeed in the rare event I run out of battery power. ( Only my newer Raveman lamps give me a digital read out of estimated run time and just how accurate those are is anyone's guess )

  2. #402
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    I'm not sure if this was discussed, but didn't find through search.

    I was looking to see if there was a different battery pack available that might be better than the ones that were reviewed and came across this Trustfire EBO2 branded one on amazon (shipped from CN) but can't find anything about it. As you can see, the external design is a bit different with cutouts for routing straps at every corner, it uses an aluminum capped bolt to close it, and the battery level indicator is on the opposite side from the cord.

    The weirder thing is that I went to trustfire's website and came across what has to be the most innovative/stupid battery pack idea: one that goes in your top tube. It looks like it does not interface with the star nut (which would seem to get in the way?), tightening the bolt just works to compress tension rings to hold it in place. Am I missing something?

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    I'm not sure if this was discussed, but didn't find through search.

    I was looking to see if there was a different battery pack available that might be better than the ones that were reviewed and came across this Trustfire EBO2 branded one on amazon (shipped from CN) but can't find anything about it. As you can see, the external design is a bit different with cutouts for routing straps at every corner, it uses an aluminum capped bolt to close it, and the battery level indicator is on the opposite side from the cord...
    What draws my attention to this cell holder is that there appears to be some kind of button to the left of the voltage indicators. Yeah, yeah..all fine that it has slots for the Velcro straps and an Aluminum top tightener. More important is the button. If that button is some kind of an on/off switch that would be nice. That means you might be able to store the holder with cells and not have any self discharge. That would be a nice touch if indeed it is a switch that controls the battery discharge circuit.

    About the other link; Interesting idea to put a battery inside the head tube.. Not sure though what type of cell is being used and what the total capacity or voltage is. The lamp kit looked like it came with two battery sets ( a normal square 4-cell and the one for the head tube...?? ) but maybe I'm wrong about that.

  4. #404
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    So a bit more info on the battery box can be found from the pics on this polish website https://lampkinarower.pl/pakiety-aku...-port-usb.html

    According to the diagram on the box, the button switches from 8.4v to 5v USB output. Claimed standby drain is 75 micro amps.

    The most significant difference, and the reason I'm going to give it a shot, is that if you look at one of the pics on this aliexpress listing it appears to have springs on both terminal sides, which may help with the problem of disconnecting on bumpy trails.

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    ...The most significant difference, and the reason I'm going to give it a shot, is that if you look at one of the pics on this aliexpress listing it appears to have springs on both terminal sides, which may help with the problem of disconnecting on bumpy trails.
    If there are springs on both ends of the cells and they are fairly stiff, It should work pretty well. I'll be interested to hear your thoughts and experiences once you have one.

    If it turns out well, I'd likely buy a few and gut out all the USB and other BS and end up with a good battery case.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    If there are springs on both ends of the cells and they are fairly stiff, It should work pretty well. I'll be interested to hear your thoughts and experiences once you have one.

    If it turns out well, I'd likely buy a few and gut out all the USB and other BS and end up with a good battery case.
    I might be interested in one of these myself. The switch ( on top ) is there to control the output between USB and normal 2S/2P output (?). That said the USB cord looks like it is connected in parallel with the lamp output cord. ( ? ) That means possibly only one at a time is usable (?). There is no mention if there is any protective circuitry for the normal lamp output operation. If the stand-by current drain is 75 micro-amps I'm guessing the USB circuit is powered full time but access to lamp or USB output is only provided when the switch is in the proper position. (?) I'm assuming this but this might not be true if the one cord going into the top of the box has 4 wires inside the casing and provides two separate circuit output paths . Would be better if you could operate both outputs at the same time but really there is no mention it has that capability....only that the switch can turn USB on or off. ( the big question; is the switch double pole / double throw? )

    I wouldn't mind having one as long as the lamp output current can power my XP3. Would be nice to know more about it though before buying. Personally I'd like the option of using both USB and lamp at the same time. Not sure if it will do that though.

  7. #407
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    There are also cases like this for 2-6 cells. Wondering if they had changed circuit. Based on description is hard to tell.

    It is obvious the new one Desertride has linked and this one has no sense contact to the bottom of case. So no proper protection has been implemented. Making short on sprins is still quite easy to do.

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