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  1. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    Both my packs from HunkLee have performed flawlessly.
    V

    I plan to order the 6800 mAh pac next. Could wish these used magicshine connectors, but oh well.

  2. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigmode View Post
    V

    I plan to order the 6800 mAh pac next. Could wish these used magicshine connectors, but oh well.
    I really don't get you guys...

    Why not make your own pack? Cheaper, better (waterproof case and Velcro pouch too, so you can easily attach it to your bike) and you end up with Magicshine connector. Also can replace cells individually on the long run or just remove them for balancing.

    2x 2 pcs (4 total) Protected Panasonic 3400 (6800mAh) Link (only $16.5 use coupon "bgf120" at checkout) = $33 (Just to be clear, this is exactly the same batter as the one you are considering, only individual protection and not a single circuit one. So quality and capacity are the same.).

    1x Panovo 18650 waterproof Battery Pack Case Link = $13

    That is a total of $43! (instead of $48 that you are planning to spend on the Hunk Lee version)

    Please explain to me how this is better??? Any option you look at (no matter what capacity you go for), my recommendation above still turns out cheaper. It is an honest question. You are not the first person with similar intentions recently here, so I must be missing something. That is why I ask.

    Don't get me wrong, Hunk's packs have been perfect. I even considered it initially (We even had correspondence). But then Dir brought it to my attention that they are not as good of a bargain (as best price/value option available) as one might initially think. So you see, you have a WAY better alternative and you even save some bucks.

  3. #503
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    I really don't get you guys...

    Why not make your own pack? Cheaper, better (waterproof case and Velcro pouch too, so you can easily attach it to your bike) and you end up with Magicshine connector. Also can replace cells individually on the long run or just remove them for balancing.

    2x 2 pcs (4 total) Protected Panasonic 3400 (6800mAh) Link (only $16.5 use coupon "bgf120" at checkout) = $33 (Just to be clear, this is exactly the same batter as the one you are considering, only individual protection and not a single circuit one. So quality and capacity are the same.).

    1x Panovo 18650 waterproof Battery Pack Case Link = $13

    That is a total of $43! (instead of $48 that you are planning to spend on the Hunk Lee version)

    Please explain to me how this is better??? Any option you look at (no matter what capacity you go for), my recommendation above still turns out cheaper. It is an honest question. You are not the first person with similar intentions recently here, so I must be missing something. That is why I ask.

    Don't get me wrong, Hunk's packs have been perfect. I even considered it initially (We even had correspondence). But then Dir brought it to my attention that they are not as good of a bargain (as best price/value option available) as one might initially think. So you see, you have a WAY better alternative and you even save some bucks.
    You make some good points but being BETTER is not about just shaving a couple bucks. Some people like "convenience" and so go wtih a pre-made Hung lee type battery. Those people already have the battery bag and charger. The issue here is "choice". When you have choice you get what you want and spend what you want. Choices are good.

    Yes, you can buy separate cells and make your battery. Helps if you have a spot welder but it can be done without one...OR...you can use the cell holders. Since these cells holders are popping up all over the place I might just give them a try ( again ) myself.

    @Hunklee....I'll second the request for the better MagicShine type connectors that have the rubber shield. The connectors with the shielding just seem more secure. A secure connection is better and more preferable. Provide these and you will sell more batteries.

    That said, I just noticed that the connectors you use work perfectly with my old DiNotte 600L. Not sure if DiNotte still uses the same type of connectors but if they do consider this a heads-up to people who have the newer DiNotte type lights.

  4. #504
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    @cat
    But I never said that it was better cause it is cheaper. I clearly stated that it was cheaper AND better. Cheaper as in money. Better as is practicality as listed (Waterproof, solid, bag, option to switch cells if the need arises, magicshine connection, etc. ).
    And there is NO soldering involved. You just screw on the top once.

    I am not sure why you brought the question of charger up, you need one either way.

    You say I make a good point. Well thank you, but I am sorry, YOU don't. We could be talking of choice if were deciding between a BMW or a LEXUS. However in this case I don't see any PROs for one of the options (not a single one). What convenience are you talking about? As a matter of fact you have to spend time and materials to try and make the pre pack moisture proof.
    And yes choices are good, but you make them based on something. You have the choice of buying cheap packs too (half the price). You don't see me recommending that.
    My exact question was to understand the choice as I can't see even a single viable/rational aspect on why to go for the more expensive one, when you obviously don't gain anything. Remember we are not talking about clothes here.

    Don't get me wrong. If you made your choice in the past. When the better alternative was not known to you, then I have no questions. The people I question are the ones making the decision now.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    @cat...

    You say I make a good point. Well thank you, but I am sorry, YOU don't. We could be talking of choice if were deciding between a BMW or a LEXUS. However un this case I don't see any PROs for one of the options (not one). What convenience are you talking about? As a matter of fact you have to spend time and materials to try and make it moisture proof.
    And yes choices are good, but you make them based on something. You have the choice of buying cheap packs too (half the price). You don't see me recommending that.
    My exact question was to understand the choice as I can't see even a single viable/rational aspect on why to go for the more expensive one, when you obviously don't gain anything. Remember we are not talking about clothes here.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
    When I spoke of convenience I was implying that some people really don't want to fuss over something like a battery. They want something ready to go right out of the box ( so to speak ) A pre-built battery ( like the Hunklee set-ups ) are pretty much ready to go. Since making the battery more weather resistant is basically a choice the user can use as is or can put it in a battery bag, wrap it in plastic or whatever. Some people don't ride in rain. ( Yeah, I know...rain happens )

    Like I've mentioned before in some of my past posts I've used cell holders before but not these new 7.4 volt ones made in China. For me the main advantage of a cell holder is that you can charge the cells individually (if you so wish ) although if you have a 4 cell 7.4 volt charger you can use that as well. When I used the one I have I just got tired of fussing with the holder as the cells tended to move around a bit causing the lamp to go out on occasion. Getting it dialed in was a chore. Hopefully the Chinese ones won't be like the one I had.

    Anyway, that was my choice but at the time but I didn't have a 7.4 volt holder, mine was for 14.8 volts ( all cells in series ) and I didn't own a 14.8 volt charger at the time. I had to charge each cell separately. Anyway, I ended up not using that lamp anymore so now I'm back to using pre-assembled 7.4 volt batteries. I like pre-assembled stuff because it's easy. If I get one of those 7.4 volt holders and end up liking it I might just change my choice of set-up. Either way I'm not spending a boat load of money so if the holders work and I have no mounting problem with my bike I will go with it.

    Anyway like I said before you made some good points and have given the readers some more options which are always good to have. Thank you for that. Hope this explains my position better.

  6. #506
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    Dear Cat,

    I hope I didn't come out offensive or anything like that. I understand about the hassle of the 14.8v pack and so on. Having to take out all the cells after every use to charge, would indeed be an inconvenience. However in the case I made you don't need to do the above.

    Coming back to the convenience part, I still think that its a bit far-fetched to say that it is in anyway inconvenience, that upon receipt of the parcel, one has to (only once) pop in the cell in the case and screw on the the lid.
    You cant be serious calling that inconvenient. Its like saying that pressing the button to turn on the bike light when you go riding is inconvenient. I understand are trying to rationalize a decision, but this (saying it's inconvenient) is going a bit too far.

    These Panovo cases are not 2 days old. They have been ordered, used and reviewed by other forum mates. Someone was even nice enough and took it completely apart a made photos for us to see (I can link it if need be). So its not really a risk or blind decision. The plastic is not going to rust away or anything.

  7. #507
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    Recommend a 4 cell charger too, if you can--I'll need one of those as well. So this battery pack has *proven* to not short under offroad conditions?




    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    I really don't get you guys...

    Why not make your own pack? Cheaper, better (waterproof case and Velcro pouch too, so you can easily attach it to your bike) and you end up with Magicshine connector. Also can replace cells individually on the long run or just remove them for balancing.

    2x 2 pcs (4 total) Protected Panasonic 3400 (6800mAh) Link (only $16.5 use coupon "bgf120" at checkout) = $33 (Just to be clear, this is exactly the same batter as the one you are considering, only individual protection and not a single circuit one. So quality and capacity are the same.).

    1x Panovo 18650 waterproof Battery Pack Case Link = $13

    That is a total of $43! (instead of $48 that you are planning to spend on the Hunk Lee version)

    Please explain to me how this is better??? Any option you look at (no matter what capacity you go for), my recommendation above still turns out cheaper. It is an honest question. You are not the first person with similar intentions recently here, so I must be missing something. That is why I ask.

    Don't get me wrong, Hunk's packs have been perfect. I even considered it initially (We even had correspondence). But then Dir brought it to my attention that they are not as good of a bargain (as best price/value option available) as one might initially think. So you see, you have a WAY better alternative and you even save some bucks.

  8. #508
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    Nitecore intellicharger i4 might be OK, it doesn't do balance charging. It is about $19-22 and charges also NI-MH cells.

  9. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigmode View Post
    Recommend a 4 cell charger too, if you can--I'll need one of those as well. So this battery pack has *proven* to not short under offroad conditions?
    I can't speak to this myself but I've not read yet of anyone having any problems. A four cell holder has the advantage of being more versatile. With it you can use any brand / capacity battery you wish. You can also carry spares with you on a ride. Add to that you only need two cells to make it work so start with four cells when you leave for the ride and carry two cells for back up. In essence you have a 4-6 or 8 cell battery depending on how many cells you want to carry.

    The only question I have has to do with the small voltage drops associated with friction battery contacts. Those might have a cumulative effect on how well the charger charges the battery if using a 4-cell charger. Now before you poo-poo this thought according to Battery University just a *0.2volt difference in peak voltage ( *per cell ) of a battery equates to 30% of the initial capacity ( of that cell ). Chargers are voltage sensitive. They will detect every voltage drop in the circuit and stop charging when all those voltage drops reach 8.4 volts. How much of a problem this might be, I don't know but it is food for thought. Now if you can charge the cells individually you have a way around that problem "IF" indeed there is a problem.

  10. #510
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    I'm wondering about connectors. I have both kinds and the ones that lock together are more waterproof(shower tested cat?) but maybe the cable strain means they don't last as long. Yes I know I'm not supposed to pull on the cords.

    Hunk do you have a non ebay store? PM please.

  11. #511
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    Thanks. Further comments, anyone?



    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I can't speak to this myself but I've not read yet of anyone having any problems. A four cell holder has the advantage of being more versatile. With it you can use any brand / capacity battery you wish. You can also carry spares with you on a ride. Add to that you only need two cells to make it work so start with four cells when you leave for the ride and carry two cells for back up. In essence you have a 4-6 or 8 cell battery depending on how many cells you want to carry.

    The only question I have has to do with the small voltage drops associated with friction battery contacts. Those might have a cumulative effect on how well the charger charges the battery if using a 4-cell charger. Now before you poo-poo this thought according to Battery University just a *0.2volt difference in peak voltage ( *per cell ) of a battery equates to 30% of the initial capacity ( of that cell ). Chargers are voltage sensitive. They will detect every voltage drop in the circuit and stop charging when all those voltage drops reach 8.4 volts. How much of a problem this might be, I don't know but it is food for thought. Now if you can charge the cells individually you have a way around that problem "IF" indeed there is a problem.

  12. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    These Panovo cases are not 2 days old. They have been ordered, used and reviewed by other forum mates. Someone was even nice enough and took it completely apart a made photos for us to see (I can link it if need be). So its not really a risk or blind decision. The plastic is not going to rust away or anything.
    This was not with the Panovo holder so just a general heads up.

    My experience with holders that have a spring on one end of the cell and a fixed contact on the other is that a good hit causes one or more of the cells to "bounce" on the spring and lose contact momentarily. Depending on what light one is using, the results of this loss of contact will vary. The light I was using when I discovered this would go into a fast flashing mode for a few seconds after contact was regained. Very unsettling in a fast rough rocky trail section! I have found that the orientation one mounts a single spring holder makes a big difference in how much jarring it takes to break contact. Mounted more or less horizontally like a top tube mount it takes a crazy hit to lose the contact. Bottle cage mount and it lose contact easier. Vertical mounting like to the seat post and it loses contact pretty easily.

    I have found that holders with a spring contact on both ends of the cell do not suffer this problem. Soldered/spotwelded packs also do not suffer this problem. Though I personally use holders with springs on each end of the cells, when I sell a light it gets a soldered/spotwelded pack. I do not want the possibility that someone's light blinks out or changes modes in the middle of a rough section.

    I'm curious to know if anyone has really put one of the Panovo cases to the test. I would probably use one the next time I build a light if it does not have any chance of losing contact. I don't really want to buy one just to test though.

  13. #513
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    With this case, Protected cells are such a tight fit, that I am 110% sure that it's impossible for any shorts to happen as neither battery or spring can move.

    As the 2 before me, I have yet to try the case. Mine should arrive this week or next.
    My advice is for you to write pm to members that DO have the case. You can tell them from the comments they made earlier.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  14. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    @Hunklee....I'll second the request for the better MagicShine type connectors that have the rubber shield. The connectors with the shielding just seem more secure. A secure connection is better and more preferable. Provide these and you will sell more batteries.
    I'll second that request too!!
    The other connectors he uses are not waterproo and also don't fit to most of the light out there
    ..just ride...

  15. #515
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    The Battery Thread: 2013

    I have been using a panovo case in my jersey pocket for helmet light. No issues. Case is a game changer for me. Love it.

  16. #516
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    Some questions about the Panovo battery holders: Anyone who owns one of these can you provide some feedback about how well they work when mounted to the bike's top tube?
    ( which is where I would likely mount one ) I'm also wondering what type of 18650 cells you are using, flat top or button top? I ask this because when I use 18650 cells in torches sometimes the flat top cells don't work as well. I figure this phenomenon might carry over to something like a cell holder. As such it is real important to know so you know which type of cell is likely to work better.

    Back when I was using a cell holder I only had button top cells. Since then I have purchased the better Panasonic cells which tend to be flat top ( although button tops are available but harder to find ). I've had problems using flat top cells but thankfully I've always been able to make them work. However I figure with these new cell holders that it MIGHT be a factor. Any user feedback would be most welcome.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 12-17-2013 at 02:07 AM.

  17. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    I have been using a panovo case in my jersey pocket for helmet light. No issues. Case is a game changer for me. Love it.
    I would expect having the holder in a pocket to be quite forgiving. I'm mostly interested in how it works when mounted to the seat post. In my experience that is the most likely place to cause a connection failure. It is also my preferred mounting location.

  18. #518
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    The Battery Thread: 2013

    Flat top panasonics 3400s in mine

  19. #519
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    The Battery Thread: 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I would expect having the holder in a pocket to be quite forgiving. I'm mostly interested in how it works when mounted to the seat post. In my experience that is the most likely place to cause a connection failure. It is also my preferred mounting location.
    Honestly it clamps down with a lot of force. I dont see them moving. But just my observation. I mount my bar batteries in a water bottle.

  20. #520
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    Who can sale such connector? I will look for it in China market too.
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

  21. #521
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    Just contact us by fmabattery(at)hotmail(dot)com for details. Thank you!
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

  22. #522
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    Pls. tell me what kind of connector you wanted, all kinds of...
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

  23. #523
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    Put a magic tab on the top of positive of battery.
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

  24. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by HunkLee View Post
    Who can sale such connector? I will look for it in China market too.
    To buy these you might have to do what everyone elso does, just buy the extension wires and cut the plug off that you want. There is also the "Y" extension cords have two female plugs. Prices range from $2 to $3 each USD.

    I'm sure that there are part warehouses that probably sell these separately. You might have to ask over in the DIY section. Someone over there probably has a better answer. Real important though that the quality of the plug/wire not be real *cheap ( * an inferior product )
    Inferior plugs will have the wire crack and create open circuits which is not good if you want to maintain a customer base.

    The ones you currently use at least look to have strong wire which should hold up over time. If you can find out where MagicShine and Xeccon get their's from you should be good. I'm currently using one of the Xeccon extension wire/connectors for my helmet lamp and it is a real nice looking extension, very sturdy/shielded connector.

  25. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    To buy these you might have to do what everyone elso does, just buy the extension wires and cut the plug off that you want. There is also the "Y" extension cords have two female plugs. Prices range from $2 to $3 each USD.
    While those are compatible, they are not the screw-on (I mean as in no tread or screw cap on it) waterproof type that don't come off on its own from vibration on bike.
    If you are going to do it, then do it right.

    Name:  solarstorm_x2_2000-lumen_dual_head_bicycle_light-4.jpg
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    You have these on lots of popular Chines lights (eg Solarstorm X2), so why make compromise again with sub-par solution.

    BTW: You know who has compatible plug for these lights at now extra cost??? ....... Yeap, you guessed it, the wateproof cases discussed earlier. :-) why fight the best solution when its staring you in the face. As I have said numerous times, its not just cheaper, but better too in yet again another way...

    The Battery Thread: 2013-%24-kgrhqf-qsfjgwho7vdbszzjtwidw%7E%7E60_57.jpg

  26. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    While those are compatible, they are not the screw-on (I mean as in no tread or screw cap on it) waterproof type that don't come off on its own from vibration on bike.
    If you are going to do it, then do it right.
    Lamps that use the screw-on connector sleeve are recent variations from the original MS battery set-ups. While I'm sure there are people who might want a battery with that type of set-up it is not likely not what the majority of bike light users would want since the MS type connector has been around much longer.

    Personally I own both types. The original MS type male plug ( lamp side ) works best with the original "shielded" type female plug. While the lamps with the screw on sleeve work best with the threaded female counter part they also work well with the MS shielded type connector as I have noted before. I personally am using the screw on sleeves with the MS type connectors. I screw the plastic sleeve onto the outer rubber of the MS type female connector and find it gives a very tight hold. No, it likely is not water proof but as long as it doesn't pull apart too easily I'm satisfied with the connection.

    The current connector plug used with the Hunklee batteries are relatively loose. I'd be happier with either the threaded or MS type female connector as both seem to provide a tighter fit ( regardless of the type of male connector ).

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  28. #528
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    Very good find artemha. I only wish that there would be a version where you could use your own (high grade) wire. The real DIY variant.
    I guess this one is the usual cheap wire that might break in cold weather.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  29. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Flat top panasonics 3400s in mine
    Are you using protected panasonic 3400s in this holder?

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    ... and not only high grade silicone wire but also thicker one that is able to pull more current than 2A like this from ali. I bought a wire and a simple 5.5/2.1 male connector in local shop because I need a wire that pulls about 6-7A for my light without overheating that wire too much. It is not waterproof but since it is a temporary solution till I find some waterproof connectors it works well. It seems I will replace all connectors on all my bar lights

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Very good find artemha. I only wish that there would be a version where you could use your own (high grade) wire. The real DIY variant.
    I guess this one is the usual cheap wire that might break in cold weather.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  31. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    I need a wire that pulls about 6-7A for my light without overheating that wire too much.
    Aside from wire gauge, I doubt that use of common 5.5/2.1 connectors for such currents is good idea. Even high-quality ones are typically rated at 5A max:
    DC Power Connectors | Mouser

  32. #532
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    How about the ones all over ebay? I ordered a pair to check out, but havent gotten my batteries, so its still in the box. These red bit ones can take up to 2.5mm wires, so AMP draw can't be a problem. I too am considering rewiring everything on the long run. Lights, battery case, charger. However I am getting the feeling that there is going to be too much soup in the meat. Story of our life right?

    Genuine AMP 3 Way Pin Superseal Electrical Waterproof Connector - 1.5-2.5mm Wire | eBay

    Name:  $T2eC16VHJFwFF,EY8gQ6BSMHMQoS(w~~60_12.JPG
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    PS: The 3 pole is not a mistake for me. I want to have option for Balance charging (2S setup). So I never have to open case till batteries die on me.

  33. #533
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    The Battery Thread: 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks04 View Post
    Are you using protected panasonic 3400s in this holder?
    Unprotected at the moment. I have a bunch of protected ones on a slow boat from china.

  34. #534
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    Yes you are right, but as a temporary solution in freezing temps works acceptable, I knew the best max is about ~5A.

    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    Aside from wire gauge, I doubt that use of common 5.5/2.1 connectors for such currents is good idea.
    I like that one, but ordered today a 2 wire version since cell checking is done on separate wires to accomodate 2-3-4S setup. I think it would be quite big because of 2.5sqmm wire - it is similar to one used with xenon headlights on cars.

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    How about the ones all over ebay?

    Genuine AMP 3 Way Pin Superseal Electrical Waterproof Connector - 1.5-2.5mm Wire | eBay

    Name:  $T2eC16VHJFwFF,EY8gQ6BSMHMQoS(w~~60_12.JPG
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    PS: The 3 pole is not a mistake for me. I want to have option for Balance charging (2S setup). So I never have to open case till batteries die on me.

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    I have many lights but all have different battery connectors and I would like to change them so they have the same type.
    The screw on type seems to be nice.
    Would this do?

    A Pair Waterproof Power Connector Plug 2pin LED Cable | eBay

    slightly cheaper than the ones mentioned above.

    How about this one? Even cheaper...
    LED Light Strips DC Male to Female Connector Waterproof Cable 2pin Transparent | eBay

    Thanks

  37. #537
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    That is a 24AWG wire, so it isn't convenient for stronger lights.
    So mine 2 wire connectors are here, definitely they are quite large, borrowed from automotive headlights 3 wire would be even bigger.

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Also the battery pack from KD for the MJ-880 clone was finally delivered by boat to me It contains the same cells as the one Kir has. I would expect the same capacity. All cells charged to 3.82V. But the case is definitely not for frequent opening/closing, one might want to replace the 8 screws for 4 longer ones going through the case with 4 nuts on the opposite side. If the pack is really close to 4.2Ah measured by Kir it is a cheapo option for a replacement pack and should be added to the options list.
    Last edited by MK96; 01-03-2014 at 01:48 AM.

  38. #538
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    The Battery Thread: 2013

    Just got my protected panasonic 3400s from wallbuys. Ordered 11/24. Arrived on 12/31. Ordered 6.

    5 are good.

    #6 is now an unprotected cell. Each cell was wrapped in bubblewrap and packing tape and I nicked the bottom edge of one with a knife which let the pcb come loose.

    It didnt work after rewrapping it. Some bad connection.

  39. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Just got my protected panasonic 3400s from wallbuys. Ordered 11/24. Arrived on 12/31. Ordered 6.

    5 are good.

    #6 is now an unprotected cell. Each cell was wrapped in bubblewrap and packing tape and I nicked the bottom edge of one with a knife which let the pcb come loose.

    It didnt work after rewrapping it. Some bad connection.
    I am getting fed up with Banggood's, they my cells haven't arrived in over 35days. Mean while every other part that I ordered since then has arrived.
    I am considering asking for a refund and getting them from elsewhere. Was Wallbuys the next cheapest you could find?
    Funny that they have the unprotected for a higher price than the protected ones. I am playing with the thought of leaving out the protection. If both the light and charger has cutoff (so no possible over charge or over drain), then its not really needed is it?

    I am not sure I get you. Did you mistakenly damage the protection (while unpacking) or was it loose/bad already?

  40. #540
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    oh,there is a faulty battery from wallbuys? did u complain in paypal ?

  41. #541
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    The Battery Thread: 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    I am getting fed up with Banggood's, they my cells haven't arrived in over 35days. Mean while every other part that I ordered since then has arrived.
    I am considering asking for a refund and getting them from elsewhere. Was Wallbuys the next cheapest you could find?
    Funny that they have the unprotected for a higher price than the protected ones. I am playing with the thought of leaving out the protection. If both the light and charger has cutoff (so no possible over charge or over drain), then its not really needed is it?

    I am not sure I get you. Did you mistakenly damage the protection (while unpacking) or was it loose/bad already?
    Wallbuys was pretty cheap when I purchased. 2 for $15 i think.

    I did damage the wrapping a little. It seemed that it should have been trivial to repair. I have plenty of shrink tape for rewrapping 18650s. However it wasnt making a good connection.

    Im not filing any complaints. I got a good deal. And i can still use the cell.

  42. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Wallbuys was pretty cheap when I purchased. 2 for $15 i think.
    That is indeed much cheaper than BG. I got mine for $17 for 2 (that is after BG coupons). When I checked then and even now, Wallbuys is giving me the same 17 bucks: see

    How did you get yours that cheap?

  43. #543
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    The Battery Thread: 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    That is indeed much cheaper than BG. I got mine for $17 for 2 (that is after BG coupons). When I checked then and even now, Wallbuys is giving me the same 17 bucks: see

    How did you get yours that cheap?
    When I purchased them they had a special. I posted it in this thread back in November.

  44. #544
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    Happy New Year!
    Good news, we have get some waterproof DC5.5/2.1 connectors samples, will list in our store tomorrow, welcome to our ebay store and have a view!
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

  45. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    When I purchased them they had a special. I posted it in this thread back in November.
    Devastating news for me. I asked about my package of 8 batteries (ordered 30th Nov) and they say its probably lost and are giving me a full refund. AAAHHHRRRRR. Those were tha only things missing from my set up. I sold my old light 2 months ago. So now I have to order from somewhere else and wait for who know how long to get them (if I am lucky).
    Truth be told it might have to do with the blocking of batteries at HK and Sing port.
    But am very dissatisfied with BG for using a service that only updated tracking info after 10 days.

    Anyone know of an on going good deal let me know. I am looking to buy unprotected Panasonic now.

  46. #546
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    Panasonic NCR18650B 3.6 Volt 18650 Battery 3400 mAh

    Amazon has decent deals with FREE two day shipping if you're a prime membah... Free shipping over $35 anyway, US shipper.

    Amazon: Panasonic NCR18650B 18650 Battery 3400 mAh

    edit: there is a 30 day "free trial" so you can sign up for Prime and cancel if you dont' want it..

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Anyone know of an on going good deal let me know. I am looking to buy unprotected Panasonic now.

  47. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    Amazon has decent deals with FREE two day shipping if you're a prime membah... Free shipping over $35 anyway, US shipper.

    Amazon: Panasonic NCR18650B 18650 Battery 3400 mAh

    edit: there is a 30 day "free trial" so you can sign up for Prime and cancel if you dont' want it..
    Unfortunately I am in the EU. So that would be amazon.co.uk and its very expensive there http://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-NC...onic+NCR18650B

    That is roughly $50 plus another $15 at least for shipping and that is for just 4pcs. So way over $115 bucks for the 8pcs I need. Definitely not worth it. Compared to the less than half it cost from China even with shipping. Even hunk Lee pack is cheaper than amazon (EU).

    Thanks anyway.

  48. #548
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    Have list some DC5521 waterproof connector in our ebay store!
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

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    Transparent ones look interesting

  50. #550
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    The seller was in Berlin, here it is on Amazon.de mit Kostenlose Lieferung.
    Panasonic NCR18650B_X4 Li-Ion

    How much was it from HunkLee?

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Unfortunately I am in the EU. So that would be amazon.co.uk and its very expensive there http://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-NC...onic+NCR18650B

    That is roughly $50 plus another $15 at least for shipping and that is for just 4pcs. So way over $115 bucks for the 8pcs I need. Definitely not worth it. Compared to the less than half it cost from China even with shipping. Even hunk Lee pack is cheaper than amazon (EU).

    Thanks anyway.

  51. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Transparent ones look interesting
    I am not sure about the maths... How many amps max would those 0.5mm2 wire handle well?

  52. #552
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    cheeper still, http://goo.gl/Y8Mwjn

    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    The seller was in Berlin, here it is on Amazon.de mit Kostenlose Lieferung.
    Panasonic NCR18650B_X4 Li-Ion

    How much was it from HunkLee?

  53. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post

    How much was it from HunkLee?
    Just divide that price by 2 as its for 8 cells (and this is WITH protection and soldering and shipping).
    BTW I got my money back from Banggood today.

  54. #554
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    I am not sure about the maths... How many amps max would those 0.5mm2 wire handle well?
    All I know is that most 0.5mm≤ cable can handle 3A @ 300v

  55. #555
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    I just received my cells ordered from Bang good! I ordered two Panovo cases and 8 cells December 18th. The case took about a week and the cells about 2 and a half weeks. I have a question:

    Should I charge the cells individually to make sure they are balanced? I have protected Panasonic cells. I only have a magicshine and a gemini charger. I would need to buy a new charger to balance the cells.

  56. #556
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    I was just my bad luck then. I am considering ordering from them again. Maybe this time I get lucky.

    We are in the same shoe. Only I got my panovo but not the cells. Anyway I wouldn't bother with balancing them now. Maybe every 3 months if fine (to take out of case and use other charger). You might consider getting and intelli charger 2 or 4 cell. This nitecore one come highly recommended and is cheap too: Nitecore I4 Intellicharger 4 Slot Universal Li ion Ni MH Ni CD Battery Charger | eBay

    And don't forget you can use it ffor your NiMH needs too.
    Just make sure you get V2 (first version had some problems)!

    V2 review

  57. #557
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    Ardufruit also sells waterproof 4 core connectors that would be good for a battery and external switch connection to your housings

    Waterproof Polarized 4-Wire Cable Set ID: 744 - $2.50 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

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  58. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekbob View Post
    I just received my cells ordered from Bang good! I ordered two Panovo cases and 8 cells December 18th. The case took about a week and the cells about 2 and a half weeks. I have a question:

    Should I charge the cells individually to make sure they are balanced? I have protected Panasonic cells. I only have a magicshine and a gemini charger. I would need to buy a new charger to balance the cells.
    Adding to what Oalex100 said; If you have a good 7.4 volt charger you should have no problems as long as the cell are well matched. To be on the safe side it wouldn't hurt to own a good charger that will charge all the cells in parallel ( giving each cell a separate but equal charge ). The Charger Oalex100 recommended looks like a good one. Another similar one is the XTAR XP4 which comes with home and car charger cords.

    Lastly to folks into the race scene they might be interested in a "Fast" 4 cell charger. Those are available too although I don't have a link at the moment.

  59. #559
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    Thanks for the advice guys. I bought a XTAR XP4 for 37 bucks before I saw the link for Nitecore I4. I'm not too bummed because I can use the car charger for camping. I actually need more chargers for nights when I loan out a set of lights.

  60. #560
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    You can read it here and also do some calculation also (wire resistance and voltage drop allowed on the other end).

    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    All I know is that most 0.5mm≤ cable can handle 3A @ 300v

  61. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    You can read it here and also do some calculation also (wire resistance and voltage drop allowed on the other end).
    Thank you so much for that. Very handy.
    I shows that is can handle about 9 Amps max (for the 0.5mm2 wire). I used 1 meter cable and 8 V DC for the calculation. That is enough for 2 x (insert whatever high-amp-1000000lumen-triple-cree-uber-XXXXl-Led-light of you choice).

  62. #562
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    You are welcome oalex100! Just you have to take into account the end of the discharge cycle what is usually about 6V and more amps if the driver doesn't dim the headlight. That is actually my case of powering 2 x 7 XM-L with a total of 8A@8.4V and ending with ~13-14@6V.

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Thank you so much for that. Very handy.
    I shows that is can handle about 9 Amps max (for the 0.5mm2 wire). I used 1 meter cable and 8 V DC for the calculation. That is enough for 2 x (insert whatever high-amp-1000000lumen-triple-cree-uber-XXXXl-Led-light of you choice).

  63. #563
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    I just picked up one of the PANNOVO 18650 battery cases and plan to use it with some unprotected samsung batteries I have laying around as a backup battery pack. I have read through this thread but am still not sure of everything I need to be aware of using these (unprotected) batteries with the case. I noticed Cat makes a case for using non-protected cells here and on using cell holders in general here.

    I understand not to over-discharge them, so will power off when the light starts to dim.

    Also, since there's no short-circuit protection, to be careful entering batteries correctly and if measuring voltage with a multimeter.

    Can unprotecteds be charged while in this pack w/o a PCB using a regular magicshine charger or one of those included with the cheap chinese clones, or do you have to only use an external cell charger? I didn't know if these typical magicshine battery pack chargers would cut off when they are done charging, or include some kind of over-charge protection? What else do I need to be aware of?

    thanks, and sorry if any of this was covered earlier, but wanted to be sure before I go forward!

  64. #564
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    Thesd MS and clone chargers are all supposed to stop charging once cell is at 4.2V. You know most packs that are included with these light have no protection. If the chargers didn't stop charging then everyone of them would have been destroyed on their first charge.
    Also most lights have low voltage cut off too. That in not just go dim, but actually stop at around 6V. So generally speaking, with normal usage one wouldn't over discharge or overcharge.
    Of course malfunctions are another story but that could happen to even protected cells.
    As a matter of fact as I got my money refunded, I ordered again. Only this time unprotected ones. All that I will be relying on is the light built in cut off and the MS charge. That is with never leaving the panovo case.

    And then once every 3 months I will take them out of the panovo pack and balance charge them. With some plugin 2 or 4 cell li-ion charge as discussed 2 post above this one.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  65. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Thesd MS and clone chargers are all supposed to stop charging once cell is at 4.2V. You know most packs that are included with these light have no protection. If the chargers didn't stop charging then everyone of them would have been destroyed on their first charge.
    Also most lights have low voltage cut off too. That in not just go dim, but actually stop at around 6V. So generally speaking, with normal usage one wouldn't over discharge or overcharge.
    Not quite so. MS and clone chargers are not monitoring cell voltage: they're monitoring total battery voltage and stop charging at 8.4 volt (often, a bit higher). So, as the cells are not absolutely identical, it is possible for the 2S battery to have, for example, one cell at 3.9 V and second at 4.5 V: output voltage will remain "normal" 8.4V in that case.

    The same is true for discharge: even if the light head will switch off at 6.0V, the case when one cell is at 3.47 and second is at 2.53 is still possible.

    In other words, measurement of total battery voltage can not be used to prevent overcharge or overdischarge. It's the protection PCB business (either embedded into battery pack, or attached to the each cell)...

  66. #566
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    Yes, obviously I meant to write 8.4V. That is why i said its how its supposed to work. Identical (quality Panasonic) cells should not go out of balance in short periods for no reason. That is having 1 with 3.9 and other with 4.5 is series. That would take time to happen under normal circumstances. Hence what you discuss IS a malfunction. Even the low quality cell packs take a year to really go out of balance that way.
    You do know many of the cheapo lights that have "free" packs included (eg SS X2) have no protection. It is a viable option. But yes it can go wrong just as every thing can.
    My suggestion (which i myself am going to use) i consider is quite reliable.
    Identical quality cells charged with (not the cheapest) MS 8.4 charger. And then balanced out once in 2-3 months (with another charger).
    Don't tell me it's likely to go bad this way. Of course there is always a safer option to every thing.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  67. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Identical (quality Panasonic) cells should not go out of balance in short periods for no reason. That is having 1 with 3.9 and other with 4.5 is series. That would take time to happen under normal circumstances. Hence what you discuss IS a malfunction.
    In factory-assembled battery - yes, but for separate cells with unknown initial state of charge, it's quite possible.

    You do know many of the cheapo lights that have "free" packs included (eg SS X2) have no protection. It is a viable option.
    For several years of budget chinese lights use, I've never seen that. Can you provide any example?

    My suggestion (which i myself am going to use) i consider is quite reliable.
    Identical quality cells charged with (not the cheapest) MS 8.4 charger. And then balanced out once in 2-3 months (with another charger).
    At least, do it other way around: charge cells equally first.

    Don't tell me it's likely to go bad this way.
    Ok, I won't say that.

  68. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    In factory-assembled battery - yes, but for separate cells with unknown initial state of charge, it's quite possible.
    Everything is possible However I do intend to check them all with my MM before putting them in the pack.


    For several years of budget chinese lights use, I've never seen that. Can you provide any example?
    I stand corrected. Excuse my ignorance. I was really sure I got that from somewhere, but it turns out I am wrong and you are right. Will teach me not to write on forums too early in the morning from smart phone and still in bed.
    How the hell do they make that happen. Give you a "working" LED light with all the bell and whistles for $27 and still able able to include a battery pack with 4 cells and even have a PCB circuit soldered in it??? I know the cell are $3 a piece XXXXFIRE but still, they work more or less (1-2 hours). And those selling them still make money. Incredible are, these Chinese magicians.

    At least, do it other way around: charge cells equally first.
    I see that as a good as a very good idea/recommendation. It makes a lot of sense, thank you.

    Ok, I won't say that.
    You know I meant "more likely to work well than to go wrong". That is the odds are not stacked against me. Are they?

  69. #569
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    Guys if you are not using protection, you should at least add some cell monitoring with an alarm like that one - dirty cheap also on ebay:

    On-Board Lipoly Low Voltage Alarm 2s~3s

    There are also some other options, like voltmeter included instead of alarm, 2S-4S option, ...

  70. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Guys if you are not using protection, you should at least add some cell monitoring with an alarm like that one - dirty cheap also on ebay:

    On-Board Lipoly Low Voltage Alarm 2s~3s

    There are also some other options, like voltmeter included instead of alarm, 2S-4S option, ...
    I did buy this for exactly this reason. I tough it would be good not just for "safety" but also to be able to estimate roughly now much time I have left on the packs when taking off for a ride and if I need to take it upstairs to charge before my next trip, when putting the bike away. In my case I extimate I will be needing to charge only every 3rd ride or so, so I need some indication when to charge and not just when the indication on the light goes red.

    Its waterproof too, so very good for bike option. Looks much nicer in real life too so I really recommend it (even if you have protected cells I feel its quite useful, unless you always drain your batteries more that half way on most of your rides). Will install somewhere visible (probably handle bar, next to the main switch).


  71. #571
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    They're totally different things. External voltmeter connected to the battery output is unable to monitor cell's voltages, while device mentioned by MK96 does exactly that job.

  72. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    You know I meant "more likely to work well than to go wrong". That is the odds are not stacked against me. Are they?
    Most likely, it will work Ok, at least initially. But, as I understand, you're planning to put separate cells into holder, correct? Then, even with high-quality and well matched cells, chances are for example, that contaminated or corroded contact surfaces, or weakened contact springs, will cause minor difference in the currents flowing across particular cells - what in turn results in different levels of SOC. Of course, next charge in the multi-bay charger will fix that, but once again: without protection (or monitoring) module, you'll never know for sure, whether you're safe or not...

  73. #573
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    Again that is if it's out of balance no? Else my option would be fine I think.
    On another note, one would need 1 for each P of those no? That is in my case 2S4P would need 3-4 of those connected to monitor voltage on individual cells. Also would need a qay to disconnect when not in use (even if passive draw is minimal). My last problem would be that is starts to screem at 3.3V which is fine for lipo, but I have no problem going 2.8-2.9 with li-ion. So generally the alarm woudl be too early and wouldn't indicate a problem yet fof li-ions.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  74. #574
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    Just single alarm module is enough: it's connected to the each segment of battery (note 4-pin connector). But fitting relatively big PCB could be problematic, as probably there's no free space left inside holder loaded with cells.

    IMHO, for such a setup, separate protected cells are most convenient way to go...

  75. #575
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    I was under the impression that the 4 pin was included due to 3S compatibility. Anyway as I said I consider 3.3 to high for li-ion application.

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    Crazy idea

    Ok guys here is something. I just had a crazy stupid idea from all the discussion that we have been having. I need your input as I am not sure I have the idea right.

    I made a drawing to better explain what I mean (see below). And a quick reminder before I get warned that technical malfunctions are a possibility on planet Earth. I KNOW.
    What I want to find out is if the basic idea is viable giving normal quality and functionality?

    So the idea is a sort of "passive" balancing technique. As I mentioned before, I am going for a 2S4P setup which I made the basic drawing of. Normal charge is using the MS/Gemini 1.8A charger to connect to the mains (+/-) and get charged. What I thought of was. What would happen if I installed switched (A,B,C) to the setup and right before and after each charge I would turn all 3 on for about 30 mins (NOT DURING CHARGE OR USE). Actually I could even leave it ON right after a charge and only switch them back OFF when I go to use them on the bike.
    I hope you can follow me. Considering that the cells are normal (As in no major defects) wouldn't this be a good way of keeping them balanced (practically all the time)?
    Say one of the cell slightly goes out of balance during a use, then when I turn on the switched then the parallel connection should rebalanced all of them right?

    Examples:
    A. if Cell 1,2,3 (first row) are at 3.5V after a use and cell 4 is at 3.2V. Then turning on the switch after a short time (without external charger) they would equilibrate-out themselves. So 1,2,3,4 would all be ~3.4V.
    B. if after a charge cycle 1,2,4 are at 4.2 (so charger stops charging) and cell No.3 is only at 3.9V. Then turning on the switches and leaving if st for a while would make them all level-out (maybe this is a better word) around ~4.1V.

    I even consider the examples extreme, as if its done most of the time, then such differences can not happen between a such a short while. I used those numbers to simple demonstrate my meaning. I guess more real life would be in the 0.001V range of difference and only builds up over a long period to higher figurs. However with this method it wont even have a chance.

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    Important points:
    1. If this is a viable option, then I will not need a second (balance) charger.
    2. Obviously if 1 cell becomes faulty then bad things can still happen. I would consider it good practice to check all cells individual Voltage with multimeter at least once a month. Also the fix (single) voltmeter on the bike would give me some indication if there is critical failure as I would probably notice a sudden ~1/8th difference to what I am used to. The emphasis is on "sudden" as I know ambient temperature does account for variation in capacity.
    3. MOST IMPORTANTLY: I need to devise a method to guaranty that I never mistakenly leave any of the switches turned on when I connect it to the charger.
    4. Don't worry about the Panovo case right now.

    I feel no. 3 is the critical issue. But I already have an easy 100% fix in mind.

    So, what do you think? Suddenly at the end now I am having second though, like my basic electronics knowledge has failed me and the whole idea is a huge short circuit (plus explosion) waiting to happen. Do I need a second set of switches to disconnect the upper and lower row when doing this passive balancing? I know parallel cells will balance themselves out without a problem. Its just the simultaneous serial and parallel variation that I am unsure of.
    Last edited by oalex100; 01-08-2014 at 01:39 PM.

  77. #577
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    Basically the wiring should be designed some other way, see the link and do your calculations there: R/C Calculations. There should be no switches since the empty cell doesn't make the circuit/pack to fail.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    3. MOST IMPORTANTLY: I need to devise a method to guaranty that I never mistakenly leave any of the switches turned on when I connect it to the charger.
    Nothing bad will happen by leaving all of the switches turned on - that is the way a good battery is wired up as per the post below
    Quote Originally Posted by MtbMacgyver View Post
    This is actually the best way to wire to wire a 2s2p pack. If you don't connect the parallel cells together, then they won't stay in balance.


    And like this if you want a balance connector
    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    So, what do you think? Suddenly at the end now I am having second though, like my basic electronics knowledge has failed me and the whole idea is a huge short circuit (plus explosion) waiting to happen. Do I need a second set of switches to disconnect the upper and lower row when doing this passive balancing? I know parallel cells will balance themselves out without a problem. Its just the simultaneous serial and parallel variation that I am unsure of.
    You are close, oh so close. You are correct when you say that parallel cells will balance themselves without a problem. Where you have gone wrong is misunderstanding which cells can go "out of balance" - the problem is with cells wired in series. So wired correctly (ie switches all closed) the top 4 cells are in parallel & will all have the same voltage in a range of say 3-4.2V. Similarly the bottom 4 cells are in parallel & will all have the same voltage in a range of say 3-4.2V. The problem is that the top cells may not have the same voltage as the bottom cells.

    To give you a wildly exaggerated example just say the top cells were 0.5V lower than the bottom cells. You attach a charger to the pack - the top cells are now 3.95V while the bottom cells are 4.45V. The pack voltage is fine - 8.4V, but the bottom cells are dangerously overcharged. Same problem on discharge - pack if fine at 6V, the bottom cells are 3.25V but the top cells will be 2.75V (dangerously discharged)

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    MK and Bruce thank you very much. I guess I had it all mixed up with led wiring mode.
    So the switches will be replaces with fix connection.

    Bruce in this case, you are saying that its not single cells that go out of balance but the rows of cells, which is still a problem either way.

    Would another "passive" balancing methodology possible be the following:

    Cells in upper row: A1 A2 A3 A4.
    Cells in lower row: B1 B2 B3 B4.

    How about if every 2 weeks I swapped 2 cells from row a to row b and vice verse. So it would look like this:

    Cells in upper row: A1 B2 A3 B4.
    Cells in lower row: B1 A2 B3 A4.

    Was lazy to draw another diagram, but am sure you get what I mean.
    What do you think? Am I correct in assuming that this way the rows should also stay balanced more or less. That is till I have a serious cell malfunction or a fatal bike accident or an alcohol overdose.<--- meant as a stupid pun for the worry warts
    Last edited by oalex100; 01-09-2014 at 03:07 AM.

  80. #580
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    O-100, I think you may be giving more attention to the issue of balancing than is necessary. Adding to what find_bruce said ( which looks correct ) ...

    Usually when batteries are built the cells used are tested and matched for compatibility ( before being used in the build ). The more cells used the more important the issue. In electronics rarely are all things equal. That is why it is so important to have the cells matched as close as possible before you build the battery.

    If you really want to have all cells that are all completely charged at their maximum peak voltage you have to charge them ALL in parallel at 4.2 volts. The kicker is even if you do that, different cells can still discharge at different rates ( depending on the differences of internal resistance within each cell ). As long as there are no big differences in voltage/discharge rates between the cells you are going to be fine. The only way to know that though would be to take all the cells out and measure their voltage individually once you have discharged the battery. When or if you find a bad cell you replace it. ( or replace the whole battery if it has neared the usual life expectancy ). Hope this helps.

  81. #581
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    If you really want to have all cells that are all completely charged at their maximum peak voltage you have to charge them ALL in parallel at 4.2 volts.
    It would be better to charge them in series (hobby charger) or each cell independently (nitecore i4). Parallel charging could not charge each of the cells equally due to various internal resistance as you mentioned it correctly.

    @oalex100 you just need the wiring either from the find_bruce's post or the link I wrote, nothing more to work out ;-)

  82. #582
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    what to do with a home-made 2s[xp] pack is: test test and test again, back and forth, forever

    run it, use it. and all the time, get out the voltmeter and check each cell separate from the rest, and watch what is going on with them over time, until you have it fully understood.


    takes all the guesswork out when you put in the extra testing time after each
    use as well as each charge

    if i were to build my own packs I would have a test-pack/bench with a multiple switch that I could flip to a) disco all cells, and b) switch-connect them each to an individual bank of voltmeters. bang, all volts read, cell discharge/charge state known...no guesswork. it would also let me know if my cell supply is good or tainted. cheap voltmeters are a few bucks a dozen

  83. #583
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    It would be better to charge them in series (hobby charger) or each cell independently (nitecore i4). Parallel charging could not charge each of the cells equally due to various internal resistance as you mentioned it correctly.

    @oalex100 you just need the wiring either from the find_bruce's post or the link I wrote, nothing more to work out ;-)
    Yes true but there there are ways around it. When charging in parallel when the battery reaches it's first peak charge it will stop charging. If there is a cell that is not up to par it may not reach full peak charge. After the cells sit a while they will self balance if they are still in parallel. This will lower the voltage. Then you charge again. You can keep topping off the charge until all cells are close to peak charge. Obviously not the best way to go about it but can be done. As you said the best way is to charge each cell independently via a cell charger with a separate charge circuit. The good cell chargers do that. ( like the i4 ).

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    Panasonic

    Just a heads up for anyone looking to purchase currently:

    Panasonic cell are still on sale at Banggood. That is the below coupons still work. You can use that as many times as you like. My shipment got lost (not their fault obviously but post office). They refunded me and I purchased from them again. Right for the past 2 weeks I haven't found any cheaper source than them. Obviously this are 2pcs sets.

    Panasonic Unprotected 3400mAh flat top still $14.95 with code bgf113
    Panasonic Protected 3400mAh button top still $16.50 with code bgf120

    Also Wallbuys ha a promotion for 3400 unprotected button top but its VERY limited stock. $15

  85. #585
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    I just checked over on the Fasttech site and looks like they have restocked on their ( single 18650 cell ) batteries. Competitive pricing... Shipping might still be a problem though.

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    I don't know if this is the right place but I'm looking for a 18650 6 cell nylon pouch with 2x straps, I have been looking everywhere but can find one, also looking for 2 cell 18650. if anyone can point us in the right direction that would be great

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    Hey guys,,, I'm hoping someone could give me some feedback on Open Light Systems. Four days ago I sent them a couple of emails inquiring on the battery packs for Lupine and haven't heard back. Are they a really busy company and I should be more patient, or is there anything else going on with them that should end my inquiries? Thanx in advance!! Cheers!!

  88. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trd620 View Post
    I don't know if this is the right place but I'm looking for a 18650 6 cell nylon pouch with 2x straps, I have been looking everywhere but can find one, also looking for 2 cell 18650. if anyone can point us in the right direction that would be great
    Somewhere in this thread someone posted an Amazon link to a cheap 6-cell battery. D/X also sells these but shipping batteries from China is sketchy these days. Look at it this way, if you buy the bag they give you the battery for free. ....or, email them and they will give you the SKU# for ordering just the bag.

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    UltraFire battery is the worst batteries I have seem, the fake Capacity and bad quality ,if u do not believe ,u can search them in BLF , there are many members test it

  90. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by Relic38 View Post
    UltraFire battery is the worst batteries I have seem, the fake Capacity and bad quality ,if u do not believe ,u can search them in BLF , there are many members test it
    Yes, I know it's a cheap crappy battery. I would expect actual capacity to be somewhere around 4500-5000mAh. For the money (~$18 ) not a bad deal. FWIW I was only linking the battery because it came with a bag that fit the bill.

    I'll also add that years ago i used to use single cell Ultrafire Red cells ( 2600mah ) for my torches. At the time those rated *decently over on CPF. ( *not quite 2600mAh but near enough to satisfy most people ) For the money they weren't a bad deal at the time. Of course the better cells are now available at better prices. Still, I figure it shouldn't be too hard for someone to make a cheap "real" 2200mAh cell. I've noticed that D/X in the last year has tried to improve on their batteries. The people who bought the cheap Amazon 6-cell reported good things so I suppose they were satisfied with what they bought. Personally If it were me I would want to get at least 6000mAh out of a 6-cell battery. Then again if you're only spending $18 it is hard to be picky.

  91. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by Relic38 View Post
    UltraFire battery is the worst batteries I have seem, the fake Capacity and bad quality ,if u do not believe ,u can search them in BLF , there are many members test it
    real ultrafires are fine, you just need to know exactly who is selling the cells, which is hard to do...

    I had a box of 50 ultrafire 2400 unprotected and they are all identical and 100% perfect in every way. each cathode cap is laser engraved and was in it's own mylar bag. all of them ran on a load tester within 6% of each other

    ultrafire is the #1 most counterfeit cell and TONS of fakes are everywhere

  92. #592
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    Mine lifepo4 cells from D/X arrived OK last week shipped with tracking RQ......SG. So D/X should be fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    D/X also sells these but shipping batteries from China is sketchy these days.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Mine lifepo4 cells from D/X arrived OK last week shipped with tracking RQ......SG. So D/X should be fine.
    SG means Singapore post ,but as I know this one can not ship pure battery, are u sure your tracking number is this one ????

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    Till now we can ship pure battery.

    Quote Originally Posted by Relic38 View Post
    SG means Singapore post ,but as I know this one can not ship pure battery, are u sure your tracking number is this one ????
    As safety reasons, pure battery especially for Lithium battery don't shipped smoothly. For USA buyer, we may don't ship by Epacket (By China post office and USPS) as too much parcel returned by airport. We have special way to ship them till now. We packed very well and reliable as we know short-circuit is very dangerous in airplane. We also hope every buyer suggest your seller to pack battery well, and use good quality not cheaper battery products. Some poor quality battery caused burning in airplane last year.
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

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    I shipped some of my GoPro adapters to England (listed as bicycle parts on the Customs form) yesterday and was asked at the USPS office if the package contained lithium batteries in any form. Seems every shipper is cautious about lithium batteries at this time.

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    Yes, SG is Singpost and with this tracking number came my order with 4 lifepo cells It is probably a hit or miss but this was a hit for me

    Quote Originally Posted by Relic38 View Post
    SG means Singapore post ,but as I know this one can not ship pure battery, are u sure your tracking number is this one ????

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    Can the battery packs be shipped or will those be stopped as well.

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    Hard to say, I think they could be shipped via SG Post also but probably not from everyone.

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    but as I know wallbuys use Sweden post to ship pure battery ,and they claim it is 100% safe.
    what is wrong ???

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    A little off topic, but still about batteries
    Well I am in a sort of spot and would like some advice from people with similar experience.
    As you know I have ordered Panasonic 18650 from Banggood. This item got lost. Made purchase Nov 30th and tracking was showing "item accepted in Singapore" even on 16th January. Banggood tought it was obviously lost and refunded me promptly. Even tough I was pissed, I decided to give them another chance. A bought the same goods from them and hope that this time it will arrive.
    Now, 17th Jan., what do I see on tracking report (which I check everyday, just for the hell of it). The item (the lost one) has arrived in my country!. Maybe it came by ship even though I payed for airmail.
    So now I have been refunded and my new order is on the way and this one seems to be here (too). I do not need them both. Shipping back would definitely cost me a lot. Half the price of the goods, so I don't think that Banggood would really want to pay for the return shipping.
    I am not a cheat (so don't intend to steal from them) and they were nice to refund me promptly (unlike Dealextreme which sent me a defective item and has had me begging for someone to look at my ticket for many days now, told me a lies and only decided to comment on the ticket after I opened paypal dispute. All this for a $2 item; anyway buyers beware, you can see DX all the complaints on DX forums). Anyway back to the point. What should I do? I dont need the extra cells, but I can't wont pay for return shipping. We get packages everyday so I can't say I wont accept it. Postal service here doesn't let you look at item before your sign for it. Also I don't know what happens if I don't sigh for it. Then they still make claim with paypal.
    Any of you had any similar experience?
    My best idea so far has been to try and sell them (if indeed I do get them) and then send the money to Banggood. However I am not a trader so am not sure if I can sell it. Any, all advice is welcome.

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