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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Also a question in my mind is (might be minimally better for balancing). To have 2 2S2P separately and then connect them in parallel with Y cable, but separate them when charging. Feel free to let me know if the idea is nonsense
    This is a good and a proven method - here's a typical example (not quite the capacity you need but should give you an idea). Most balancing chargers have balancing current of 200mA-300mA, so balancing a 4P pack will take ages.

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Fixed now. :-)
    Ok.

    As for batteries - both are IMHO good ones, but giving not-so-big price difference, I'd personally prefer the latter.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    Ok.

    As for batteries - both are IMHO good ones, but giving not-so-big price difference, I'd personally prefer the latter.
    The later cost 1/3 more. Isn't that big? I mean am I really going to be 1/3 better off asper real life use. Will they run close to that longer?

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    The later cost 1/3 more. Isn't that big?
    In pure numbers - yes. But for less than $20 difference, you'll get the maximum currently available capacity: if you really need that, twenty bucks isn't looking so big...

    I mean am I really going to be 1/3 better off asper real life use. Will they run close to that longer?
    For cost-capacity ratio, Sanyo is a winner here, of course. Panasonics won't run 1/3 longer.

  5. #405
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    oalex100 - I guess I'm too old to buy Sanyo - too much negative experience in the long run. I own several Lenovo laptops (wife (Frankenpad), dad (Frankenpad), daughter (T60) and myself Frankenpad and x61 T9300). Lenovo used sony, sanyo and panasonic in their batteries. All sanyo and sony batteries are long dead. Panasonic ones are still going strong even when the cycle count is nearing 1,000 and the age is 3 and 4 years.

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaVolt View Post
    Lenovo used sony, sanyo and panasonic in their batteries. All sanyo and sony batteries are long dead. Panasonic ones are still going strong even when the cycle count is nearing 1,000 and the age is 3 and 4 years.
    That's correct (the same experience here), but I believe it's some problems in battery management controllers implemented. In other places I've seen, Sanyo are performing well and long. On the other hand, when their service life is ended, they're fading quite quickly, not steadily.

    As for long-term durability, my personal favorite is Samsung: never seen "sudden failure" on them...

  7. #407
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    Yeah, I guess I should look for Samsung options too. I didn't see any on Lee-s site.
    Long lasting is a valid argument. +10% total capacity is not.
    So Megavolt almost had me convinced now, but if you are sure Archie then I am back again to square one.
    Where can I get reliable Samsung packs?
    P.S: I live in Hungary 20 bucks IS a big deal, unfortunately.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Where can I get reliable Samsung packs?
    For example, here:
    Enerpower Samsung ICR18650 26F 2S2P 7 2V Mit Kabeln Open End PCB 2A 38 48Wh | eBay

    Please note: if you're looking for the pack to be used with existing 8.4V charger, do not buy batteries made of Samsung cells with capacity greater than 2600 mAh. ICR18650-26 is the last 4.2V model in their range.

    P.S: I live in Hungary 20 bucks IS a big deal, unfortunately.
    Ok, it makes sense.

  9. #409
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    But 2 of this cost more than the Panasonic which has greater capacity generally and overall (at least the 2S4P that I linked).
    About charger, I don't have any yet, will other what ever you guys recommend for me.

    Did you link German for any particular reason? I mean are you German or live there? If yes, then I would PM you about something else.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Did you link German for any particular reason?
    No.

    I mean are you German
    No.

    or live there?
    No.


  11. #411
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    oalex100- the two packs you were picking from were initially Sanyo 8 cells 10400mAh and Panasonic 8 cells 13600mAh, and you were not sure you wanted to justify the $20 difference.

    Why don't you then pick a Panasonic 6 cells 10200mAh battery then? It's only $5 more expensive but almost 100g lighter compared to the Sanyo 8 cells pack.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaVolt View Post
    oalex100- the two packs you were picking from were initially Sanyo 8 cells 10400mAh and Panasonic 8 cells 13600mAh, and you were not sure you wanted to justify the $20 difference.

    Why don't you then pick a Panasonic 6 cells 10200mAh battery then? It's only $5 more expensive but almost 100g lighter compared to the Sanyo 8 cells pack.
    On paper that is a very convincing point. Thank you.
    This way I don't have to worry about the questionably Sanyo quality mentioned.
    My only concern is Can the Pana really produce the same amount of juice as the Sanyo with 2 less cells. Isnt this something to do with discharge to 2.5v vs 3v. If the light cutoff at 3v then I wont gain anything.
    Also if the pana mAh is higher do I need a different charger all will the same one charge the two to different levels?
    Appreciate you answers in advance.

  13. #413
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    Guys, there is no way to properly balance charge parallel cells. You need to split the pack to do that properly. It doesn't matter if it is 2P or 4P pack, the balancer will always see the highest voltage of the cell - the better one from the parallel connection.

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Guys, there is no way to properly balance charge parallel cells. You need to split the pack to do that properly. It doesn't matter if it is 2P or 4P pack, the balancer will always see the highest voltage of the cell - the better one from the parallel connection.
    ...what?

  15. #415
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    Just an update on this battery that I tested back in post #45 of this thread
    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020905

    It now runs my 3x clone about 1 1/2 hours.....so I've lost about a 1/2 hour of run time.

    In the meantime.....the Xeccon / MTBRevolution 6600 hardcase battery is going strong and hasn't lost any run time.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Guys, there is no way to properly balance charge parallel cells. You need to split the pack to do that properly. It doesn't matter if it is 2P or 4P pack, the balancer will always see the highest voltage of the cell - the better one from the parallel connection.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    ...what?
    Sorry MK96 but you have the wrong end of the stick.

    It is not actually possible for parallel cells to become unbalanced - once you wire them together, they will maintain exactly the same voltage, at all times.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    Also if the pana mAh is higher do I need a different charger all will the same one charge the two to different levels?
    Panasonic uses "classic" 4.20V voltage for full charge: this is one of main reasons why it's so popular as a replacement cell for other equipment. You don't need to use special charger: existing one will do fine.

  18. #418
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    Technically if one cell from the parallel connection fails, they will maintain voltage, but not the capacity.

  19. #419
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    MK96, you're perfectly right but this is not about 'life sucks and then you die', this is about balancing. If one member (no matter what capacity, no matter how many parallel cells) of the 2S battery goes out, the battery is going down. Sometimes life does suck and this can happen to any battery, Panasonic or Sanyo. That is why buyng a 2S(no-matter-how-many-P) battery that does not allow balancing is only a great idea when of one wants to prove life does suck.

  20. #420
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    Thanks MegaVolt, probably I explained it the wrong way. If 1S from the 2S (no matter how many P's) cells die, battery has half of the former voltage and PCB shuts it down. If one cell from the 1S of the 2S battery dies, it will maintain the voltage, but the capacity will be lower - PCB kicks in earlier because the 1S with one failed cell won't provide the needed current for as long as the second - the good - 1S ... That was my idea at the beginning. So wiring cells parallel brings this cons. Cells can go down anytime.

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  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    Archie-

    Thanks for the testing. I have been very impressed with my pack. I have this one coming.

    Panasonic NCR18650B 7 4V 10200mAh Protected Li ion Battery for Bike Light 2S3PM | eBay
    I have to ask.
    Although these may be good batteries....at these prices, why would you buy these over one from Xeccon?Mtbrevolution or Action LED that come with a case and customer support?

  22. #422
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    MK96 - yes any cell can fail, but that would be an accident rather than a system problem.
    Yes accidents happen. But not every time - that's why so many of us are still alive.

    An unbalanced battery, however, WILL go bad (usually within a year), and this is something to consider no matter what cell quality.

    There is no such thing as all cells in a battery with exactly the same internal resistance that will stay the same for good.

    Any battery made of cells in series will go out of balance.

    That is why it is very important to know if the PCB that comes with a battery supports balancing or not, and if a battery has balancing wires or not.

    This is a simple fact that works no matter how good your cells/soldering is, etc. With no way to balance a pack, the cells and soldering quality is just the packaging that sells and not the real deal because few of these unbalanced batteries are going to last more than a year of active use.

    Rather than buying an xS battery that does not allow balancing one should consider getting two xP packs, combine them for their 2S purposes and charge separately as two 1S packs.

    I did provide a link of how it is done in the RC world where battery life is short and you don't have to wait for a year to see that your money went down the drain because you cannot balance your packs. Here it is again: Air Craft - Electric R/C Aircraft World Shop


    The link is only for illustration purposes - I am not associated with that online store, and I intentionally picked a link to the product that is of no interest to anyone here because it's heavy and small capacity.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    I have to ask.
    Although these may be good batteries....at these prices, why would you buy these over one from Xeccon?Mtbrevolution or Action LED that come with a case and customer support?
    Can you point to any examples? I've briefly surfed ActionLED site: they don't have anything even close to the abovementioned 10200 mAh battery. The biggest I can find there, is MagicShine 6600 mAh - the cost is $72.95 + $18.60 shipping to Estonia. Meanwhile, 10200 mAh from A-OK is $68.00 + $2.95 shipping...

  24. #424
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    I had to cut the test short but got 4.5 hours using my Gemini Olympia on high with the 10200mah. Damn good batteries!


  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    Meanwhile, 10200 mAh from A-OK is $68.00 + $2.95 shipping...
    Is that 10200mAh battery really 10200? How long will it actually power a multi LED light?

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaVolt View Post
    Any battery made of cells in series will go out of balance.
    Yes, definitely. But either PCB has balancing capablities or you can add a balancing connector to the pack - but in these packs it is a difficult task (take the heatshrink tube off, ...) Actually that was the main reason I went to Li-po & custom Li-ion packs from 26650 cells.

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Is that 10200mAh battery really 10200?
    I think, yes.

    How long will it actually power a multi LED light?
    About twice as long, if compared to 5100 battery.

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaVolt View Post
    An unbalanced battery, however, WILL go bad (usually within a year), and this is something to consider no matter what cell quality.
    According to my personal experience, the problem of 2s battery coming out of balance is a bit exaggerated. Typical MS battery starts to develop it after two- to three years of use - and often, its service life at that time is near the end anyway.

    While all of my self-made batteries are equipped with balance leads, two of MS ones (currently in heavy use) lack it, as I've decided to add them later, when/if capacity drop will indicate that balancing is required. Still waiting...

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    I think, yes.


    About twice as long, if compared to 5100 battery.
    I read that as: you don't know.

  30. #430
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    the mayor - surely you don't mean to say that Archie doesn't know if a double capacity battery will power a light twice as long.

    Are you doubting the capacity of NCR18650B stated by Panasonic or do you mean that these batteries are fakes?

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaVolt View Post
    the mayor - surely you don't mean to say that Archie doesn't know if a double capacity battery will power a light twice as long.

    Are you doubting the capacity of NCR18650B stated by Panasonic or do you mean that these batteries are fakes?
    Unless Archie has the battery and has tested it.....he is guessing.
    If you believe everything that every company prints about their product....good luck with that.

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Is that 10200mAh battery really 10200? How long will it actually power a multi LED light?
    No way to know unless one has the info on how much power the particular "multi LED light" draws.

  33. #433
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    I wonder, what kind of answer one may expect asking questions like "actual runtime of multi-LED light"...

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Unless Archie has the battery and has tested it.....he is guessing.
    If you believe everything that every company prints about their product....good luck with that.
    Mayor you gave me a good chuckle but I agree. If you buy a battery to prolong your run time at some point you will have to test the endurance of the battery unless you have the equipment designed to do a mAh discharge test.

    Here's the thing; Who really wants to do a run time test ( on high ) with a 10200mAh battery? ...not me said the flea.

    Depending on what lamp you use it could take a REALLY LONG TIME.
    For something like a SSX2 clone on high perhaps 5-6 hrs (?) Like was said, no way to know for sure unless you do the test.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    I wonder, what kind of answer one may expect asking questions like "actual runtime of multi-LED light"...
    There is no answer.
    There is also no answer to the real capacity of a battery until you test it.
    But we both know that.

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Mayor you gave me a good chuckle but I agree. If you buy a battery to prolong your run time at some point you will have to test the endurance of the battery unless you have the equipment designed to do a mAh discharge test.

    Here's the thing; Who really wants to do a run time test ( on high ) with a 10200mAh battery? ...not me said the flea.

    Depending on what lamp you use it could take a REALLY LONG TIME.
    For something like a SSX2 clone on high perhaps 5-6 hrs (?) Like was said, no way to know for sure unless you do the test.
    Last winter I got a single LED lamp from Hi-Max. I put it on the porch with a fan, had a few Manhattens and fell asleep. It was still running 6+ hours later.
    I tested the same battery with the SSx2 I got and it was still running at 3 1/2 hours.
    Done.

  37. #437
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    MegaVolt: Can you point to any retail bike light battery pack that has a protection PCB with the balance function built in? In the year and a half I've been reading here, I have not seen even one mentioned.

    Casting about on the net, I've only come across three PCBs with a post charging balance function. They call it "Equilibrium" rather than balancing. [PCM-L02S20-265, PCM-L02S10-760(2S), and PCM-L02S06-336]. Technically I know nothing about this stuff, so maybe one of the battery experts can tell us if any of those are appropriate, or suggest other ones.

    The sub $100 hobby chargers seem to handle the balance function after charging. The +$100 models have balance starting at various states during the charge cycle. I doubt many on here (especially those discussing relatively inexpensive packs) are willing to buy that level of charger. It seems like only the serious RC guys, who also bike are making that kind of investment.

    I've also seen this inexpensive cell checker & balancer over on on HobbyKing and wondered if it would be worth modding into a pack (or just adding a JST connector so it could be used occasionally.) It would seem to be an economical approach for those that want to use the standard "wall wart" MS style bike light chargers.

    The first mention of Hunk Lee / A-OK battery was in post 248 on this thread. The battery linked to in that post had a JST connector. People asked what the extra wires were for. As per post 380, Mr. Lee seems to be quite responsive and will add or remove connectors on request.

    Your link to the packs on Aircraft World may have made immediate sense to an RC guy, but it was just two packs and some wires to me. Your concept of charging parallel packs independently, and connecting them in series for use may be valid. I think it is beyond most of the guys on here who just want plug their pack into a single charger, then take them off the charger and ride.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian_C View Post
    MegaVolt: Can you point to any retail bike light battery pack that has a protection PCB with the balance function built in? In the year and a half I've been reading here, I have not seen even one mentioned.
    AFAIK, Lupine batteries (at least, SmartCore series) have that circuitry. Probably, other high-end brands also implement that, but for price typically asked for such equipment, I see no point ordering that.

    The sub $100 hobby chargers seem to handle the balance function after charging. The +$100 models have balance starting at various states during the charge cycle.
    Why do you think so? Even cheap Turnigy charger does that during charge...

    I doubt many on here (especially those discussing relatively inexpensive packs) are willing to buy that level of charger. It seems like only the serious RC guys, who also bike are making that kind of investment.
    Balancing chargers are dirt-cheap nowadays. Just for example:
    B3AC 7.4V/11.1V 2S/3S LiPo Balance Charger - Black (2-Flat-Pin Plug) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

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    Ian_C - I am new to the world of 2S. Most of my LED life was happily spent in the realm of P7 and MC-E - I made two 8P batteries and used a simple DX charger for them.

    I bought two EL34's DIY kits and I still use this light set as a backup light because it has the best beam I've seen for forest use - 'no bright spot side spill' eye torture - just a cone of light directed where I need it.

    At some point I realized that my preparations for a two days' ride start two days in advance even though my extrawheel is fully packed: it simply took more than 24 hours to charge a pack with an 1A charger. I then ordered a 4-channel Turnigy charger and three 6,000+mAh lipos that had no problem with 5 amps charging current. (I usually take three batteries with me (one for myself, one for my wife, plus a backup battery)).

    By the time I noticed )) the whole new class of 7.2 V bike lights I also started seeing complaints of these batteries going out of order (moste often because they would go out of balance) within a season of active use. This was discussed on all bike forums and was hard to miss.

    When it was my turn to go from 3.6V to 7.2V, I took two lipos and put them in series.

    I have seen Panasonic cells keep 80% of their nominal capacity for 4+ years of regular use in old Lenovo batteries and I am not going to spend $200 on, say, Mr. Lee's batteries with top notch cells that will fail on me in two years because of a design flaw.




    One very important thing to consider is balancing current. Most of smart RC chargers (including those up to $100) will have 200mA or 300mA balancing current. That basically means that your 5,000+ mAh 2S battery take another 5 hours to balance once it's finally charged.

    So having two separate batteries to charge separately and the right 'wire harness' is a much much better idea to me than dealing with a balance wire/balancing PCB when it comes to todays' capacities of 5,000+ mAh. I also think that getting a high capacity 2S battery made of good and expensive cells that could work for years but will go out of balance in the first (or second) summer is a real shame and an offense to the manufacturer of those cells (be it Sony, Samsung, Sanyo or Panasonic, whatever... tastes do differ).

  41. #441
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    Guys are there still issues with shipping batteries from China by airmail?

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    I believe yes. I asked for quote for express shipping from hunk lee and eas told its not possible. Also the place where I ordered my lights told me he could only ship with no battery.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Guys are there still issues with shipping batteries from China by airmail?
    Yes but it depends on the vendor doing the shipping as to how they are dealing with it. Some say that they just can't ship batteries... period. With others they will ship to another location first and then ship by air. At best it is a hit or miss roll of the dice if you are buying the stuff from China. I'm still waiting on my Hunklee battery. Should be here sometime this week.

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    ...I'm still waiting on my Hunklee battery. Should be here sometime this week.
    ! ( Woo-Hoo! ) My Hunk Lee 2-cell ( 3400mAh Panasonic ) battery is here! Got it Thursday. I have it on the charger as I write. I should note here that the shrink wrap on the cells has open areas so if you plan to use it without any kind of bag it would be a good idea to add some more shrink wrap, duck tape, plastic dip...or whatever. I think he probably does this so the buyers can see the cells and verify that they are indeed Panasonics.

    FYI....took 16 days to get to me. That's the same amount of time a D/X shipment takes to get to me so no surprises there.

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    shrink wrap on the cells has open areas so if you plan to use it without any kind of bag it would be a good idea to add some more shrink wrap, duck tape, plastic dip...or whatever.
    Here's my duct tape job from yesterday.



    Leonard - All things Xeccon + Beyond
    mtbRevolution.com

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    Wow that seems fast. Good for you!
    I ordered a bike mirror 30 days ago and the tracking only now says that it left Singapore a few days ago.
    Especially with the Xmas traffic. I don't have much hope that my stuff will arrive this year.
    The light is here (Jexree Owl), 2 of them actually, but no way to use them till I get the other stuff. To make things worst, I ordered every thing from a different supplier (no one had all 4 part that I needed).
    For battery I got from Banggood.com that someone else linked earlier (with the coupon). Much cheaper than Hunk Lee. 8-cell (3400mAh Panasonic) Protected Ended up costing $50. Hunk Lee has basically the same pack 13600mAh for $86 (not the protected cell, but a soldered protection circuit).
    As this is a high capacity pack, I didn't want the cheapest chines charger (most are just 1A), but rather got a Magicshine charger clone that does 1.8A ( MagicShine MJ 6012 Replacement Charger for MagicShine LED Bike Headlight | eBay ).
    Considering the long run. I had a wild idea. I used to RC way back and remember how important balancing was. Batteries didn't last long and every extra MINUTE that you could fly your plain mattered (I had a jet for example that was 8 minutes max with one charger, but it did go up to 100mph). Anyway, back to the topic. With my limited knowledge of electronics, especially batteries. I considered that balancing would indeed be useful for bike light packs, however certainly not as much as in the RC LiPos case.
    Charging this 13.6A cell would take forever (see MegaVolts explanation a few post above this post), so would be a drag to do after every ride. However I think I would get more or less the same result if I did it once a month or once every 2 months. With that I would still get the same end results. That is a relatively balances pack at any given time. But without the downside of 24+ hours charging after each ride.
    I decided not to solder the cells together, but rather get 2 of the waterproof 4-cell container mentioned somewhere in the tread ( Water Resistant 4 x 18650 Battery Pack Case House Cover for Bike Lamp | eBay ). Yes I know that protected cell is a tight fit, but it can fit.
    This way I don't need to solder balance wires, I don't need extra shrink warping and waterproofing.
    I just use the box as normal (light and charge) and if I want to balance, then I open it and take out the cells.
    Also it makes the system completely reconfigurable. I can replace the cells individual if any/all go bad.
    All I need to buy now is a reliable but cheap balancer (maybe the B6).

    TO sum it up, I believe this a way better route that Hunk Lee. To make a direct comparison:

    • a.) Hunk Lee 13600mAh Panasonic 8-cell pack, with protection circuit and simple shrink wrap-----------$86


    • b.) 13600mAh Panasonic 8-cell, with individual cell protection and with 2x 4-cell solid waterproof casing with Velcro bike attachment included---------------$50+ (2x $13) = $76



    The later not only being cheaper, but has a case and bag that is waterproof and is reusable/reconfigurable (with new cells), practical forever. I almost went the Mr. Lee route, but Dir brought my attention to the fact that that his (Hunk Lee) options are not as cheap as they are made out to be.

    P.S: I want to say thank you to all you guys. You were all great help!
    Last edited by oalex100; 12-06-2013 at 11:20 AM.

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    ... I gave up having 100's of various chargers about 2 years ago. I bought LogicRC Emperor - was quite expensive utimate and universal solution, but charges everything and can be connected to a PC to put out some data from dis/charge process. It handles ni-cd/mh, li-ion/pol/fepo4 stuff, it has a 20 programs memory, 2 channels, etc. It can be powered from a spare/old laptop dc power source up to 600W DC power source in case you like to charge your lipo quickly just some minutes before ride. And I do balance charge everytime I charge li-xxx cells. I gave cheap chargers that came together with chinese lights to my friends as a spare.

    @oalex100 this pannovo DX case is a nice 18650 cell solution for everyone, so you took a good choice. There are tons of balancers at hobbyking.com - choose one you like.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    ... I gave up having 100's of various chargers about 2 years ago. I bought LogicRC Emperor - was quite expensive utimate and universal solution, but charges everything and can be connected to a PC to put out some data from dis/charge process. It handles ni-cd/mh, li-ion/pol/fepo4 stuff, it has a 20 programs memory, 2 channels, etc. It can be powered from a spare/old laptop dc power source up to 600W DC power source in case you like to charge your lipo quickly just some minutes before ride. And I do balance charge everytime I charge li-xxx cells. I gave cheap chargers that came together with chinese lights to my friends as a spare.

    @oalex100 this pannovo DX case is a nice 18650 cell solution for everyone, so you took a good choice. There are tons of balancers at hobbyking.com - choose one you like.
    I have one of those nice hobby chargers from all-battery that I use and has the port for balancing packs through a separate connector but none of my litho packs have that extra port. How are you balance charging your packs with your charger?

    Do you really need to balance every time or can you do it every 4-5 charges?

  49. #449
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    I can take my 26650 cells out of the pack, put it in 1P config and balance charge them using jst-xh connector and charge leads. My li-po battery has balance connectors, so there is no problem. Even if the pack doesn't have balance connector, you can add one of your choice. Of course you need access to either the cells and nickel strips welded to the cells or to the PCB and solder the connector to PCB.

    I use to balance every charging, but even every 4-5 is OK. Balance charging should take care of that all cells are worn equally.

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    ... I gave up having 100's of various chargers about 2 years ago. I bought LogicRC Emperor - was quite expensive utimate and universal solution, but charges everything and can be connected to a PC to put out some data from dis/charge process. It handles ni-cd/mh, li-ion/pol/fepo4 stuff, it has a 20 programs memory, 2 channels, etc. It can be powered from a spare/old laptop dc power source up to 600W DC power source in case you like to charge your lipo quickly just some minutes before ride. And I do balance charge everytime I charge li-xxx cells. I gave cheap chargers that came together with chinese lights to my friends as a spare.

    @oalex100 this pannovo DX case is a nice 18650 cell solution for everyone, so you took a good choice. There are tons of balancers at hobbyking.com - choose one you like.
    Thanks for the advice MK. Do you have the 712B or the 702?. Its definitely one hell of a charger. Very epic! Price is high too. If I was still actively RC-ing, I would consider it, but that is still far in the future and technology moves so fast. I mean mostly the extra high speed charging that you are capable of with that beast.
    Now that you mention it. I do like the option to be able to analyze cells once in a while. I have all kinds of rechargeable in the house hold. Also some times I see (in local) for sales ads, some folks selling Samsung cells for $4. There are only two possibilities: a.) they are fake, b.) they are ripped from some overstocked or stolen laptop pack, etc.
    Obviously I would only be interested in such if its option (b). However I wont be able to tell till I analyze them.

    For me I am considering something like the below. It can match the Emperor in everything,, except output, dual channel and probably quality. However it has extra features which might be fun. For example apart from USB for PC control and analysis, it has build in Bluetooth control via smart-phone. It has apps for both Android and Iphone.

    Don't get me wrong, I don't know how practical this is, but it seems fun. The reviews about it seem ok. User too say its ok on forums that I have read. Its $80 or less so not too pricey. Emperor is over $300 I believe.

    The Battery Thread: 2013-6x80-blueversion-720x480.jpg

    Here is the product page: SKYRC 6x80+ Blue Version Charger

    Here is a nice video: Overview of the Skyrc 6x80 + Bluetooth Function - YouTube

  51. #451
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    Just thought I'd mention that the cord for my pannovo case broke it's shield at the female connector. No undue abuse was directed at the lighting system, but it has been subjected to ≥-10c climate, so it is likely that the low temps stiffened the plastic too much to flex, resulting in the break. Not a big deal as I was going to replace the connection anyway.The Battery Thread: 2013-img_20131206_195936.jpg

  52. #452
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    Yeah the temp will do that. I also plan a changing the cords and connectors on both the case and lamp.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  53. #453
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    I have emperor 702 - the older one and was something about $200 in local shop. But that skyrc 80w charger seems to be a good and much cheaper alternative with a lot of features and ac/dc power choice.

  54. #454
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    $200 is a very very good price. I am in the EU and it is ~$300 the places I looked. We are doomed with high VAT (19-30% depending on which country) but the most frustrating is the 1 euro = 1 dollar according to most global/branded manufacturers pricing, however the value of 1 euro is more than 1 dollar. This way almost always end up paying way more for everything, but getting the same product.

    I did some more research yesterday and one great charger that is getting very good review it the new one top of the line from iCharger. The iCharger 308 Duo and the big brother 4010 Duo. Make sure to check it out, its a 2013 model, so has all the bells and whistles.

    Product page: ProgressiveRC - iCharger 308Duo

    RC racers Forum discussing it: ICHARGER 308 Duo - R/C Tech Forums

    I am really tempted, but can justify it + a Power adapter. Soonest I would restart RC is 2 years. Till then it would just be Li-ion cells (bike) and some AA NiMHs for random stuff in the house. The later being a very rear occasion.

    @All: Apologies for going a bit off topic. Promise its the last one or close to it

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    I can take my 26650 cells out of the pack, put it in 1P config and balance charge them using jst-xh connector and charge leads. My li-po battery has balance connectors, so there is no problem. Even if the pack doesn't have balance connector, you can add one of your choice. Of course you need access to either the cells and nickel strips welded to the cells or to the PCB and solder the connector to PCB.

    I use to balance every charging, but even every 4-5 is OK. Balance charging should take care of that all cells are worn equally.
    I don't mind striping the shrink wrap off my packs and soldering on a balance port. Going to each cell is doable but if I can go strait to the PCB board that would be much easier. Do you know of any good resources or DIY on how to add a balance port? If I need a special PCB for that then I'm not opposed to just buying everything and making my packs from scratch. I tried learning how to make my own packs a few years ago but got very confused on what PCB I needed to use for my 2cell vs 4cell vs 8cell packs and just bought some cheapish from All-Battery instead with no balance port because I didn't know it was important.

    On a related note do the Nice hard shell Gloworm light packs have some kind of auto balancer feature built in or am I going to screwed with those going out of balance as well?

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vilendank View Post
    Just thought I'd mention that the cord for my pannovo case broke it's shield at the female connector. No undue abuse was directed at the lighting system, but it has been subjected to ≥-10c climate, so it is likely that the low temps stiffened the plastic too much to flex, resulting in the break. Not a big deal as I was going to replace the connection anyway.Click image for larger version. 

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    I just noticed in you picture that you have some "greed" rubber for strapping the light. I guess those are not the ones you revived with the light (I got some black). Did you find it lacking? Where did you get those ones? Are they noticeably better?

    I know I hate when I go over some bad roads (especially the ones with those little square paves) and the bike rattles like hell and the light move forward so I need to readjust them.

  57. #457
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    You either need a balance charger that will do the balance charging or you need a PCB with balancing capability. I went for balance charger and I am using jst-xh balance connectors and simple protection PCB with 3V cutoff. For 2S pack the connector has 3 wires no matter how much xP pack it is, so 2S4P, 2S2P and 2S1P have just 3 wires. For 4S pack it is 5 wires conn, etc ... I buy the connectors & wires in our local shops - they are really cheap also on ebay. DYI for balance charging was referred many times here on the forums I think from this source and I found also a very good one here. I would add this connector to the packs mentioned in this thread if I had them to charge them properly.

    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    I don't mind striping the shrink wrap off my packs and soldering on a balance port. Going to each cell is doable but if I can go strait to the PCB board that would be much easier. Do you know of any good resources or DIY on how to add a balance port? If I need a special PCB for that then I'm not opposed to just buying everything and making my packs from scratch. I tried learning how to make my own packs a few years ago but got very confused on what PCB I needed to use for my 2cell vs 4cell vs 8cell packs and just bought some cheapish from All-Battery instead with no balance port because I didn't know it was important.

    On a related note do the Nice hard shell Gloworm light packs have some kind of auto balancer feature built in or am I going to screwed with those going out of balance as well?

  58. #458
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    Basically you only need one more wire, to be able to balance the pack for our 2S setups (as MK96 explain) no matter how many P.
    Why I say 1 more only, is that you can get the other 2 (of the 3 total) by cutting into the mains, that you already have.
    I dont know if I am explaining this well. If you can get one extra wire to unto the pack (where the 2 cell s meet in series) and bring that out. Then you are basically good to go.
    Many hobby balance chargers can charge even without the main connected (just the balancer). So its e very simple job to cut into the two main (+/-) and then derive two wires from there and the third one from the pack as I explained. And you have your 3 pole adapter that you can connect to the balancer.
    If its not clear I can draw you a picture.

  59. #459
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    Just keep smiling I am in the EU too Found Emperor for about $205 here without shipping, but use google translate ;-)

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    $200 is a very very good price. I am in the EU and it is ~$300 the places I looked. We are doomed with high VAT (19-30% depending on which country) but the most frustrating is the 1 euro = 1 dollar according to most global/branded manufacturers pricing, however the value of 1 euro is more than 1 dollar. This way almost always end up paying way more for everything, but getting the same product.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Hahah. Where in EU, UK?
    Very good find. Slovakia is just beside Hungary so shipping can't be much. I have to confess I was only looking at prices for the 712B (not the old model) yesterday and I was finding 200GBP.

  61. #461
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    I just got it! I bought mine here! But the 2x300W version, now they have 2x500W for a nice price. Raytronic is (almost) the same as Fusion(and I have Fusion).

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vilendank View Post
    Just thought I'd mention that the cord for my pannovo case broke it's shield at the female connector. No undue abuse was directed at the lighting system, but it has been subjected to ≥-10c climate, so it is likely that the low temps stiffened the plastic too much to flex, resulting in the break. Not a big deal as I was going to replace the connection anyway.Click image for larger version. 

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    Where can you get replacement connectors from?

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark__gti View Post
    Where can you get replacement connectors from?
    Here you go Bro. Waterproof DC Jacket Connector Electrical Male/Female DC Connector for 5050 3528 | eBay

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    However these: 10 Kit 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug | eBay
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    are more solid and no need for "screwing" around (they have a click-lock mechanism as you can see), also you can use what ever cable you like with them (as in good quality). No the el-chepo that is attached to the Magicshine version that brakes at negative temperature.
    The down side is you have to change the plugs on everything involved (battery, charger and lights). They don't really cost money as you can see (10 pcs kit for ~$3). The Magicshine ones a way overpriced. Its just the hassle of soldering new mains and shit into all the appliances involved.
    I am still contemplating if which route to go. The later will last longer I think.

  64. #464
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    How 'Waterproof'n do the connectors have to be? i received a Yinding light over the weekend and it has crap connectors


  65. #465
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    I personally don't think you can short those due to rain. Only thing to consider is corroding on the long run, if it get moist at random. Thats just my humble and illiterate opinion. You better get some answers from some of our expert forum mates.

  66. #466
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    I have a dumb question:

    If you put 4 x 3100 mAh single cells into a 4 pack adapter/holder do you end up with a 12400 mAh pack?

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekbob View Post
    I have a dumb question:

    If you put 4 x 3100 mAh single cells into a 4 pack adapter/holder do you end up with a 12400 mAh pack?
    No, you end up with a 6200 may pack

  68. #468
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    it depends how are the cells wired: series/parallel?

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark__gti View Post
    No, you end up with a 6200 may pack
    No , he could end up with 12400 if he went all parallel (3.6V). He never said he needed 7.4V.

  70. #470
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    TBH I don't even know what voltage I need. I'm looking to get some high capacity packs to run 2 x 2013 Gemini Olympias for 2 to 3 hours on high. I don't mind running two packs but one would be ideal.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekbob View Post
    TBH I don't even know what voltage I need. I'm looking to get some high capacity packs to run 2 x 2013 Gemini Olympias.
    And you don't bother to check? I know I am lazy, but JEzz.

    Its 7.4V like more Bike light. Connected in parallel to the pack. You will need nothing less than 3400x8 2S4P (aka Panasonic) to drive those on high for the time you want. Or you could get two separate packs of 2S2P same cells (making it 6800 each pack) and drive the lights independently. You can buy some pre-made packs from Hunk Lee. As recommended by folks on this tread, just read back.

    May I ask, what you need two of those for on constant high continuously?

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    And you don't bother to check? I know I am lazy, but JEzz.

    Its 7.4V like more Bike light. Connected in parallel to the pack. You will need nothing less than 3400x8 2S4P (aka Panasonic) to drive those on high for the time you want. Or you could get two separate packs of 2S2P same cells (making it 6800 each pack) and drive the lights independently. You can buy some pre-made packs from Hunk Lee. As recommended by folks on this tread, just read back.

    May I ask, what you need two of those for on constant high continuously?
    I don't need two of those for on constant high continuously, but I would like to be able to head out for a 4 hour ride and not worry about running out of juice. I know its overkill, but I'm a light junkie. Thanks for the advice, I have been looking at HunkLee batteries, they look sweet.

  73. #473
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    Fwiw I have been running the olympia about 3 hours on high give or take on the 6 cell Gemini battery, the older 8400? Mah version that came with the 8.7v charger. The catch to all this is that the runtime drops drastically in cold weather. What gives you 3 hours in 70 degree ambient temps will give you 2 in brutal cold. I am not sure if this is a concern where you live but a definite issue for me.

    If you are settled on a single pack the large hunk lee pack looks promising but I tend to habe issues with the high current draw of the olympia not playing nice with a second light and y cable. I feel that two packs will be a better bet plus its safer should something go awry with one

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekbob View Post
    TBH I don't even know what voltage I need. I'm looking to get some high capacity packs to run 2 x 2013 Gemini Olympias for 2 to 3 hours on high. I don't mind running two packs but one would be ideal.
    D-Bob also followed and said this;

    I don't need two of those ( Olympia's ) for on constant high continuously, but I would like to be able to head out for a 4 hour ride and not worry about running out of juice. I know its overkill, but I'm a light junkie. Thanks for the advice, I have been looking at HunkLee batteries, they look sweet.
    Since you want to run two high powered lamps it is really hard to give advise but I will try. I think there are two ways to look at this; you can run two lamps on high with the biggest / highest capacity cells available then hope you get 4 hours OR you can use smaller batteries and use just the amount of light that you really need.

    One Olympia using a high capacity 4-cell run on high might get you two to two and half hours run time. Now if you run the lamp with the same battery but kick it back to a nice 600-700 lumen range you might get close to that 4 hour mark.

    If I were going to use a two Olympia set up ( on the bars ) I would likely do the following.....Find me a really high capacity 7.4 volt Li-Po battery capable of handling a very high current output or find a high capacity Panasonic 6-cell setup....step two, hook it up to a Y-cable to the Olympia's. ...#3, set one Olympia on a nice 300-400 lumen level and just let it run. Then I would use the other Olympia ( as normal ) to add or lessen the amount of light that I might need at any given moment.

    Using the lamps this way when both lamps are on the 400 lumen setting you end up with an actual 800 lumen output BUT it is a MORE efficient 800 lumen. And so it goes, a 400+1500 high level gets you near 2000 lumen. That's a lot of light. If you want max output for that fast down hill you can always switch both to high but if it were me I think once you get into the 2000 lumen range it really won't make much of a difference but that is just my opinion.

    Summing up, if you run both lamps within a reasonable output ( ~ 600-800 lumen combined output ) at least 80% of the time you should be able to get a 4 hour run time if you have a good battery set-up and know how to use it.

  75. #475
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    Thanks for the advice guys. I'm currently running 2x MJ6030H 5600mAh batteries which work great but a single unit to take their place would be awesome.
    I'm thinking of something like this:

    Panasonic NCR18650B 7 4V 13600mAh Protected Li ion Battery for Bike Light 2S4PHM | eBay

    I currently have enough light stuff to ride anywhere I'm able with plenty of light so it's on the back burner.

  76. #476
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    I have two Olympia's and my 6030h can not handle the two Olympia's on high. To much draw. The Olympia's will immediately start flashing red. I tried the hunk lee 10200mah and they run good. I usually run my Olympia's at 80% to be safe. Hunk Lee batteries are sweet.

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    ^as these guys have said, dialing the output of the high setting to 80 percent give or take isnt all that noticable and makes a big difference. When its cold I scale back to 80 and it brings my runtimes back

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    Go for high current discharge Li-po and flashing will go away. These cells holds the same capacity even when discharged by 30C current. But you will have some other issues - the space the cells will take, probably the charger to charge it and maybe some more. But nothing that can't be solved.

    I use that one for about a year:


    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    D-Bob also followed and said this;
    If I were going to use a two Olympia set up ( on the bars ) I would likely do the following.....Find me a really high capacity 7.4 volt Li-Po battery capable of handling a very high current output ...

  79. #479
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    Lol big heavy stuff. Miss those RC days.

    Still I consider it too much of a risk and can see that thing exploding right between your legs. I would only risk it in a solid container, that a tree branch can't pierce during a fall. Easy way to go impotent.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  80. #480
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    It is in a bag with some pads and insulation - thermal also, so branch can't hurt it. And it is not very heavy - about 350g for battery & bag under my saddle. It won't explode between my legs, it is protected with 3V cutoff & monitored with very noisy RC lipo alarm. As we have a baby now I like security

  81. #481
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    BTW dont lipo's have much less recharge cycles than Li-ion?

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    They are widely used not only in android cell phones, so if you handle it with care they last as long as li-ion.

  83. #483
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    I'm not sure about the number of recharge cycles on Li-po's so that is a question I'll have to look up. As far as a Li-Po battery getting punctured....ehhh....not likely to happen but if the battery is "hard cased" or protected in some way it shouldn't be an issue. The real issue would be finding a good solution to mounting the dang thing as Li-Po's tend to be be oddly shaped and usually don't come with a standard MS type connector plug. The advantage of Li-Po of course is that they are generally capable of supplying a higher output current than standard Li-ion packs. Not usually an issue unless you want to power more than one high powered lamp off of one battery.

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    I hope that I won't have current draw problems with my 2 owls.+another 350mA that i need for something else. I don't know what they need on high. But I don't think 2x 2S2P 3400 Panasonic should have a problem with that.

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  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    You either need a balance charger that will do the balance charging or you need a PCB with balancing capability. I went for balance charger and I am using jst-xh balance connectors and simple protection PCB with 3V cutoff. For 2S pack the connector has 3 wires no matter how much xP pack it is, so 2S4P, 2S2P and 2S1P have just 3 wires. For 4S pack it is 5 wires conn, etc ... I buy the connectors & wires in our local shops - they are really cheap also on ebay. DYI for balance charging was referred many times here on the forums I think from this source and I found also a very good one here. I would add this connector to the packs mentioned in this thread if I had them to charge them properly.
    Ok so I looked at your first link and it was super helpful so thanks. One thing ill still ask is according to the link each 7.4v LILO pack only has two battery cells and each of these cells can have multiple individual cells to increase your overall battery capacity. So in the diagram for wiring up a balance connector you only need to go to each battery pack cell and not necessarily each individual cell. This is nice because its much simpler then I had thought but makes me me wonder why the individual cells on one side of the pack don't become imbalanced among themselves?

    Also if I get individually protected cells do I still need to wire in a pcb?

    For those of you that have LIPo packs with a balance connector what do you do with it while the pack is mounted on the bike? I kinda need this stuff to be water resistant if no proof. I normally just pasti dip all my packs after they are shrink wrapped but I'm not sure what to do with the exposed balance connector.

  86. #486
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    Yes 7.4V li-po/li-ion has 2 cells and more can be wired parallel to them and you need just 3 balancing wires. About the imbalance among the cells in parallel connection ... well it should not happen, but you never know. I wrote some tech ideas in this thread recently. On the other hand parallel connection is widely used in notebooks where you can have 12 cell battery in 3s4p config and cells are balanced & worn quite properly. But these cells are not a cheap stuff and their internal resistance should be nearly the same - but that is only what I am thinking about.

    Individually protected cells don't need to be attached to any PCB, they have each their own PCB already.

    my li-po's home is in this bag under the saddle wih some extras but from an other seller - this one has never arrived. The bag is capable of accomodating 2 of those 8000mAh li-pos still protecting them well. It might not be water proof, but seems to be water resistant and suit my needs. The balance connector uses my li-po low voltage warning alarm that aslo monitors each cell threshold and can be set from 2.8 to 3.6 (I use 3.0).

    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    This is nice because its much simpler then I had thought but makes me me wonder why the individual cells on one side of the pack don't become imbalanced among themselves?

    Also if I get individually protected cells do I still need to wire in a pcb?

    For those of you that have LIPo packs with a balance connector what do you do with it while the pack is mounted on the bike? I kinda need this stuff to be water resistant if no proof. I normally just pasti dip all my packs after they are shrink wrapped but I'm not sure what to do with the exposed balance connector.

  87. #487
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    Good ideas with the lipos. But I'll stick with using them for my planes.
    Last edited by Gharddog03; 12-11-2013 at 01:36 AM.

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    BTW dont lipo's have much less recharge cycles than Li-ion?

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
    After doing some searching their doesn't seem to be a a big difference in cycle life between Li-Po and Li-ion ( unless I'm missing something.. ). Reading up on it though I did find some interesting facts. Rarely do Li-ion batteries arrive to the consumer at their listed capacity. This was no surprise to me but I thought others might find it interesting.

    When it comes to "how many *cycles will a Li-battery get"?, the usual answer is , "Somewhere between *300-500 cycles. ( * from 4.2volt to 3volt...full discharge ) That's because there are a variety of factors that play into determining what the useful life of a battery is. Those factors are as follows:

    1) DoD...otherwise known as Depth of Discharge. The deeper the discharge the faster the battery will age. If you routinely do a 50% DoD you can double the amount of useable discharge cycles ( *according to Battery University ) Still, other factors play a part in determining this issue as well.

    2) High storage or operating temperatures along with extreme current drains also factor in to shortening the batteries useable life span although Li-Po is known for being able to handle both higher charge and discharge rates when compared to standard Li-ion technology.

    2) Peak Charge. Peak charge for Li-batteries is 4.2 volts per cell. Battery life can be extended if the battery is only brought to 4 volts. Doing this though lowers the useable capacity of the battery by about 30%. For most people this is not a practical way to extend battery life BUT once again it has a lot to do with the starting capacity of a battery, the expected DoD and how well the user chooses to otherwise, "baby", their battery.

    Interestingly, Battery University had graph of a typical single Li-Po cell cycle run down. Starting with new Li-po cells ( 88-94% of listed capacity ) At 250 full discharge cycles the actual starting capacities dropped to between 73-84% of the initial starting capacities. BU went on to explain that most manufacturers of batteries over-rate their batteries. No surprise there. Personally, I would consider anything within 80% of ( new battery ) initial capacity a quite useable battery.

    Summing up, a lot depends on the needs and opinion of the user as to just what constitutes a useable battery capacity. If you have a battery with a larger initial capacity and rarely discharge it fully you should get many years of useable life from your Li-ion, Li-po battery. Learning how to baby the battery a little to extend the "useable life" can't hurt.

  89. #489
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    I wouldn't write it better Great explanation.

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    Just an FYI

    I bought one of those 19 dollar delivered cheap batteries, 6.6ah 6 cell.

    I tested it on my Dinotte XML-3 and it ran 2:05 on high before the light flashed red and another 1/2 hour before it went out. Just to make sure, I plugged it into a cheap 1 XML clone and it still ran it though the light head was on red.

    So I'm guessing the battery is actually about 4.0ah as the original Dinotte batteries were 4.4ah (4-cell) and ran the light head on high when new about 2:20 before they flashed red. I never discharged them. They are on their 3rd season and now last about 1:20 on high before they go red.

    So I'd say w/ the cheap batteries you can do a fast figure of 60% of the stated AH as actual.

    For 19 bucks delivered, I guess if I can get 2 seasons I'm doing good.

  91. #491
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    Car battery failures are the most frequent motoring problem, so how do you avoid them?

  92. #492
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    Has anyone tried the first battery listed in cat-man-do's table at the beginning of this thread? Its from what I believe to be a china seller (light box) and uses 4x 28650 cells. I doubt it comes close to rated capacity but even if its 60 or 70 percent its still a cheap option for those who need extended run times but dont care about the weight. It is currently on sale for 22 dollars so I may give it a try

  93. #493
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    Received my Panasonic NCR18650B 7.4V 3400mAh from Hunk Lee in 12 days. Can't ID the cells through the wrapping.

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    Since we were also talking about balance charging our packs, I have a reliable source of various PCBs and some of them have balance charging capabilities: Protection Board for 2 Packs 8 4V Li ion Lithium 18650 Battery O P 7A w Balance | eBay

    I don't use PCBs with balance charging Those who would like to just have to swap their PCBs for something similiar I posted here. There is a lot of stuff with led indications etc ... If you do balance charging use a powersource of about 1A, because the heat will dissipate from the PCB when balancing.

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    Hi MK,
    I was considering something similar, but only after I already ordered protected cells. So no longer useful for me. However I will maybe go this route the next time.
    I have to confess I am not sure how well this things do compared to a high end balancing charger. Either one has to be underwhelming or the other over hyped. They can't both be just as good I feel. Things like precision and whatnot.
    Anyway I think we are already over doing it. We were all able to go down the same trail with similar speed 5-10 years ago and most of use did not have 1-2000 lumens. Hell we were happy with 10th of that with halogen and NiMH cells.
    Few years from now we might be looking back and laughing at lithium as power source. Who knows.

    Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigmode View Post
    Received my Panasonic NCR18650B 7.4V 3400mAh from Hunk Lee in 12 days. Can't ID the cells through the wrapping.
    Don't doubt us, we never cheat anyone in the world, as we want to do long-term business with worldwide customers.
    PVC heat shrink tube can protect inside battery and PCM from short-circuit and water in. Also looked nice than nade.
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

  97. #497
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    Both my packs from HunkLee have performed flawlessly.

  98. #498
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    Thank you!
    We will list such battery pack with cells from Samsung, Panasonic, Sanyo etc as well as by 26650 4500MAH.
    FMA Battery
    No Battery, No living.

  99. #499
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    I haven't tried them, my 2S PCB from this seller meets the exact specs given by them, so I suppose the other PCBs are woking also as advertised.

    Aaaaaaah yes, the good old times on a hardtail with stiff front fork and alkaline/ni-mh halogen light Technology makes a giant leaps todays ...

    Quote Originally Posted by oalex100 View Post
    I have to confess I am not sure how well this things do compared to a high end balancing charger. Either one has to be underwhelming or the other over hyped. They can't both be just as good I feel.

    Anyway I think we are already over doing it. We were all able to go down the same trail with similar speed 5-10 years ago and most of use did not have 1-2000 lumens. Hell we were happy with 10th of that with halogen and NiMH cells.
    Few years from now we might be looking back and laughing at lithium as power source. Who knows.

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by manbeer View Post
    Has anyone tried the first battery listed in cat-man-do's table at the beginning of this thread? Its from what I believe to be a china seller (light box) and uses 4x 28650 cells. I doubt it comes close to rated capacity but even if its 60 or 70 percent its still a cheap option for those who need extended run times but dont care about the weight. It is currently on sale for 22 dollars so I may give it a try
    Yes, that battery is very tempting isn't it. Just keep in mind that it is the one battery I issued a warning on ( see post #16 and the following photo's that accompany it ).

    Could of been the guy just got a bad one. If someone else wants to roll the dice on one I'd love to read about how well it might work. Just keep in mind that this battery is a little big and little heavy. It will need a good size pouch to fit the battery.

    Quote Originally Posted by synodbio View Post
    Car battery failures are the most frequent motoring problem, so how do you avoid them?
    This is of course OT; If you keep your car more than 4 years replace the car battery before the cold season on the fifth year. If your car battery is still working after five years you got more than your moneys worth. After 5 years just replace it before it dies ( which it will and usually at the worst possible time )

    Quick tip, if you buy a used car be sure to check the battery BEFORE you drive it off the lot. If it looks old have the dealer replace it. Doing this will save you a tow bill as used car dealers like to scrimp on things like batteries.

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