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  1. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimInSF View Post
    Would love to see some testing of dyno driven lights included!
    That would be dyno-mite

    Do I have to keep pedaling though while taking a photo?

    What are the most important dyno lights out there?

    fc

  2. #127
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    If it's of use to you, Francois, I can tell you this much:

    Peter White's site and the Dutch site mentioned above [can't link to it, but the domain is swhs[dot]xs4all[dot]nl] is where you will find the skinny on all things dynamo. Both sites are great, and Peter White's is just beautiful. Both are well worth a read.

    peterwhitecycles[dot]com

    Some of the most important dynamo hubs are at Starbike[dot]com.

    Note that Shimano has, or is coming out with, a Deore XT DH-T785 centerlock dynamo hub. Beyond that, the Schmidt SON and the Supernovas 8 [660g] and S [400g] are among the most reputable hubs.

    Exposure lights is rumored to be working on a bright dynamo light. We've talked about the Philips, and check White's site for the rest.

  3. #128
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    Please note:
    You can't use normal AA batteries (alkaline or lithiums) with the Philips Safe Ride LED Battery Light.

    The light can only work with NiMH rechargeable batteries because of the LED driver.
    The voltage across the LEDs are 6.1 - 6.49V which means that the driver is a boost converter, and that the battery voltage must be less than LED voltage.

  4. #129
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    I can't wait

    Quote Originally Posted by francois View Post
    Most of the shooting, measuring is going to happen in the next three days. Wish me luck.

    I have a TON of lights.

    A bunch more are coming but they're still on a ship or getting soldered somewhere:
    Jet Lites, Cateye, Gemini, Hope, Lezyne

    Cygolite is just not in. I'll buy all the lights myself at REI.


    I rode last night at with the Piko X on the bar and the Piko 3 on the helmet. Each light is 750 lumen. It was a new level of awesome. The lights disappeared in the riding experience and the two big beam patterns sang a duet like Sonny and Cher.

    fc
    My favorite is the light shoot out. Hey Francois what bike are you ridding?

  5. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by coach2win View Post
    My favorite is the light shoot out. Hey Francois what bike are you ridding?
    I'm riding a Look FS bike in that photo. It was a prototype and it never got released in the US market. So it's a one of a kind!

    I built this new Highball bike though and I think I will be riding it all winter.

    fc
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Mtbr Lights Shootout.-img_9738.jpg  

    2012 Mtbr Lights Shootout.-img_1917.jpg  


  6. #131
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    Pehaps prevent misscharging

    Lithium batteries(same size as AA) cannot be used because they have much higher voltage than Ni-MH batteries.
    Using them will damage the electoronics circuit.
    But the reason normal(Alkaline) AA battery should not be used is other.

    User Manual describes,

    >In the event of non-rechargeable batteries being used, there is a risk of
    >explosion should be attempt be made to recharge batteries.

    So if you NEVER make a mistake of attempt charging them,
    Alkaline batteries can be used, I think.
    But you must open the battery lid by rotaing screws whenever you change batteries.
    It will be a bit labor.

  7. #132
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    Smile Real World Tests - Get out of the backyard.

    Hello,

    This is my first post in this forum. I have been night riding since the mid 90's. Back then I had a full water bottle dual beam NiteRider rig that I used in the Santa Monica Mountains north of Sunset, and it was bright enough to bring home two riders in front of me who lights had long since failed.

    Today, I am looking at moving back to the bay area after living in Tahoe for the past three years and looking to replace my older NiteRider HID lights. I don't ride at night up here, too scary, you never know what can come out of the bushes at you. In the Berkeley hills , it was scary enough dodging dear, up here its the bears

    Anyways, I have a lot of experience riding at night, both on road and off, and I demand a lot from my lights. For me, I feel safer at night riding my bike as I am actively involved in my visibility vs. the daytime where it is a more passive affair. For the most part, I use my lights for commuting and working out (road) which means riding 20 miles an hour in traffic, up to 50+ down S. Park or Claremont. I have been looking at reviews of lights and I know it is late, but here is what I like to see, and what I favor in a light.

    1. Handle Bar Lights: For me, watching you show the light in your backyard means very little to me. It is out of context, I don't ride my bike in the backyard so watching you shine a light there doesn't really let me know how it performs on the street. Lights & Motion does it well. An underpass with distance and angle lines on the street. What I am looking for in a handlebar light that can keep the road in front of me lit up, regardless of the noise around me. On-coming traffic, traffic from behind, amber or white street lights, a little rain or fog, you can't get a sense of that from your back-yard. The problem is that every light looks better in total darkness. What I need to know is will the on-coming traffic headlights overpower my light and mask that pothole on the road or not? If I am coming down Claremont at 45+ will the light see the sewer covers in the middle of the road? This light needs a good throw, but it also needs a good flood, especially right in front of you. What good is it to pick-up an object 75 feet out in front of you, if it drops out of the spot into 20 feet in front of you? Makes it difficult to thread the needle, on road or off.

    2. Headlight. This light has saved my life a couple of times. One time, I was crossing in intersection and a driver from the on-coming traffic lane decided to do a snap left to beat the traffic. Had it not been for my headlight flooding his windshield forcing him to hit the breaks hard, he would have taken me out. I am sure many of you have had something like this happen to you. While I like handlebar light have a good flood to it, I like the Headlight to be a good spot, one that doesn't get washed out by the headlight, and as long as I keep it focused on the road, it won't blind on-coming traffic. For example, the Vis-360 ranked well as a commuter light, but it is difficult to tell how much stopping power it has. I would like to see lights for helmets waived back and forth around a handlebar light so I get a feel for what it adds to the light. My problem is if you get a light that doesn't match the handlebar light well, then when looking to the side you have to wait for your eyes to adjust lower light level. What you want is that where ever you put your spot, your eyes are already adjusted.

    3. Tail Light. Francois, you mentioned during your review of the Vis-180 that you wondered why it didn't just flash, it it went in and out. The reason is that a flashing light is harder for a driver to judge distance, especially in less than optimal conditions. I liked the 10-led NiteRider tail light, for more than a decade, nothing came close. I used it in always on mode and a battery one in flasher mode. What I want to see in a tail light is how far can you see it clearly? Put a car 100 feet away with the tail lights on, then put the tail light 10 feet to the right, how does it relate? I know you said you can't film it in flash mode, but you could put a whole bar of lights next to a car tail light (not braking) at different distances. Right away, we would be able to see the performance of the whole line in one shot. How about a shot during the day? I like riding with a flasher all the time. Remember, I live up at Tahoe and I have to compete with the lake for people's attention.

    Lastly, what I would like to see is for you to match systems in different price ranges. If you had $200, what helmet, handlebar and tail light would you choose, What if you had $300, $700, you get the idea.

    I am sorry if got carried away in my first post. I hope some of what I said was useful.

    - Roger

  8. #133
    Slow But Still Pedaling
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    Quote Originally Posted by francois View Post
    That would be dyno-mite

    Do I have to keep pedaling though while taking a photo?

    What are the most important dyno lights out there?

    fc
    No pedaling for photos, the dyno is in the front wheel!

    I think the most popular are the Schmidt Edelux, the Supernova E3 in symmetric, asymmetric, and triple configurations (I use the triple), and maybe the B&M Lumotec IQ Fly.

  9. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimInSF View Post
    No pedaling for photos, the dyno is in the front wheel!

    I think the most popular are the Schmidt Edelux, the Supernova E3 in symmetric, asymmetric, and triple configurations (I use the triple), and maybe the B&M Lumotec IQ Fly.
    Rollers?
    See here for some examples of dyno beams:
    headlight beams from Peter White Cycles
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
    A few Dynamo builds and some Small battery lights

  10. #135
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    I am going to redo this video, but you guys can take a peek at my ramblings.

    edits:
    - keep it under 5 minutes
    - stop saying 'umm' all the time
    - get a temperature gun to get a real reading.
    - point all lights at the wall
    - wear better shorts

    fc


  11. #136
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    Francois, one of our lbs is selling the Surfas True1500. How would you rate their lumen claims? Second, i was wondering if you have anything fron High Beam? They are showing a new light called the Night Nemesis X-12 claiming up to 4500 lumens.

  12. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by francois View Post
    I am going to redo this video, but you guys can take a peek at my ramblings.

    edits:
    - keep it under 5 minutes
    - stop saying 'umm' all the time
    - get a temperature gun to get a real reading.
    - point all lights at the wall
    - wear better shorts

    fc

    u can get a cheap small temp gun at any local r/c shop , would be very helpful if you could somehow note how much lumen output drops with temp increase

  13. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by suvowner View Post
    u can get a cheap small temp gun at any local r/c shop , would be very helpful if you could somehow note how much lumen output drops with temp increase
    Yessir!! I am RC guy so I used to have an awesome temp gun.

    fc
    Last edited by francois; 10-03-2011 at 05:34 PM.

  14. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Francois, one of our lbs is selling the Surfas True1500. How would you rate their lumen claims? Second, i was wondering if you have anything fron High Beam? They are showing a new light called the Night Nemesis X-12 claiming up to 4500 lumens.
    Serfas Lumen claims are legit. That is at least 1500 lumens. That measured 133 lux on my meter and it ran for 2 hours 8 minutes on high.

    I'll check on Nemesis X-12.

    fc

  15. #140
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    Are you also testing lights from CygoLite like the MityCross 480 and the cordless Expilion lights?

  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by djembe975 View Post
    Are you also testing lights from CygoLite like the MityCross 480 and the cordless Expilion lights?
    Yes. What are the significant lights from Cygolite? They don't want to send lights so I'll just buy them.

    fc

  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    ...new light called the Night Nemesis X-12 claiming up to 4500 lumens.
    Only 4500 lumens? We need at least 9000! And a battery pack the size of the one in a Tesla roadster.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2012 Mtbr Lights Shootout.-tesla-roadster-battery-pack.jpg  

    "... displays the social skills of a barrel cactus." - TNC

  18. #143
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    LOL!!!! i know, even tooo much for me if you can believe that.

  19. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by francois View Post
    Yes. What are the significant lights from Cygolite? They don't want to send lights so I'll just buy them.

    fc
    I'm particularly interested in the MityCross 480 and the Expilion 400 cordless series mainly due to size and price.

  20. #145
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    I second the Expillion 400. It would make a very good "back up" light and be good for commuting as well.
    Francois, have you contacted Nightlightning in NZ? I rate my twin IBlaast IX highly and would love to see it matched up against the others in the extreme lumen catergory.

  21. #146
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    It would be interesting to see the Cygolite Turbo 740. Claimed 740 lumen at $170 MSRP.

    The new Lezyne lights look good for the price as well.

  22. #147
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    Hey Francois,

    Your doing great work! Too bad about the cygolites, I probably wont buy one cause they decided not to send you one. Sucks because of the 400-600 lumen lights, the expilion was the cheapest.

    Any update on when you will either be releasing some reviews or when the shootout is going live?

  23. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by francois View Post
    Serfas Lumen claims are legit. That is at least 1500 lumens. That measured 133 lux on my meter and it ran for 2 hours 8 minutes on high.

    I'll check on Nemesis X-12.

    fc
    Sounds like a contender for it's lumen output range.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by blueyin View Post
    Hey Francois,

    Your doing great work! Too bad about the cygolites, I probably wont buy one cause they decided not to send you one. Sucks because of the 400-600 lumen lights, the expilion was the cheapest.

    Any update on when you will either be releasing some reviews or when the shootout is going live?
    I personally wouldn't suggest you drop them out of consideration just because they don't send lights in to this mtbr light shootout. There could be very valid reasons why they don't wish to participate, and at least in my opinion it in no way reflects poorly on them.
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  25. #150
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    Cygolite, legit reasons not to partcipate, lay them on me! Im all ears and eyes.

    Quote Originally Posted by randyharris View Post
    I personally wouldn't suggest you drop them out of consideration just because they don't send lights in to this mtbr light shootout. There could be very valid reasons why they don't wish to participate, and at least in my opinion it in no way reflects poorly on them.
    Randyharris:

    You know, I would really enjoy hearing any valid reasons for them not to participate. I'm not trying to be snarky or anything. I honestly cant think why every other major player in the bike light business sent their lights in except cygolite, other than they have something to hide/dont think their lights will be able to compete.

    IMHO, if you fail to send your lights in and dont want to bother giving us a reason. Then we are going to think the worst.

    But hey man, if you got some legit reasons you think they wouldnt participate. Lay them on me.

    I'm all ears and eyes.

    Heck as I noted before, Cygolite has the cheapest light in the range that I am looking for.

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