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  1. #1
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    xXx (with active cooling)

    I'm gonna call this one xXx (or just triple-"X"...ala...Vin Diesel)



    I was bored and had nothing to do in the shop b/c I'm outta hex bar and my remaining 3 test hosts for quazzle's L3x board are getting anodized. I still had some 1" square stock left over from an order mishap. The first challenge was chucking up a 4-sided structure in a 3-jaw lathe. Finally got my 20mm hole bored. (set up for a snap ring retainer) This one is a bit different. I wanted to free up the optics a bit b/c I noticed that on my 20mm projects...the O-ring laps over the optics a bit.

    I bored a 20mm hole for the board and optics and a 21.5mm hole for the lens and O-ring. The O-ring is a 21mm OD / 19mm ID...so I get a seal directly over the seam. (RIGHTEOUS!!)


    Moving on to the rest of the proposed idea...

    Not an original idea to say the least...do a search for Rubix or Wall-E here on MTBR and you'll see a couple of incredible active cooling designs. I will be using the same thermostat as was used in both of those lights. I have a Sunon 5vDC 25x25x6mm cooling fan on order from Digikey. I also have a 5v DC voltage regulator which I'm still not so sure I need. Can I run a 5vDC fan on a 7.4v LiIon pack safely?

    If I really need the vReg...I'll heat shrink it into the power cable, tie it in to the pos/neg and run the 3rd leg up into the thermostat and out to the fan.

    Here's the pocket for the thermostat:


    I had to do an angled hole that drops out the bottom and then straight back...(kinda like a backward hood scoop)...the wiring will run right over the top of the thermostat and out the back by the fan.




    I will be shaving down two opposite corners of the cooling fan to match the contour.


    Obviously the reason I'm calling it xXx...the triple emitter board mixed with the "X" pattern of the fins from the back. The body looks like a freakin' chunk until you see how much of it will be fins. It's quite lightweight...maybe even lighter than the hex lights. I have two M3 holes drilled and tapped awaiting the cooling fan.



    You can see where I stopped finning on the bottom...project on hold until I replace my broken HS 2mm end mill. I was getting impatient and taking off a bit much with the mill. I knew better. I'd be finning this right now instead of just talking about it. I am considering continuing the fins (shallow) all the way out to the face. The goal of this light is to keep it cool.


    2 new end mills OTW.
    Last edited by chelboed; 05-21-2010 at 11:27 PM.

  2. #2
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    The fan:

  3. #3
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    Thermostat:

  4. #4
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    My thoughts are you may be creating a solution to a problem that may not exist and adding complexity .

    But just doing it is fun

  5. #5
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    Agree...I am actually contemplating a plan C which incorporates a lazer beam to shoot the spiders as I ride before they hit my face.

  6. #6
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    That is some really nice work! I did not even know they made 1" fans, please keep post'n pics.

    One suggestion for your next project - why go for just one laser when you can have four? Behold the quad laser!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNYMxgNKIEU

  7. #7
    A waste of time it is is
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    Chelboed, when you do version D, may I suggest you creat vertical fins from top to bottom and mount the fan on the underside of the fins. The hot air will naturally tend to rise, with the fan on this will only be amplified. The way it is now you will be blowing the hot air into a dead end and back against the emitter.

    Just a thought.

  8. #8
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    I really did consider that...I'll have to really give it a go if this one pans out.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    Not an original idea to say the least...do a search for Rubix or Wall-E here on MTBR and you'll see a couple of incredible active cooling designs. I will be using the same thermostat as was used in both of those lights. I have a Sunon 5vDC 25x25x6mm cooling fan on order from Digikey. I also have a 5v DC voltage regulator which I'm still not so sure I need. Can I run a 5vDC fan on a 7.4v LiIon pack safely?
    Hmmm... could those be my lights you're referring to? Sorry I got a little busy, and couldn't get back to your PM last week.

    The regulator does need sinking, but at your current draw you might be able to get away without it. But... you should in case the fan ceases or get's stuck while riding, in which case it'll will draw more power causing it to run hot.

    Also you can run the voltage reg before the thermostat... I just did it the other way around so that I don't have quiescent power loss of the regulator when not in use (though it's probably insignificant). Also note that your 7.4V pack is 8.4 fully charged, which might be a little too much over spec for the fan.

    Hope that helps.

  10. #10
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    Helps alot! Thanks. I'll either:

    a. run it w/o a regulator and overvolt the fan giving it more oomph...and if it burns out...do the vReg
    b. build a small housing for an external vReg in line with the power cord. I just don't think I left enough room for both.

  11. #11
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    On the other hand...I may be able to bring the "pocket" back a mm or so and forward 3-4mm giving me enough room to sandwich them in there face-to-face...hmmm...

  12. #12
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    Fun to watch your projects.
    Keep posting them, I think they are cool.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    very nice work

    list of tools?
    It is possible for rice to absorb other odors in storage. Or could be the quality of water in it was prepared. Mahatma Rice

  15. #15
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    That fan appears to be mounted backward… unless the unit is supposed to be a tail light???
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    My thoughts are you may be creating a solution to a problem that may not exist and adding complexity .

    But just doing it is fun
    I agree.

    My twin luxeon rebel setup uses standard 3/4" copper tubing with no dedicated heatsink and it still maintains a temp of only ~120 deg F in standing air with an ambient temp of about 76 deg F.

    Keep in mind these LEDs can handle upwards of 200+ deg F and while the performance might degrade at such temps, if you're using the light you probably aren't standing still . On my bike, I've never felt its temp rise above ~85 degrees.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leopold Porkstacker
    That fan appears to be mounted backward… unless the unit is supposed to be a tail light???
    I guess it depends on which way you want the air to flow. I had it mounted the other way initially, but it was pulling air through the unit instead of blowing air through it. I am hoping that blowing air directly at the base of the heatsink will keep it cooler than drawing air through it.


    I plan to try it both ways and check temps.
    Last edited by chelboed; 05-25-2010 at 06:55 AM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldassracer
    very nice work

    list of tools?
    Cheapest Harbor Freight drill press
    Cheapest Harbor Freight cross slide vice
    2,4,6mm 4fl HS end mills from Victor Machine
    Neighbors 1920's lathe for the flat-bottom hole in the front
    $3 dial calipers from Harbor Freight
    Little metric ruler

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by klohiq
    I agree.

    My twin luxeon rebel setup uses standard 3/4" copper tubing with no dedicated heatsink and it still maintains a temp of only ~120 deg F in standing air with an ambient temp of about 76 deg F.

    Keep in mind these LEDs can handle upwards of 200+ deg F and while the performance might degrade at such temps, if you're using the light you probably aren't standing still . On my bike, I've never felt its temp rise above ~85 degrees.
    The XP-G is max rated at 302

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    I guess it depends on which way you want the air to flow. I had it mounted the other way initially, but it was pulling air through the unit instead of blowing air through it. I am hoping that blowing air directly at the base of the heatsink will keep it cooler than drawing air through it.


    I plan to try it both ways and check temps.
    Blowing air into the fins from the rear of the light will work against the air flow while moving. Not sure if this would be a problem, but is something to think about.

    I also agree with Troutie regarding the need for active cooling on a triple setup. But I think this would be a great idea to put on a miniature 7-up housing! Hmmm?

    I continue to be amazed and impressed at the quality of work you achieve with a drill press! Makes me want to get that setup for home.

  21. #21
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    Yeah...seems everyone's on the fence about the heat issue...thus, I wanted to have one ready when my boards get here. I gotta have one to use right away, LOL.

    I wouldn't expect the cooling fan to turn on while I'm clipping along, but on a climb I don't think it'd work against it too much.

    As I mentioned though...I'll be testing the hypothesis both ways.

  22. #22
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    L332 has a LDO 5V regulator on board with 100mA output which you can use to power the fan (check the specs at http://www.lux-rc.com/content/showca...-EN-200410.pdf

  23. #23
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    Man the L332 just keeps getting better! Good work quazzle : )

  24. #24
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    I don't think 100mA is enough to power that fan, but I could be wrong

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle
    L332 has a LDO 5V regulator on board with 100mA output which you can use to power the fan (check the specs at http://www.lux-rc.com/content/showca...-EN-200410.pdf


    What's LDO stand for again?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    What's LDO stand for again?
    Low dropout regulator which will put out 5v form any input voltage above 5 volts

  27. #27
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    in fact I use a 250ma regulator on board. 10ma consumed internally by the driver and microprocessor. so it still has about 200ma to be provided externally. LDO is a linear regulator so that's why I limited the recommended load at 90-100ma. just to minimize the excessive heat produced by the LDO chip. But as long as you have a fan the heat shouldn't be a problem

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazzle
    in fact I use a 250ma regulator on board. 10ma consumed internally by the driver and microprocessor. so it still has about 200ma to be provided externally. LDO is a linear regulator so that's why I limited the recommended load at 90-100ma. just to minimize the excessive heat produced by the LDO chip. But as long as you have a fan the heat shouldn't be a problem
    This fan uses 0.40w at 10,000 RPM...how does that convert out to current draw?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    This fan uses 0.40w at 10,000 RPM...how does that convert out to current draw?
    Watts = Volts x Amps
    so .4 watts / 5 volts = .080A = 80mA

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmitchell13
    Watts = Volts x Amps
    so .4 watts / 5 volts = .080A = 80mA
    I confirm. It can be safely connected to the onboard LDO output.

  31. #31
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    Sweeeet! So just go LDO out to thermostat > to fan, and tie the fan negative into the power source negative!

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmitchell13
    Blowing air into the fins from the rear of the light will work against the air flow while moving.
    Yeah, I guess if one is riding their bike less than 5 miles per hour. Those fans are sooo small and move such a tiny amount of air that I don’t think running it backward would do much at a decent riding speed. Otherwise, turning the fan around such that it is pulling the air out the back of the unit would be more efficient in terms of scavenging spent heat from the unit.
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  33. #33
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    I'm going to start it that way. (I'll test it both ways and see)

    It pushes more air than the other fans of similar size. It's 10,000 RPM and pushes 2.2cfm. I could do one that is almost 2x as deep that pushes 3.5cfm, but I'll see how this works first.

    This'll be long term I think b/c I'm working on finishing the square triple and the single mini...seeing as I just got the MCPCB's in finally.

  34. #34
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    Ed, these may be a better option although 5mm bigger both ways.

    More choices on this page although finding fan specifics there is a little harder, and then yet more options here. At those prices though I'm guessing the fans won't be the most efficient out there. You also get some funky heatsinks to throw on those "cheap" torches you got free at harbor freight

  35. #35
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    Just having a closer look this fan will fit your light using this adaptor Best part is there both ano blue

  36. #36
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    I don't think there's anything wrong with my fan. If it doesn't work...then I'll go from there.

  37. #37
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    When's the first test ride?

    Bet you are stoked to take it for a spin.

  38. #38
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    Caveat...I'm gonna finish the square one first. I got a 332 and 331 last night to do the mini and a triple. I'm going to do some heat testing with 'em. If they do alright, I'm gonna try to pimp them out and take the coinage and order some more boards. I would like to get at least two-three more triple boards depending on how well they work.

    If I don't like the triples, I'm probably going to think about doing some 20mm XP-G singles with the Regina's, a buckpuck and a double-barrel twin hex setup. (or twin round) I don't think quazzle's 331 board will work with a regina reflector b/c I had to notch out the Carclo 20mm optic to fit on there. It's designed more around the 10mm optic.

  39. #39
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    There is also the ledil lxp optic that I will be trying shortly. It is 21mm dia but by resessing the 10mm Led board into the housing the optic holder can be securely mounted to the housing, and not the led board, whilst still being at the correct distance for focus, if all that make sense. Also, to fit over the all in 1 board, parts of the optic holder base can be cut away.

    My theory is that the larger diameter optic will give more/better light, will have to see though

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