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  1. #1
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    XPG-2 binning/tint question

    I am looking to get a 3 up xpg-2 and saw that cutter lists 3 diifferent R5 tints: 1D, 1C, and 3D. what are the differences in these tints?
    Also Led Supply has a 3 up Cree xpg-2 that appears to be on a luxeon star in the pic. Looking to get the brigtest and I'm a little confused.
    thanks in advance,
    Andy

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  3. #3
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    OK, now can anyone explain the chart? maybe just explaining what the two axis are since I am not familiar w/ Cy and Cx.
    TIA
    Andy

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    I have a follow up question. How long must we wait for xpg2 and xpe2 in nice 4-5k neutral bins on 10mm boards. I will never go back to cool 6k+ white. At least the xt-e can be had in neutral and is dirt cheap.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    OK, now can anyone explain the chart? maybe just explaining what the two axis are since I am not familiar w/ Cy and Cx.
    TIA
    Andy
    The options that you have listed i.e. 1D, 1C, and 3D are marked in the little squares on the colour chart to show you what colour tint you will get. You may have to zoom in to see what’s in the square.

    bikerjay

    I have a follow up question. How long must we wait for xpg2 and xpe2 in nice 4-5k neutral bins on 10mm boards. I will never go back to cool 6k+ white. At least the xt-e can be had in neutral and is dirt cheap.
    Me too.

    I love the 2B tint and no longer want that camera flash sort of glare of the cool tints.

    That 3D tint looks quite nice though.
    Last edited by yetibetty; 11-20-2012 at 08:22 AM.

  6. #6
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    Andy - to interpret that chart you need to know 2 things. One is colour temperature (the xxxxK no.s at the top) and the other is tint.

    Cool white is 5000+K and is the usual temp LEDs come in. I don't like it much as the colour rendering (how life like the colours are) is pretty poor and I lose contrast. On the plus side, you get more light out. Neutral white is 4500-5000K and is warmer than CW, similar to mid-morning or early afternoon sun. Colour rendering is much better and contrast is up, at the cost of some light output. Below 4500K is warm white (usually 3000-4000K), which is yellowish and like a halogen bulb. Colour rending doesn't improve over NW and you take a big output hit. People like it for indoors light though.

    Tint refers to other colours in each band. Towards the top the output for a given band will be greener/ yellower, towards the bottom it'll be redder. Ideally you want a tint that's just either side of that dashed line that goes through the centre of the chart. (so 1A or 1D for CW, 3C or 3D for NW, etc.).

    I've only ever used 1A, 1D (CW) and 3C (NW) tints. I absolutely love the 3C tints and I expect that the 3D would be pretty similar. Some people don't really mind though and prefer the higher output of the CW LEDs (eg. you can't get NW XM-Ls higher than T6, whereas CW goes up to U3). For the mix of rocky and woody trails I ride, the NW tint lets me pick out more stuff on the trail (leaves vs. tree root for example), so all my future lights are going to be NW. If you just ride wide open high speed stuff, I doubt you'd notice much difference.

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    Just to add to what matthemuppet has just said I posted this on the "other" forum ages ago.
    It might be of use. Introducing Gloworm X2 - New Dual XM-L LED light system

    No one has the same eyes so take it with a pinch of salt.

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    I know you guys wax lyrical about the warmer tints but I can't honestly tell any difference when a light is in use. Only by side-by-side comparisons can I see one light is more yellowy than another but in terms of how it renders the foliage etc. no way.

    I just want the brightest light possible and 1C usually gives me that.

    yetibetty despairs of me...

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    yeah, everyone's different, that's for sure! To be honest, I was perfectly happy with my main lights until I tried some NW LEDs, now I can't wait to build some new ones with NW LEDs in them. They're more than bright enough, so I can afford to sacrifice some light to get a better view of the trail. Admittedly, it's something I've been more conscious of this autumn which what feels like feet of leaves all over the trails.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post

    yetibetty despairs of me...
    Not wrong there!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I just want the brightest light possible and 1C usually gives me that.
    Those were my exact same thoughts when I started building lights. That means going from halogens to LEDs.That means much smaller and lighter setup. Didn't really care much about the tint as long as it was as bright as possible. But things changed. I tried some neutral XM-Ls and XP-Gs later, and couldn't understand why am I still using those 1B XP-Gs. Then came across 3A XP-Gs and boy are those beautiful. Creamy white color but "only" R3 bin. Then came those 4000K XT-Es in 5D2 tint. Really close to halogen. And you know what? I don't ever wanna build or use a light with CW LEDs. Ever! Those 6000+K LEDs are like wearing black&white night vision goggles in the woods I'd rather add another 18650 and another LED to my setup and make a larger housing, to get enough light than go back to CW.
    Last edited by Toaster79; 11-20-2012 at 11:17 AM.

  12. #12
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    Thanks!

    Thanks for posting the chart that is really helpful!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaddyBikes View Post
    Thanks for posting the chart that is really helpful!
    That's Ok.

    I must have posted that chart at least every couple of months (and the Seoul Semiconductor one). Perhaps the colour charts should be made a sticky.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjay View Post
    I have a follow up question. How long must we wait for xpg2 and xpe2 in nice 4-5k neutral bins on 10mm boards. I will never go back to cool 6k+ white. At least the xt-e can be had in neutral and is dirt cheap.
    Tell me what you need, I have XPG -2 5A3 bins we can put on 10 round or square, these are Z bins or what we call 'white on the line'
    Cheers
    WeLight

    Cutter Electronics Pty Ltd www.cutter.com.au

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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty View Post
    Just to add to what matthemuppet has just said I posted this on the "other" forum ages ago.
    It might be of use. Introducing Gloworm X2 - New Dual XM-L LED light system

    No one has the same eyes so take it with a pinch of salt.
    WOW yeti- can't believe there is that much difference in color between 1c and 2b, they're right next to each other on the color chart!

    my first build used CW xpg's and it's bright but don't like the color much. Was planning on building something in the 3C/4B range for my next one.

    Thanks for posting that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NEstinkyrider View Post
    WOW yeti- can't believe there is that much difference in color between 1c and 2b, they're right next to each other on the color chart!

    my first build used CW xpg's and it's bright but don't like the color much. Was planning on building something in the 3C/4B range for my next one.

    Thanks for posting that.
    There is quite a bit of difference between the two tints but your eyes will self adjust to the difference so it's not so noticable as with the camera shot that was locked.

    If you ride on wet soil or mud you may not notice any difference as this is like tarmac on the road but on gravel or sand coloured trails the difference is quite large.

    This is the difference on paper (literally)

    [IMG]
    From New milling machine arrived on 16/05/2011
    [/IMG]

    Can't get hold of 2b tint anywhere now anyway

  17. #17
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    Because of this thread I just ordered a couple of XML-T6 in 3D, and XML-U2 in 2B just for comparison's sake.

    And a pair of 3up XPG2s in 3D to try and resurrect my 6-up project.

  18. #18
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    This is the difference on paper (literally)
    Ooh! the white one's so nice and bright but next time I'm riding on paper I'll try the 2B

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    The big thing I'm seeing with the warmer tints, is that reflected light off of surfaces (trees, limbs, the ground) aren't nearly as harsh, and should be easier for the eyes to take when riding - am I correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    The big thing I'm seeing with the warmer tints, is that reflected light off of surfaces (trees, limbs, the ground) aren't nearly as harsh, and should be easier for the eyes to take when riding - am I correct?
    Keep in mind that this gif is comparing 4x R5 XP-Gs with 10417 and 3x R4 XT-Es with 9des Satu (same drive current 1300mA). So there's quiet a difference in lumen output.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79 View Post
    Keep in mind that this gif is comparing 4x R5 XP-Gs with 10417 and 3x R4 XT-Es with 9des Satu (same drive current 1300mA). So there's quiet a difference in lumen output.
    Which basically makes your comparison beamshots pointless. In any case your eyes will adjust to what ever light level you have and the camera never sees things the way your eyes do anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    Which basically makes your comparison beamshots pointless. In any case your eyes will adjust to what ever light level you have and the camera never sees things the way your eyes do anyway.
    There is nothing pointless in this comparison, since we're talking about tints and not lumens. Don't mix apples and oranges. And the color in the pictures is quiet accurate. And eyes don't adjust that much when looking at 6500+K and 4000K color temperature of light. If they would, we'd be seeing black and white. These pictures are here to represent color rendition of different tints.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79 View Post
    There is nothing pointless in this comparison, since we're talking about tints and not lumens. Don't mix apples and oranges. And the color in the pictures is quiet accurate. And eyes don't adjust that much when looking at 6500+K and 4000K color temperature of light. If they would, we'd be seeing black and white. These pictures are here to represent color rendition of different tints.
    How can you possibly be assured that your camera has not over or under-exposed one or other of those beamshots and thus affected the colour rendition? Although you are taking about tints you can't ignore the fact that the picture with the whiter tint gives more light and better vision in my opinion, if the beamshot is a true indication of the amount of light.

    You're the one confusing apples with oranges if you don't think the amount of lumens is important in comparing the quality of the light. Your eyes won't react to the different tints so much but they certainly will when switching between those levels of light.

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    Camera is ALWAYS set to manual when shooting beam shots using standard MTBR settings, that's 4s exposure at F4 with white balance set to daylight. So how the heck can camera over expose one picture and underexpose the other? The picture with the white tint gives more light because its a picture of 4up XP-G R5 against 3up XT-E R4. And cool tints always "seem" brighter than warm ones. It's the color rendition we're talking about not the amount of emitted light. The quality of 1800 lumens at 6500K with CRI at about 60 is definitely not better than quality of 1200 lumen 4000K 80+ CRI light. And yes, your eyes will notice the big difference between them. You should try once. All of a sudden the gravel is not only gray, the grass has different shades of green .... And there's far less glare with warmer temperature so you don't get blinded by your own light.

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