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  1. #1
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    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens

    Disclaimer: This post may not be safe for work (NSFW), due to the extreme nature of this light. The light porn displayed throughout this post may be offensive, as the light will be exposed from various angles, as well as in the nude.

    So it’s been a while since I’ve posted a light creation on here, and with daylight savings creeping up around the corner, I thought I’d share the fun once again with my latest creation, which I’ve appropriately named, “WTF”.

    In case you missed my previous light designs, here’s the recap:

    Wall-E: Wall-E - The Dual Ostar Light 2,000 lumens
    Rubix: Rubix - The Quad D-Bin P7 Light 3,600 lumens
    Rubii: Rubii (aka Rubix Dual) – The 8X D-Bin P7 Light 7,200 lumens

    This time around, the weapon of choice is the Luminus SST-90 emitter. I obtained a few SST-90’s on 20mm stars (also known as SSR-90’s), W57S Color, WN Bin from Fred at PhotonFanatic last year. Each emitter is capable of 1,200 lumens max at 3.2 amps, but can handle up to 9 amps. Driver of choice is George’s H6flex driven to 6.6 amps, so looking at Luminus’s datasheets, the output for each emitter should be tad more than 2,150 lumens per emitter.

    But using just one emitter is lame, how about 4? Sign me up biatch!

    Design Phase:
    Once again, I designed the light to use my signature thermostat controlled fan setup, which has proven to work flawlessly for me over the past few years (see my Rubix post for wiring schematic). But this time, the fan is so MASSIVE it needs its own zip code (70mm with 26 CFM capability).

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_1.jpg

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_2.jpg

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_3.jpg

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_4.jpg

    Light Porn - Pictures in the nude (before anodize):
    I discovered from my last several projects about how much I hated machining heat sink fins, so this time I decided to design the light around some old CPU sinks I had - which could be used after having some of the fat trimmed off (i.e. - cut down to size, rounded off, etc.)

    After I gave the heat sink the Jenny Craig treatment, here’s what she looked like:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_5.jpg

    Continuing on with the obscenity - the lower electronics cover and mounting bracket:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_6.jpg

    This wouldn’t be proper porn, if you didn’t get the underside view:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_7.jpg

    Next, WTF’s un-finished face (yes unfinished, I’ll get to that in a minute):
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_8.jpg

    She’s definitely a BBW (Big, Beautiful WTF) – here’s the unfinished body:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_9.jpg

    Test fitment pic (unfinished - still have some machining to complete). But here you get a full body shot while she’s still naked (before anodize):
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_10.jpg

  2. #2
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    So why do I keep saying “un-finished”? Well, I actually had this light 80-90% completed about this time last year (all the stuff you see in the raw above). But then a little something known as ‘life’ got in the way and sidetracked me – putting the project on hold.

    Since I typically bounce design ideas off my buddy, timight (who helps me validate my designs and builds replicas of my stuff), he was able to beat me out of the gate on this one. So the rest of the write-up is sharing the details of his finished WTF light (guy’s got a red fetish).

    WTF fully dressed (finished & anodized):
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_11.jpg

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_12.jpg

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_13.jpg

    I enjoyed the massive throw that the 35mm Fraen lenses provided in Wall-E so much, that I decided to use them in again WTF. I opted to go for two Fraen spots on top, and two mediums on the bottom. The bottom emitters are angled down more aggressively than in Rubix (15° instead of 10°), so that entire light can be angled up - such that the two spots can throw way out, while still maintaining good front spill from the mediums.

    Basically this light is sort of the “Wall-E-meets-Rubix-and-has-an-overgrown-kid-on-steroids”... 4,300 lumens flood EVERYWHERE, and another 4,300 lumens thrown way, way, way out there, way past the balding guy’s receding hair line. Fraen lenses aren’t made in the SST/SSR flavor, so we ninja’d up some MCE versions to fit:

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_14.jpg

    Comparing the light to the original Rubix design (left), just makes you yell out, WTF?!!
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_15.jpg

    WTF mounted up on to my stem faceplate:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_16.jpg

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_17.jpg

  3. #3
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    Beamshots (MTBR Standard Camera Settings):

    By now you’re asking yourself, “How can this be considered good light porn, if the ending doesn’t show some nice beam shots?”

    The first set was taken using MTBR “Standard Camera Settings” on tripod:
    ISO 100, F4, 6 Seconds

    Control shot:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_18.jpg

    H6Flex Level 3 (Low Mode):
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_19.jpg

    H6Flex Level 5 (High Mode):
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_20.jpg

    In the past, I’ve been asked to provide a point of reference, by showing a beamshot from a different ‘known’ light. Well I don’t really have any ‘known’ lights, but seeing as there are lots of XML builds, I decided to include a beamshot of a triple XML light that I have driven at 2.8 amps (approx. 3,000-ish lumens):
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_21.jpg

    Beamshots (MTBR Standard Camera Settings for High Powered Lights):

    And if that wasn’t enough, then here’s another happy ending by way of beamshots taken at the
    MTBR Camera Settings for High Powered Lights:
    ISO 100, F4, 1 Sec

    Control shot:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_22.jpg

    H6Flex Level 3 (Low Mode):
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_23.jpg

    H6Flex Level 5 (High Mode):
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_24.jpg

    And the triple XML light, for comparison:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_web_25.jpg

    I hope you found this write-up amusing, funny, sad, and maybe cried and laughed a little.

    But regarding insane lights, that’s it. I’m done, this is the last one. No more.
    .
    .
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    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    ..
    ...
    ….
    (maybe)

  4. #4
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  5. #5
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    Love it

  6. #6
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    All i say is
    What the f.....


    Now huffy puffy, you have no reason to not make a double cute XML...

  7. #7
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    That was great.

  8. #8
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    holy...

    You must not let this fall into the wrong hands.

  9. #9
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    love those cubes!

  10. #10
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    you, my friend, have a problem

    makes my lights look like guttering candles

  11. #11
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    Absolutely mad! Kudos to you. That is high quality machinework as well, and a gorgeous finish.

    If I'm being picky I think angling the lower lights down has meant the nearfield is a bit bright in relation to the distance, so your eyes will adapt to the brightness and you won't be able to see too far. However the sheer amount of light will burn away anything that might be stupid enough to be in your way so I don't think you've anything to worry about!

    How much does it weigh? Do you notice it?

  12. #12
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    unbelievably amazing
    I'm shocked


  13. #13
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    Another masterpiece. Not my cup of tea, but what a fantastic bit of work!

  14. #14
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    ^^ Thanks for the props, peeps!

    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    you, my friend, have a problem
    Step 1: To admit I have a problem.... lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by mfj197
    If I'm being picky I think angling the lower lights down has meant the nearfield is a bit bright in relation to the distance, so your eyes will adapt to the brightness and you won't be able to see too far. However the sheer amount of light will burn away anything that might be stupid enough to be in your way so I don't think you've anything to worry about!

    How much does it weigh? Do you notice it?
    As you probably already know, beamshots are just representative. In real life your eyes have a much wider range than a picture can produce, and it's not as exaggerated as it looks. In actual use, the foreground isn't as washed out looking and the distant trail is lit up better. Now if I had used spot lenses for the angled emitters instead of the mediums (which throw out really wide), I think you'd be right - eye adjustment would surely be an issue!

    What does it weight? Light weighs around the same as Rubii (Rubix Dual), at around 1.5 pounds. Do I notice it? What kind of silly question is that?

  15. #15
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    do you sell these lights? just asking...

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    Quote Originally Posted by cosmoworks View Post
    What does it weight? Light weighs around the same as Rubii (Rubix Dual), at around 1.5 pounds. Do I notice it? What kind of silly question is that?
    Fair point! :-) Amazing bit of design and build you have done there.


    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

  17. #17
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    .................................................. ..............
    ........ wow freakin` awesome!!
    thanks for sharing cosmo
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  18. #18
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    Ha ha you are 1 sick puppy.

    I really like to see people do this type of thing & I must say what a nice job of building it.

    However the batterys you would need to run it would be huge, I have a 3600 Lumen light with 9 XP-G's in it & have some really good batterys but find I only run it on full on very fast down hill runs,

    It is nice to have the option I guess but I think that having 2 different light systems is a safer way to go as I have often been up around 40+ mph & thought if the light went out now it would really hurt.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  19. #19
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    Yet again Cosmo you come along and make us all drool with absolutely impeccable workmanship.

    WTF?

    "Why The Face"

    Nice work, Me wants one.

  20. #20
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    Incredible!!!!!!!!!!! super nice job!!!!!!!!!

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  21. #21
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    ^^ Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by carspidey
    do you sell these lights? just asking...
    Too much blood sweat and tears to sell these babies.

    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic
    However the batterys you would need to run it would be huge, I have a 3600 Lumen light with 9 XP-G's in it & have some really good batterys but find I only run it on full on very fast down hill runs,
    Not too bad, WTF can get slightly less than 1 hour burn time at full power using the same pack I use on Rubix (10 cell 18650, 96 W-hr). And keep in mind, running it low power mode (L3) makes the LED's ultra efficient - 2,600 lumens for around 6 hour runtime.

    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    "Why The Face"
    More like, "What the Buck!" - well, not quite, but it sure sounds like it.
    Last edited by cosmoworks; 10-24-2011 at 04:51 PM.

  22. #22
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    Nice work cosmoworks.

    Questions: Did you find this on easier to build than your others as it is larger with more room for cutters and less fiddly? was this also done on a manual S2 mill? and does the fan blow air into the heatsink or suck it out?

    Oh and I wish I could do drawings on a computer.

  23. #23
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    this thread is my first venture into any "lights" forum here and i am completely amazed!
    that thing is masterpiece!

    time to start my research for parts!

    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty View Post
    Oh and I wish I could do drawings on a computer.
    have you tried google sketchup? free download, get it, learn it, create CAD drawings!
    use the tutorials to get you started
    Last edited by Der Juicen; 10-11-2011 at 05:18 PM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty View Post
    Questions: Did you find this on easier to build than your others as it is larger with more room for cutters and less fiddly? was this also done on a manual S2 mill? and does the fan blow air into the heatsink or suck it out?
    Pulls air out... and yes, machined on an X2 mill. It wasn't really easier and less fiddly to machine due to size, but bigger did allow for larger diameter endmills, which means more rigidity and less chatter. The single biggest "easier-to-machine" attribute of this light over Rubix, was the fact that I didn't have to machine heatsink fins.

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    Insane. I love it.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by cosmoworks View Post
    Pulls air out... and yes, machined on an X2 mill. It wasn't really easier and less fiddly to machine due to size, but bigger did allow for larger diameter endmills, which means more rigidity and less chatter. The single biggest "easier-to-machine" attribute of this light over Rubix, was the fact that I didn't have to machine heatsink fins.
    Thanks for the reply Cosmo, never accurred to me that you would just scale everything up including cutters.

    Once again, nice work.

    emu26 is your mill ready yet

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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty View Post
    Thanks for the reply Cosmo, never accurred to me that you would just scale everything up including cutters.

    Once again, nice work.

    emu26 is your mill ready yet
    It's a had a "quick" clean over but hasn't been trammed and doesn't have anything to sit on yet, or anywhere to put it for that matter. Off to NZ at the end of the month for 3 days riding for a mates "bucks weekend", had planned to knock up a couple of small lights before then so I don't have to carry my 2 14.8v "bricks" through customs. Having seen this and just learnt that it was done on an x2, I really think I need to extract my digit and start making something.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    It's a had a "quick" clean over but hasn't been trammed and doesn't have anything to sit on yet, or anywhere to put it for that matter. Off to NZ at the end of the month for 3 days riding for a mates "bucks weekend", had planned to knock up a couple of small lights before then so I don't have to carry my 2 14.8v "bricks" through customs. Having seen this and just learnt that it was done on an x2, I really think I need to extract my digit and start making something.
    Were in NZ will you be riding ?
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Were in NZ will you be riding ?
    Just down the highway from you in the land of the smelly egg, better known as Rotovegas or Rotorua if you're looking at a real map

    I'll be taking my racer x and the body armour. The armour is for the luge

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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Just down the highway from you in the land of the smelly egg, better known as Rotovegas or Rotorua if you're looking at a real map

    I'll be taking my racer x and the body armour. The armour is for the luge
    Yes lots of fun over there.

    The redwoods is lots of fun for Night rides, I do a night ride over there the 1st Saturday night of every month.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Just down the highway from you in the land of the smelly egg, better known as Rotovegas or Rotorua if you're looking at a real map

    I'll be taking my racer x and the body armour. The armour is for the luge
    I went to Rotorua when i was travelling in 2004..me and a mate travelled all round the north Island..absolutly loved it
    We stopped at Taupo bungy jump on the way down, which gave me a quick dip in the Waikato River below

    Huka falls...aparently some locals jump in one end in a barrell and fly over the waterfall
    <img src="http://www.zen74279.zen.co.uk/Destinationnz/images/NZ10_JPG.jpg" width="717" height="538">

    Craters of the moon
    <img src="http://www.zen74279.zen.co.uk/Destinationnz/images/NZ12_JPG.jpg" width="717" height="538">

    We also stopped at Rivendell but didnt see Gollum
    <img src="http://www.zen74279.zen.co.uk/Destinationnz/images/NZ4_JPG.jpg" width="717" height="538">

    I imagine mountain biking is fantastic basing that on all the places we visited

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    Yes I have seen a few people kayak over them.


    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    I went to Rotorua when i was travelling in 2004..me and a mate travelled all round the north Island..absolutly loved it
    We stopped at Taupo bungy jump on the way down, which gave me a quick dip in the Waikato River below

    Huka falls...aparently some locals jump in one end in a barrell and fly over the waterfall
    <img src="http://www.zen74279.zen.co.uk/Destinationnz/images/NZ10_JPG.jpg" width="717" height="538">

    Craters of the moon
    <img src="http://www.zen74279.zen.co.uk/Destinationnz/images/NZ12_JPG.jpg" width="717" height="538">

    We also stopped at Rivendell but didnt see Gollum
    <img src="http://www.zen74279.zen.co.uk/Destinationnz/images/NZ4_JPG.jpg" width="717" height="538">

    I imagine mountain biking is fantastic basing that on all the places we visited
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    WTF?

    "Why The Face"
    nice reference...

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    Did you make the stem plate yourself? I really like stem plate mounting lights, but I have no mill to make them on. Are there some stem plates like that commercially available? Otherwise, I was thinking I could put a metal plate in between the stem plate and the stem, and make a mount off of that.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIYtailight View Post
    Did you make the stem plate yourself? I really like stem plate mounting lights, but I have no mill to make them on. Are there some stem plates like that commercially available? Otherwise, I was thinking I could put a metal plate in between the stem plate and the stem, and make a mount off of that.
    Hope made some stem plates for Thomson, Hope and FSA stems: Hope Vision Stem Plate | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    They were designed for Hope lights, but the nice thing is you can get buy the mounting hardware for Hope lights separately (Hope Universal Handlebar Mount | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com) so these stem plates can used with DIY lights.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    Hope made some stem plates for Thomson, Hope and FSA stems: Hope Vision Stem Plate | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    They were designed for Hope lights, but the nice thing is you can get buy the mounting hardware for Hope lights separately (Hope Universal Handlebar Mount | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com) so these stem plates can used with DIY lights.
    Kwarick

    I'm missing something in relation to the second link you posted. I assume that that should be the hadware needed to mount a light to the Hope Stem Plate (your first link), but I don't know why the quick release mount is there.

    Thanks

    Tim

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    It's not night riding when you have the sun on your handlebars!

    Nice work!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat View Post
    Kwarick

    I'm missing something in relation to the second link you posted. I assume that that should be the hadware needed to mount a light to the Hope Stem Plate (your first link), but I don't know why the quick release mount is there.

    Thanks

    Tim
    Yeah, sorry I should of expanded a bit on that. The little 90 degree piece in the lower right corner of the photo of the quick release is something you'll need to adapt the hope stem plate to the bottom mount hole on a light. If you take a look at Easy2led :: DSC_0061.jpg picture by kwarwick - Photobucket you can see how I used that same piece along with a hope helmet mount for my Easy2LED helmet light. For some reason the only way to get that little piece of plastic is part of the complete QR kit.

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    Awesome, thanks for the info!

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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Having seen this and just learnt that it was done on an x2, I really think I need to extract my digit and start making something.
    Emu: I just saw your guy's post about mills (toy or tool). Haven't read the entire post, but I saw some questions about a 6" rotary table. I can confirm a 6" does work, and I use it to build some of my parts (i.e. = stem light mount faceplate, and other non-light-related parts).

    Quote Originally Posted by RTM
    nice reference...
    "I'm the cool dad... that's, that's my thang"

    Quote Originally Posted by DIYtailight
    Did you make the stem plate yourself? I really like stem plate mounting lights, but I have no mill to make them on. Are there some stem plates like that commercially available? Otherwise, I was thinking I could put a metal plate in between the stem plate and the stem, and make a mount off of that.
    Yes. Originally I thought about using an aftermarket (HOPE) plate or designing my plate to use side tabs like the Hope, but then settled on what you see here. The reason being is that I wanted to 'set and forget' the angle of my lights. With the "L" shaped lower mount, it allows me to set the light angle so that when I remove it and reinstall, it's exactly where I left it the last time.

    I never expanded on my stem mount in my original Rubix post, so here's some more X-rated pics.....

    Mount after machining:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_stem_1.jpg

    Original face plate on the left, custom face plate on the right:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_stem_2.jpg

    After anodize:
    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_stem_3.jpg

    It occurred to me, when I was trying to make a second one for my buddy, that I didn't have to go thru all the work of machining another from scratch, and that I could just "bolt" a tab onto the front face:

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_stem_4.jpg

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_stem_5.jpg

    I've since adapted the design to some of my friend's rigs, and we've all standardized on the same mounting system. Here's the same tab adapted to another friend's Race Face stem:

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_stem_7.jpg

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_stem_8.jpg

    I've since modified the design for easier light removal. There's a slot in front now so that the thumb screw doesn't need to be backed completely out to remove the light. The light can't move forward due to the 2 dowel pins that hold them in place. Here's an example of the newer design tab retrofitted onto a Sunline Stem:

    WTF - The Quad SST-90 (SSR-90) Light 8,600 lumens-wtf_stem_6.jpg

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by cosmoworks View Post
    Emu: I just saw your guy's post about mills (toy or tool). Haven't read the entire post, but I saw some questions about a 6" rotary table. I can confirm a 6" does work, and I use it to build some of my parts (i.e. = stem light mount faceplate, and other non-light-related parts).



    "I'm the cool dad... that's, that's my thang"



    Yes. Originally I thought about using an aftermarket (HOPE) plate or designing my plate to use side tabs like the Hope, but then settled on what you see here. The reason being is that I wanted to 'set and forget' the angle of my lights. With the "L" shaped lower mount, it allows me to set the light angle so that when I remove it and reinstall, it's exactly where I left it the last time.

    I never expanded on my stem mount in my original Rubix post, so here's some more X-rated pics.....

    Mount after machining:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Original face plate on the left, custom face plate on the right:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    After anodize:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It occurred to me, when I was trying to make a second one for my buddy, that I didn't have to go thru all the work of machining another from scratch, and that I could just "bolt" a tab onto the front face:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	wtf_stem_4.jpg 
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ID:	646356

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've since adapted the design to some of my friend's rigs, and we've all standardized on the same mounting system. Here's the same tab adapted to another friend's Race Face stem:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've since modified the design for easier light removal. There's a slot in front now so that the thumb screw doesn't need to be backed completely out to remove the light. The light can't move forward due to the 2 dowel pins that hold them in place. Here's an example of the newer design tab retrofitted onto a Sunline Stem:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	wtf_stem_6.jpg 
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ID:	646358

    Your the fkin daddy


    How much time did you put into getting your X2 setup?
    From my experience the SX2 is very inaccurate out of the box and requires some work to get it near perfect..
    I added a back plate to the column to add rigidity and help reduce flex, it also assists in tramming the Y axis. As the head tilts forward on most X2's/SX2's, mine was out by 0.08 of a mm.
    Which doesn't sound a lot, but you notice it when your cutting as the cutter doesn't cut evenly on both edges..
    I can know make some pretty aggressive cuts without the head shaking and the mill screaming..Noooooooo

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by cosmoworks View Post
    I never expanded on my stem mount in my original Rubix post, so here's some more X-rated pics.....
    Cosmo

    Thanks for taking the time to post this. It brings a smile to my face when I read what you've done. And the progression of your stem solution is brilliant.


    Tim

  43. #43
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    I am 110% in love with that custom stem mount. My god that is way to gorgeous to be true and absolutely brilliant at the same time. Kudos!

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    This is really cool! I'm currently in my 4th year of a ME/EE curriculum at college and I'm working on testing and analysis of purely passive heat sink designs and geometry which makes me pretty interested in seeing any FEA you've done on this?

    I worked with Luminus to get some SSR-90 samples for my project, and we found that about 1500 lumens (our control) were running about 5.2A on the Q4 emitters which gives us about 18W to work with in dissipating.

    Now your running 4 of these bad boys, so at 5A your looking at close to 70W of heat dissipation. Did you do any computer modeling of your setup? and what is the junction temp goal for your design approximately?

    Very cool and absolutely impeccable fit and finish! I wish I had enough time in my studies to get sidetracked with something like this lol - its hard having access to all the machines you could ever need, but no time to use them...

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    How much time did you put into getting your X2 setup?
    From my experience the SX2 is very inaccurate out of the box and requires some work to get it near perfect..
    I added a back plate to the column to add rigidity and help reduce flex, it also assists in tramming the Y axis. As the head tilts forward on most X2's/SX2's, mine was out by 0.08 of a mm.
    Which doesn't sound a lot, but you notice it when your cutting as the cutter doesn't cut evenly on both edges..
    I can know make some pretty aggressive cuts without the head shaking and the mill screaming..Noooooooo
    I can't remember exactly since it's been several years, but I'd guess it took maybe an hour to tram everything in and shim the head straight? I never did that back plate mod you did, since mine doesn't seem to move even when i cut extremely agressive cuts. I find now that it's easiest to just align by making fly cuts with my 3" cutter and then adjusting, rather than doing the same with the dial indicator.

    Quote Originally Posted by mobile chernobyl
    This is really cool! I'm currently in my 4th year of a ME/EE curriculum at college and I'm working on testing and analysis of purely passive heat sink designs and geometry which makes me pretty interested in seeing any FEA you've done on this?

    I worked with Luminus to get some SSR-90 samples for my project, and we found that about 1500 lumens (our control) were running about 5.2A on the Q4 emitters which gives us about 18W to work with in dissipating.

    Now your running 4 of these bad boys, so at 5A your looking at close to 70W of heat dissipation. Did you do any computer modeling of your setup? and what is the junction temp goal for your design approximately?

    Very cool and absolutely impeccable fit and finish! I wish I had enough time in my studies to get sidetracked with something like this lol - its hard having access to all the machines you could ever need, but no time to use them...
    Yes, the light was designed via computer modeling, but no, I didn't run any thermal FEA on the models. A single SST-90 is around 3.4V at 6.6amp draw, so four of them makes a total Vf of 13.6V. At 6.6 amps, this light is around 90 Watts power consumption (not factoring in driver efficiency).

    This light is only run full power on the downs and low power on climbs, but even on low it's still 2,600 lumens . I hear you regarding time though... I own my machines, yet finding the time to create more insanity is scarce at best.

  46. #46
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    I am not very knowledgeable with DIY lights, so excuse me if this is a stupid question. But is there any way that a light like this could even be used on a bike? It seems like you would need a massive battery to actually power it in almost any of the settings for more than 30 minutes of so.
    2013 Santa Cruz TRc 650b
    2015 Lynskey Cooper CX
    2010 Soma Groove
    1987 Haro RS1

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith View Post
    I am not very knowledgeable with DIY lights, so excuse me if this is a stupid question. But is there any way that a light like this could even be used on a bike? It seems like you would need a massive battery to actually power it in almost any of the settings for more than 30 minutes of so.
    Yes Having many years of engineering under my belt, My hat goes off to the high level of build & the because I can factor.

    However its like going shopping in a monster truck,sure you could do it but it is far from being the best setup most could have for night riding.

    The power drain at full power is huge & only running it that high for the fast down hills is not the best way to get your eyes working & running a super powerfull light diped way down is not either.

    This light will have a whiter beam & a longer beam etc but as far as riding fast it would offer little more than a good 2000 lm light & IMO you wouldn't be able to ride any faster with this light, In fact taking battery weight & the fact that a helmet light will always shine were you are looking I would think you would be slower than a good setup that has approx 1/3 of the power.

    Just my 2 c
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljsmith
    I am not very knowledgeable with DIY lights, so excuse me if this is a stupid question. But is there any way that a light like this could even be used on a bike? It seems like you would need a massive battery to actually power it in almost any of the settings for more than 30 minutes of so.
    Not only can it be used, it IS being used.

    Low power setting (L3) is somewhere around 13-15 watts of power consumption. The 10 cell packs we normally use are 96 watt-hr capacity, so runtime is somewhere around the 6 hour range in L3, slightly less than an hour on L5 (max power). What takes us an hour to climb usually takes around 5 minutes to descend. So typical use on a ride would be 1-1.5 hours on L3 and 5-10 minutes on L5. And only short bursts of L5 on shuttled DH runs.

  49. #49
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    I dig this light setup. Would you be willing to post up some parasolid files or STEP / IGES of the mechanical design? Do you have a BOM of the parts? I'm interested in building something like this and I've got access to all the tools.

  50. #50
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    Oh man... I've been through all your previous light build posts I could find here. I copied and pasted all the tech into a google document for further review. I'm hooked and this is going to cost me some time and money! However, it will be a great addition to rides in the Santa Monica mountains. You sir, own the night!

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