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  1. #1
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    Wonder if this would work for modding?

    $46.54 SolarStorm X2 Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 2000-Lumen LED Bicycle Bike Light - black / 4*18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

    Fairly low profile 2 U2XML light.
    I wonder if it would be worthwhile opening it up, throwing out the driver and switch and installing an L-flex with a waterproof momentary switch.

    I'm not sure if the DrJones driver will work with 2 XMLs?

    Probably need to throw out the batteries too, or at least use this as a b-pack.

  2. #2
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    For someone without a mill or lathe (me) it looks interesting. Considering what I spent to get parts and pieces from multiple sources with shipping etc. to try and build up an easy2led housing. Could always get the pink ("red") one and save 8 bucks if you have the ability to re-anodize it. Although I have no idea what it costs for at home anodizing once you are already setup. Or strip the anodize off and polish it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fourtrax View Post
    For someone without a mill or lathe (me) it looks interesting
    +1 on this though many have built nice light housings with little more than a drill, hacksaw, and some files.

  4. #4
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    Be interesting to see what's inside there when you remove the screws on the back plate.
    Wonder if there's room for a master/slave pair of Mobydrv drivers?

    (Don't remember how these are set up)

  5. #5
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    Here... I've posted a question on their forum about the possibility of modding.

    The replies:

    Suitable for modding?: FastTech Forums

  6. #6
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    I'd seen that, but it only shows the front cover off, not the back.

  7. #7
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    doesn't look too bad actually. Neat looking cable connector too. I'd imagine there'd be enough space for a DrJones master>slave set up, with one board under the switch and one under the cable gland. No way of knowing for sure without checking it out in person though.

    Master slave set ups are pretty easy - get a DrJones mobydrv driver and a cheap driver with matching current ($3-4 from Fasttech), cut the Vdd trace from the MCU on the cheap board (or remove the MCU if you want), then solder a wire from the DrJones board Vdd trace to a Vdd pin on the slave board. Solder up all the other wires as you would for a single light and you're good to go. You're essentially running two independent LED/ driver combinations and using one MCU to control both.

    Or, if you aren't planning on going gonzo on the output, you could add extra chips to the DrJones board and run the LEDs in parallel.

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