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Very Easy XM-L Build

64K views 293 replies 56 participants last post by  plugp7 
#1 · (Edited)
Just sharing what I've picked up from reading in this forum. Thanks to everyone for sharing their ideas!!

Object of this build is:
1) Make it as easy as possible so that anyone can do it.
2) Use very little power tools, so no cutting / gluing of metal.
3) To run the XM-L at high power from two to four hrs.
4) Use as little of this $$$ as possible!

The Parts
Led Supply dot com
XM-L Cool White - $10.05
Optics Carclo 20mm - Plain Tight Lens for helmet / Medium Ripple Lens on bar - $1.25ea
Optic holder - $0.23

Deal Extreme (DX)(Free Shipping)
LED Driver sku#57779 - $5
TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Battery (2500mAh 2-Pack Blue) sku #5790 - $7.99 (if you want to save you can use rechargable AA 8 min. good for ~2hrs but not as bright as using four 18650s).
14.8V 4 x 18650 Battery Holder Case Box with Leads sku#103855 - $2.80
Universal Adjustable Bicycle Mount for Flashlights (2cm~4cm Diameter) sku#31871 - $2.39
Clicky Switch for Flashlights (17.8mm 5-Pack) sku#5602 - $1.90
JST Cables (10-Pair) SKU#15234 - $2.78

Westburne Electrical Supply (Pricing in CDN$)
1 - 3/4 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING - $5.52
2 - CUP-2 KILLARK 3/4" CLOSE-UP PLUG - $1.95
1 - R32 KILLARK CONDULET - $2.30

Total comes to $52.17
If you have your own batteries - $33.37
Less if you have your own wires and switches.

The Build
Here is a pictures of most of the parts


1 - Mark out the holes you need to drill through the heat sink (cup 2 close plug) and drill.


2 - Using a soldering iron, solder the wires to the Led and paste it to the heat sink. ( I used Fujik compond that I got from DX working on other projects).Make sure to press down so that the Led is in good contact with the heat sink. You can use the optic holder and screw the R32 down on top of them. Note: I shaved off the tabs on the optic holder that hold down the optics, the R32 will hold it down for you.



3 - Now solder the Led wires to the Led Driver. Remember to use some heat shrink to cover the expose wires.


4 - The opening of the body (3/4 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING) is big enough for the driver to fit through.


5 - Take the second Cup 2 Close Plug and drill a hole through the middle. Make sure the hole is the same size or a bit larger as the wires you're using for the battery. After this no other power tool is needed. As you can see I have two sets of wires, one for the battery, the other for the remote switch.


6 - Push the wires through the second Cup 2 Close Plug and solder it to the Led Driver. Positive goes in the middle, negative around the edge. I used some heat shrink and a zip tie a cable strain. As you can see I've already screwed on the light head to the body


7 - Before closing it up, test to see if it's working!


8 - Once it's working, close it up by holding the power / switch wire steady and rotate the Cup 2 Close Plug into the body. Make sure the wires are not rotating also!! You should be able to have the Close Plug flush with the end of the body. When it's done you'll be holding this in your hands.
**There could be a small chance that the soldered points may make contact with inside the light body creating a short. You can wrap it with electrical tape or thermal paste the yellow metal thingy to the inside to secure it. Thanks to "slcpunk".for pointing this out.


9 - Sit back and have a cold one!!

10 - Wait for the darkness to arrive!! Then go out and ride!!

I have used clear RTV Silicone to seal the seams from water especially the back where the power wires are, fill it up with silicone. I'll be using a 30mm lens to cover the front and seal it the same way. All my wire conx are sealed the same way.

Water proofing accessories for the batteries.


The light on my bar and remote switch.



Beam shots


Outside
Camera set to manual
ISO 200
Shutter 4s
WB - Daylight
Jpeg
No post processing
Fence is about 50 feet away.

No Lights "Duh"


Wide on bar "High"


Wide on bar "Low"


Spot on helmet "High"


Spot on helmet "Low"


Both "High"


Both "Low"


Some other info
Weight - .095lbs according to the scale in the cafe at the place of work.
Been riding for close to two hrs at night and running at high and body only slightly warm to the touch. Lights up the trail pretty darn good!
Don't know what lumens it's producing, I'm guessing around 900? I know XM-L's produces over 1000, I'm happy with 900 hopefully.
Ordering from DX was easy and took about 1 1/2 wks to arrive from the time of odering. Led Supply was much quicker, but then they are only in the US.

Sorry no trail shots, to much of a hasle to bring camera, tripod etc. One of these days, maybe.

Well hope this help anyone looking for an easy DIY light build with little power tools needed. Everything just screws right in!

UPDATE:
Adding this video on how these lights work on the trail. Sorry but the GoPro does not work very well in low light. But well enough when the lights are on high. Enojoy.


Update:

Do you guys wish this build could be a little lighter and smaller? I would also say easier, but this is about as easiest as it gets.

Well you're in luck! Cause meet XM-L's little cozin..."XM-L2"



They are about the same in length but the new body has a smaller diameter.




It weights less too!! I assuming it'll weight in at around 81g with driver, optics, emitter and wires in place.

I'm going to be using XM-L2 emitters with AMC7135 3.0A driver on this new build.

Will I really see a difference in light output between a 2.8A and a 3.0A driver?

Anyways here is the info you'll need if you want the smaller body.
Mainbody is 1/2 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING $5.00
Optic holder is R-21 $1.83
Heat sink is CUP-1 KILLARK 1/2" CLOSE-UP PLUG $1.60

To close up the back end, I'll use one of the sliding door thingy with a cable gland through it.
 
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#167 ·
I use the Marwi mounts and I found these aluminum rods which fit perfectly. They have male end and female end. Found them at local hardware store in drawer marked "screen door" parts. I then just drilled hole in middle of rod and in coupler and mounted with screw.

As for equipment, I cut off the coupler and plugs with a lathe, but it could be done easily with a course toothed hacksaw and then the cut trued with aluminum file (a great and useful tool).
I held the pieces easily by screwing them onto a steel pipe.

Took the light for it's first ride last nite and it did great. In the 40's and just got a little warm to the touch. I have built several lights including using the Easy2LED units and this is much easier to work with, cheaper,.just as light, and more room to work in. . It is very nice not to do the soldering in a hole. The moveable heat sink is great!
 

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#169 ·
Nice looking light roxtar but I would be really careful trying to fly anywhere with that thing. DId someone say pipe b0mb?

I flew to NZ last year for a couple of days of riding with a large group of mates. On the way home we are sitting in Rotorua airport waiting to board and my name gets called out to come to security. Whilst they knew I had a bike bag they didn't like the profile the xray returned of my luggage bag that contained my batteries and all of the leads. Once I confirmed that it was what they expected, batteries for my bike lights, and emptied my luggage to show them there was no problem and they were very relaxed about it all.
 
#172 ·
Battery /Wire choice

I am a weight weenie so am going for the most simple setup that is cheap to make. For helmet lights I use one Li-Ion 18650 3.6v battery (yes it is rechargeable) which gives me about an hour on high (2800ma) and more than three hours on medium (800ma). I carry a spare battery to use if needed. The photo shows battery prior to being coated with Plasti Dip.

For Bar light use same setup but have a 2 battery pack. The combo gives me plenty of light.
In fact when I get back to the vehicle the truck lights look dim by comparison.

The connectors are MS connectors and can be found on DX. I get the ones with the split connector as this lets me do an extra battery.
 

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#174 ·
I am a weight weenie so am going for the most simple setup that is cheap to make. For helmet lights I use one Li-Ion 18650 3.6v battery (yes it is rechargeable) which gives me about an hour on high (2800ma) and more than three hours on medium (800ma). I carry a spare battery to use if needed. The photo shows battery prior to being coated with Plasti Dip.

For Bar light use same setup but have a 2 battery pack. The combo gives me plenty of light.
In fact when I get back to the vehicle the truck lights look dim by comparison.

The connectors are MS connectors and can be found on DX. I get the ones with the split connector as this lets me do an extra battery.
Thanks my friend. Just what I needed.

Nice and simple... easy on the head and a spare could be switched out easily. I guess it depends on light output. Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?
 
#173 ·
mfos - Love your helmet battery. Makes perfect sense to keep it lightweight. I assume you are soldering the leads onto the batteries. Any issues w/ doing this? I have heard others say this isn't an issue w/ a decent powered solder station, just wondering if you have any tips. Thanks.
 
#175 ·
mfos - Love your helmet battery. Makes perfect sense to keep it lightweight. I assume you are soldering the leads onto the batteries. Any issues w/ doing this? I have heard others say this isn't an issue w/ a decent powered solder station, just wondering if you have any tips. Thanks.
Not a problem ANDY13. Just work quickly and of course use eye protection.

Nice and simple... easy on the head and a spare could be switched out easily. I guess it depends on light output. Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?
TJWilly - Others would be much more knowledgeable than me about this but it is my understanding that brightness is a determined more by amperage than voltage which is determined by settings in the driver. One LED drawing 2800ma uses one battery faster than two.....etc. Lots of good expert discussions here on that on these forums. My driver only supports 3.6v (charged to 4.2v) and a high setting drawing 2800ma., so I keep it simple.
 
#179 ·
TJWilly - Others would be much more knowledgeable than me about this but it is my understanding that brightness is a determined more by amperage than voltage which is determined by settings in the driver. One LED drawing 2800ma uses one battery faster than two.....etc. Lots of good expert discussions here on that on these forums. My driver only supports 3.6v (charged to 4.2v) and a high setting drawing 2800ma., so I keep it simple.
If you use a 2S1P pack with the driver that mfos is using, you'll burn it out as it can only have an input voltage of 3.7V (4.2v fully charged). The number of batteries you use will depend on the driver you use. The driver I use in this build will take anywhere from 6v - 18v.

So if you use a 2S1P with this build, you'll get about 2hrs run time on high. Using a 4S1P will double that, give or take.

If you want the light to be brighter, that'll depend on the drivers output. A driver with a 3000mA output will be brighter that one that only has a 2000mA output. The driver on this build was measured by machine and it puts out about 2300mA, which is more than enough for me.
Thanks guys. I understand now. :)
 
#177 ·
Had some time over the weekend, I didn't do any biking so I build a couple more lights. This time I ended up using some parts I didn't use in the original build. I replace the Cup 2 slug at the bottom with the sliding closet door thingy that's on page one with a cable gland through it.



Basically I drilled a 1/2" hole into the closet door thing so that the cable gland would fit through it. Sanded out some of the retaining nut from the gland so it would fit inside the depression of the closet thingy. Lock the gland into place and place it into the light body. You'll have to lighty hammer out some of the closet thingy sides to make it stay in place. Everything else is the same.

These were parts I had that I couldn't use on my first build. I wanted to put the cable gland through the Cup 2 but was too thick. I would have to cut the Cup 2 but can't seem to find my hacksaw!

The cable gland was bought from DX, 10 pack was about $5.

It's great to see the different ideas people come up with, with this build. Great Job!
 
#181 ·
I was thinking of selling them at first. But after looking at some options from overseas, it would not be in my best interest to do so. I'll most likely loose time / money in the end. Which is why I just laid it all out for everyone to build their own.
 
#183 ·
Yay for chinas ability to demotivate the little guy:) for once it helped.

Im pretty thankfull you posted the build. Got the ball rolling for me to get my feet wet.

If your ever near collingwood or owensound, let me know. We can gonfor a ride.
Wasn't really demotivated. Just wasn't worth my time selling. For me to sell these say for around $100 + shipping, you can get some nice lights at that price from Action LED or GloWorm.

Glad everyone that has tried this build has been successful so far. The hardest part is waiting for parts to arrive from DX!

I'll let you know if and when I'll be in Collingwood, may not be for another six months bike wise. Time to get my snowboard out!

Hmmm...night snowboarding?
 
#184 ·
[B]Panasonic 18650 update[B\]

I got some quality brand cells (Panasonic 3100mah protected 18650) from DX. I learn that these are real Panasonic's cell which another company then installs the PCB on them. This info can be found here .

I only test the run times on high and the results are:

4 cells - 4.75hrs
3 cells - 3hrs 50mins

Test was done in front of a fan running on medium and light body was cool to the touch.

Sorry no test for 2 cells, I do not have a 2 cell battery holder. But I would say you'll get a little over 2hrs run time on them. Overall not bad.

Is it worth the extra price? That's up to you.

4 x Panasonic 3100mah cells = $35.20 (4.75hrs run time)
4 x Trustfire 2500mah cells = $13.88 (3.5hrs run time, rounded up)
Difference = $21.32 (1.25hrs)

With the driver I use for this build only pushing out ~2300ma I would likely stay with the Trustfire cells. If the driver was pushing out ~2500 - 3000ma I would go with the Panasonic cells for the longer run times.

Future test: Taskled driver, sometime next year. Maybe!
 
#186 ·
Has anyone found a good USA source for 18650s that are reasonably priced? Reading about an issue with China and airfreight with Li-Ion batteries may mean a delay???? (this was in the other light forum about BAK batteries)

I ordered stuff from DX over 3 weeks ago and still hasn't showed up..... hopefully before Christmas so I can tinker on my first light. (driver and switch) Can't imagine how much more of a delay with the Li-Ion news.....

I haven't ordered any battery components and won't until I have a driver in hand, just incase it doesn't show up! Darn- I should have ordered the batteries 3 weeks ago with the rest:madman:
 
#187 ·
Has anyone found a good USA source for 18650s that are reasonably priced? Reading about an issue with China and airfreight with Li-Ion batteries may mean a delay???? (this was in the other light forum about BAK batteries)
I got these sources from another thread here. I haven't purchased from them since I'm currently well-stocked on DX batteries, but may get a couple Panasonics in the near future.

2 Panasonic 3100s for $19 seems decent, with free shipping:
New 2X Panasonic 18650 3 6V 3100mAh Rechargeable Li ion Battery 2 NCR Batteries | eBay

(^^There is a link to the protected version of these cells in the ad.)

Lower prices here, even with shipping, and there are options for higher or lower capacities:
ONLY BATTERY ORDERS for YOUR BLF US-BASED BATTERY SUPPLIER | BudgetLightForum.com
 
#191 ·
Deal extreme is a joke, I highly recommend you find another source. I ordered parts from them and the envelope was stuffed so full that it tore open before landing in my mail box. I lost over 40 in inventory and they want me to ask the USPS for compensation. Then the USPS is blaming the envelope being too full. Its a huge circle jerk and I'm at the back, I'm taking my business elsewhere. On a side note, OP thanks for the sweet post. Its posts like this that make mtbr enjoyable.
 
#193 ·
Pucked, if we needed to we should organize a big US order some time and get one of our buddies to ship it over to Ontario. We could do Cateye mounts, DigiKey battery holders, BLF batteries...
I've had to find various solutions over the years.

I wish someone like Zemike could put things like this on his online store, so at least we could order from one place.
 
#197 ·
You could run them that way, you'll have to wire up the two leds together. Is the purpose to use only one battery pack? If so, it may be easier to build two sets of lights, each with it's own driver and get the Y adapter so you can run both lights with only one battery pack. I use this when I ride with 2 lights on my bars.

Does the DX driver in this build have temp sensing capability?
I don't think the DX driver has that feature, but I could be wrong.
 
#199 ·
Hey everyone... I finished my build a few days ago. Finally got to ride tonight.

I am impressed.

My observations:

1. One 2400mah battery gave me 40 something mins on high before the lamp dropped to low which is hardly usable.
2. I used the 20mm Carlco 12.4° optics. I find with my build this to be really nice at throwing light on the trail, however, I could still use more of a spot.
3. This is the driver I am using: https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc7135-304a-selectable-mode-driver-p-142.html
4. For power, I have the blue UltraFire 2400mah batts. (sourced from Amazon.com)
5. My build is 4oz with out batteries. My (new) 3 battery pack weighs 5.5oz with a longer cable to stash in the pack.

I used this light only. No bar light or anything else and I could ride our tight single track with zero visibility issues. (I brought a spare battery pack (a single) and switched to it along the way.) But my little light seems better suited on a bar.

If I ever find my battery charger for the Nikon 3100, I'll take some proper beam pics.

Can y'all make any recommendations to help me get a better spot out of this light?

Thanks.

Pics:







Cut an old tube to wrap the batteries.


Once I get a lathe, I would turn down and face off the conduit to improve appearance. Maybe shorten the rear plug a bit.
 
#200 ·
Can y'all make any recommendations to help me get a better spot out of this light?
If you have room (depth) for a Regina reflector, it may tighten it up some. My experience with Carclo optics is they always seem to have more flood than the spec's would indicate. The Regina is 20mm diameter so that should fit. It is deeper than the Carclo by a bit and you will need a cover for it adding another mm or so.
 
#203 ·
Mini by hacksaw

So I found the 3/4" coupling to be a perfect snug fit in the Park steerer tube cutting guide. Using the guide I was able to make a good square cut on the coupling. I then threaded a cup-2 plug part way into the coupling and cut off two-ish threads of the cup-2. The cup-2 is difficult to cut square with a hacksaw...

I used the small half(?) of the cup-2 to plug the back and the large piece for the heat sink.

I use the 2.8 amp driver from EL34. The Anderson Powerpole connectors, switch and Marwi mounts were also purchased from EL34. No two month wait here. Thanks EL34!

LED and optics are same as OP.
 

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#204 ·
so i found the 3/4" coupling to be a perfect snug fit in the park steerer tube cutting guide. Using the guide i was able to make a good square cut on the coupling. I then threaded a cup-2 plug part way into the coupling and cut off two-ish threads of the cup-2. The cup-2 is difficult to cut square with a hacksaw...

I used the small half(?) of the cup-2 to plug the back and the large piece for the heat sink.

I use the 2.8 amp driver from el34. The anderson powerpole connectors, switch and marwi mounts were also purchased from el34. No two month wait here. Thanks el34!

Led and optics are same as op.
genius!
 
#208 ·
TJWilly,

Yes, the battery is a 1s2p 5200mah that I purchased from batteryspace. I installed the powerpoles and then dunked the pack in Plasti-Dip.

The Powerpoles have a not so firm connection. There exists retention clips that I feel should be used when mountain biking.

My wife has one of EL34's converted Marwi lights. I decided to use the Powerpoles and the driver he sells because I could use the wife's charger and the batteries would also be interchangeable. The Powerpoles are also inexpensive and easy to work with.

Here is EL34's info for the Powerpole.
LED Bike Lights 27

I have some Arctic paste but on this light I used HexaTherm from Ledsupply.
HexaTherm Tape - LED Supply.com
I don't know how good this stuff is but I plan to find out.

The cable gland is a pg7.

Yes, the white piece on the mount is made from a thick plastic cutting board. Cut a shallow groove in the side that touches the light which gives the light a track to lay in thereby discouraging unwanted side-to-side movement.

If you make a o-ring mount, please post some pics!
 
#209 ·
zarni,

I used a spent tube (29er) to wrap my batteries in as it was less expensive but the plastidip looks good. The dip I have used in the past seem to have poor consistency. Which brand did you use?

Thanks for the info on the powerpoles. These clips, do they not come with the connectors? I'll check out that link.

Will do on the pics!

Thanks,
Phil
 
#210 ·
got my drivers from DX - just need to order the LED from somewhere else. (OP's shop does not ship to the UK I don't think)

I have never heard of these batteries you guys are using... when I hear about lipos, I think of the ones I use for my rc helis - those 3cell lipos (11.1v).. can I use them? the ones you're all linking look like pen-cell batteries (AA)
 
#211 ·
TJ,

The Plasti-Dip I used is Performix brand. I've been happy with the couple batteries I have coated.

No, the retention clips are not included with the Powerpoles. EL34 included one with the light that I bought from him. I'm not sure if he sells them. I have not seen them on his web store.

Powerpoles are used in many applications and most would not require these clips.
Road riding is fine without the retention clips but I would feel safer using them while riding singletrack.

The part # seems to be 110G68.
 
#213 ·
TJ,

The Plasti-Dip I used is Performix brand. I've been happy with the couple batteries I have coated.

No, the retention clips are not included with the Powerpoles. EL34 included one with the light that I bought from him. I'm not sure if he sells them. I have not seen them on his web store.

Powerpoles are used in many applications and most would not require these clips.
Road riding is fine without the retention clips but I would feel safer using them while riding singletrack.

The part # seems to be 110G68.
Got it. Thanks for the info and the part #.
 
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