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  1. #151
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    DX has sold out out of the driver - do you know of any alternatives?
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on it's way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    DX has sold out out of the driver - do you know of any alternatives?
    See page 3, post# 52
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  3. #153
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    Hey awesome! Thank you!

    Can I get all the parts from DX? Instead of different places especially the LED?
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on it's way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    Hey awesome! Thank you!

    Can I get all the parts from DX? Instead of different places especially the LED?
    You can get all the electronic parts from DX as well as the LED. But the parts for the housing can not be bought at DX so use the two companies from page 1.
    "By Your Command"

  5. #155
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    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Very Easy XM-L Build-img_0133.jpg  

    Very Easy XM-L Build-img_0134.jpg  


  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    You can get all the electronic parts from DX as well as the LED. But the parts for the housing can not be bought at DX so use the two companies from page 1.
    Thanks. Any chance of a link? I know nothing about LEDs - or is there a specific model/type/spec I should be looking for?
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on it's way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.
    That looks neat!
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on it's way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.
    Nice job.
    By making it that compact you may be able to attach the mounting to the rear cap. That way you can mount it toward the front of your helmet, pointing straight out, similar to some of the Niterider models.
    This would keep everything nice and low.
    Last edited by roxtar; 11-28-2012 at 08:02 AM.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.

    Nice! I wish I had the gear to cut grooves into the coupler.

    Give us an update when it's all done.
    "By Your Command"

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    Thanks. Any chance of a link? I know nothing about LEDs - or is there a specific model/type/spec I should be looking for?
    I don't have any links on DX for the LEDs as I did not get mine from there. If you want to get your LEDs from DX, I would stick with XM-L Leds.
    "By Your Command"

  11. #161
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  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.
    I planned on doing something similar. I figured I would use a plastic rear plug, too (cuz the aluminum ones are so expensive) and was thinking of cutting the grooves. I have a wood lathe with a crappy cross-slide, and I think I can cut grooves. I didn't think about shortening the whole thing, but my aluminum parts aren't here yet to play with. How cramped is it with 1/2 the body length?
    I ordered it all from Zorotools, and it shouyld be here today or tomorrow. I have all the electronic parts.

  13. #163
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    Thank you! I'm on my way!
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on it's way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    Thank you! I'm on my way!
    Keep in mind, many are looking for ways to cut out DX, not add to what they get from them.
    Shipping times from DX average about 2-3 weeks in my experience. That's the cost for their prices
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  15. #165
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    Continued build

    Here is the completed build. Plenty of room for switch and wires so I ran the battery wire thru the bottom as the only switch I had was moderately large and it was easier to just mount it in the back plastic cap. Notice that I cut down both the threads and back of the cap. Completed unit without battery weighs 80 grams. I used EL134's driver which is simple small,cheap, and which I have set for 3 modes.
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  16. #166
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    Nice!

    What did you use to mount it to your helmet strap?

    Also, what did you use to cut the parts? Table saw? Ban saw?
    "By Your Command"

  17. #167
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    I use the Marwi mounts and I found these aluminum rods which fit perfectly. They have male end and female end. Found them at local hardware store in drawer marked "screen door" parts. I then just drilled hole in middle of rod and in coupler and mounted with screw.

    As for equipment, I cut off the coupler and plugs with a lathe, but it could be done easily with a course toothed hacksaw and then the cut trued with aluminum file (a great and useful tool).
    I held the pieces easily by screwing them onto a steel pipe.

    Took the light for it's first ride last nite and it did great. In the 40's and just got a little warm to the touch. I have built several lights including using the Easy2LED units and this is much easier to work with, cheaper,.just as light, and more room to work in. . It is very nice not to do the soldering in a hole. The moveable heat sink is great!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Very Easy XM-L Build-img_0138.jpg  


  18. #168
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    Just finished mine:



    I machined a different body to work with my replay camera mount.

    Thanks again, pucked
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  19. #169
    help with the zip please
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    Nice looking light roxtar but I would be really careful trying to fly anywhere with that thing. DId someone say pipe b0mb?

    I flew to NZ last year for a couple of days of riding with a large group of mates. On the way home we are sitting in Rotorua airport waiting to board and my name gets called out to come to security. Whilst they knew I had a bike bag they didn't like the profile the xray returned of my luggage bag that contained my batteries and all of the leads. Once I confirmed that it was what they expected, batteries for my bike lights, and emptied my luggage to show them there was no problem and they were very relaxed about it all.

  20. #170
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    Would this be a good switch for this project?
    Component - Switch: switch with 13.2V regulator & LED Indicator for HID Bike-lighting (1' long)

    Also, is the Trailtech connector shown here the same as the Magicshine shown here?
    Action-LED-Lights — 1m Extension Cable
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    Here is the completed build. Plenty of room for switch and wires so I ran the battery wire thru the bottom as the only switch I had was moderately large and it was easier to just mount it in the back plastic cap. Notice that I cut down both the threads and back of the cap. Completed unit without battery weighs 80 grams. I used EL134's driver which is simple small,cheap, and which I have set for 3 modes.
    First off, awesome write-up phucked. Thanks!

    mfos - Nice play on the design. I am interested in your power modifications. First off, what battery you are using and the wiring choice. I assume that battery is rechargeable? What is it and what time do you get on high power? I like that style of plug. I thought about using SAE but your choice is smaller. What did you use?

    I liked phucked's idea of 4 batts but would prefer a more weather tight/durable case for the batteries since I tend to fall from time to time retaining the ability to charge of course.

    Pretty new to the battery thing and could use some direction.

  22. #172
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    Battery /Wire choice

    I am a weight weenie so am going for the most simple setup that is cheap to make. For helmet lights I use one Li-Ion 18650 3.6v battery (yes it is rechargeable) which gives me about an hour on high (2800ma) and more than three hours on medium (800ma). I carry a spare battery to use if needed. The photo shows battery prior to being coated with Plasti Dip.

    For Bar light use same setup but have a 2 battery pack. The combo gives me plenty of light.
    In fact when I get back to the vehicle the truck lights look dim by comparison.

    The connectors are MS connectors and can be found on DX. I get the ones with the split connector as this lets me do an extra battery.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Very Easy XM-L Build-img_0139.jpg  


  23. #173
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    mfos - Love your helmet battery. Makes perfect sense to keep it lightweight. I assume you are soldering the leads onto the batteries. Any issues w/ doing this? I have heard others say this isn't an issue w/ a decent powered solder station, just wondering if you have any tips. Thanks.

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    I am a weight weenie so am going for the most simple setup that is cheap to make. For helmet lights I use one Li-Ion 18650 3.6v battery (yes it is rechargeable) which gives me about an hour on high (2800ma) and more than three hours on medium (800ma). I carry a spare battery to use if needed. The photo shows battery prior to being coated with Plasti Dip.

    For Bar light use same setup but have a 2 battery pack. The combo gives me plenty of light.
    In fact when I get back to the vehicle the truck lights look dim by comparison.

    The connectors are MS connectors and can be found on DX. I get the ones with the split connector as this lets me do an extra battery.
    Thanks my friend. Just what I needed.

    Nice and simple... easy on the head and a spare could be switched out easily. I guess it depends on light output. Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?

  25. #175
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    mfos - Love your helmet battery. Makes perfect sense to keep it lightweight. I assume you are soldering the leads onto the batteries. Any issues w/ doing this? I have heard others say this isn't an issue w/ a decent powered solder station, just wondering if you have any tips. Thanks.
    Not a problem ANDY13. Just work quickly and of course use eye protection.

    Nice and simple... easy on the head and a spare could be switched out easily. I guess it depends on light output. Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?
    TJWilly - Others would be much more knowledgeable than me about this but it is my understanding that brightness is a determined more by amperage than voltage which is determined by settings in the driver. One LED drawing 2800ma uses one battery faster than two.....etc. Lots of good expert discussions here on that on these forums. My driver only supports 3.6v (charged to 4.2v) and a high setting drawing 2800ma., so I keep it simple.

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