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  1. #251
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    Wireless speedo interference?

    Anyone else have interference with their wireless speedo using the DX drivers?
    I am using as a bars light, right next to my Cateye, and the on switch for the light might as well be an off switch for the cateye.
    Solutions?

  2. #252
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    interesting. I just wired up a xml maglite using this same driver - I've got a wireless Polar HRM/comp - I'll test it tonight to see if I have similar results.

    Might have something to do with having that big toroidial inductor close to your speedo, although the aluminum housing should act as a magnetic shield just lie in hone theater speakers that are designed to be placed close to a tube-style TV.

  3. #253
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    It doesn't affect my wireless HRM/GPS (Garmin), just the cateye. It is really close in proximity, but I have run a L&M Stella in exactly the same spot for years. Cateye is on the stem, light immeadiately to the left.
    Would grounding the negative to the case help at all?

  4. #254
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    New question here. Clicky Switch

    Since the switch from the OP is currently sold out, can you guys provide an alternative? (I'm making an order on DX, so if the alternative is available there, even better)

    I've found 2, but I'm not sure whether they're suitable or not.

    http: //dx.com//p/5604 (cannot post links - remove the space between http: and //)
    and
    http: //dx.com//p/122514 (cannot post links - remove the space between http: and //)

  5. #255
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    I'm real happy with this inline switch.

    Component - Switch: on-off switch with LED Indicator (1' long) with Male & Female Trail-Tech coaxis connector

    Just use the Trailtech cables also available through them.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
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  6. #256
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    Judco switches and rubber boots work well for me.

    Tube amp Switches

    Hoffman amps is el34 here on the forum. I made a first order with him a couple of weeks ago and he is blazing fast with packing it up and shipping. The silicone wire he has for sale (by the foot) is QUEEN for working in small enclosures. I will definitely be going to el34 for switches, wire and mounts for any builds I do in the future. Top notch service!
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  7. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight511 View Post
    Judco switches and rubber boots work well for me.

    Tube amp Switches

    Hoffman amps is el34 here on the forum. I made a first order with him a couple of weeks ago and he is blazing fast with packing it up and shipping. The silicone wire he has for sale (by the foot) is QUEEN for working in small enclosures. I will definitely be going to el34 for switches, wire and mounts for any builds I do in the future. Top notch service!
    2X.
    I also used the Judco/boot/silicone wire from them on a different project.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
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  8. #258
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    I've seen that switch before in one of the earlier posts , but since I'm in Europe (Portugal), I'm searching for an alternative that allows me to save in shipping costs.
    Also, the inline switch is not ideal, because I want to make the switch like a remote on the handlebar, or on the helmet.

    But thank you so much for your reply though!

  9. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by FInixNOver View Post
    Since the switch from the OP is currently sold out, can you guys provide an alternative? (I'm making an order on DX, so if the alternative is available there, even better)

    I've found 2, but I'm not sure whether they're suitable or not.

    http: //dx.com//p/5604 (cannot post links - remove the space between http: and //)
    and
    http: //dx.com//p/122514 (cannot post links - remove the space between http: and //)
    Depending on the driver you choose, the switches above probably can't handle the current. Judcos are good. Alternately, you could search ebay for something waterproof and push on/push off (not momentary) rated to >3A. For example: 4pcs Waterproof Lock Push Switch 9V 12V 24V 36V 110V GA6L AY | eBay
    The study du jour: can one's reputation be artificially inflated by simply putting a request for rep in one's sig?

  10. #260
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    Well, not you got me! I didn't even pay attention to the current...

    The driver in question is the alternative provided by Pucked Up (again, since the one in the OP is sold out).

    About the switch itself... since the driver has 3 modes, shouldn't it be better to use a momentary switch, to cycle through the modes? (sorry about the noobness, but it's my first diy)

    Actually i'm repairing an ebay MS copy, because the driver is not working.
    I've already tested the XM-L and the batteries, and since the driver is not like the one that came in the light (with the tailcap switch included), I'm taking the chance to make a remote switch, but still be able to cycle through the driver modes.

    In the future, I plan to make a similar light to the one on this thread, however, the aluminum parts are proving difficult to get (being in Portugal and all ). Maybe I'll be able to get them machined in a lathe using aluminum rod, and in that case, dimensions for the parts would be highly appreciated.

  11. #261
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    You need on-off with this driver. It goes [press]HIGH[press]OFF[press]LOW[press]OFF[press]STROBE[press]OFF.

    A bit annoying, but at the low price, it'll do.
    2013 Specialized Camber Comp
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  12. #262
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    It can be a bit annoying, but like you said, low price... and since this is only a repair job, it most definitely will do

    All that being said, if someone is kind enough to provide a link to a switch (I know, I know, I should search myself, and a link has been provided above already)... but I'd like to use a low profile one, maybe something similar to the one presented in the OP, because I still haven't decided if I'm going to use this as an helmet light, and it would be easier to velcro a small flat switch to the helmet, instead of a tall round one.
    An ebay link or similar should suffice, or some keywords so I can search.

    Sorry about hijacking the thread with these questions.
    Cheers!

  13. #263
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    Added most likely the last update for this which is a video of how the lights work on the trail. The update is on the very 1st post.
    "By Your Command"

  14. #264
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    I'm sure this thread will become active again come Fall! I have not even done anything to mine. All I have is the driver! ;o/
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
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  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    All I have is the driver! ;o/
    Hey that's a start!

    For those that don't want to click back to the first post here's the video. Have fun night riding!

    "By Your Command"

  16. #266
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    The 14.8V 4 x 18650 is really blocky. The pic you have of the bag holding the batteries off the front would make my OCD flair. Could you help me locate a 14.8 box that is either 2 and 2 stacked(double stack), or just a straight column of 4 x 18650. I want a box that will strap down to the frame, or be of the right dimensions to fit in the gap of my 40mm rise handlebar. If the battery column/double stack is the right size, I could make a small velcro bag to go between the gap and fit snug. Otherwise, I will make the battery wire harness a bit longer so I can lay down a rubber pad on the frame and secure the box to the frame using velcro straps; or elastic hook straps, if I can find a size that would give me a snug fit to the frame. If we could find a double stack, I'd just affix it to the front of the steered shell using velcro tape and a velcro retention strap to snug it.

    Also, if anyone is wanting to mask the wire harnesses, look into PC mods for nylon wire sleeving. You would than have the ability to make the wire harnesses any color you wanted and hide the red and black. I'm going to try and make my harness assembly all red. Will update with pictures when build is close to finish(week or more).

    Edit: Pulled the trigger on the listed parts form DX, but it seems the Clicky Switch is sold out. Is there one of 'roughly' the same price and function as the CS from DX?

    Edit2: Bike trip to Platt Electrical Supply for diode and driver housing.

  17. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdxmark View Post
    The 14.8V 4 x 18650 is really blocky. The pic you have of the bag holding the batteries off the front would make my OCD flair. Could you help me locate a 14.8 box that is either 2 and 2 stacked(double stack), or just a straight column of 4 x 18650. I want a box that will strap down to the frame, or be of the right dimensions to fit in the gap of my 40mm rise handlebar. If the battery column/double stack is the right size, I could make a small velcro bag to go between the gap and fit snug. Otherwise, I will make the battery wire harness a bit longer so I can lay down a rubber pad on the frame and secure the box to the frame using velcro straps; or elastic hook straps, if I can find a size that would give me a snug fit to the frame. If we could find a double stack, I'd just affix it to the front of the steered shell using velcro tape and a velcro retention strap to snug it.

    Also, if anyone is wanting to mask the wire harnesses, look into PC mods for nylon wire sleeving. You would than have the ability to make the wire harnesses any color you wanted and hide the red and black. I'm going to try and make my harness assembly all red. Will update with pictures when build is close to finish(week or more).

    Edit: Pulled the trigger on the listed parts form DX, but it seems the Clicky Switch is sold out. Is there one of 'roughly' the same price and function as the CS from DX?

    Edit2: Bike trip to Platt Electrical Supply for diode and driver housing.

    Hey pdx,

    I have not come across any 18650 holders that were cube 2x2 or straight column. If this is something that is important to you, then have a look at this from another thread. Some people here are using this as holders replacing the crappy batteries that came with it with quality ones. If I remember you'll need to use unprotected flat top 18650s. The thread i found this in can be found here. I do not know if it comes with a charger.

    Or you can always get a bag that is to your liking. I was just re-cycling an old Nintendo DS pouch that I had. Besides no ones notices at night while you're riding.

    As for the switches, any on/off switch should work. So you'll have to see which one you like from DX or any other sites you buy from.

    All the best on your build and have fun riding at night.

    Don't forget to post pics of your build when it's done.
    "By Your Command"

  18. #268
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  20. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by find_bruce View Post
    That pack is 7.4V - I think PDX was after 14.8,
    Yes, he did state a 14.8V battery. If pdx is building something like this thread covers he likely would be better off with a 7.4V pack as long as his driver choice supports that voltage. Most drivers gain efficiency if the difference between Vin and Vout is lower.

  21. #271
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    Thanks for the link to those batteries. Today I'm going to wander to a couple of hardware stores looking for the diode and driver housing. And, maybe, today I wont hit the concrete and skin myself up like yesterday after going to the tool store. My family gave me a gift card to Home Depot , I ended up only paying $10 out of my pocket for this torque wrench... So happy, needed an Inch-pounds wrench for ever!

    Anyways, back on topic, my plan with this guide is to make this project as compact as possible, with any attached harnesses being as short as possible without creating steering issues, also making it so less wire can be caught up on whatever. I like the mag head idea and I have a lathe I can use to create a nice looking sink like roxtar made. Though, If my ADD makes me want it now, I may just do both; grab a maglite with a diode, mod that. Also get the electrical conduit and make that. I was thinking that a skinnier maglite head would make for a great low-profile helmet lite.

    Obviously I'm in the gather parts and pre-production phase. When I start working on it, I may either do this as a video(probably not), but I will get photos of production time and end work.

    You guys are great, I'm so glad I found this thread. Tinkering warms my heart; and on a nice winter day, this lite should warm my hands!

    Edit: Still waiting on my order from DX. Finally figured out how their tracking system works, showed me my package has been opened twice by Chinese customs and has yet made it into the States. DX says it shipped on 8/21. Last opened by customs on 20130825 0007(lol, that's a date). Waiting patiently!
    Last edited by pdxmark; 08-29-2013 at 03:18 PM.

  22. #272
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    Just received my Nitecore Intellicharger-i4(output 4.2v, 0.375A*4 / 1.48v, 0.75A*2) from Amazon. Now to keep waiting for my package from DX, last tracked; 8/26 at Shanghai Pudong International Airport; "action: NULL". So I'm going to assume it's on a plane head toward my house, or customs is still sitting on it!

    Edit-9/5: My driver, batteries, wire harnesses and battery box showed up today around 2pm PST. Soldered a female connecter onto the battery box, made a male to female extension cable, now I just need to pick up the intermittent button, conduit pieces and red shrink, believe I have silicone.

    -->Should I fully drain the 18650's before fully charging them?

    Updates to follow, waiting to get camera back from brother.
    Last edited by pdxmark; 09-05-2013 at 08:26 PM.
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  23. #273
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    Hi pdx, there is no need to drain the 18650s, just charge them up and you're good to go.
    "By Your Command"

  24. #274
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    Thanks...

    ... All I need to get now is the housing. Not sure if I want to get the $26 dollar housing from LEDSupply, or just go with the homedepot electrical conduit and protect it from rain with red shrink. Don't know what I'll do, got to get paycheck.
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  25. #275
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    Update Smaller XM-L2 Build!!

    I know I said my last update would be the last, but, there is no point starting a new thread with this new info.

    Do you guys wish this build could be a little lighter and smaller? I would also say easier, but this is about as easiest as it gets.





    Well you're in luck! Cause meet XM-L's little cozin..."XM-L2"



    They are about the same in length but the new body has a smaller diameter.




    It weights less too!! I assuming it'll weight in at around 81g with driver, optics, emitter and wires in place.

    I'm going to be using XM-L2 emitters on a 16mm board as the new heat sink will only be 17mm wide with AMC7135 3.0A driver on this new build.

    Will I really see a difference in light output between a 2.8A and a 3.0A driver?

    Anyways here is the info you'll need if you want the smaller body.
    Mainbody is 1/2 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING $5.00
    Optic holder is R-21 $1.83
    Heat sink is CUP-1 KILLARK 1/2" CLOSE-UP PLUG $1.60

    To close up the back end, I'll use one of the sliding door thingy with a cable gland through it.

    I'll add this new info to the first post also.
    "By Your Command"

  26. #276
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    nevermind. the answer was, yes... crazy.
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  27. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I was planning on taking the conduit to my friends lathe and machining the exterior to be a finned heatsink. 48g though, not bad.

    Going to Home Depot now, right now, for the housing pieces.
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  28. #278
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    The Home Depots around here (North Texas) don't stock the aluminum conduit. You would have to go to Grainger in my area to get these parts.
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  29. #279
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    You don't really need to have it finned, I've used these lights on the hottest of nights on high and have had no issues. If you do don't go too deep.
    "By Your Command"

  30. #280
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    Hey Pucked,
    How do you cram the driver in there? What optics are you using?

  31. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarniwoop42 View Post
    Hey Pucked,
    How do you cram the driver in there? What optics are you using?
    I'm using a new driver now, it's the AMC7135 and there are two version that I've used. One has an output of 2.8a the other 3.04a. These are small enough to fit inside the smaller bodies. I'm not sure if the original driver from DX will fit. I'll try it when I get home.

    As for optics, I'm waiting for some new optics to arrive from DNA-LED which has a 10 degree angle. The original optics from the build should fit. You may need to file the numb of the lens for it to fit the smaller R-21. You may also have to loose the optic holder.

    I haven't started the build with the smaller body as I'm still waiting for parts to arrive.
    "By Your Command"

  32. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    As for optics, I'm waiting for some new optics to arrive from DNA-LED which has a 10 degree angle. The original optics from the build should fit. You may need to file the numb of the lens for it to fit the smaller R-21. You may also have to loose the optic holder.
    The LED-DNA optics have a holder that should probably be used. It spaces the optic off the star by .75mm or .03". With out that space the beam get some darkish artifacts that one might find objectionable. I played with that in the shop so no outdoor experience. Sometimes things seen in a wall shot are not a problem in real use.

  33. #283
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    No need to check the DX driver. I have the AMC7135 as well. After building lights with
    the 3/4 inch fittings I didn't think the 7135 would fit the smaller fittings.

    I'm anxious to see how this comes together!

  34. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarniwoop42 View Post
    After building lights with
    the 3/4 inch fittings I didn't think the 7135 would fit the smaller fittings.

    I'm anxious to see how this comes together!
    No worries, the smaller Cup 1 has an opening of about 24mm. The AMC7135 is only about 17mm and fits inside with room to spare.

    Edit:
    I mean 1/2 ALUMINUM CONDUIT COUPLING, not Cup 1.
    Last edited by pucked up; 10-03-2013 at 05:10 PM.
    "By Your Command"

  35. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    No worries, the smaller Cup 1 has an opening of about 24mm. The AMC7135 is only about 17mm and fits inside with room to spare.
    Hi Pucked Up
    Got links for those drivers?

  36. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeS View Post
    Hi Pucked Up
    Got links for those drivers?
    Here you go:
    2.8a version

    3.04a version
    "By Your Command"

  37. #287
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    Dusted off my parts for this project (the bigger version), and in screwing the alu conduit parts together I notice the threaded interfaces are slightly loose. When the ends of the condulet and coupler meet, they can be snugged together pretty tight, but I'm not convinced they wouldn't loosen due to vibration (on the handlebars). Also, I would assume the thermal path from the close-up plug to the outer parts is pretty poor.

    So I'm wondering if there's some kind of compound I can put on the threads to tighten them up a little -- preferably something that also helps with thermal exchange between the CUP and the outer bits?

  38. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by random walk View Post
    Dusted off my parts for this project (the bigger version), and in screwing the alu conduit parts together I notice the threaded interfaces are slightly loose. When the ends of the condulet and coupler meet, they can be snugged together pretty tight, but I'm not convinced they wouldn't loosen due to vibration (on the handlebars). Also, I would assume the thermal path from the close-up plug to the outer parts is pretty poor.

    So I'm wondering if there's some kind of compound I can put on the threads to tighten them up a little -- preferably something that also helps with thermal exchange between the CUP and the outer bits?
    Did you have the optics on? The R32 will clamp down on to the optics by screwing on to the cup 2 plug. Once the R32 and cup 2 is screwed doen in to the coupler everything should be nice and tight.

    I have not had one light come apart while riding. Also heat transfer is very good when assembled. No heating issues while riding and I've I have ridden for as long as 2.5hrs on high.

    You can always use silver artic to give you piece of mind. All the best with your build.
    "By Your Command"

  39. #289
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    Update:

    I've been using the DNA LED optics for the last two wks and find that they do have somewhat a tighter and futher throw. But not by much. Comparing them with the original spot optics on the first page, I noticed that there is less spill in front of the bike. It's safe to say that this can be used for both a bar and helmet light. Less expensive option as well.

    Sorry but the DNA LED optics will not fit the smaller build.
    "By Your Command"

  40. #290
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    This switch is rated to handle 3Ampers.

    This switch is rated to handle 10Ampers.

    Will any one of the two work? If so, which would be the better?
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  41. #291
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    I was told that the rating isn't that important. So either one will do.
    "By Your Command"

  42. #292
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    3.04a driver

    Hi Pucked Up. Great write up and thanks for the information. I just ordered the majority of these parts and am awaiting their arrival. I have a question in regards to the 3.04a driver you listed above. What modes did you configure this to use and are you happy with it?

  43. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by brackenb5 View Post
    Hi Pucked Up. Great write up and thanks for the information. I just ordered the majority of these parts and am awaiting their arrival. I have a question in regards to the 3.04a driver you listed above. What modes did you configure this to use and are you happy with it?
    I have one light with 2 modes (high/low) and another with 3 modes (low/mid/high) with memory. I like this driver a lot due to the memory that it has. No need to cycle through the different modes every time you turn your lights on.

    With the DX driver, it was pushing out about 2.65 - 2.70A. The 2.8A driver from Fasttech was pushing about 2.75A. I haven't been able to measure what the 3.04 driver is pumping out yet. I don't really see a big difference in light out put between the three drivers.

    Hopefully when my new LEDs XM-L2's arrives, I'll see a jump in light out put using the 3.04A drivers.
    "By Your Command"

  44. #294
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    Bump.
    Any of you guys know a UK supplier of these alu parts.
    Can only find stainless steel on Ebay.

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