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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinv89 View Post
    I've finally found some suppliers in the UK to supply the conduit...I'll be ordering tomorrow and getting my first like underway!
    Where did you get them from and how much did they cost?

    Cheers
    Paul

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    Just wanted to add some voltage info.

    Did a large night ride and got about 3.3h of mostly high. Just got back to the car as it kicked from high to low. Still not 100% sure it was a voltage thing. When I git home the batteries were stilat 3.5v each. This was without load. I will get a with load reading just to see if they dipped down alot more.
    I finally replaced my broken multimeter today. I tested the voltage on a fresh set of batteries and this is what i got.

    No load - 16.7v
    On high - 16.2v
    On low - 16.5v

    I haven't had a chance to go night riding the last couple of wks. I'll test them again after i go for a good night ride.

  3. #103
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    Great light!

    I misplaced my last set of DIY lights in a move, so I'm very happy to find this design. It's got everything that I like... bright, low cost and requiring few tools. I ordered parts today for two lights. It looks like they will take a lot less time to assemble than my past lights.

    However, I have one question... Is anyone using rubber o-rings to mount their lights like the Dinotte style lights? It seems like this light is well suited for it.

    Like this: DIY Dinotte Style

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbeans View Post
    Great light!

    I have one question... Is anyone using rubber o-rings to mount their lights like the Dinotte style lights? It seems like this light is well suited for it.

    Like this: DIY Dinotte Style
    I haven't tried it, but I can't see why it won't work. Good luck on the build and keep us posted.

  5. #105
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    Im pretty happy with the cheapy dx mounts posted in the build. The lights are nice and small and dont move around.

    With a longer light they are not so good.

  6. #106
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    I ordered that mount, and I'm planning on trying it for the bar. I'll probably try the rings too and see which one suits me best. I'll definitely be trying to figure out a good way to get that light low on my helmet too. I think the rubber o-rings will help with that.

    Thanks for the replies. I'll share a picture if I figure out anything that could advance the cause. Based on shipping from Hong Kong, I'm guessing it will be a while before I start piecing things together.

  7. #107
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    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonCorp View Post
    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?
    This design only draws approximately 750mA through the switch.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonCorp View Post
    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?
    I have not had any issues with this switch. I asked this question in another thread here and I was told as long as I keep the switch between the batteries and driver everything should be fine.

    You can use another type of switch, but I wanted to keep the cost down to a minimum for this build.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I finally replaced my broken multimeter today. I tested the voltage on a fresh set of batteries and this is what i got.

    No load - 16.7v
    On high - 16.2v
    On low - 16.5v

    I haven't had a chance to go night riding the last couple of wks. I'll test them again after i go for a good night ride.
    Update:
    It was a nice night today so a few buddies and I went for a ride for about 1.75hrs. I had my lights on high 100% of the ride. Got home and kept the lights on high until it drop to low. The light switched around the 3 hr 20mins mark. Measured and batteries with the following results.

    No Load - 13.76v
    Low - 13.20v
    On High, started at 12.10v and rapidly drop to 11.89v (cut to low) then remained at 4.32v.

    So at ~3.5hrs ride time on high, I would recommend a re-charge with these batteries. Still not bad for a low budget build.

    I've order some quality batteries and will re-run this test when they arrive. My guess is that I may only get another 60mins with them. So I don't know if the extra cost is worth it.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I have not had any issues with this switch. I asked this question in another thread here and I was told as long as I keep the switch between the batteries and driver everything should be fine.

    You can use another type of switch, but I wanted to keep the cost down to a minimum for this build.
    That is what I thought but just wanted to double check. I have all the supplies coming. I have enough for two, after I get them built I will be looking into machining my own housings.

  12. #112
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    Thats almost exactly what I got. 3h 23min and they both kicked to low.

    They run twice as long as my friends light, and im abke to run on bigh the whole time while he is constantly switching down.

    Its been a great light. How hot did they get just sitting with no air flow? I didnt have good thermal paste, so I have been alittle weary leaving them on indoors.

    And the weather was amazing yesterday. I opted for a day ride as my riding partner was working nights. My area is not the kind of trails you want to be flying through the trails at night alone. Let us know how the better batteries work. I would love to get some task led driver to run a full 3a but there is enough output as they are and I dont want to lose run time.

    This is some of te studf I "run into" at night.



    Yes there is a trail through the moss. It was grippier then I though.
    Last edited by machine4321; 11-12-2012 at 06:47 AM.

  13. #113
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    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  14. #114
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    Great thread!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.
    I agree. Last time I ordered from them it was a massive pain Took almost a month!
    2012 GT Force 2.0

  15. #115
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    Marwi mount.

    2x3/4 inch piece of thick plastic cutting board.
    Drill three 1/4 inch holes.
    Two cable ties...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Very Easy XM-L Build-easyxml_marwi_small.jpg  


  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    How hot did they get just sitting with no air flow?

    There is a fan blowing on high just in-front of the light. It gets warm a bit that's all.


    Quote Originally Posted by zarniwoop42 View Post
    Marwi mount.
    NICE!
    Are you able to tilt the light down with that mount?

    I like the helmet mount! Got to try that one.


    Handle bar mount Update:
    I'm using these now for the handle bars.


    Bought at MEC (mountain equipment Co-op) $3.50. I like these as the light sit low to the handle bars. I had to sand off some plastic off the base to get the zip ties through. Works great and are firmly attached to the bars.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.

    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!
    Awesome.
    Thanks
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!
    What do you mean by, "more features"?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  20. #120
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    Programable output. Status led to know at what state you voltage is at. I think there is thermal cutoffs and low voltage cutoffs as well.

  21. #121
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    [QUOTE=pucked up]
    NICE!
    Are you able to tilt the light down with that mount?

    Yes it tilts. There is a bar mount also.
    Leave a base on the bars and the helmet.
    I like being able to slide the light off and back on without the need to adjust the angle every time.

    Btw, thanks for posting this build. It's easy enough that I can do it.

  22. #122
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    A little heads up here.
    If, like me, you ordered the housing parts from Fastenal, their condulet has a larger opening; too large to hold the optic in. It holds the optic holder but not the optic itself. You will need to either leave the optic holder tabs in place or glue the optic to the holder if using this condulet.
    I found out when I put the whole thing together and the optic fell out the front.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  23. #123
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    Lol. Mine is loose but wont fall out. Was it the killark r32 number?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    Lol. Mine is loose but wont fall out. Was it the killark r32 number?
    Yup, the one linked on page 3 or 4
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  25. #125
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    Hmmm...it's weird that the opening is larger when bought from Fastenal.

    To get a tight fit over the optics, first screw down the R32 to the optics before screwing it to the main body.

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