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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    I'm in Caledon, right next to Albion Hills and Palgrave. Lots of singletrack out the door.
    Lucky you!

    I've only rode Albion once a few years back an O'cup race I think it was. Miss the 24hrs event this year but family members took part in it and had a blast. Came 2nd in their group class. Didn't have these lights ready for that event and didn't know that the Hot Aug Night race was cancelled. I was looking forward to that one which these lights were made for. Oh well next year.

  2. #77
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    So I just got my meter on my drivers and they are only running at 2.3a at best. From there it does go down after a few min to 2.285 ish. I assume this is a heat issue.

    This is the driver that I subbed in as the original was out if stock.

    They are still bright but I had a feeling they could do more. I guess this is a "get what you pay for" type thing. Now to find a true 3 amp driver

  3. #78
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    Thanks for the update. Wonder if there is a way to mod this driver so it pushes out closer to 3A?

    The first set of lights I created was with the older driver, I don't think it was at 3A also. Side by side they both seem to have the same output. Yeah we get what we pay for, but it is still a lot of light for the price.

  4. #79
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    Exactly!! No complaints here. Its kinda nice to know theres more room in there

    The taskled stuff looks awsone, just wasnt in the budget for a first light.

  5. #80
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    Driver with a middle mode.

    I am going to build one of these regardless but does anybody know of a driver with a higher low mode of a 4 mode driver with a middle mode. Can these things be modified by changing a resistor?

    Great design but I've got a wood lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and some carbide tools. Will not take long to clean up the threads and make that pretty as well as usefull .

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Lucky you!

    I've only rode Albion once a few years back an O'cup race I think it was. Miss the 24hrs event this year but family members took part in it and had a blast. Came 2nd in their group class. Didn't have these lights ready for that event and didn't know that the Hot Aug Night race was cancelled. I was looking forward to that one which these lights were made for. Oh well next year.
    I was there this year, along wit 6 light sets for my team and other friends. Not often you see an offroad recumbent on the podium there.

    I used 1 xm-l on my helmet and a second floodier one on the bars.

  7. #82
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    cool white or neutral?

    I was all set to order some LED's to build one of these and don't have the knowledge to select between a cool and neutral LED. I asked my son if he knew anything about LED and he replied "Dad get the neutral, your not cool". Anybody have a more scientific approach to making this choice?

  8. #83
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    Neutral will be a more daylight type lighting. The cool will produce more lumens but have a more blueish tint.

    I went with cool and it looks just fine on the trails.

  9. #84
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    Color temp is a personal preference. Sunlight is ~5780K for reference and would be considered truly "white" light.

    Cree XM-L color temp is rated like this:

    Cool white is between 5000K and 8300K. This produces from white to slightly blue-white light.
    Neutral white is between 3700K to 5000K. This produces slightly yellow-white to white.
    Warm white is between 2600K and 3700K. Thsi produces a pretty yellow-white light.

    In automobile lighting, my eyes prefer light between 5000K and 6500K. Based on my experience with automotive lighting, I selected cool white LEDs for my build. Cool or neutral should be fine, but I wouldn't want the warm white personally speaking.... it is far too yellow.... of course, warm white would penetrate foggy conditions better than the others, but I don't ride in fog.
    Fat guys need bikes too.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by hugh088 View Post
    I am going to build one of these regardless but does anybody know of a driver with a higher low mode of a 4 mode driver with a middle mode. Can these things be modified by changing a resistor?

    Great design but I've got a wood lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and some carbide tools. Will not take long to clean up the threads and make that pretty as well as usefull .
    The TaskLed drivers can be programmed to whatever you'd like. I run mine on Multimode, 5 levels of brightness equally spaced visually, with a 3A max. There are other modes where you set each level yourself.

    I like the neutral tints, even though the lumen count is less. Better depth perception.

  11. #86
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    Most commercial LED systems use a cool white LED, it's a higher temperature colour, and it's definitely got a bluish hue to it.

    This is my experience: The neutral is a much more natural colour, it is a little warmer in tone. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages. The cool has a slightly better throw length; it seems like it projects deeper into the woods, but at the same time, it washes colours out a lot, so you lose contrast. The neutral doesn't seem quite as bright, but it gives a much more accurate colour illumination, so the contrast seems sharper.
    I like them both, but personally, I prefer the neutral.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biggles604 View Post
    The neutral doesn't seem quite as bright, but it gives a much more accurate colour illumination
    This is correct for most LEDs, including the XM-Ls. Here's a good short article on typical white LEDs and color rendering. The picture of the spectra in the center of the article is worth a thousand words and explains why neutrals show colors/contrast/depth better.

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by hugh088 View Post
    I was all set to order some LED's to build one of these and don't have the knowledge to select between a cool and neutral LED. I asked my son if he knew anything about LED and he replied "Dad get the neutral, your not cool". Anybody have a more scientific approach to making this choice?

    This is cool white on the trail.


    This is Neutral white on the trail.


    Both of the pictures the lights are on high mode. As other have said, it's really your choice as which one you want to use. I've use and like both, but I do end up using the cool light set more often.

  14. #89
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    Are those identical lights, except for the tint? Also it 'appears' that maybe the cool white is pointed down a little which may affect it's appearance of, or lack thereof, throw. I have to say I can see why some builder's love the neutral white. It's not as impressive at first glance but it does look more 'natural'.

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    Are those identical lights, except for the tint? Also it 'appears' that maybe the cool white is pointed down a little which may affect it's appearance of, or lack thereof, throw. I have to say I can see why some builder's love the neutral white. It's not as impressive at first glance but it does look more 'natural'.
    Yes both lights are using xml's. Powered by the same driver and type of batteries. You're right, I had the cool light pointed down more. I've always wanted to re-do the shoot but don't have any time right now.

  16. #91
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    Has anyone tried sourcing parts from big box stores? I found some items at Home Depot I will try once the LED and driver arrive.

    Halex 3/4 in. Rigid Conduit Coupling

    Taymac 3/4 in. Metal Closure Plugs, Gray (4-Pack)

    I still have a problem trying to find something local to replace the R32 condulet but I'll see what I can do with reducer bushings and possibly some threaded conduit.
    Halex 1 in. x 3/4 in. Reducing Bushing
    Halex 3/4 in. x 1/2 in. Reducer Bushing

    I will also look into some water tight compression joints once the parts arrive.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong - I am no electricitian by any means but I thought conduit was non-conductive which is why its used for housing electrical wires.

    Btw, great write up!

    EDIT: Grainger carries fittings in aluminum
    POWER FIRST Rigid Conduit Coupling, 3/4 In, Alum
    Last edited by Koollata; 10-30-2012 at 05:28 PM.

  17. #92
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    Well the ones you listed are steel. So yes they will be conductive. Also as far as I know aluminum is much better at conducting heat and would be a better choice.

  18. #93
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    Yeah aluminum has a much higher heat conductance than steel, but would it be significant in this application without being finned? I think the bigger advantage of aluminum in this case would be the weight savings.

    (Not trying to sound argumentative - just trying to learn)

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koollata View Post
    Yeah aluminum has a much higher heat conductance than steel, but would it be significant in this application without being finned? I think the bigger advantage of aluminum in this case would be the weight savings.

    (Not trying to sound argumentative - just trying to learn)
    Your biggest issue is not so much the heat that the led is producing. You'll be moving and as you are riding your bike will cool the housing. The biggest issue as you've already said is weight. The parts you'll be using is 4 - 5x the weight I've listed. If you can make this work, it's fine if you'll be using them on your handle bars. It will be too heavy to use as a helmet light.

    If there is no Westburne where you live, try Fastenal. The 3/4" coupling part #0749523

    R32 KILLARK CONDULET

    Fastenal seem to be more of an international company.

  20. #95
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    Thanks for clarifying!

  21. #96
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    Try an electrical supply store that deals with electricians. They got it or can get it and they are all over the place. I got my parts in 10 minutes at the shop across the road from the Home Depot after spending twice that long digging through shelves at HD and trying to find someone to help me. Might have spent an extra 50 cents buying it there but the guy behind the counter gave me some good advice and pulled a wire off something and said it was what I wanted for the wire to the battery. He gave it to me for free. Of course my wife was with me and now I be spending a couple of hundred replacing fixtures in the kitchen.

  22. #97
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    Just wanted to add some voltage info.

    Did a large night ride and got about 3.3h of mostly high. Just got back to the car as it kicked from high to low. Still not 100% sure it was a voltage thing. When I git home the batteries were stilat 3.5v each. This was without load. I will get a with load reading just to see if they dipped down alot more.

  23. #98
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    Oh, I have to build this! The results look excellent!

  24. #99
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    Does the remote switch have the high and low settings built in? I didn't see anything about that in the build, but all the photos of the lights in action show high and low settings...

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by schraderlp View Post
    Does the remote switch have the high and low settings built in? I didn't see anything about that in the build, but all the photos of the lights in action show high and low settings...
    It's a click switch. On and off, but you can half press it to get a momentary interruption of power. This momentary off is what switches modes.

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