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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinv89 View Post
    I've finally found some suppliers in the UK to supply the conduit...I'll be ordering tomorrow and getting my first like underway!
    Where did you get them from and how much did they cost?

    Cheers
    Paul

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    Just wanted to add some voltage info.

    Did a large night ride and got about 3.3h of mostly high. Just got back to the car as it kicked from high to low. Still not 100% sure it was a voltage thing. When I git home the batteries were stilat 3.5v each. This was without load. I will get a with load reading just to see if they dipped down alot more.
    I finally replaced my broken multimeter today. I tested the voltage on a fresh set of batteries and this is what i got.

    No load - 16.7v
    On high - 16.2v
    On low - 16.5v

    I haven't had a chance to go night riding the last couple of wks. I'll test them again after i go for a good night ride.

  3. #103
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    Great light!

    I misplaced my last set of DIY lights in a move, so I'm very happy to find this design. It's got everything that I like... bright, low cost and requiring few tools. I ordered parts today for two lights. It looks like they will take a lot less time to assemble than my past lights.

    However, I have one question... Is anyone using rubber o-rings to mount their lights like the Dinotte style lights? It seems like this light is well suited for it.

    Like this: DIY Dinotte Style

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbeans View Post
    Great light!

    I have one question... Is anyone using rubber o-rings to mount their lights like the Dinotte style lights? It seems like this light is well suited for it.

    Like this: DIY Dinotte Style
    I haven't tried it, but I can't see why it won't work. Good luck on the build and keep us posted.

  5. #105
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    Im pretty happy with the cheapy dx mounts posted in the build. The lights are nice and small and dont move around.

    With a longer light they are not so good.

  6. #106
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    I ordered that mount, and I'm planning on trying it for the bar. I'll probably try the rings too and see which one suits me best. I'll definitely be trying to figure out a good way to get that light low on my helmet too. I think the rubber o-rings will help with that.

    Thanks for the replies. I'll share a picture if I figure out anything that could advance the cause. Based on shipping from Hong Kong, I'm guessing it will be a while before I start piecing things together.

  7. #107
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    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonCorp View Post
    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?
    This design only draws approximately 750mA through the switch.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonCorp View Post
    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?
    I have not had any issues with this switch. I asked this question in another thread here and I was told as long as I keep the switch between the batteries and driver everything should be fine.

    You can use another type of switch, but I wanted to keep the cost down to a minimum for this build.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I finally replaced my broken multimeter today. I tested the voltage on a fresh set of batteries and this is what i got.

    No load - 16.7v
    On high - 16.2v
    On low - 16.5v

    I haven't had a chance to go night riding the last couple of wks. I'll test them again after i go for a good night ride.
    Update:
    It was a nice night today so a few buddies and I went for a ride for about 1.75hrs. I had my lights on high 100% of the ride. Got home and kept the lights on high until it drop to low. The light switched around the 3 hr 20mins mark. Measured and batteries with the following results.

    No Load - 13.76v
    Low - 13.20v
    On High, started at 12.10v and rapidly drop to 11.89v (cut to low) then remained at 4.32v.

    So at ~3.5hrs ride time on high, I would recommend a re-charge with these batteries. Still not bad for a low budget build.

    I've order some quality batteries and will re-run this test when they arrive. My guess is that I may only get another 60mins with them. So I don't know if the extra cost is worth it.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I have not had any issues with this switch. I asked this question in another thread here and I was told as long as I keep the switch between the batteries and driver everything should be fine.

    You can use another type of switch, but I wanted to keep the cost down to a minimum for this build.
    That is what I thought but just wanted to double check. I have all the supplies coming. I have enough for two, after I get them built I will be looking into machining my own housings.

  12. #112
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    Thats almost exactly what I got. 3h 23min and they both kicked to low.

    They run twice as long as my friends light, and im abke to run on bigh the whole time while he is constantly switching down.

    Its been a great light. How hot did they get just sitting with no air flow? I didnt have good thermal paste, so I have been alittle weary leaving them on indoors.

    And the weather was amazing yesterday. I opted for a day ride as my riding partner was working nights. My area is not the kind of trails you want to be flying through the trails at night alone. Let us know how the better batteries work. I would love to get some task led driver to run a full 3a but there is enough output as they are and I dont want to lose run time.

    This is some of te studf I "run into" at night.



    Yes there is a trail through the moss. It was grippier then I though.
    Last edited by machine4321; 11-12-2012 at 07:47 AM.

  13. #113
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    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  14. #114
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    Great thread!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.
    I agree. Last time I ordered from them it was a massive pain Took almost a month!
    2012 GT Force 2.0

  15. #115
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    Marwi mount.

    2x3/4 inch piece of thick plastic cutting board.
    Drill three 1/4 inch holes.
    Two cable ties...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Very Easy XM-L Build-easyxml_marwi_small.jpg  


  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    How hot did they get just sitting with no air flow?

    There is a fan blowing on high just in-front of the light. It gets warm a bit that's all.


    Quote Originally Posted by zarniwoop42 View Post
    Marwi mount.
    NICE!
    Are you able to tilt the light down with that mount?

    I like the helmet mount! Got to try that one.


    Handle bar mount Update:
    I'm using these now for the handle bars.


    Bought at MEC (mountain equipment Co-op) $3.50. I like these as the light sit low to the handle bars. I had to sand off some plastic off the base to get the zip ties through. Works great and are firmly attached to the bars.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.

    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!
    Awesome.
    Thanks
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!
    What do you mean by, "more features"?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  20. #120
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    Programable output. Status led to know at what state you voltage is at. I think there is thermal cutoffs and low voltage cutoffs as well.

  21. #121
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    [QUOTE=pucked up]
    NICE!
    Are you able to tilt the light down with that mount?

    Yes it tilts. There is a bar mount also.
    Leave a base on the bars and the helmet.
    I like being able to slide the light off and back on without the need to adjust the angle every time.

    Btw, thanks for posting this build. It's easy enough that I can do it.

  22. #122
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    A little heads up here.
    If, like me, you ordered the housing parts from Fastenal, their condulet has a larger opening; too large to hold the optic in. It holds the optic holder but not the optic itself. You will need to either leave the optic holder tabs in place or glue the optic to the holder if using this condulet.
    I found out when I put the whole thing together and the optic fell out the front.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  23. #123
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    Lol. Mine is loose but wont fall out. Was it the killark r32 number?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    Lol. Mine is loose but wont fall out. Was it the killark r32 number?
    Yup, the one linked on page 3 or 4
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  25. #125
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    Hmmm...it's weird that the opening is larger when bought from Fastenal.

    To get a tight fit over the optics, first screw down the R32 to the optics before screwing it to the main body.

  26. #126
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    I still need to put a dab of glue on mine as they rattle abit.

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Hmmm...it's weird that the opening is larger when bought from Fastenal.
    .
    I know, especially considering they're labeled as Killark R32, just like the Westburne sourced piece.
    Oh well, not a big deal. Just have to add a bit of super glue to the holder.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  28. #128
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    Another noob question. The driver just seems to sit in the housing. Am I correct in assuming that it's OK for any part of it (other than the actual soldered + & - connections) to contact the housing?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  29. #129
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    I stuffe some light foam in there just to hold it in place. The sides o the driver are not conductive. But you are right, the solder joint would cause some issues.

  30. #130
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    So the coil making contact isn't a problem?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    So the coil making contact isn't a problem?
    How long is the coil?

    There should be no issues. If you're worried you can cover the contacts with silicone. The contact points are on a flat surface and it's almost impossible for both to make contact to a round surface.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    How long is the coil?.
    The large gold coil on the driver.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  33. #133
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    The wire on the coil has a thin "varnish" for insulation. If that rubs through to the housing it may cause trouble if the housing is not grounded. It will cause trouble if it rubs and the housing. Is grounded. Insulate the coil(and glue it to the board if it is not already) for best reliability.
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 11-17-2012 at 01:56 PM. Reason: Improve clarity

  34. #134
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    I always thought that thing was a heatsink for the driver. But so far it hasn't cause me any issues. My first set of light I made I just have the driver sitting inside the body. I've also made them where I have paste the driver (the coil part) to the bottom of the Cup 2 slug opposite of the LED.

    With the driver and all the wires, there really isn't much room for it to move around in there.

  35. #135
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    That's the induction coil:

    Inductor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  36. #136
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    Just a thought; is there anything in the driver that needs heat dissipation?
    What I'm considering is just dipping the whole driver (after soldering the leads, of course) in plastic dip.
    This would seal the entire assembly.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  37. #137
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    God dammit.
    After waiting three #$@^**&% weeks for DX to get me the damn driver, I'm soldering it up and one of the leads pulls out of it.
    No way in hell do I have the soldering technique (or eyes to even see where it's supposed to go) to get this thing back together.
    FAWK!
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  38. #138
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    I'm not sure what will happen if you dip the driver in plastic. i'm pretty sure that the driver does heat up but never tested it when it's outside the light body.

    If you're carefull you can solder the lead back on. It happen to me twice.
    "By Your Command"

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I'm not sure what will happen if you dip the driver in plastic. i'm pretty sure that the driver does heat up but never tested it when it's outside the light body.

    If you're carefull you can solder the lead back on. It happen to me twice.
    I can't even tell where it broke off. It's the black wire.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  40. #140
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    I have an extra one and will take a picture and post it when I get home. You can use it for reference.

    Update: Here is the picture. Hope it works out for you.

    Last edited by pucked up; 11-20-2012 at 05:18 PM.
    "By Your Command"

  41. #141
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    Updated.
    "By Your Command"

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I have an extra one and will take a picture and post it when I get home. You can use it for reference.

    Update: Here is the picture. Hope it works out for you.

    Awesome, thanks

    Edit: Damn, that's tight
    Last edited by roxtar; 11-21-2012 at 07:52 AM.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    Cool build.

    Instead of the coupler and second plug could you use two of the Condulet's and join them with the one plug in the middle?


    After this tuck the driver up tight to the plug then screw on a second Condulet to cover the driver. You would need to make a little plate to close up the end of the housing. some thin plastic sheet cut round and glued in with silicone.

    Housing would end up a bit smaller and the thread would provide surface area to act as heat sink.

    There would be no single smooth surface to mount, but perhaps file one side flat to tap screw hole for a mount.

    I need to build a couple lights for an event in September, this gives me ideas.

    Anyone know what the height of a modified Regina is vs these Carlco and holders? I have some Regina's I had ordered to use in a sled design.
    Hi Shirk

    Were you able to source any of these parts in your (our) area?

    Jake

  44. #144
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    This is cool! Thanks for posting!

  45. #145
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    Just a question (apologies as I'm a newb),
    can you use a lipo to power this?
    I'm still waiting on my bike to arrive (Cube LTD Pro)... and i'm looking around for lights and accesories and ideas.
    Thanks
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on its way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    Just a question (apologies as I'm a newb),
    can you use a lipo to power this?
    I'm still waiting on my bike to arrive (Cube LTD Pro)... and i'm looking around for lights and accesories and ideas.
    Thanks
    Power will be determine by the driver that you use for your build. The one I use for this build will accept batteries with input voltage from 6v - 18v. So if your lipos are within this range, then you can use them.
    "By Your Command"

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeS View Post
    Hi Shirk

    Were you able to source any of these parts in your (our) area?

    Jake
    I have not yet sourced the parts locally. There are a couple electrical supply houses here on the North Shore that should have them, I just have not stopped in. I ordered some drivers AGES ago that just finally arrives late last week. I am debating between this style housing or getting some aluminium with the right ID and copying one of odtexas's style builds.

    Now that I finally have all the guts it's time to get on it.

  48. #148
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    Charging batteries

    Hi all,
    Just getting all my parts ordered for my light build, just wondering what the best charger would be? Are you taking the batteries (18650) out of the case and charging them in a separate charger, or is there a charger you can just plug the battery pack into?

    Thanx, Paul
    Blades don't need reloading

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by akpauly86 View Post
    Hi all,
    Just getting all my parts ordered for my light build, just wondering what the best charger would be? Are you taking the batteries (18650) out of the case and charging them in a separate charger, or is there a charger you can just plug the battery pack into?

    Thanx, Paul

    Hey ak,

    With my batteries, I charge them in a separate charger. The one I'm using I got from DX and can be found here.


    I have 2 chargers so that I can charge four batteries at once.
    "By Your Command"

  50. #150
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    [QUOTEWith my batteries, I charge them in a separate charger. The one I'm using I got from DX and can be found here.


    I have 2 chargers so that I can charge four batteries at once.][/QUOTE]

    Thanx pucked up!

    Pauly
    Blades don't need reloading

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