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  1. #51
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    All good. Called local westburn with part numbers and got someone that wasnt lazy. All good. Had to order from other stores, but thats fine as I imagine deals extrem is going to take abit.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by markiemark79 View Post
    Thanks for making this such an easy project. It seems you know your stuff! One question, is there any alternative to LED Driver sku#57779 - $5
    as it seems to be sold out?
    Please see post #14.

    Use this one sku#128269

    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321
    All good. Called local westburn with part numbers and got someone that wasnt lazy. All good. Had to order from other stores, but thats fine as I imagine deals extrem is going to take abit.
    Good to hear, seems like you're all set.
    Last edited by pucked up; 10-05-2012 at 07:58 PM.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Please see post #14.



    Good to hear, seems like you're all set.
    My last DX order was Aug 26th. It hit New York Aug 30. It set there for weeks - customs, apparently - I received it Sept 26. So yeah - there can be delays.

  4. #54
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    Another update.

    I had a helmet mount from DX sku#32754 and took flashlight holder from DX sku#31871 cut it in half to mount it on the helmet mount. Held on with zip tie and Velcro from the flashlight holder to hold the light in place.

    I can now shine the light out on to the trail without moving my head so much.





    Last edited by pucked up; 10-17-2012 at 04:48 AM.

  5. #55
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    Nice. I just finished my helmet mount a fe nights ago. Used a sirius sat radio mount. Turned out great. Waiting on drivers to get these finished up. Itching to get riding.

  6. #56
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    Too high IMO. Depends on your riding locations, but that's a branch catcher on the most trails I ride.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Too high IMO. Depends on your riding locations, but that's a branch catcher on the most trails I ride.

    It is higher than what I would like, but in Southern Ont. there are not many blow downs on the trail I ride most so catching it with a branch is not an issue.

  8. #58
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    Mine is a bit higher. I will make a lower mount at some point but I just want to get out on the trails atthis point. Most of my trails are also pretty clear of branches.


  9. #59
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    Nice!

  10. #60
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    Another shout out, these lights are great. Just got mine all done today. Had so much faith that i built them and 5 min later was on a 3 hour night ride in the rain(started just as we left ) and i wasnt stopping. No issues to report. Stayed cool and put out great light.

    I am wondering if the drivers that i subbed in are really 3000ma. Specs said 2500-3000. Not sure what that meant.

    Plans are to upgrade wire from the batt holders as its a bit thin for my liking and find a nice way to mount the switches. The heat shrink I had was to thick and wouldnt allow the switch to move.

  11. #61
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    That's awesome to hear that the build worked out for you. Also that it held up in the rain! Hadn't had a chance to test it in wet weather.

    The trick with the switch and heat shirking is, just get it snug enough so don't apply the heat for to long. Also make sure the switch is off so that the button is on the higher side when the heat is applied. Then fill the open ends with silicon..

  12. #62
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    I've finally found some suppliers in the UK to supply the conduit...I'll be ordering tomorrow and getting my first like underway!

  13. #63
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    "pucked up"

    Cheers for sharing ...



    Now I need to look for suppliers here in the UK ...

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinv89 View Post
    I've finally found some suppliers in the UK to supply the conduit...I'll be ordering tomorrow and getting my first like underway!
    That awesome, keep us posted on your build.

    Quote Originally Posted by chinaman View Post
    "pucked up"

    Cheers for sharing ...

    Now I need to look for suppliers here in the UK ...

    Maybe kevin can help you out.

  15. #65
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    any chance you have beam shots using just 2 batteries or even just single battery? 4 pack seems too bulky to carry on my helmet and i dont like wires hanging from my head to keep the battery in backpack. thanks

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    any chance you have beam shots using just 2 batteries or even just single battery? 4 pack seems too bulky to carry on my helmet and i dont like wires hanging from my head to keep the battery in backpack. thanks
    The driver used in the build list has a minimum input voltage of 6volts. If you're talking about lithium, a single cell wouldn't work. A pair of cells might work, but you'd have to be very careful to stay over 6volts.

    The number of cells used shouldn't affect brightness as long as the driver stays in regulation.

    Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

  17. #67
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    You could always make a pack using smaller sized cells, like 18350 or 16340.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    It is higher than what I would like, but in Southern Ont. there are not many blow downs on the trail I ride most so catching it with a branch is not an issue.
    Where are you in Southern Ont?

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Where are you in Southern Ont?
    East of Toronto, Pickering / Ajax area. Lots of great trails just a short drive or about an hours ride away!

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    any chance you have beam shots using just 2 batteries or even just single battery? 4 pack seems too bulky to carry on my helmet and i dont like wires hanging from my head to keep the battery in backpack. thanks

    Sorry I don't have a two cell pack. I do have a three cell pack, but as other have said, there is no difference in light output. Your run times will vary depending on how many cells you use. Two would be the minimum which gives you around 2hrs on high.

    If you want something using only one battery, I would recommend a good flashlight.

  21. #71
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    great thanks, two cells seems reasonable for helmet. btw do battery holders exist for mentioned 18350 or 16340 sizes?

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    great thanks, two cells seems reasonable for helmet. btw do battery holders exist for mentioned 18350 or 16340 sizes?
    Don't know, you'll have to search on dealextreme.com or the place you get your batteries from. Good luck.

  23. #73
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    You could use a 2 pack for the helmut. I may do the same. But I do have the 4 18650 and could carry them a extras.

    Just a note. The chargers I bought are incredibly slow. Like a good 8-9 hours per pair. Thankfully I took Pucked up's advice and bought 2.

    The ones I got charge 18560 and 16340. I had 16340 for another light and it just made sense. I would avoind that charger. I think I read it runs ar 550ma.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    East of Toronto, Pickering / Ajax area. Lots of great trails just a short drive or about an hours ride away!
    I'm in Caledon, right next to Albion Hills and Palgrave. Lots of singletrack out the door.

  25. #75
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    If anyone is up for a dangerous night ride, come up to Owen Sound.

    Some of the stuff I run into. Its about 25ft deep

  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    I'm in Caledon, right next to Albion Hills and Palgrave. Lots of singletrack out the door.
    Lucky you!

    I've only rode Albion once a few years back an O'cup race I think it was. Miss the 24hrs event this year but family members took part in it and had a blast. Came 2nd in their group class. Didn't have these lights ready for that event and didn't know that the Hot Aug Night race was cancelled. I was looking forward to that one which these lights were made for. Oh well next year.

  27. #77
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    So I just got my meter on my drivers and they are only running at 2.3a at best. From there it does go down after a few min to 2.285 ish. I assume this is a heat issue.

    This is the driver that I subbed in as the original was out if stock.

    They are still bright but I had a feeling they could do more. I guess this is a "get what you pay for" type thing. Now to find a true 3 amp driver

  28. #78
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    Thanks for the update. Wonder if there is a way to mod this driver so it pushes out closer to 3A?

    The first set of lights I created was with the older driver, I don't think it was at 3A also. Side by side they both seem to have the same output. Yeah we get what we pay for, but it is still a lot of light for the price.

  29. #79
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    Exactly!! No complaints here. Its kinda nice to know theres more room in there

    The taskled stuff looks awsone, just wasnt in the budget for a first light.

  30. #80
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    Driver with a middle mode.

    I am going to build one of these regardless but does anybody know of a driver with a higher low mode of a 4 mode driver with a middle mode. Can these things be modified by changing a resistor?

    Great design but I've got a wood lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and some carbide tools. Will not take long to clean up the threads and make that pretty as well as usefull .

  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Lucky you!

    I've only rode Albion once a few years back an O'cup race I think it was. Miss the 24hrs event this year but family members took part in it and had a blast. Came 2nd in their group class. Didn't have these lights ready for that event and didn't know that the Hot Aug Night race was cancelled. I was looking forward to that one which these lights were made for. Oh well next year.
    I was there this year, along wit 6 light sets for my team and other friends. Not often you see an offroad recumbent on the podium there.

    I used 1 xm-l on my helmet and a second floodier one on the bars.

  32. #82
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    cool white or neutral?

    I was all set to order some LED's to build one of these and don't have the knowledge to select between a cool and neutral LED. I asked my son if he knew anything about LED and he replied "Dad get the neutral, your not cool". Anybody have a more scientific approach to making this choice?

  33. #83
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    Neutral will be a more daylight type lighting. The cool will produce more lumens but have a more blueish tint.

    I went with cool and it looks just fine on the trails.

  34. #84
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    Color temp is a personal preference. Sunlight is ~5780K for reference and would be considered truly "white" light.

    Cree XM-L color temp is rated like this:

    Cool white is between 5000K and 8300K. This produces from white to slightly blue-white light.
    Neutral white is between 3700K to 5000K. This produces slightly yellow-white to white.
    Warm white is between 2600K and 3700K. Thsi produces a pretty yellow-white light.

    In automobile lighting, my eyes prefer light between 5000K and 6500K. Based on my experience with automotive lighting, I selected cool white LEDs for my build. Cool or neutral should be fine, but I wouldn't want the warm white personally speaking.... it is far too yellow.... of course, warm white would penetrate foggy conditions better than the others, but I don't ride in fog.
    2013 Specialized Camber Comp
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  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by hugh088 View Post
    I am going to build one of these regardless but does anybody know of a driver with a higher low mode of a 4 mode driver with a middle mode. Can these things be modified by changing a resistor?

    Great design but I've got a wood lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and some carbide tools. Will not take long to clean up the threads and make that pretty as well as usefull .
    The TaskLed drivers can be programmed to whatever you'd like. I run mine on Multimode, 5 levels of brightness equally spaced visually, with a 3A max. There are other modes where you set each level yourself.

    I like the neutral tints, even though the lumen count is less. Better depth perception.

  36. #86
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    Most commercial LED systems use a cool white LED, it's a higher temperature colour, and it's definitely got a bluish hue to it.

    This is my experience: The neutral is a much more natural colour, it is a little warmer in tone. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages. The cool has a slightly better throw length; it seems like it projects deeper into the woods, but at the same time, it washes colours out a lot, so you lose contrast. The neutral doesn't seem quite as bright, but it gives a much more accurate colour illumination, so the contrast seems sharper.
    I like them both, but personally, I prefer the neutral.

  37. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biggles604 View Post
    The neutral doesn't seem quite as bright, but it gives a much more accurate colour illumination
    This is correct for most LEDs, including the XM-Ls. Here's a good short article on typical white LEDs and color rendering. The picture of the spectra in the center of the article is worth a thousand words and explains why neutrals show colors/contrast/depth better.

  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by hugh088 View Post
    I was all set to order some LED's to build one of these and don't have the knowledge to select between a cool and neutral LED. I asked my son if he knew anything about LED and he replied "Dad get the neutral, your not cool". Anybody have a more scientific approach to making this choice?

    This is cool white on the trail.


    This is Neutral white on the trail.


    Both of the pictures the lights are on high mode. As other have said, it's really your choice as which one you want to use. I've use and like both, but I do end up using the cool light set more often.

  39. #89
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    Are those identical lights, except for the tint? Also it 'appears' that maybe the cool white is pointed down a little which may affect it's appearance of, or lack thereof, throw. I have to say I can see why some builder's love the neutral white. It's not as impressive at first glance but it does look more 'natural'.

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    Are those identical lights, except for the tint? Also it 'appears' that maybe the cool white is pointed down a little which may affect it's appearance of, or lack thereof, throw. I have to say I can see why some builder's love the neutral white. It's not as impressive at first glance but it does look more 'natural'.
    Yes both lights are using xml's. Powered by the same driver and type of batteries. You're right, I had the cool light pointed down more. I've always wanted to re-do the shoot but don't have any time right now.

  41. #91
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    Has anyone tried sourcing parts from big box stores? I found some items at Home Depot I will try once the LED and driver arrive.

    Halex 3/4 in. Rigid Conduit Coupling

    Taymac 3/4 in. Metal Closure Plugs, Gray (4-Pack)

    I still have a problem trying to find something local to replace the R32 condulet but I'll see what I can do with reducer bushings and possibly some threaded conduit.
    Halex 1 in. x 3/4 in. Reducing Bushing
    Halex 3/4 in. x 1/2 in. Reducer Bushing

    I will also look into some water tight compression joints once the parts arrive.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong - I am no electricitian by any means but I thought conduit was non-conductive which is why its used for housing electrical wires.

    Btw, great write up!

    EDIT: Grainger carries fittings in aluminum
    POWER FIRST Rigid Conduit Coupling, 3/4 In, Alum
    Last edited by Koollata; 10-30-2012 at 05:28 PM.

  42. #92
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    Well the ones you listed are steel. So yes they will be conductive. Also as far as I know aluminum is much better at conducting heat and would be a better choice.

  43. #93
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    Yeah aluminum has a much higher heat conductance than steel, but would it be significant in this application without being finned? I think the bigger advantage of aluminum in this case would be the weight savings.

    (Not trying to sound argumentative - just trying to learn)

  44. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koollata View Post
    Yeah aluminum has a much higher heat conductance than steel, but would it be significant in this application without being finned? I think the bigger advantage of aluminum in this case would be the weight savings.

    (Not trying to sound argumentative - just trying to learn)
    Your biggest issue is not so much the heat that the led is producing. You'll be moving and as you are riding your bike will cool the housing. The biggest issue as you've already said is weight. The parts you'll be using is 4 - 5x the weight I've listed. If you can make this work, it's fine if you'll be using them on your handle bars. It will be too heavy to use as a helmet light.

    If there is no Westburne where you live, try Fastenal. The 3/4" coupling part #0749523

    R32 KILLARK CONDULET

    Fastenal seem to be more of an international company.

  45. #95
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    Thanks for clarifying!

  46. #96
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    Try an electrical supply store that deals with electricians. They got it or can get it and they are all over the place. I got my parts in 10 minutes at the shop across the road from the Home Depot after spending twice that long digging through shelves at HD and trying to find someone to help me. Might have spent an extra 50 cents buying it there but the guy behind the counter gave me some good advice and pulled a wire off something and said it was what I wanted for the wire to the battery. He gave it to me for free. Of course my wife was with me and now I be spending a couple of hundred replacing fixtures in the kitchen.

  47. #97
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    Just wanted to add some voltage info.

    Did a large night ride and got about 3.3h of mostly high. Just got back to the car as it kicked from high to low. Still not 100% sure it was a voltage thing. When I git home the batteries were stilat 3.5v each. This was without load. I will get a with load reading just to see if they dipped down alot more.

  48. #98
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    Oh, I have to build this! The results look excellent!

  49. #99
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    Does the remote switch have the high and low settings built in? I didn't see anything about that in the build, but all the photos of the lights in action show high and low settings...

  50. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by schraderlp View Post
    Does the remote switch have the high and low settings built in? I didn't see anything about that in the build, but all the photos of the lights in action show high and low settings...
    It's a click switch. On and off, but you can half press it to get a momentary interruption of power. This momentary off is what switches modes.

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