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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinv89 View Post
    I've finally found some suppliers in the UK to supply the conduit...I'll be ordering tomorrow and getting my first like underway!
    Where did you get them from and how much did they cost?

    Cheers
    Paul

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    Just wanted to add some voltage info.

    Did a large night ride and got about 3.3h of mostly high. Just got back to the car as it kicked from high to low. Still not 100% sure it was a voltage thing. When I git home the batteries were stilat 3.5v each. This was without load. I will get a with load reading just to see if they dipped down alot more.
    I finally replaced my broken multimeter today. I tested the voltage on a fresh set of batteries and this is what i got.

    No load - 16.7v
    On high - 16.2v
    On low - 16.5v

    I haven't had a chance to go night riding the last couple of wks. I'll test them again after i go for a good night ride.

  3. #103
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    Great light!

    I misplaced my last set of DIY lights in a move, so I'm very happy to find this design. It's got everything that I like... bright, low cost and requiring few tools. I ordered parts today for two lights. It looks like they will take a lot less time to assemble than my past lights.

    However, I have one question... Is anyone using rubber o-rings to mount their lights like the Dinotte style lights? It seems like this light is well suited for it.

    Like this: DIY Dinotte Style

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbeans View Post
    Great light!

    I have one question... Is anyone using rubber o-rings to mount their lights like the Dinotte style lights? It seems like this light is well suited for it.

    Like this: DIY Dinotte Style
    I haven't tried it, but I can't see why it won't work. Good luck on the build and keep us posted.

  5. #105
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    Im pretty happy with the cheapy dx mounts posted in the build. The lights are nice and small and dont move around.

    With a longer light they are not so good.

  6. #106
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    I ordered that mount, and I'm planning on trying it for the bar. I'll probably try the rings too and see which one suits me best. I'll definitely be trying to figure out a good way to get that light low on my helmet too. I think the rubber o-rings will help with that.

    Thanks for the replies. I'll share a picture if I figure out anything that could advance the cause. Based on shipping from Hong Kong, I'm guessing it will be a while before I start piecing things together.

  7. #107
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    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonCorp View Post
    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?
    This design only draws approximately 750mA through the switch.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonCorp View Post
    The switches you are using are rated at 1.5A while the batteries you have are 2.5A.

    Have you run into any issues with them?
    I have not had any issues with this switch. I asked this question in another thread here and I was told as long as I keep the switch between the batteries and driver everything should be fine.

    You can use another type of switch, but I wanted to keep the cost down to a minimum for this build.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I finally replaced my broken multimeter today. I tested the voltage on a fresh set of batteries and this is what i got.

    No load - 16.7v
    On high - 16.2v
    On low - 16.5v

    I haven't had a chance to go night riding the last couple of wks. I'll test them again after i go for a good night ride.
    Update:
    It was a nice night today so a few buddies and I went for a ride for about 1.75hrs. I had my lights on high 100% of the ride. Got home and kept the lights on high until it drop to low. The light switched around the 3 hr 20mins mark. Measured and batteries with the following results.

    No Load - 13.76v
    Low - 13.20v
    On High, started at 12.10v and rapidly drop to 11.89v (cut to low) then remained at 4.32v.

    So at ~3.5hrs ride time on high, I would recommend a re-charge with these batteries. Still not bad for a low budget build.

    I've order some quality batteries and will re-run this test when they arrive. My guess is that I may only get another 60mins with them. So I don't know if the extra cost is worth it.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I have not had any issues with this switch. I asked this question in another thread here and I was told as long as I keep the switch between the batteries and driver everything should be fine.

    You can use another type of switch, but I wanted to keep the cost down to a minimum for this build.
    That is what I thought but just wanted to double check. I have all the supplies coming. I have enough for two, after I get them built I will be looking into machining my own housings.

  12. #112
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    Thats almost exactly what I got. 3h 23min and they both kicked to low.

    They run twice as long as my friends light, and im abke to run on bigh the whole time while he is constantly switching down.

    Its been a great light. How hot did they get just sitting with no air flow? I didnt have good thermal paste, so I have been alittle weary leaving them on indoors.

    And the weather was amazing yesterday. I opted for a day ride as my riding partner was working nights. My area is not the kind of trails you want to be flying through the trails at night alone. Let us know how the better batteries work. I would love to get some task led driver to run a full 3a but there is enough output as they are and I dont want to lose run time.

    This is some of te studf I "run into" at night.



    Yes there is a trail through the moss. It was grippier then I though.
    Last edited by machine4321; 11-12-2012 at 07:47 AM.

  13. #113
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    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  14. #114
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    Great thread!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.
    I agree. Last time I ordered from them it was a massive pain Took almost a month!
    2012 GT Force 2.0

  15. #115
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    Marwi mount.

    2x3/4 inch piece of thick plastic cutting board.
    Drill three 1/4 inch holes.
    Two cable ties...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Very Easy XM-L Build-easyxml_marwi_small.jpg  


  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    How hot did they get just sitting with no air flow?

    There is a fan blowing on high just in-front of the light. It gets warm a bit that's all.


    Quote Originally Posted by zarniwoop42 View Post
    Marwi mount.
    NICE!
    Are you able to tilt the light down with that mount?

    I like the helmet mount! Got to try that one.


    Handle bar mount Update:
    I'm using these now for the handle bars.


    Bought at MEC (mountain equipment Co-op) $3.50. I like these as the light sit low to the handle bars. I had to sand off some plastic off the base to get the zip ties through. Works great and are firmly attached to the bars.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    Can anyone recommend an alternative source for the DX stuff?
    Please include a link for the driver.

    I'm OK with paying a little more to save 3 weeks of delivery time.

    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!
    Awesome.
    Thanks
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Don't know where else to get the DX stuff. But as for drivers, if you're willing to pay more and have more features from the driver you can go with Taskled driver. The B3Flex is the one I would go with and can be found here

    You can order as of tomorrow. Good Luck on the build!
    What do you mean by, "more features"?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  20. #120
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    Programable output. Status led to know at what state you voltage is at. I think there is thermal cutoffs and low voltage cutoffs as well.

  21. #121
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    [QUOTE=pucked up]
    NICE!
    Are you able to tilt the light down with that mount?

    Yes it tilts. There is a bar mount also.
    Leave a base on the bars and the helmet.
    I like being able to slide the light off and back on without the need to adjust the angle every time.

    Btw, thanks for posting this build. It's easy enough that I can do it.

  22. #122
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    A little heads up here.
    If, like me, you ordered the housing parts from Fastenal, their condulet has a larger opening; too large to hold the optic in. It holds the optic holder but not the optic itself. You will need to either leave the optic holder tabs in place or glue the optic to the holder if using this condulet.
    I found out when I put the whole thing together and the optic fell out the front.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  23. #123
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    Lol. Mine is loose but wont fall out. Was it the killark r32 number?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    Lol. Mine is loose but wont fall out. Was it the killark r32 number?
    Yup, the one linked on page 3 or 4
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  25. #125
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    Hmmm...it's weird that the opening is larger when bought from Fastenal.

    To get a tight fit over the optics, first screw down the R32 to the optics before screwing it to the main body.

  26. #126
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    I still need to put a dab of glue on mine as they rattle abit.

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Hmmm...it's weird that the opening is larger when bought from Fastenal.
    .
    I know, especially considering they're labeled as Killark R32, just like the Westburne sourced piece.
    Oh well, not a big deal. Just have to add a bit of super glue to the holder.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  28. #128
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    Another noob question. The driver just seems to sit in the housing. Am I correct in assuming that it's OK for any part of it (other than the actual soldered + & - connections) to contact the housing?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  29. #129
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    I stuffe some light foam in there just to hold it in place. The sides o the driver are not conductive. But you are right, the solder joint would cause some issues.

  30. #130
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    So the coil making contact isn't a problem?
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    So the coil making contact isn't a problem?
    How long is the coil?

    There should be no issues. If you're worried you can cover the contacts with silicone. The contact points are on a flat surface and it's almost impossible for both to make contact to a round surface.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    How long is the coil?.
    The large gold coil on the driver.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  33. #133
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    The wire on the coil has a thin "varnish" for insulation. If that rubs through to the housing it may cause trouble if the housing is not grounded. It will cause trouble if it rubs and the housing. Is grounded. Insulate the coil(and glue it to the board if it is not already) for best reliability.
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 11-17-2012 at 01:56 PM. Reason: Improve clarity

  34. #134
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    I always thought that thing was a heatsink for the driver. But so far it hasn't cause me any issues. My first set of light I made I just have the driver sitting inside the body. I've also made them where I have paste the driver (the coil part) to the bottom of the Cup 2 slug opposite of the LED.

    With the driver and all the wires, there really isn't much room for it to move around in there.

  35. #135
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    That's the induction coil:

    Inductor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  36. #136
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    Just a thought; is there anything in the driver that needs heat dissipation?
    What I'm considering is just dipping the whole driver (after soldering the leads, of course) in plastic dip.
    This would seal the entire assembly.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  37. #137
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    God dammit.
    After waiting three #$@^**&% weeks for DX to get me the damn driver, I'm soldering it up and one of the leads pulls out of it.
    No way in hell do I have the soldering technique (or eyes to even see where it's supposed to go) to get this thing back together.
    FAWK!
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  38. #138
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    I'm not sure what will happen if you dip the driver in plastic. i'm pretty sure that the driver does heat up but never tested it when it's outside the light body.

    If you're carefull you can solder the lead back on. It happen to me twice.
    "By Your Command"

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I'm not sure what will happen if you dip the driver in plastic. i'm pretty sure that the driver does heat up but never tested it when it's outside the light body.

    If you're carefull you can solder the lead back on. It happen to me twice.
    I can't even tell where it broke off. It's the black wire.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  40. #140
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    I have an extra one and will take a picture and post it when I get home. You can use it for reference.

    Update: Here is the picture. Hope it works out for you.

    Last edited by pucked up; 11-20-2012 at 05:18 PM.
    "By Your Command"

  41. #141
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    Updated.
    "By Your Command"

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    I have an extra one and will take a picture and post it when I get home. You can use it for reference.

    Update: Here is the picture. Hope it works out for you.

    Awesome, thanks

    Edit: Damn, that's tight
    Last edited by roxtar; 11-21-2012 at 07:52 AM.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    Cool build.

    Instead of the coupler and second plug could you use two of the Condulet's and join them with the one plug in the middle?


    After this tuck the driver up tight to the plug then screw on a second Condulet to cover the driver. You would need to make a little plate to close up the end of the housing. some thin plastic sheet cut round and glued in with silicone.

    Housing would end up a bit smaller and the thread would provide surface area to act as heat sink.

    There would be no single smooth surface to mount, but perhaps file one side flat to tap screw hole for a mount.

    I need to build a couple lights for an event in September, this gives me ideas.

    Anyone know what the height of a modified Regina is vs these Carlco and holders? I have some Regina's I had ordered to use in a sled design.
    Hi Shirk

    Were you able to source any of these parts in your (our) area?

    Jake

  44. #144
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    This is cool! Thanks for posting!

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    Just a question (apologies as I'm a newb),
    can you use a lipo to power this?
    I'm still waiting on my bike to arrive (Cube LTD Pro)... and i'm looking around for lights and accesories and ideas.
    Thanks
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on its way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    Just a question (apologies as I'm a newb),
    can you use a lipo to power this?
    I'm still waiting on my bike to arrive (Cube LTD Pro)... and i'm looking around for lights and accesories and ideas.
    Thanks
    Power will be determine by the driver that you use for your build. The one I use for this build will accept batteries with input voltage from 6v - 18v. So if your lipos are within this range, then you can use them.
    "By Your Command"

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeS View Post
    Hi Shirk

    Were you able to source any of these parts in your (our) area?

    Jake
    I have not yet sourced the parts locally. There are a couple electrical supply houses here on the North Shore that should have them, I just have not stopped in. I ordered some drivers AGES ago that just finally arrives late last week. I am debating between this style housing or getting some aluminium with the right ID and copying one of odtexas's style builds.

    Now that I finally have all the guts it's time to get on it.

  48. #148
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    Charging batteries

    Hi all,
    Just getting all my parts ordered for my light build, just wondering what the best charger would be? Are you taking the batteries (18650) out of the case and charging them in a separate charger, or is there a charger you can just plug the battery pack into?

    Thanx, Paul
    Blades don't need reloading

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by akpauly86 View Post
    Hi all,
    Just getting all my parts ordered for my light build, just wondering what the best charger would be? Are you taking the batteries (18650) out of the case and charging them in a separate charger, or is there a charger you can just plug the battery pack into?

    Thanx, Paul

    Hey ak,

    With my batteries, I charge them in a separate charger. The one I'm using I got from DX and can be found here.


    I have 2 chargers so that I can charge four batteries at once.
    "By Your Command"

  50. #150
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    [QUOTEWith my batteries, I charge them in a separate charger. The one I'm using I got from DX and can be found here.


    I have 2 chargers so that I can charge four batteries at once.][/QUOTE]

    Thanx pucked up!

    Pauly
    Blades don't need reloading

  51. #151
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    DX has sold out out of the driver - do you know of any alternatives?
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on its way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  52. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    DX has sold out out of the driver - do you know of any alternatives?
    See page 3, post# 52
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  53. #153
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    Hey awesome! Thank you!

    Can I get all the parts from DX? Instead of different places especially the LED?
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on its way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  54. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    Hey awesome! Thank you!

    Can I get all the parts from DX? Instead of different places especially the LED?
    You can get all the electronic parts from DX as well as the LED. But the parts for the housing can not be bought at DX so use the two companies from page 1.
    "By Your Command"

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    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Very Easy XM-L Build-img_0133.jpg  

    Very Easy XM-L Build-img_0134.jpg  


  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    You can get all the electronic parts from DX as well as the LED. But the parts for the housing can not be bought at DX so use the two companies from page 1.
    Thanks. Any chance of a link? I know nothing about LEDs - or is there a specific model/type/spec I should be looking for?
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on its way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.
    That looks neat!
    Cannondale Flash 1 Alloy (May 01 2013)
    Cube LTD Pro 2012 16" on its way (Nov 25 2012 Ordered)

  58. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.
    Nice job.
    By making it that compact you may be able to attach the mounting to the rear cap. That way you can mount it toward the front of your helmet, pointing straight out, similar to some of the Niterider models.
    This would keep everything nice and low.
    Last edited by roxtar; 11-28-2012 at 09:02 AM.
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  59. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.

    Nice! I wish I had the gear to cut grooves into the coupler.

    Give us an update when it's all done.
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  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    Thanks. Any chance of a link? I know nothing about LEDs - or is there a specific model/type/spec I should be looking for?
    I don't have any links on DX for the LEDs as I did not get mine from there. If you want to get your LEDs from DX, I would stick with XM-L Leds.
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  61. #161
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  62. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    From these great ideas I have modified it somewhat. I cut both the coupler and plug in half which allows plenty of space for the optics, star, and driver. I then capped the end with pvc plug. With battery connecting wire but without switch (coming soon) it only weighs 75 gms and is 4 cm long. Also cut some grooves in coupler for better heat transfer.
    I planned on doing something similar. I figured I would use a plastic rear plug, too (cuz the aluminum ones are so expensive) and was thinking of cutting the grooves. I have a wood lathe with a crappy cross-slide, and I think I can cut grooves. I didn't think about shortening the whole thing, but my aluminum parts aren't here yet to play with. How cramped is it with 1/2 the body length?
    I ordered it all from Zorotools, and it shouyld be here today or tomorrow. I have all the electronic parts.

  63. #163
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    Thank you! I'm on my way!
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  64. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    Thank you! I'm on my way!
    Keep in mind, many are looking for ways to cut out DX, not add to what they get from them.
    Shipping times from DX average about 2-3 weeks in my experience. That's the cost for their prices
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  65. #165
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    Continued build

    Here is the completed build. Plenty of room for switch and wires so I ran the battery wire thru the bottom as the only switch I had was moderately large and it was easier to just mount it in the back plastic cap. Notice that I cut down both the threads and back of the cap. Completed unit without battery weighs 80 grams. I used EL134's driver which is simple small,cheap, and which I have set for 3 modes.
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    Nice!

    What did you use to mount it to your helmet strap?

    Also, what did you use to cut the parts? Table saw? Ban saw?
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  67. #167
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    I use the Marwi mounts and I found these aluminum rods which fit perfectly. They have male end and female end. Found them at local hardware store in drawer marked "screen door" parts. I then just drilled hole in middle of rod and in coupler and mounted with screw.

    As for equipment, I cut off the coupler and plugs with a lathe, but it could be done easily with a course toothed hacksaw and then the cut trued with aluminum file (a great and useful tool).
    I held the pieces easily by screwing them onto a steel pipe.

    Took the light for it's first ride last nite and it did great. In the 40's and just got a little warm to the touch. I have built several lights including using the Easy2LED units and this is much easier to work with, cheaper,.just as light, and more room to work in. . It is very nice not to do the soldering in a hole. The moveable heat sink is great!
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  68. #168
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    Just finished mine:



    I machined a different body to work with my replay camera mount.

    Thanks again, pucked
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  69. #169
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    Nice looking light roxtar but I would be really careful trying to fly anywhere with that thing. DId someone say pipe b0mb?

    I flew to NZ last year for a couple of days of riding with a large group of mates. On the way home we are sitting in Rotorua airport waiting to board and my name gets called out to come to security. Whilst they knew I had a bike bag they didn't like the profile the xray returned of my luggage bag that contained my batteries and all of the leads. Once I confirmed that it was what they expected, batteries for my bike lights, and emptied my luggage to show them there was no problem and they were very relaxed about it all.

  70. #170
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    Would this be a good switch for this project?
    Component - Switch: switch with 13.2V regulator & LED Indicator for HID Bike-lighting (1' long)

    Also, is the Trailtech connector shown here the same as the Magicshine shown here?
    Action-LED-Lights — 1m Extension Cable
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  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    Here is the completed build. Plenty of room for switch and wires so I ran the battery wire thru the bottom as the only switch I had was moderately large and it was easier to just mount it in the back plastic cap. Notice that I cut down both the threads and back of the cap. Completed unit without battery weighs 80 grams. I used EL134's driver which is simple small,cheap, and which I have set for 3 modes.
    First off, awesome write-up phucked. Thanks!

    mfos - Nice play on the design. I am interested in your power modifications. First off, what battery you are using and the wiring choice. I assume that battery is rechargeable? What is it and what time do you get on high power? I like that style of plug. I thought about using SAE but your choice is smaller. What did you use?

    I liked phucked's idea of 4 batts but would prefer a more weather tight/durable case for the batteries since I tend to fall from time to time retaining the ability to charge of course.

    Pretty new to the battery thing and could use some direction.

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    Battery /Wire choice

    I am a weight weenie so am going for the most simple setup that is cheap to make. For helmet lights I use one Li-Ion 18650 3.6v battery (yes it is rechargeable) which gives me about an hour on high (2800ma) and more than three hours on medium (800ma). I carry a spare battery to use if needed. The photo shows battery prior to being coated with Plasti Dip.

    For Bar light use same setup but have a 2 battery pack. The combo gives me plenty of light.
    In fact when I get back to the vehicle the truck lights look dim by comparison.

    The connectors are MS connectors and can be found on DX. I get the ones with the split connector as this lets me do an extra battery.
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    mfos - Love your helmet battery. Makes perfect sense to keep it lightweight. I assume you are soldering the leads onto the batteries. Any issues w/ doing this? I have heard others say this isn't an issue w/ a decent powered solder station, just wondering if you have any tips. Thanks.

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post
    I am a weight weenie so am going for the most simple setup that is cheap to make. For helmet lights I use one Li-Ion 18650 3.6v battery (yes it is rechargeable) which gives me about an hour on high (2800ma) and more than three hours on medium (800ma). I carry a spare battery to use if needed. The photo shows battery prior to being coated with Plasti Dip.

    For Bar light use same setup but have a 2 battery pack. The combo gives me plenty of light.
    In fact when I get back to the vehicle the truck lights look dim by comparison.

    The connectors are MS connectors and can be found on DX. I get the ones with the split connector as this lets me do an extra battery.
    Thanks my friend. Just what I needed.

    Nice and simple... easy on the head and a spare could be switched out easily. I guess it depends on light output. Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?

  75. #175
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    mfos - Love your helmet battery. Makes perfect sense to keep it lightweight. I assume you are soldering the leads onto the batteries. Any issues w/ doing this? I have heard others say this isn't an issue w/ a decent powered solder station, just wondering if you have any tips. Thanks.
    Not a problem ANDY13. Just work quickly and of course use eye protection.

    Nice and simple... easy on the head and a spare could be switched out easily. I guess it depends on light output. Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?
    TJWilly - Others would be much more knowledgeable than me about this but it is my understanding that brightness is a determined more by amperage than voltage which is determined by settings in the driver. One LED drawing 2800ma uses one battery faster than two.....etc. Lots of good expert discussions here on that on these forums. My driver only supports 3.6v (charged to 4.2v) and a high setting drawing 2800ma., so I keep it simple.

  76. #176
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    Hi There
    Im new to charging 18650's can I use a Swallow EQ Charger i have for model planes to charge a pack fof 4x 2800mah @ 14.4 V in the battery holder mentioned here in this thread?

  77. #177
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    Had some time over the weekend, I didn't do any biking so I build a couple more lights. This time I ended up using some parts I didn't use in the original build. I replace the Cup 2 slug at the bottom with the sliding closet door thingy that's on page one with a cable gland through it.



    Basically I drilled a 1/2" hole into the closet door thing so that the cable gland would fit through it. Sanded out some of the retaining nut from the gland so it would fit inside the depression of the closet thingy. Lock the gland into place and place it into the light body. You'll have to lighty hammer out some of the closet thingy sides to make it stay in place. Everything else is the same.

    These were parts I had that I couldn't use on my first build. I wanted to put the cable gland through the Cup 2 but was too thick. I would have to cut the Cup 2 but can't seem to find my hacksaw!

    The cable gland was bought from DX, 10 pack was about $5.

    It's great to see the different ideas people come up with, with this build. Great Job!
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  78. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWilly View Post
    Meaning, if you went 2s1p would your light be brighter?
    If you use a 2S1P pack with the driver that mfos is using, you'll burn it out as it can only have an input voltage of 3.7V (4.2v fully charged). The number of batteries you use will depend on the driver you use. The driver I use in this build will take anywhere from 6v - 18v.

    So if you use a 2S1P with this build, you'll get about 2hrs run time on high. Using a 4S1P will double that, give or take.

    If you want the light to be brighter, that'll depend on the drivers output. A driver with a 3000mA output will be brighter that one that only has a 2000mA output. The driver on this build was measured by machine and it puts out about 2300mA, which is more than enough for me.
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  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfos View Post

    TJWilly - Others would be much more knowledgeable than me about this but it is my understanding that brightness is a determined more by amperage than voltage which is determined by settings in the driver. One LED drawing 2800ma uses one battery faster than two.....etc. Lots of good expert discussions here on that on these forums. My driver only supports 3.6v (charged to 4.2v) and a high setting drawing 2800ma., so I keep it simple.
    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    If you use a 2S1P pack with the driver that mfos is using, you'll burn it out as it can only have an input voltage of 3.7V (4.2v fully charged). The number of batteries you use will depend on the driver you use. The driver I use in this build will take anywhere from 6v - 18v.

    So if you use a 2S1P with this build, you'll get about 2hrs run time on high. Using a 4S1P will double that, give or take.

    If you want the light to be brighter, that'll depend on the drivers output. A driver with a 3000mA output will be brighter that one that only has a 2000mA output. The driver on this build was measured by machine and it puts out about 2300mA, which is more than enough for me.
    Thanks guys. I understand now.

  80. #180
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    you guys will need to start selling these as i'd love to have one!!!
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  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muscleflex View Post
    you guys will need to start selling these as i'd love to have one!!!
    I was thinking of selling them at first. But after looking at some options from overseas, it would not be in my best interest to do so. I'll most likely loose time / money in the end. Which is why I just laid it all out for everyone to build their own.
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  82. #182
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    Yay for chinas ability to demotivate the little guy for once it helped.

    Im pretty thankfull you posted the build. Got the ball rolling for me to get my feet wet.

    If your ever near collingwood or owensound, let me know. We can gonfor a ride.

  83. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    Yay for chinas ability to demotivate the little guy for once it helped.

    Im pretty thankfull you posted the build. Got the ball rolling for me to get my feet wet.

    If your ever near collingwood or owensound, let me know. We can gonfor a ride.
    Wasn't really demotivated. Just wasn't worth my time selling. For me to sell these say for around $100 + shipping, you can get some nice lights at that price from Action LED or GloWorm.

    Glad everyone that has tried this build has been successful so far. The hardest part is waiting for parts to arrive from DX!

    I'll let you know if and when I'll be in Collingwood, may not be for another six months bike wise. Time to get my snowboard out!

    Hmmm...night snowboarding?
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  84. #184
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    [B]Panasonic 18650 update[B\]

    I got some quality brand cells (Panasonic 3100mah protected 18650) from DX. I learn that these are real Panasonic's cell which another company then installs the PCB on them. This info can be found here .

    I only test the run times on high and the results are:

    4 cells - 4.75hrs
    3 cells - 3hrs 50mins

    Test was done in front of a fan running on medium and light body was cool to the touch.

    Sorry no test for 2 cells, I do not have a 2 cell battery holder. But I would say you'll get a little over 2hrs run time on them. Overall not bad.

    Is it worth the extra price? That's up to you.

    4 x Panasonic 3100mah cells = $35.20 (4.75hrs run time)
    4 x Trustfire 2500mah cells = $13.88 (3.5hrs run time, rounded up)
    Difference = $21.32 (1.25hrs)

    With the driver I use for this build only pushing out ~2300ma I would likely stay with the Trustfire cells. If the driver was pushing out ~2500 - 3000ma I would go with the Panasonic cells for the longer run times.

    Future test: Taskled driver, sometime next year. Maybe!
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  85. #185
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    Thanks for the runtimes on the better cells. I am going to try the 3x xml ebay cheapy with a task led at 3amp and an 8 cell pack(I like at least 3 hours for night rides as we tend to explore)

    For the price of the trustfires they have very decent run times.

  86. #186
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    Has anyone found a good USA source for 18650s that are reasonably priced? Reading about an issue with China and airfreight with Li-Ion batteries may mean a delay???? (this was in the other light forum about BAK batteries)

    I ordered stuff from DX over 3 weeks ago and still hasn't showed up..... hopefully before Christmas so I can tinker on my first light. (driver and switch) Can't imagine how much more of a delay with the Li-Ion news.....

    I haven't ordered any battery components and won't until I have a driver in hand, just incase it doesn't show up! Darn- I should have ordered the batteries 3 weeks ago with the rest
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  87. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by beecrazy View Post
    Has anyone found a good USA source for 18650s that are reasonably priced? Reading about an issue with China and airfreight with Li-Ion batteries may mean a delay???? (this was in the other light forum about BAK batteries)
    I got these sources from another thread here. I haven't purchased from them since I'm currently well-stocked on DX batteries, but may get a couple Panasonics in the near future.

    2 Panasonic 3100s for $19 seems decent, with free shipping:
    New 2X Panasonic 18650 3 6V 3100mAh Rechargeable Li ion Battery 2 NCR Batteries | eBay

    (^^There is a link to the protected version of these cells in the ad.)

    Lower prices here, even with shipping, and there are options for higher or lower capacities:
    ONLY BATTERY ORDERS for YOUR BLF US-BASED BATTERY SUPPLIER | BudgetLightForum.com

  88. #188
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    Delete because not available
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  89. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by random walk View Post
    I got these sources from another thread here. I haven't purchased from them since I'm currently well-stocked on DX batteries, but may get a couple Panasonics in the near future.

    2 Panasonic 3100s for $19 seems decent, with free shipping:
    New 2X Panasonic 18650 3 6V 3100mAh Rechargeable Li ion Battery 2 NCR Batteries | eBay

    (^^There is a link to the protected version of these cells in the ad.)

    Lower prices here, even with shipping, and there are options for higher or lower capacities:
    ONLY BATTERY ORDERS for YOUR BLF US-BASED BATTERY SUPPLIER | BudgetLightForum.com
    Thanks for the quick reply, and thank you Pucked Up for kick starting my new obsession!

    I am looking forward to Very Easy XM-L Build turned not so easy....
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  90. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by beecrazy View Post
    Thanks for the quick reply, and thank you Pucked Up for kick starting my new obsession!

    I am looking forward to Very Easy XM-L Build turned not so easy....
    The BLF seller can't ship outside USA.

  91. #191
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    Deal extreme is a joke, I highly recommend you find another source. I ordered parts from them and the envelope was stuffed so full that it tore open before landing in my mail box. I lost over 40 in inventory and they want me to ask the USPS for compensation. Then the USPS is blaming the envelope being too full. Its a huge circle jerk and I'm at the back, I'm taking my business elsewhere. On a side note, OP thanks for the sweet post. Its posts like this that make mtbr enjoyable.
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  92. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    The BLF seller can't ship outside USA.
    Yeah, I wish they would to ship to Canada, cause I would buy from them in a sec!


    One thing I learn from buying from DX is to break up your order. It free shipping, so try not to have everything in one big order. 3pks of batteries is the most I would put in one order. Then create another order that is next on my list. Also I think this is their busy season so orders may take a little longer to get here!

    You guys are lucky that you're only waiting weeks. One of my orders took 3mths to arrive!
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  93. #193
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    Pucked, if we needed to we should organize a big US order some time and get one of our buddies to ship it over to Ontario. We could do Cateye mounts, DigiKey battery holders, BLF batteries...
    I've had to find various solutions over the years.

    I wish someone like Zemike could put things like this on his online store, so at least we could order from one place.

  94. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Pucked, if we needed to we should organize a big US order some time and get one of our buddies to ship it over to Ontario. We could do Cateye mounts, DigiKey battery holders, BLF batteries...
    I've had to find various solutions over the years.

    I wish someone like Zemike could put things like this on his online store, so at least we could order from one place.

    Sounds like a plan. I will not be needing anything until sometime next year. My building for this year is done.
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  95. #195
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    If I wanted to run two of these from one driver what would you recommend, also would I just run the batteries as 4S2P?

  96. #196
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    Does the DX driver in this build have temp sensing capability?
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  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonCorp View Post
    If I wanted to run two of these from one driver what would you recommend, also would I just run the batteries as 4S2P?
    You could run them that way, you'll have to wire up the two leds together. Is the purpose to use only one battery pack? If so, it may be easier to build two sets of lights, each with it's own driver and get the Y adapter so you can run both lights with only one battery pack. I use this when I ride with 2 lights on my bars.


    Quote Originally Posted by roxtar View Post
    Does the DX driver in this build have temp sensing capability?
    I don't think the DX driver has that feature, but I could be wrong.
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  98. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    You could run them that way, you'll have to wire up the two leds together. Is the purpose to use only one battery pack? If so, it may be easier to build two sets of lights, each with it's own driver and get the Y adapter so you can run both lights with only one battery pack. I use this when I ride with 2 lights on my bars.
    I was looking at building up a different housing that would hold two xml leds. I will just make a new thread as not to take this one off topic. Thanks

  99. #199
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    Hey everyone... I finished my build a few days ago. Finally got to ride tonight.

    I am impressed.

    My observations:

    1. One 2400mah battery gave me 40 something mins on high before the lamp dropped to low which is hardly usable.
    2. I used the 20mm Carlco 12.4° optics. I find with my build this to be really nice at throwing light on the trail, however, I could still use more of a spot.
    3. This is the driver I am using: https://illuminationsupply.com/8xamc...ver-p-142.html
    4. For power, I have the blue UltraFire 2400mah batts. (sourced from Amazon.com)
    5. My build is 4oz with out batteries. My (new) 3 battery pack weighs 5.5oz with a longer cable to stash in the pack.

    I used this light only. No bar light or anything else and I could ride our tight single track with zero visibility issues. (I brought a spare battery pack (a single) and switched to it along the way.) But my little light seems better suited on a bar.

    If I ever find my battery charger for the Nikon 3100, I'll take some proper beam pics.

    Can y'all make any recommendations to help me get a better spot out of this light?

    Thanks.

    Pics:







    Cut an old tube to wrap the batteries.


    Once I get a lathe, I would turn down and face off the conduit to improve appearance. Maybe shorten the rear plug a bit.

  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWilly View Post
    Can y'all make any recommendations to help me get a better spot out of this light?
    If you have room (depth) for a Regina reflector, it may tighten it up some. My experience with Carclo optics is they always seem to have more flood than the spec's would indicate. The Regina is 20mm diameter so that should fit. It is deeper than the Carclo by a bit and you will need a cover for it adding another mm or so.

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