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  1. #1
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    user programmable custom UI linear driver

    I've been having a long conversation with DrJones on BLF about driver UIs, particularly if it would be possible to program your own on his AMC7135 linear drivers. You can already buy drivers off him for $7 where you can program your own no. of modes, type of mode and power level of each mode (lupodrv) which is pretty darn neat. I have one on the way and Ofroad'bent has a couple.

    However, a couple of small downsides are that they use clicky switches (which makes remotes hard to figure out) and they have a standard torch/ flashlight UI where you have to cycle through each mode to go to the next (a la Magicshine).

    Unknown to me, he can program AMC7135 based boards to use a momentary/ tactile switch (= easy remotes and low actuation force) and he can program the UI to behave like a Taskled Threemode setting (where each click changes between Med and High, with Low accessed by a press).

    These would be for single LED/ 1S battery lights (similar to the original Lflex design ethos) and the three levels would be user programmable, so you could potentially have Strobe, Med and High if you wished

    Would there be much interest for these? I think cost would be the same as his lupodrv drivers ($7 + $2p+p), or close to, and the reason behind this post is so that he can see if there's enough interest to warrant the effort in writing the code. He's a little uncomfortable signing up as a commercial user without taking out an ad.

  2. #2
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    Sounds interesting ... By the title, I thought you were gonna give us the enchilada ... Yea, DrJones I'd be interested.

  3. #3
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    I'd be in for a 2-3. I have a couple of the standard models sitting around, but having a couple that are built for momentaries would be better. I was just about to start a couple of single XM-L builds for a couple of the locals.

  4. #4
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    Geez Matt, now you tell us! I haven't even got my existing drivers wired up yet.

    Would the new one need the momentary switch in-line like the existing one, or on a separate switch line like the Taskled drivers?
    I'm assuming the former, as there are no extra contacts for the switch.

    Probably in for a couple.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    Sounds interesting ... By the title, I thought you were gonna give us the enchilada ... Yea, DrJones I'd be interested.
    me? Hah! I don't know my ar$e from my elbow when it comes to my electronics - I have to repeat "a negative ion goes to the a negative ion abode" everytime I look at a + and - on something DrJones on the other hand appears to have forgotten more electronics than I ever knew..

    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    I'd be in for a 2-3. I have a couple of the standard models sitting around, but having a couple that are built for momentaries would be better. I was just about to start a couple of single XM-L builds for a couple of the locals.
    to be honest, this is making me think about doing a "Poormans 7135" set up for my next 2up helmet light as it would be smaller and ~$30 cheaper than an Lflex, without giving up much (battery warnings?) by way of function

    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Geez Matt, now you tell us! I haven't even got my existing drivers wired up yet.

    Would the new one need the momentary switch in-line like the existing one, or on a separate switch line like the Taskled drivers?
    I'm assuming the former, as there are no extra contacts for the switch.

    Probably in for a couple.
    Sorry Ofroad'bent, this is a conversation that's only happened over the last couple of days, mostly by me pestering him with questions. As far as I know, the momentary would be separate from the power line, much like the Taskled drivers are set up, most likely because momentary switches are usually low power (in the 10s of mA range). As for where the switch would be soldered in, I'd have to ask the esteemed DrJones

  6. #6
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    No heat management either. Still, sounds very tempting, especially if the momentary switch works like you describe. I am a fan of Multimode for multi sports, where you click up and press down through 5 modes, but Threemode would be fine for riding.

  7. #7
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    there is rudimentary heat management both built into the chips themselves (they derate as they go over a set temp threshold) and Atiny based drivers can be programmed with a set temp threshold and response, similar to the Taskled drivers, but it has to be done by flashing the chip instead of by the user.

    Note too that the Threemode style UI needs the mom switch, but I think you can also have a mom switch with the regular lupodrv programming.

    Oh, and postage is $2 for single sided boards (up to 1.4A) and $2.50 for double sided boards. Blame the anal retentive micrometer equipped Deutsche Post workers Still, better than the doubling of international rates USPS has done

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    You can actually program the little Attiny13 chips used on the "AMC7135" boards via an Arduino.

    I would take a guess that most of the info to program one of these with what bike light users want is floating around on the net.

    Info on how to flash a Attiny13 via Arduino IDE is here.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    You can actually program the little Attiny13 chips used on the "AMC7135" boards via an Arduino.

    I would take a guess that most of the info to program one of these with what bike light users want is floating around on the net.

    Info on how to flash a Attiny13 via Arduino IDE is here.
    yeah, you can get a bunch of different programs (if that's the word) for these drivers and flash them yourself, either with an arduino or using a USB flash box of some sort hooked up to your computer (How To Build a Flashlight With Perfect Modes (picture heavy) | BudgetLightForum.com). From what I've read, flashing is the easy part. It's the making everything work together without borking it up that takes the skill and knowledge, neither of which I possess in abundance

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    yeah, you can get a bunch of different programs (if that's the word) for these drivers and flash them yourself, either with an arduino or using a USB flash box of some sort hooked up to your computer (How To Build a Flashlight With Perfect Modes (picture heavy) | BudgetLightForum.com). From what I've read, flashing is the easy part. It's the making everything work together without borking it up that takes the skill and knowledge, neither of which I possess in abundance
    Oh man now you opened another rabbit hole. I didn't realize that someone has put out open code to hack these.

    I want to reflash mine to run from a momentary switch for mode change.

  11. #11
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    yep, jump on in! It's way over my head at the moment, but I'm growing more interested in it. I wouldn't have a clue how to change an Atiny board to mom switch though - that's DrJones' field

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    I've been having a long conversation with DrJones on BLF about driver UIs, particularly if it would be possible to program your own on his AMC7135 linear drivers. You can already buy drivers off him for $7 where you can program your own no. of modes, type of mode and power level of each mode (lupodrv) which is pretty darn neat. I have one on the way and Ofroad'bent has a couple.

    However, a couple of small downsides are that they use clicky switches (which makes remotes hard to figure out) and they have a standard torch/ flashlight UI where you have to cycle through each mode to go to the next (a la Magicshine).

    Unknown to me, he can program AMC7135 based boards to use a momentary/ tactile switch (= easy remotes and low actuation force) and he can program the UI to behave like a Taskled Threemode setting (where each click changes between Med and High, with Low accessed by a press).
    .
    I just finished a light with the DrJones driver. I programmed 5 modes and short term memory that returns to low from any setting, but the down sides are like Matt said.

    It's a cheap and simple way to go but I really don't like the clicky switch or mode cycle as much as the momentary switch with the l-flex.

  13. #13
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    I would be interested, pencil me in for a couple!

    Don
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  14. #14
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    I am still not up and running with my first light, but I would be up for picking up a few (say 3) of these. Momentary switch would make packaging a bit easier for the rookie.... at least IMHO.
    Fat guys need bikes too.

  15. #15
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    Here is a thread regarding firmware flashing of an Attiny13a controller for a 7135 LED driver (in Russian)
    http://forum.velomania.ru/showthread.php?t=137492

    some firmware example are already there.
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  16. #16
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    neat. Seems mostly the same info as AVR Drivers - Flashlight Wiki. I'm still working my way through Tido's original thread

    DrJones mentioned that he already has an electronic switch compatible 7135 driver, using something he calls lumodrv, but it doesn't store user programmed settings which is a no go for mtb lights. I'll have to dig through some of the old electronic switch torch threads to see how the switch was wired. I'd imagine it was to one of the Atiny's pins and then to ground (so closing the circuit pulls that pin to 0V), but I'd have to check. I need to go download the Atiny13 manual and start reading, as I'll be getting my own USBasp adapter and clip soon

  17. #17
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    just in case anyone missed it, DrJones has put all his lupodrv goodness into a tactile/ momentary switch format, added some cool "on-and-flashing" modes, a second mode group and some mtbing specific Med power levels to make it easier to tailor the Med mode to your personal liking:

    mobydrv is born - all your cycling single LED driver needs in one :)

    and
    DrJones' Custom Firmware Drivers

    and to contact him
    http://budgetlightforum.com/user/417
    or PM me and I'll pass on his email address (he doesn't want it posted to avoid spam)

    Shipping is super fast (mine took 5 working days), the drivers are what I'd call cheap ($9 to 9.50 inc. postage) and DrJones is super helpful. I haven't had time to hook mine up yet, but I'll report back when I do.

    Although it's perfect for a single LED set up, you can also do 2 LED setups either by putting the LEDs in parallel (for half the current each, so 1.5A for a 3A driver) or do a Master-Slave set up, where the DrJones board controls a second slave board (just 7135 chips) and each board drives its own LED. As none of the current is going through the switch, you can easily do a 2x XM-L @3A set up (or 3x or 4x, it's up to you!), plus you still have the benefits of a 1S battery pack (no balance charging needed, PCBs easy to find).

  18. #18
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    Got a couple on order now.
    I built a couple of lights with a Lupodrv, but they were just so-so. These sound a lot better.

    All I need now is an excuse to build more lights.

  19. #19
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    neat! The lupodrv firmware/ code is more geared towards torches/ flashlights, so I can see how it's not 100% there for mtb use. The mobydrv drivers should be almost the equivalent of an lflex in operation, with a bit more flexibility in mode no.s/ type and power levels. I'm especially keen to see how the different mid modes look and how they fit with full power - that's been one of my bugbears about Taskled drivers, L3 is always too low and L4 is often too close to L5.

  20. #20
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    I wonder if the mobydrv can be flashed in the factory. So the price may be $5 including shipping.
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  21. #21
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    I don't see why not - it's just code. You'd have to contact DrJones yourself to see if he'd be interested in something like that though.

  22. #22
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    what is the difference between the single sided board and the double sided board? Is he reflashing boards from DX?

  23. #23
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    no difference in the firmware or UI, just how many 7135 chips it can hold, which determines max current. Single sided = max 4 chips, so 1.4A (350mA chips) or 1.52A (380mA chips), double sided = max 8 chips, so 2.8 or 3.05A. You can specify max power levels in 1 chip increments (I believe, you'd have to check with him for odd no.s), so it's pretty simple to get the output level you want. If you ever want to up the power then adding those chips is a piece of cake.

    He is reflashing standard Nanjg boards, but I can say where he gets them from. I don't think it makes any difference - the only difference between boards and resellers is the firmware and he's replacing that with his own, the actual components (7135 chips, ATtiny13 controller, a capacitor and a couple of resistors) are always the same

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