Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 156

Thread: Tripple XML

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665

    GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill vs YB lathe - XXX

    It's been a while since i touched the mill..but now i have a little bit of time, i thought i best used some of the bits I have..
    So instead of buying more ali. I thought, can i make a tripple XML from a piece of 38mm square ali bar that i have.
    The only option i see is to steel a leaf out of trouties book, and mount the driver in the end of the light rather than behind the leds..sorry Chris
    This uses 3 XML's, LC1 optics with a H6flex, 10mm momentary switch and a hirschman M8 right angle connector.
    Mounts will probably be one either end so the light straddles the stem..

    Any thoughts on this design before i start the long hard slog of swearing at the mill?

    Last edited by Goldigger; 04-20-2011 at 11:32 PM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,334
    as they say, why reinvent the wheel when you can steal one off your neighbour's car

    one point though would be that you're tying yourself to reflectors with this design and troutie (and others) seem to like the optics better. might be something to think about..

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    as they say, why reinvent the wheel when you can steal one off your neighbour's car

    one point though would be that you're tying yourself to reflectors with this design and troutie (and others) seem to like the optics better. might be something to think about..
    Up north they usually swap all 4 wheels for bricks

    Sorry no reflectors in this...edited my post as i didnt state that it would be using the LC1 optics.

  4. #4
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Goldigger, the triple I've just got working was made from 40mm x 40mm bar and I the reflectors are 26mm at their widest point. If you are concerned about the overall length then I did it with the HFlex in a pocket above middle reflector.

    Happy to send you some 'Draft It" plans if you want them
    Last edited by emu26; 04-14-2011 at 03:49 PM.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    My bar is 38x38mm..
    The LC1's are 21.6mm so my cut out will probably be 22mm.
    Curious as to how you got the h6flex in a pocket, wiring it up must have been a royal pita?

  6. #6
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Yeah that probably won't fit unless the LC1's reduce in size as they get closer to the LED the same way my DX ones do. The pocket was 10mm high. This would leave you very little top and bottom for wall thickness and fins.

    PITA is correct, hence the problems. I wired the leds first and sat them in place with the front cover on to keep them secure. Poked the wires through the body and did all the switch and HFlex connections. Took the front cover back off and then, whilst holding the leds in place, slid the driver into its pocket doing my best not to jam wiring on the edges of the cut outs etc.

    I think yours / Trouites plans are better though and it has already given me an idea on how to do the XML triple with 18mm DX reflectors I have on the way.

    Edit: Goldigger it is a HipFlex I used, not a H6Flex and at 36mm is even bigger than the H6Flex

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    What are you using mount the light to the bars? I think I may steal this design as well but with a maxflex.

    Mine isn't as pretty

    Last edited by kan3; 04-15-2011 at 12:06 PM.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    What are you using mount the light to the bars? I think I may steal this design as well but with a maxflex.

    Mine isn't as pretty

    I was thinking of making my own clamps for it, not sure if i should use one full on clamp one end, and one of the oring types on the other end..

    Will be interested to see how yours comes out?

    I made a start on mine today, so far so good..

    Only problem i have is george has no h6flex's in stock

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Probably won't start mine till next week as I still have to finish some other projects on the mill. I'd like to see an update on yours though in case I want to change my design.

    His site also mentions some will be in next week which isn't too bad. When I went to order some stuff before it was a 1.5 month wait.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2,999
    Troutie's version of this design started off as a finned round bar off the lathe. Then the milling work. I have always kind of liked the design

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    I think its quite an easy design to machine, today I have:
    squared the bar
    Milled out the driver compartment
    Milled out most of the led compartment

    Now i need to set up the rotary table to round the ends of the led compartment and also mill the round part of the o-ring groove.

  12. #12
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    I think George is on holidays at the moment, from memory Scar mentioned it on another thread.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    I think George is on holidays at the moment, from memory Scar mentioned it on another thread.
    Yep no orders from 9th to 18th..
    But no stock of the h6flex till the 19th, I wonder if that date is set in stone.
    I'll just have to use a hipcc for the time being and just have one level.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Cool lets have some proper photos of work in progress

    If you get to the needing the h6flex stage and George has none I have a few here


    go minimal and make 2 nice mounts to use the bars as heat sink

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Thanks Chris, maybe take you up on the H6flex
    Ok here is what it looks like after yesterdays work..
    Roughed out most of the slot for the led's, know I'm just finishing it off on the rotary table.
    One hole done two to go, but need to mill the half circle for the o-ring groove before i start the next hole..hope that makes sense..?

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Led holes are sorted..plus the oring groove around the two end leds, just need to join them up..
    Also need to mill a channel for the wires to sit in from each led to the next. Where i have left material where the led sits in, i will mill away the tops and bottoms to create the channel.





    Driver compartment


  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    489
    Beautiful!

  18. #18
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283


    What brand of mill are you using? Yes, I'm still dreaming

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26


    What brand of mill are you using? Yes, I'm still dreaming
    It's a Sieg SX2
    http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster...9/?src=froogle

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Where do you live? The x2 is on sale through HF until July for about $399+shipping.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Where do you live? The x2 is on sale through HF until July for about $399+shipping.
    If you can afford it, id recommend the SX2 over the X2.
    SX2 gets a 500watt brushless motor over the X2 which has a standard 350watt motor, the 350 watt motor is pretty noisy.

    SX2 is also belt driven rather than the cheapo plastic gears that the X2 uses. reading a few forums, they suggest that the plastic gears are a wink link. If your cutter jams into the work it normally breaks the plastic gears.

    SX2 has varible speed, rather than 2 speed gear box on the X2

  22. #22
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    I'm in Sydney, Australia.

    The x2 sells here on ebay for around the $700 mark. In stores its north of $800. HF won't ship tools like that to me, heck they won't even respond to emails inquiring about cost of freight, strange given what the F in HF stands for. Anyway

    I did have concerns about those plastic gears, good to hear feedback on them. I'm still leaning towards the Proxxon setups but just can't justify spending that sort of money on a hobby.........at the moment.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Being stratigic didnt pay off, i done all the milling in the vice so that i would only have to swap the vice for the rotary table once.
    Was working fine until i fu@ked up the front cover on the rotary table! now i need to swap the rotary table to the vice again, and then back to the rotary table.

    Lucky i have plenty of 5mm ali plate spare!

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    A little update on todays work..
    O-ring groove and led slots finished
    Need to remove about 5mm from the left end of the body..



    New front cover and driver cover cut to size
    Bottom cover with hole in it is the front cover i messed up when i got up this morning. Dont know how it ended up so far out. Must have just crept gradually under the clamps.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Getting good with those o-ring grooves now! - So you going to use real spots (RS)? - Tried any of the others or combination of LC1?

    What are everyone's thoughts on the xm-l and LXP - (I've got quite a few).

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Quote Originally Posted by MrLee
    Getting good with those o-ring grooves now! - So you going to use real spots (RS)? - Tried any of the others or combination of LC1?

    What are everyone's thoughts on the xm-l and LXP - (I've got quite a few).
    Thanks mate
    The optic in the middle is a FA10661_LXP-RS for XPE as you know..
    The two on the outside are the LC1 RS, I've got some more LC1's coming as the LXP-RS sits a little higher than the others and is about 0.75mm to high..

    They both give pretty much the same beam.. I'm looking forward to firing all 3 up at 3amps

    Edit. Just checked, the LC1 is actually taller, I haven't drilled the hole in the holder large enough to take the square part of the led lol

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,334
    looking really good GD, can't wait to see the rest.

    Also very glad there's such an enthusiastic DIY LED community dahnunda, that way we have southern hemisphere builds appearing for your winter, just when the northern lot pack everything away for our summer

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    looking really good GD, can't wait to see the rest.

    Also very glad there's such an enthusiastic DIY LED community dahnunda, that way we have southern hemisphere builds appearing for your winter, just when the northern lot pack everything away for our summer
    It might be just me, but I don't understand why people seem to ditch the night nights in the summer, surely that's the best time to go? i.e, it's not freezing!

  29. #29
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Goldigger, about the mistake, I know exactly how you feel, but probably 10 times, yours was only a face plate

    Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.

    Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Goldigger, about the mistake, I know exactly how you feel, but probably 10 times, yours was only a face plate

    Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.

    Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round
    But I suppose we don't have to worry about what beasties are out to eat us ;-) The winter makes you appreciate the summer all the more :-)

    Ok, it gets dark later, but what could be better than a nice ride after a scorching day?

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,334
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.

    Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round
    that's right, my bad. As for the best part of the world, I think everywhere has it's + and - Here it's the winter, when I was in Melbourne it was the dust and bush fires. One day I hope to find somewhere I'm not freezing to death (here), being drowned (Bristol) or at risk of being burnt alive (Oz)! Actually, I did find it, but there the risks were kidnapping and death in general (Medellin, Colombia)!

    I dunno why people give up night riding in summer - I LOVE night riding. I guess people are just glad to be back and scrubbed up before 9pm so they can do something else that night.

    anyway, sorry for derailing the thread GD

  32. #32
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    that's right, my bad. As for the best part of the world, I think everywhere has it's + and - Here it's the winter, when I was in Melbourne it was the dust and bush fires.
    There's your problem, Melbourne isn't part of Aus, it's in another world altoghether, just like the two headed breeds we have down on that little island of the southern coast of the mainland.


  33. #33
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,693
    Looking great GD!!!
    I really like the oring groove.
    I really like the idea of getting a mill, but don't know that I have the patience to use it.....= )

    As far as night riding in summer goes........
    It is the best time IMO.
    It's when we do most of our night rides.
    I probably did 30 night rides last summer alone.
    I really don't like riding when it is much over 90F. I overheat and feel pooped pretty fast.
    So we usually start our rides at around 7-8pm in the summer.
    Gets dark around 8:30-9pm.
    Start out climbing up while it is still light out, and it is completely dark by the time we hit the descent.
    The temps are mild, and it is perfect out here at night.
    I live in Nor Cal, and it can get pretty hot during the day here in the summer.
    On the flip side, we can pretty much ride all year round.
    I only missed 2 weeks of riding this whole year due to some crazy rain we were getting, and the trails got thrashed.
    Last year, we didn't miss any days of riding.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,334
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    There's your problem, Melbourne isn't part of Aus, it's in another world altoghether, just like the two headed breeds we have down on that little island of the southern coast of the mainland.

    I dunno, 2 heads or not, you don't hear of mass flooding or towns being burnt to the ground in Tazzie. In fact, you don't hear of much at all (they do have electricity right?)!

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Finished up all the cam files for mine today. It looks like it should take me about 2 hours to make one so I should have some shots up in the next day or two. Find any issues with the design that you decided to change in case it may relate to me as well?

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Finished up all the cam files for mine today. It looks like it should take me about 2 hours to make one so I should have some shots up in the next day or two. Find any issues with the design that you decided to change in case it may relate to me as well?
    If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two
    I won't get to touch mine until the weekend so unfortunately mine won't be finished.
    Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
    They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two
    I'm actually making 4


    Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
    They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..
    I haven't started working with slopes yet inside of cam. I suppose I can try with this project as I do have a 1/4" and 3/8" ball end mill laying around. Probably screw it up and it'll look like poo.

    EDIT: Actually, I think a 90deg drill point end mill will get the result I'm looking for
    Last edited by kan3; 04-18-2011 at 02:15 PM.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two
    I won't get to touch mine until the weekend so unfortunately mine won't be finished.
    Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
    They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..
    Sorry to make a mess of your pic, but is this what you have in mind?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tripple XML-imag0086.jpg  


  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Nope, i wasn't thinking roundness...thought id leave it as a surprise so mine and Kan3 dont end up the same

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Heh

    Your light is already better in my mind as you're doing a screw down plate on the front and side. I'm just doing going to glue mine into the recess because I'm lazy.

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Here is where mine is at as of tonight. I was wrong about the time, I think it'll only take me a little over a hour to make one. I do need to adjust my tram and gibs soon as the finish is starting to show. I'll finish up the rest tomorrow when I get time.

    I wasn't paying attention on the bandsaw and cut the first one a little thin. The walls on the pocket for the maxflex are only .62mm thick.





  42. #42
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    That first pic makes it look so much bigger than it appears in the last one, the maxflex really puts it into perspective.

    But why a maxflex, that'll only give it 1500ma?

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    363
    nice job!
    you found a spot for the driver, like it.
    asymmetric, but not as deep, is good on the handlebar.
    don't have a CNC,... just a scroll-saw, and a file....
    3 XML, nice, should get toasty ...
    I'll try to add heatsink surface to mine, and probably reduce power consumption.
    anybody got a good place, for anodizing ? or is powdercoat an option ?

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Looking good Kan3...
    What led's and optics/reflectors are you putting in yours?
    I was looking at mine last night trying to work out the best way of getting the wiring in from the driver to the leds, there isnt much room with a H6Flex in it.
    Should get some more of mine done tonight as its a night off the gym, also got friday as its a bank holiday here in the uk.

    I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    But why a maxflex, that'll only give it 1500ma?
    It's just going to be a 3up xpg setup. I have a lot of spares from a project that went a different direction. Need to use them up.

    Quote Originally Posted by rschultz101
    anybody got a good place, for anodizing ?"
    In about a week or two I'm sending some stuff out to be hardcoat type3 anodized in black. If you have anything you want done you could send them to me. It should only be about $10-15 a part where most places have a $100-150 minimum on hardcoat.

    Quote Originally Posted by goldigger=
    Looking good Kan3...
    What led's and optics/reflectors are you putting in yours?
    3up r4 neutral with reginas


    I was looking at mine last night trying to work out the best way of getting the wiring in from the driver to the leds, there isnt much room with a H6Flex in it.
    I just planned to drill a hole between the too compartments and run 2 strands of 22awg wire between them. The maxflex will have a small piece of aluminum epoxied to its pad so it'll sit up off the wall a little bit and let wires around it.


    I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill
    I don't want you to feel like I'm thread crapping or anything.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,665
    Here's a little bit of progress from tonight..
    Milled the holes in the front cover, didn't plan to mill all 3 holes round. I was going to just cut either end and then mill the middle part out to join them up creating a big slot.
    But as i seemed to have nailed the rotary table i cut all three.


    Probably not the most accurate way to cut the holes next to each other, heres's how i cut all 3 holes on the rotary table:
    1.With the front cover in the vice, zero the piece to x and y, move to the centre of the first hole, drill, move to next drill, move to next drill.
    2.tap the 3rd hole, work backwards and tap the other two.
    3.Remove vice, mount and centre the rotary table.
    4.With the tap back in the chuck, screw it into one of the holes on the cover, making sure the end of the tap clears the top of the rotay table.
    5.Bring the spindle/z axis down so that the piece/cover is pressed down against the surface of the rotary table, then clamp the piece down where it sits.

    Like i said probably not the most accurate, but as i dont have a 4 jaw chuck to mount to my rotary table, i have to improvise a little

    Milled the rear of the cover for the 0.75mm lexan sheet, just need to tidy up the 4 bits pointing inwards to straighten the inner edge..



    All i need to do is drill and tap all the holes in both covers, then mill some fins and drill holes for the cables to go from the driver into the led compartment.

  47. #47
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,537
    Looking pretty sweet GD. Great to see more chips flying in the spare room and the mill being put through it's paces.

    All i can say is that the triple @ 3 amps is a light cannon so you won't be dissapointed.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill
    Make that plus YB micro lathe, I fancy a challenge. Hope you don't mind but it should show the many ways to skin a rabit.

    I'll start in the morning. Not done a drawing yet so could be a busy night. Lathe might be a bit it too small though
    Last edited by yetibetty; 04-20-2011 at 08:08 PM.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    You running at 7x12?

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Nope, Taig Micro lathe.

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •