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GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill vs YB lathe - XXX
It's been a while since i touched the mill..but now i have a little bit of time, i thought i best used some of the bits I have..
So instead of buying more ali. I thought, can i make a tripple XML from a piece of 38mm square ali bar that i have.
The only option i see is to steel a leaf out of trouties book, and mount the driver in the end of the light rather than behind the leds..sorry Chris
This uses 3 XML's, LC1 optics with a H6flex, 10mm momentary switch and a hirschman M8 right angle connector.
Mounts will probably be one either end so the light straddles the stem..
Any thoughts on this design before i start the long hard slog of swearing at the mill?
Last edited by Goldigger; 04-20-2011 at 10:32 PM.
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as they say, why reinvent the wheel when you can steal one off your neighbour's car 
one point though would be that you're tying yourself to reflectors with this design and troutie (and others) seem to like the optics better. might be something to think about..
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 Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
as they say, why reinvent the wheel when you can steal one off your neighbour's car
one point though would be that you're tying yourself to reflectors with this design and troutie (and others) seem to like the optics better. might be something to think about..
Up north they usually swap all 4 wheels for bricks 
Sorry no reflectors in this...edited my post as i didnt state that it would be using the LC1 optics.
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Goldigger, the triple I've just got working was made from 40mm x 40mm bar and I the reflectors are 26mm at their widest point. If you are concerned about the overall length then I did it with the HFlex in a pocket above middle reflector.
Happy to send you some 'Draft It" plans if you want them
Last edited by emu26; 04-14-2011 at 02:49 PM.
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My bar is 38x38mm..
The LC1's are 21.6mm so my cut out will probably be 22mm.
Curious as to how you got the h6flex in a pocket, wiring it up must have been a royal pita?
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Yeah that probably won't fit unless the LC1's reduce in size as they get closer to the LED the same way my DX ones do. The pocket was 10mm high. This would leave you very little top and bottom for wall thickness and fins.
PITA is correct, hence the problems. I wired the leds first and sat them in place with the front cover on to keep them secure. Poked the wires through the body and did all the switch and HFlex connections. Took the front cover back off and then, whilst holding the leds in place, slid the driver into its pocket doing my best not to jam wiring on the edges of the cut outs etc.
I think yours / Trouites plans are better though and it has already given me an idea on how to do the XML triple with 18mm DX reflectors I have on the way.
Edit: Goldigger it is a HipFlex I used, not a H6Flex and at 36mm is even bigger than the H6Flex
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mtbr member
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What are you using mount the light to the bars? I think I may steal this design as well but with a maxflex.
Mine isn't as pretty
Last edited by kan3; 04-15-2011 at 11:06 AM.
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Originally Posted by kan3
What are you using mount the light to the bars? I think I may steal this design as well but with a maxflex.
Mine isn't as pretty
I was thinking of making my own clamps for it, not sure if i should use one full on clamp one end, and one of the oring types on the other end..
Will be interested to see how yours comes out?
I made a start on mine today, so far so good..
Only problem i have is george has no h6flex's in stock
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Probably won't start mine till next week as I still have to finish some other projects on the mill. I'd like to see an update on yours though in case I want to change my design.
His site also mentions some will be in next week which isn't too bad. When I went to order some stuff before it was a 1.5 month wait.
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Troutie's version of this design started off as a finned round bar off the lathe. Then the milling work. I have always kind of liked the design
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I think its quite an easy design to machine, today I have:
squared the bar
Milled out the driver compartment
Milled out most of the led compartment
Now i need to set up the rotary table to round the ends of the led compartment and also mill the round part of the o-ring groove.
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I think George is on holidays at the moment, from memory Scar mentioned it on another thread.
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Originally Posted by emu26
I think George is on holidays at the moment, from memory Scar mentioned it on another thread.
Yep no orders from 9th to 18th..
But no stock of the h6flex till the 19th, I wonder if that date is set in stone.
I'll just have to use a hipcc for the time being and just have one level.
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Cool lets have some proper photos of work in progress
If you get to the needing the h6flex stage and George has none I have a few here
go minimal and make 2 nice mounts to use the bars as heat sink
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Thanks Chris, maybe take you up on the H6flex
Ok here is what it looks like after yesterdays work..
Roughed out most of the slot for the led's, know I'm just finishing it off on the rotary table.
One hole done two to go, but need to mill the half circle for the o-ring groove before i start the next hole..hope that makes sense..?
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What brand of mill are you using? Yes, I'm still dreaming
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Originally Posted by emu26
What brand of mill are you using? Yes, I'm still dreaming
It's a Sieg SX2
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster...9/?src=froogle
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Where do you live? The x2 is on sale through HF until July for about $399+shipping.
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Originally Posted by kan3
Where do you live? The x2 is on sale through HF until July for about $399+shipping.
If you can afford it, id recommend the SX2 over the X2.
SX2 gets a 500watt brushless motor over the X2 which has a standard 350watt motor, the 350 watt motor is pretty noisy.
SX2 is also belt driven rather than the cheapo plastic gears that the X2 uses. reading a few forums, they suggest that the plastic gears are a wink link. If your cutter jams into the work it normally breaks the plastic gears.
SX2 has varible speed, rather than 2 speed gear box on the X2
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I'm in Sydney, Australia.
The x2 sells here on ebay for around the $700 mark. In stores its north of $800. HF won't ship tools like that to me, heck they won't even respond to emails inquiring about cost of freight, strange given what the F in HF stands for. Anyway
I did have concerns about those plastic gears, good to hear feedback on them. I'm still leaning towards the Proxxon setups but just can't justify spending that sort of money on a hobby.........at the moment.
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Being stratigic didnt pay off, i done all the milling in the vice so that i would only have to swap the vice for the rotary table once.
Was working fine until i fu@ked up the front cover on the rotary table! now i need to swap the rotary table to the vice again, and then back to the rotary table.
Lucky i have plenty of 5mm ali plate spare!
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mtbr member
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Getting good with those o-ring grooves now! - So you going to use real spots (RS)? - Tried any of the others or combination of LC1?
What are everyone's thoughts on the xm-l and LXP - (I've got quite a few).
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