Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 100 of 156

Thread: Tripple XML

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669

    GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill vs YB lathe - XXX

    It's been a while since i touched the mill..but now i have a little bit of time, i thought i best used some of the bits I have..
    So instead of buying more ali. I thought, can i make a tripple XML from a piece of 38mm square ali bar that i have.
    The only option i see is to steel a leaf out of trouties book, and mount the driver in the end of the light rather than behind the leds..sorry Chris
    This uses 3 XML's, LC1 optics with a H6flex, 10mm momentary switch and a hirschman M8 right angle connector.
    Mounts will probably be one either end so the light straddles the stem..

    Any thoughts on this design before i start the long hard slog of swearing at the mill?

    Last edited by Goldigger; 04-20-2011 at 10:32 PM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,342
    as they say, why reinvent the wheel when you can steal one off your neighbour's car

    one point though would be that you're tying yourself to reflectors with this design and troutie (and others) seem to like the optics better. might be something to think about..

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    as they say, why reinvent the wheel when you can steal one off your neighbour's car

    one point though would be that you're tying yourself to reflectors with this design and troutie (and others) seem to like the optics better. might be something to think about..
    Up north they usually swap all 4 wheels for bricks

    Sorry no reflectors in this...edited my post as i didnt state that it would be using the LC1 optics.

  4. #4
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Goldigger, the triple I've just got working was made from 40mm x 40mm bar and I the reflectors are 26mm at their widest point. If you are concerned about the overall length then I did it with the HFlex in a pocket above middle reflector.

    Happy to send you some 'Draft It" plans if you want them
    Last edited by emu26; 04-14-2011 at 02:49 PM.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    My bar is 38x38mm..
    The LC1's are 21.6mm so my cut out will probably be 22mm.
    Curious as to how you got the h6flex in a pocket, wiring it up must have been a royal pita?

  6. #6
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Yeah that probably won't fit unless the LC1's reduce in size as they get closer to the LED the same way my DX ones do. The pocket was 10mm high. This would leave you very little top and bottom for wall thickness and fins.

    PITA is correct, hence the problems. I wired the leds first and sat them in place with the front cover on to keep them secure. Poked the wires through the body and did all the switch and HFlex connections. Took the front cover back off and then, whilst holding the leds in place, slid the driver into its pocket doing my best not to jam wiring on the edges of the cut outs etc.

    I think yours / Trouites plans are better though and it has already given me an idea on how to do the XML triple with 18mm DX reflectors I have on the way.

    Edit: Goldigger it is a HipFlex I used, not a H6Flex and at 36mm is even bigger than the H6Flex

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    What are you using mount the light to the bars? I think I may steal this design as well but with a maxflex.

    Mine isn't as pretty

    Last edited by kan3; 04-15-2011 at 11:06 AM.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    What are you using mount the light to the bars? I think I may steal this design as well but with a maxflex.

    Mine isn't as pretty

    I was thinking of making my own clamps for it, not sure if i should use one full on clamp one end, and one of the oring types on the other end..

    Will be interested to see how yours comes out?

    I made a start on mine today, so far so good..

    Only problem i have is george has no h6flex's in stock

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Probably won't start mine till next week as I still have to finish some other projects on the mill. I'd like to see an update on yours though in case I want to change my design.

    His site also mentions some will be in next week which isn't too bad. When I went to order some stuff before it was a 1.5 month wait.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,305
    Troutie's version of this design started off as a finned round bar off the lathe. Then the milling work. I have always kind of liked the design

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    I think its quite an easy design to machine, today I have:
    squared the bar
    Milled out the driver compartment
    Milled out most of the led compartment

    Now i need to set up the rotary table to round the ends of the led compartment and also mill the round part of the o-ring groove.

  12. #12
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    I think George is on holidays at the moment, from memory Scar mentioned it on another thread.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    I think George is on holidays at the moment, from memory Scar mentioned it on another thread.
    Yep no orders from 9th to 18th..
    But no stock of the h6flex till the 19th, I wonder if that date is set in stone.
    I'll just have to use a hipcc for the time being and just have one level.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Cool lets have some proper photos of work in progress

    If you get to the needing the h6flex stage and George has none I have a few here


    go minimal and make 2 nice mounts to use the bars as heat sink

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Thanks Chris, maybe take you up on the H6flex
    Ok here is what it looks like after yesterdays work..
    Roughed out most of the slot for the led's, know I'm just finishing it off on the rotary table.
    One hole done two to go, but need to mill the half circle for the o-ring groove before i start the next hole..hope that makes sense..?

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Led holes are sorted..plus the oring groove around the two end leds, just need to join them up..
    Also need to mill a channel for the wires to sit in from each led to the next. Where i have left material where the led sits in, i will mill away the tops and bottoms to create the channel.





    Driver compartment


  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    489
    Beautiful!

  18. #18
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283


    What brand of mill are you using? Yes, I'm still dreaming

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26


    What brand of mill are you using? Yes, I'm still dreaming
    It's a Sieg SX2
    http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster...9/?src=froogle

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Where do you live? The x2 is on sale through HF until July for about $399+shipping.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Where do you live? The x2 is on sale through HF until July for about $399+shipping.
    If you can afford it, id recommend the SX2 over the X2.
    SX2 gets a 500watt brushless motor over the X2 which has a standard 350watt motor, the 350 watt motor is pretty noisy.

    SX2 is also belt driven rather than the cheapo plastic gears that the X2 uses. reading a few forums, they suggest that the plastic gears are a wink link. If your cutter jams into the work it normally breaks the plastic gears.

    SX2 has varible speed, rather than 2 speed gear box on the X2

  22. #22
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    I'm in Sydney, Australia.

    The x2 sells here on ebay for around the $700 mark. In stores its north of $800. HF won't ship tools like that to me, heck they won't even respond to emails inquiring about cost of freight, strange given what the F in HF stands for. Anyway

    I did have concerns about those plastic gears, good to hear feedback on them. I'm still leaning towards the Proxxon setups but just can't justify spending that sort of money on a hobby.........at the moment.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Being stratigic didnt pay off, i done all the milling in the vice so that i would only have to swap the vice for the rotary table once.
    Was working fine until i fu@ked up the front cover on the rotary table! now i need to swap the rotary table to the vice again, and then back to the rotary table.

    Lucky i have plenty of 5mm ali plate spare!

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    A little update on todays work..
    O-ring groove and led slots finished
    Need to remove about 5mm from the left end of the body..



    New front cover and driver cover cut to size
    Bottom cover with hole in it is the front cover i messed up when i got up this morning. Dont know how it ended up so far out. Must have just crept gradually under the clamps.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Getting good with those o-ring grooves now! - So you going to use real spots (RS)? - Tried any of the others or combination of LC1?

    What are everyone's thoughts on the xm-l and LXP - (I've got quite a few).

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by MrLee
    Getting good with those o-ring grooves now! - So you going to use real spots (RS)? - Tried any of the others or combination of LC1?

    What are everyone's thoughts on the xm-l and LXP - (I've got quite a few).
    Thanks mate
    The optic in the middle is a FA10661_LXP-RS for XPE as you know..
    The two on the outside are the LC1 RS, I've got some more LC1's coming as the LXP-RS sits a little higher than the others and is about 0.75mm to high..

    They both give pretty much the same beam.. I'm looking forward to firing all 3 up at 3amps

    Edit. Just checked, the LC1 is actually taller, I haven't drilled the hole in the holder large enough to take the square part of the led lol

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,342
    looking really good GD, can't wait to see the rest.

    Also very glad there's such an enthusiastic DIY LED community dahnunda, that way we have southern hemisphere builds appearing for your winter, just when the northern lot pack everything away for our summer

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    looking really good GD, can't wait to see the rest.

    Also very glad there's such an enthusiastic DIY LED community dahnunda, that way we have southern hemisphere builds appearing for your winter, just when the northern lot pack everything away for our summer
    It might be just me, but I don't understand why people seem to ditch the night nights in the summer, surely that's the best time to go? i.e, it's not freezing!

  29. #29
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Goldigger, about the mistake, I know exactly how you feel, but probably 10 times, yours was only a face plate

    Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.

    Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Goldigger, about the mistake, I know exactly how you feel, but probably 10 times, yours was only a face plate

    Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.

    Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round
    But I suppose we don't have to worry about what beasties are out to eat us ;-) The winter makes you appreciate the summer all the more :-)

    Ok, it gets dark later, but what could be better than a nice ride after a scorching day?

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,342
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Matt, he's in the UK, not downunder.

    Mr lee, those of us Downunder live in the best part of the world, perfect night riding weather all year round
    that's right, my bad. As for the best part of the world, I think everywhere has it's + and - Here it's the winter, when I was in Melbourne it was the dust and bush fires. One day I hope to find somewhere I'm not freezing to death (here), being drowned (Bristol) or at risk of being burnt alive (Oz)! Actually, I did find it, but there the risks were kidnapping and death in general (Medellin, Colombia)!

    I dunno why people give up night riding in summer - I LOVE night riding. I guess people are just glad to be back and scrubbed up before 9pm so they can do something else that night.

    anyway, sorry for derailing the thread GD

  32. #32
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    that's right, my bad. As for the best part of the world, I think everywhere has it's + and - Here it's the winter, when I was in Melbourne it was the dust and bush fires.
    There's your problem, Melbourne isn't part of Aus, it's in another world altoghether, just like the two headed breeds we have down on that little island of the southern coast of the mainland.


  33. #33
    Dirt Deviant
    Reputation: savagemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,693
    Looking great GD!!!
    I really like the oring groove.
    I really like the idea of getting a mill, but don't know that I have the patience to use it.....= )

    As far as night riding in summer goes........
    It is the best time IMO.
    It's when we do most of our night rides.
    I probably did 30 night rides last summer alone.
    I really don't like riding when it is much over 90F. I overheat and feel pooped pretty fast.
    So we usually start our rides at around 7-8pm in the summer.
    Gets dark around 8:30-9pm.
    Start out climbing up while it is still light out, and it is completely dark by the time we hit the descent.
    The temps are mild, and it is perfect out here at night.
    I live in Nor Cal, and it can get pretty hot during the day here in the summer.
    On the flip side, we can pretty much ride all year round.
    I only missed 2 weeks of riding this whole year due to some crazy rain we were getting, and the trails got thrashed.
    Last year, we didn't miss any days of riding.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,342
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    There's your problem, Melbourne isn't part of Aus, it's in another world altoghether, just like the two headed breeds we have down on that little island of the southern coast of the mainland.

    I dunno, 2 heads or not, you don't hear of mass flooding or towns being burnt to the ground in Tazzie. In fact, you don't hear of much at all (they do have electricity right?)!

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Finished up all the cam files for mine today. It looks like it should take me about 2 hours to make one so I should have some shots up in the next day or two. Find any issues with the design that you decided to change in case it may relate to me as well?

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Finished up all the cam files for mine today. It looks like it should take me about 2 hours to make one so I should have some shots up in the next day or two. Find any issues with the design that you decided to change in case it may relate to me as well?
    If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two
    I won't get to touch mine until the weekend so unfortunately mine won't be finished.
    Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
    They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two
    I'm actually making 4


    Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
    They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..
    I haven't started working with slopes yet inside of cam. I suppose I can try with this project as I do have a 1/4" and 3/8" ball end mill laying around. Probably screw it up and it'll look like poo.

    EDIT: Actually, I think a 90deg drill point end mill will get the result I'm looking for
    Last edited by kan3; 04-18-2011 at 01:15 PM.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    If its only taking you two hours to make one, why arnt you making two
    I won't get to touch mine until the weekend so unfortunately mine won't be finished.
    Nothing changed so far although I do have some ideas how to make it look less square.
    They will be the finishing touches when I do the finning..
    Sorry to make a mess of your pic, but is this what you have in mind?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tripple XML-imag0086.jpg  


  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Nope, i wasn't thinking roundness...thought id leave it as a surprise so mine and Kan3 dont end up the same

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Heh

    Your light is already better in my mind as you're doing a screw down plate on the front and side. I'm just doing going to glue mine into the recess because I'm lazy.

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Here is where mine is at as of tonight. I was wrong about the time, I think it'll only take me a little over a hour to make one. I do need to adjust my tram and gibs soon as the finish is starting to show. I'll finish up the rest tomorrow when I get time.

    I wasn't paying attention on the bandsaw and cut the first one a little thin. The walls on the pocket for the maxflex are only .62mm thick.





  42. #42
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    That first pic makes it look so much bigger than it appears in the last one, the maxflex really puts it into perspective.

    But why a maxflex, that'll only give it 1500ma?

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    373
    nice job!
    you found a spot for the driver, like it.
    asymmetric, but not as deep, is good on the handlebar.
    don't have a CNC,... just a scroll-saw, and a file....
    3 XML, nice, should get toasty ...
    I'll try to add heatsink surface to mine, and probably reduce power consumption.
    anybody got a good place, for anodizing ? or is powdercoat an option ?

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Looking good Kan3...
    What led's and optics/reflectors are you putting in yours?
    I was looking at mine last night trying to work out the best way of getting the wiring in from the driver to the leds, there isnt much room with a H6Flex in it.
    Should get some more of mine done tonight as its a night off the gym, also got friday as its a bank holiday here in the uk.

    I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    But why a maxflex, that'll only give it 1500ma?
    It's just going to be a 3up xpg setup. I have a lot of spares from a project that went a different direction. Need to use them up.

    Quote Originally Posted by rschultz101
    anybody got a good place, for anodizing ?"
    In about a week or two I'm sending some stuff out to be hardcoat type3 anodized in black. If you have anything you want done you could send them to me. It should only be about $10-15 a part where most places have a $100-150 minimum on hardcoat.

    Quote Originally Posted by goldigger=
    Looking good Kan3...
    What led's and optics/reflectors are you putting in yours?
    3up r4 neutral with reginas


    I was looking at mine last night trying to work out the best way of getting the wiring in from the driver to the leds, there isnt much room with a H6Flex in it.
    I just planned to drill a hole between the too compartments and run 2 strands of 22awg wire between them. The maxflex will have a small piece of aluminum epoxied to its pad so it'll sit up off the wall a little bit and let wires around it.


    I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill
    I don't want you to feel like I'm thread crapping or anything.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Here's a little bit of progress from tonight..
    Milled the holes in the front cover, didn't plan to mill all 3 holes round. I was going to just cut either end and then mill the middle part out to join them up creating a big slot.
    But as i seemed to have nailed the rotary table i cut all three.


    Probably not the most accurate way to cut the holes next to each other, heres's how i cut all 3 holes on the rotary table:
    1.With the front cover in the vice, zero the piece to x and y, move to the centre of the first hole, drill, move to next drill, move to next drill.
    2.tap the 3rd hole, work backwards and tap the other two.
    3.Remove vice, mount and centre the rotary table.
    4.With the tap back in the chuck, screw it into one of the holes on the cover, making sure the end of the tap clears the top of the rotay table.
    5.Bring the spindle/z axis down so that the piece/cover is pressed down against the surface of the rotary table, then clamp the piece down where it sits.

    Like i said probably not the most accurate, but as i dont have a 4 jaw chuck to mount to my rotary table, i have to improvise a little

    Milled the rear of the cover for the 0.75mm lexan sheet, just need to tidy up the 4 bits pointing inwards to straighten the inner edge..



    All i need to do is drill and tap all the holes in both covers, then mill some fins and drill holes for the cables to go from the driver into the led compartment.

  47. #47
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Looking pretty sweet GD. Great to see more chips flying in the spare room and the mill being put through it's paces.

    All i can say is that the triple @ 3 amps is a light cannon so you won't be dissapointed.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    I should change the name of my thread to something like GD Manual mill vs Kan3 CNC mill
    Make that plus YB micro lathe, I fancy a challenge. Hope you don't mind but it should show the many ways to skin a rabit.

    I'll start in the morning. Not done a drawing yet so could be a busy night. Lathe might be a bit it too small though
    Last edited by yetibetty; 04-20-2011 at 07:08 PM.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    You running at 7x12?

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Nope, Taig Micro lathe.

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Finished the unit
    Came in at 103g without the holes drilled for mount and wiring




  52. #52
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Absolutely fantastic GD. Love the little signature engraving on the end.

    I have the opposite problem YB, my lathe is often too big and i can't fit it in the back shed


  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    Make that plus YB micro lathe, I fancy a challenge. Hope you don't mind but it should show the many ways to skin a rabit.

    I'll start in the morning. Not done a drawing yet so could be a busy night. Lathe might be a bit it too small though
    Done...changed the title, shame it doesn't change the thread name

    Be interested to see How far you are by the end of today..and How the mini lathe performs.

    Come on board troutie, we just need you to make one as well now

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Done...changed the title, shame it doesn't change the thread name

    Be interested to see How far you are by the end of today..and How the mini lathe performs.

    Come on board troutie, we just need you to make one as well now

    Already got mine as you may have seen





    #


    I have been looking at it to see if I can enlarge the led cavity to fit in the square optics but dont think I have enough meat for it to be successful.

    liking the work you are all doing though but sadly my day job is getting in the way of making chips .

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Already got mine as you may have seen





    #


    I have been looking at it to see if I can enlarge the led cavity to fit in the square optics but dont think I have enough meat for it to be successful.

    liking the work you are all doing though but sadly my day job is getting in the way of making chips .
    ha ha thats cheating..
    I know where you are coming from with the day job getting in the way, thats the exact reason why I havent been up to much lately.

    You could always swap the reginas for LC1's?

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Finished the unit
    Came in at 103g without the holes drilled for mount and wiring



    I never noticed your post.. didnt get an email saying my thread had been updated..

    Looks good, yours will probably be a lot lighter than mine..How are you going about the covers and mounts?

    Wish i had cnc, would make some of the process eaiser than turning the wheel a million times. Especially when it comes to milling the fins, I imagin that that is quiet an easy bit of code to write as its generally repetative.

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    How are you going about the covers and mounts?
    I'm going to use one of those mount kits I found in the supply sticky. I don't know if its a good idea to use aluminum mounts on our CF bars? On the bottom of the unit you can see a spot where I left some space to drill/tap for whatever screw it comes with. For the covers I need to order some more acrylite and then I'll toss a piece on the mill and have it cut out the covers for me. I may make a aluminum plate for the cap on the side if I get bored instead of the plastic.

    Wish i had cnc, would make some of the process eaiser than turning the wheel a million times. Especially when it comes to milling the fins, I imagin that that is quiet an easy bit of code to write as its generally repetative.


    Well, you bought a good mill if you ever want to covert it. It's probably the most popular mill converted to cnc so it has a ton of kits available for it. Total machine run time was about 40min with no effort to optimize it or use the faster pulleys for a better IPM. It took me longer to export everything to .dxf and make the cam files for the parts. Doing the cam files would probably take you a few times and then you'd get the hang of it rather easily.



    I definitely like the look of the lathed part better. I also like the switch on the opposite side of the driver compartment.

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Ok today didn't go as planned as I forgot it was Easter weekend so had to paint the living room (under orders).

    I am going to start the light now but only have an hour to spare. Will continue tomorrow.
    Last edited by yetibetty; 04-22-2011 at 09:13 PM.

  59. #59
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    YB, just say your going out to the shed to wash the paint brushes and do a bit of turning each time. She'll be finished in no time

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Quote Originally Posted by brad72
    YB, just say your going out to the shed to wash the paint brushes and do a bit of turning each time. She'll be finished in no time
    That's the problem..... my lathe is in the spare room

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Yeti get some paint slapped on and do some turning whilst it dries.


    OK might as well join in on this thread
    Decided to rework the light and while it is not a triple it is sort of
    did a little remachining could not get 4 square optics in so am going for 2 xmls and 2 xpgs with the xpgs as a parallel pair they will see 1.5 amps when the xmls get 3 amps .

    the XPGs will be Reginas and the xml will be Lauras



    just need to work out the wiring next .



    Edit Flipping heck it lights up
    Last edited by troutie-mtb; 04-22-2011 at 11:45 AM.

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Here's mine so far...just need to make i look sexy and drill holes for the switch and cable socket..

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Got a bit carried away between coats.
    Last edited by yetibetty; 04-22-2011 at 09:07 PM.

  64. #64
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    wow guys, those are some great looking lights. I can feel myself getting the itch for another light.

  65. #65
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    +1 Brad, some very nice looking housings coming along here.

    You boys have had me up half the night search this interwebby thing for something that will let me join the party. I'm getting closer, I think.

    Nice work guys, keep it up

    Chris, did you test the beam with the xpg / xml mix? I have to say I am super impressed with mine, first time I haven't slowed on a down hill section because of lack of light, just lack of skill

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Hey Goldigger, what made you change your mind with the now single slot face plate?
    Looking very nice BTW.

    I may have got some measurements wrong while rushing mine.

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Hmmm

    Mine is lacking the sexy compared to everyone elses unit. I'll have to figure out something for the last one I do to bring the sexy back.

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Hmmm

    Mine is lacking the sexy compared to everyone elses unit. I'll have to figure out something for the last one I do to bring the sexy back.
    At least your parts fit inside

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    +1 Brad, some very nice looking housings coming along here.

    You boys have had me up half the night search this interwebby thing for something that will let me join the party. I'm getting closer, I think.

    Nice work guys, keep it up

    Chris, did you test the beam with the xpg / xml mix? I have to say I am super impressed with mine, first time I haven't slowed on a down hill section because of lack of light, just lack of skill


    Nope no test just built it blind so to speak got the optics in last night and will finish it today
    while waiting for my daughter to make me a granddad she has been in labour all night so should be soon .









    What you done Yetibetty not left enough meat for the led cavity ??
    Last edited by troutie-mtb; 04-23-2011 at 01:27 AM.

  70. #70
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Hey congrats Pops, fingers crossed it finishes smoothly for her. My wife was over 30 hrs for our first, got progressively faster for the next two.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by betty
    Hey Goldigger, what made you change your mind with the now single slot face plate?
    Looking very nice BTW.

    I may have got some measurements wrong while rushing mine.
    I thought it looked a bit retro and reminded me of a traffic light lol..
    Plus I needed to save a few grams somewhere.

    Thanks

    Yours is looking very cool to, I need to get me a tail stock and 3 jaw chuck so I can turn my mill into a lathe

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation: znomit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,906
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Hey congrats Pops, fingers crossed it finishes smoothly for her. My wife was over 30 hrs for our first, got progressively faster for the next two.
    Yeah good stuff Trout! We pop ours out in about an hour

    Triple XML content... replacing my Quad XRE dyno with a triple XML. Should have the same lumens.

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    What you done Yeti not left enough meat for the led cavity ??troutie
    I was really pleased that I cut the all of the fins in the time it took me to have a cup of tea, then went back to painting the living room. Next time I looked I realized that I had cut the fins 3mm too deep.

    Are you a Grandad yet?

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Quote Originally Posted by betty
    I was really pleased that I cut the all of the fins in the time it took me to have a cup of tea, then went back to painting the living room. Next time I looked I realized that I had cut the fins 3mm too deep.

    Are you a Grandad yet?


    Nope not yet

    is it screwed or can you get round it anyways .

    Congrats Znomit

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    The plan to do one like yours will mean starting again, which I will today.

    But I could stuff 3 XM-Ls in the fat bit that's in the chuck and make a fancy torch.

    I'll start again and use the balls up to make a single with an Lflex.

  76. #76
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    like you said yeti you could always fit 3 x 10mm diameter boards in the hole and use a triple xre optic like the light i made. There only about 30mm diameter from memory and give a pretty good beam

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Quote Originally Posted by brad72
    like you said yeti you could always fit 3 x 10mm diameter boards in the hole and use a triple xre optic like the light i made. There only about 30mm diameter from memory and give a pretty good beam

    I just fancy a change as I have made far to many mr11(ish) lights in the past.

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Quote Originally Posted by betty
    The plan to do one like yours will mean starting again, which I will today.

    But I could stuff 3 XM-Ls in the fat bit that's in the chuck and make a fancy torch.

    I'll start again and use the balls up to make a single with an Lflex.

    I did not do the fins on the lathe.
    I cut out the led /optic recess on the mill
    after I had made the driver and switch bits on the lathe. then milled the fins so they follow the square shape

    what is the diameter of the bit left over. is it larger than 50 mm
    reason I have a couple of Ledil Rocket 3 optics on their way to try out with the xml
    they worked very well with the MCE s

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    I have been trying to work out how you did it on the lathe...now I know

    The fat bit in the chuck is 45mm.

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Here's mine after an hour today..
    Still quiet a bit to do with the fins..



  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    Nice stepped fins, good way to keep the weight down.

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Cheers Chris, That pic made me laugh..wasn't expecting to see it..

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    That is a good idea
    Cad time

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Cheers Chris, That pic made me laugh..wasn't expecting to see it..

    Funny it does bear a striking resemblance to me and the lumen hound only just realised cos just back in from a walk in the dark with him .

    It would look smaller and lose a bit of weight if you took the corners off in line with the fins



    I know mine is a cheat and only a technical triple xml in output only but got a beam shot
    at the haunted house which is my test for throw as the woods dont have the distance and was pretty blown away with the result the 2 xpgs really add to the quality of the beam
    the distance to the house is approx 160 metres .



    I will need to go through my old beam shots but from memory that is one of the best for lighting up that house .
    even when I had retreated down the field another 100 metres it still lit it up .


    waiting with anticipation for your beam shots soon

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    I just took some more off the rear..going from left ro right, notice that i have not milled the 8th slot or gone full depth on the 9th slot.
    I'm wondering if i should put the M8 hirschmann cable gland there?


    The corners arn't finished yet, they were just roughly done for now.

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    I just fancy a change as I have made far to many mr11(ish) lights in the past.
    Strange i missed a load of posts..
    People having babies...congrats guys..
    And a nice pair of lights yeti

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    373
    nice !
    curious , can you put on a scale ?
    any guess on SQ inches of surface, wondering about the cooling ?
    maybe a laser temp measurement.
    this is going to be one groovy light !
    cheers

  89. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,310
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    I just took some more off the rear..going from left ro right, notice that i have not milled the 8th slot or gone full depth on the 9th slot.
    I'm wondering if i should put the M8 hirschmann cable gland there?


    The corners arn't finished yet, they were just roughly done for now.
    Love the lighting in that shot off the body and the swarf. Very artsy.

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Some more progress.. at the moment I'm at 200grams roughly (dont have digital scales)



    Chris, where did you get the router bit you used to bevel the edges on your batteries inside light?

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation: piesoup's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    454
    I can see a trend happening here!

    I have started my light at last, its a Triple plus one. Three xmls from a hipflex and a single xml from a bflex. I have a circuit to control both drivers to prevent over heating to for auto on / off for stop / starting. Its fully customisable via usb and a Atmel Dragon. I wont be using the pump/fan output so I can get it alot smaller, hopefully fit it inside the light. At the mo, it will live in a little carbon box under the stem. Light on bars, straddling the stem.

    Its gonna take AGES to finish as I can only take off 0.1mm in the fins, there are loads of them and they are 8mm deep.





    As you can see, I've used various setups to get it right! Need to buy a mill...

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Another quick update..
    Driver will now be on the left side rather than the right..


  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    489
    Astonishing work GD! Every time you guys turn on your mills you make me more and more wanting one of my own!

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    270
    Deleted the noise
    Last edited by Itess; 04-26-2011 at 12:06 PM.

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    How much those bar mount switches run?

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Ah itess you haven't followed the theme here, so you best start again

  97. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Ah itess you haven't followed the theme here, so you best start again
    Oh, sorry, I misunderstood the thread. I was thinking that everyone with a triple XM-L is welcomed.

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,669
    Quote Originally Posted by Itess
    Oh, sorry, I misunderstood the thread. I was thinking that everyone with a triple XM-L is welcomed.
    Everyone is welcome mate..
    Just everyone so far has done a parallel arrangement with the driver on the end, you'll need to mount your driver on the end to keep the trend going

  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060

    random XML beamshots

    Just took these and this thread is probably a good place to post them

    I paced it out from the building 100 good strides

    Here are the lights from left to right



    1 / single XML 2S Laura Lflex 3 amps
    2 / double XML 2S Laura H6flex 3 amps
    3 / triple XML 2S Laura H6flex 3 amps
    4 / Triple xml 2S cute S H6flex 3 amps
    5 / Triple XML 2S Rocket 3 H6flex 3 Amps
    6 / double XML Laura + Double XPG Regina Hipflex 2.8 amps
    7 / single XML Deft Aspherical Lflex 2 amps





    Beamshots in the same order

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    6

    7

  100. #100
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Nice work, thanks Chris.

    Is the Laura in #6 the same as that in the first three or does the 2s refer to something else that I can't think of at the moment.

    The xpg really does make a difference doesn't it

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •