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Thread: Triple xml l2?

  1. #1
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    Triple xml l2?

    The L2 is the newest and brightest xml right?

    Any one making a triple that will fit the easy to LED housing (35mm) Or 20mm if they are out there.

    Planning on the Triple for the bar and a single for helmet. Will the single helmet even be noticeable with the triple bar going?

    Task led drivers for both, so I plan on a lower amp on the bar to help with battery life.

    Thanks, I have the bug again.

  2. #2
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    I'm planning on a triple with the 35mm housing. Got the housing, optic and a B3Flex. Haven't picked up the LEDs yet but either U2 or T6 bin of the XML2 from Cutter. Just finished a single XML2 in the 20mm easy2led housing. I am guessing the single wont be as noticeable unless I am looking off center but no idea yet.

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    The 35mm housing can't deal with the heat of 3 XMLs if you are going drive them hard. I would be careful with any settings over 1.5A. Be sure to set the thermal setback level on the flex driver. I usually set it to 60C though 70C is still safe for the LEDs. 70C is too hot for me to touch though.

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    I was wondering about heat. I was planing 2a but that might be pushing it.

  5. #5
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    3 XM-L at 2A is ~20W, so the 35mm housing should be able to deal with that as long as there's some airflow - the 20mm housing does fine with 10W at walking pace.

    I'm not sure of anywhere other than cutter that does 35mm XM-L triple boards, but if you're careful with the epoxy, you might be able to find singles on 10 or 14mm boards that you can trim to fit. More work and more chance of screwing it up, but more flexibility over what you get.

    stars
    https://illuminationsupply.com/led-m...l#.UYqnWbWoWKk

    XM-L2
    https://illuminationsupply.com/cree-...l#.UYqno7WoWKk

    I have a couple of those LEDs in my commuting/ spare lights and they're a lovely tint, much nicer than the cool white XM-Ls in my other light.

    Get some solder paste cheap from somewhere, reflow on your cooker top and you'll be out $25 or so all in. Craig at IS is a super nice guy to deal with too and very fast.

    If you're running your bar light at 2A (1800lm?) and your helmet light at 3A (900lm) then they should work pretty well together. That's about the ratio I have and I usually run the bar light on L4 for general riding (otherwise it overwhelms my helmet light) and then stick in on full for the descents.

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    Big thanks! great info.

    I plan on 3a on the single. Originally I was thinking about some custom housings and a twin head light and twin bar. For the price of the easy2led housing it is hard to justify building something (lack of tools to do a nice job) Maybe some square aluminum stock might be easy enough. I do have a very nice finned heat sink I would like to use.

  7. #7
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    no worries. Those easy2led housings really do make life simpler and they look pro too, so it's a pretty obvious choice. That said, you could make pretty much anything you want with some 1in.sq tubing and some CPU heatsinks. It'll most likely look as ugly as sin (or Dame Edna, which is pretty much the same thing), but it'll do the job. The most I've ever seen is a quad, but I've been rocking my twin lights for the last couple of years or so:

    Finally, a Real Light (TM) for a Real Man (TM)

    1st LED light, lots of questions

    and many others In fact, I just quoted the first one to someone on BLF I was having a "the heat sink on my light is older than the one on yours" pi$$ing contest. One plus over the Easy2led 35mm housing is that you have more options wrt optics and beam shape, plus you can use 20mm stars which are easier to handle (and you can get free Sinkpad stars from Sinkpad, which are the shiz and FREE!).

    If you want to impress your mates and the opposite sex and don't want to spend hours in the garage with the Dremel, I'd go with the Easy2LED housing. If you're a tight ar$e like me and the garage is your refuge from reality TV, 1in.sq tubing all the way baby!

  8. #8
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    [QUOTE=mattthemuppet;10380186If you want to impress your mates and the opposite sex...[/QUOTE]

    These are two entirely incompatible objectives in my experience.
    Posting on the basis that ignorance shared is ignorance doubled.

  9. #9
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    I have no experience of either, so I'll have to take your word for that

  10. #10
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    HA! Those two threads are big parts in what landed me here. Don't let anyone fool you... you don't HAVE to have neat machined pieces, they just look better. I love being able to change optics for different riding needs....

    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    no worries. Those easy2led housings really do make life simpler and they look pro too, so it's a pretty obvious choice. That said, you could make pretty much anything you want with some 1in.sq tubing and some CPU heatsinks. It'll most likely look as ugly as sin (or Dame Edna, which is pretty much the same thing), but it'll do the job. The most I've ever seen is a quad, but I've been rocking my twin lights for the last couple of years or so:

    Finally, a Real Light (TM) for a Real Man (TM)

    1st LED light, lots of questions

    and many others In fact, I just quoted the first one to someone on BLF I was having a "the heat sink on my light is older than the one on yours" pi$$ing contest. One plus over the Easy2led 35mm housing is that you have more options wrt optics and beam shape, plus you can use 20mm stars which are easier to handle (and you can get free Sinkpad stars from Sinkpad, which are the shiz and FREE!).

    If you want to impress your mates and the opposite sex and don't want to spend hours in the garage with the Dremel, I'd go with the Easy2LED housing. If you're a tight ar$e like me and the garage is your refuge from reality TV, 1in.sq tubing all the way baby!
    Fat guys need bikes too.

  11. #11
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    thanks, that's very kind! 2x1in rectangular alu extrusion would make your life considerably simpler, though it's much harder to find. It's also worth bearing in mind that you'll most likely be spending $20-25 on a 4-6ft long piece of aluminium, so for one light at least you won't save much money

    then again, that's just a great excuse to make more lights..

    if you work out how much you need, I still have ~5ft of the 1in.sq thin wall tubing and could probably find some bits you could make L-pieces for the LEDs out of. I can just cut off a piece and put in the post for some beer money if you're in the US.

  12. #12
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    I've purchased 2" x 1" thin wall alu tubing at onlinemetals.com. They sell short lengths and will cut to order.

    Order Aluminum 6063 Rectangle Tube in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com

  13. #13
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    I spent some of my light budget on a HRM. So it will have to wait a bit. But i have decided to do the square tubing. I have a cut off saw and a dremel. I prefer to have 2 on bar and 2 on the head.

    Thanks for the link on the AL

  14. #14
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    that 2x1 would do great for 2up lights, just make sure that the internal dimensions are enough to fit the LED stars and optics. For a small 2up helmet light a 2x2x1 housing with a 2x1x1 u-shaped channel to hold the LEDs and form the back of the light would be a really simple build. If I were to do another 2up sled light, that would be the way I'd go as it would be a lot simpler and neater than using only 1in.sq. tubing.

    If your budget has been blown a bit, check out the mobydrv linear drivers that DrJones sells DrJones' Custom Firmware Drivers. Only $9.50 inc. postage and if you get a 3.05A version and run the LEDs in parallel, you'll get a really lovely bright light for not much money. Plus you'll be able to use a 2P battery pack and charge it from a simple 18650 charger.

    For LEDs, check out Illumination Supply (have I said that already?), Craig sells some lovely XM-L2 NW LEDs. Then pretend to be in the lighting business and get some free samples from Sinkpad for your stars. Fasttech have NCR18650B (3400mAh) batteries for $18 or so. Then some optics, cable gland, cable and switch - should be $50-60 for the helmet light, excluding the charger.

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