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  1. #1
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    Triple XML Bar Light MK2

    Hi Guys. Since I am not an artist I thought I would pick the collective brains of the forum and ask for your opinion on a light I have designed.

    As the title say's it is a triple XML driven form a Hipflex or H6 flex mounted in a rear pocket powered by a 14.8v Pack. The optic is a triple cutter medium or spot and it will have a remote handlebar switch with stat led mounted to the rear of the light. The other option would be to use a Lflex with 11.1v pack wired in 3s2p to give better run times.

    The mount is custom machined from 5083 alloy and will be secured to the light with a cap screw.

    Anyway here is the first revision of the design and I welcome your opinions, good or bad.

    As a side not the current design including the mount is 175grams.

    Thanks



    Last edited by brad72; 12-05-2011 at 12:58 AM.

  2. #2
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    I'm no artist either but here's my $.02.

    Add shorter versions of the slots on the optic end to the driver end. Symmetry.

    Extend the "eyebrow" to the corner of the body. May not be a big deal, but it looks like the current shape may be a bit too minimal.

    And as always, round the edges generously.

    Are you able to get octagon bar or does it start as square bar then get the corners milled?

  3. #3
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    other than "are you sure that'll be bright enough" my only comment would be that the lflex would have to dissipate too much heat on full with a fresh battery if it's driving 3 LEDs in series. 2 was the max George said it would take and I don't think he was terribly happy with even that. Someone with some more maths brains can give you the figures, but I think 2 LEDs are already causing the Lflex to burn off over 5W (~1V x 3A x 2) which was around its limit.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the comments guys.

    Vancbiker this one was actually designed around 50mm round bar (the light is 50mm tip to tip). I need to stop by the steel merchant today and see what sizes of square and hex bar he sells to save wasting so much material and save some time.

    Matt looks like I'll be sticking with the Hipflex or H6flex then. Thanks for the heads up. as for too much light is there such a thing . I'm going to make some twin and single Xml's as well but that's another story.

  5. #5
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    Think I might machine this one up in black and red, now just to find some spare time






  6. #6
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    Nice!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Nice!
    Thanks Mate, now if only I could machine them as quickly as I can draw them in CAD.

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    This is the end view housing showing heatsink for the h6flex and stat led visible in blue. Power and remote switch entry is from the bottom of housing using an M8 4 pin plug and socket.


  9. #9
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    They do look very good thats for sure
    wish I could drawup stuff like that got stuff in my head but cant get it out on to paper or screen.

    from a weight point of view. there does look to be a lot of metal that could be removed.
    I also prefer Hex bar it somehow looks neater. imho.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post
    They do look very good thats for sure
    wish I could drawup stuff like that got stuff in my head but cant get it out on to paper or screen.

    from a weight point of view. there does look to be a lot of metal that could be removed.
    I also prefer Hex bar it somehow looks neater. imho.
    I do agree that there seems to be plenty of alloy that could be removed but I don't want to spoil the aesthetic's (got my skirt on now). I have tried shaving a mm of here and a mm off there but it only seems to drop a few grams. (another advantage of a cad program as it gives you the weight). It might be easier to make one up then start shaving from there.

    Mate if you ever want any cad drawing done just let me know. I am pretty sure I can keep a secret

  11. #11
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    Thats looking pretty smart Brad, looking forward to the finished light...
    I wish i had the cad program you use to draw them up, so i can work out the surface area properly!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Thats looking pretty smart Brad, looking forward to the finished light...
    I wish i had the cad program you use to draw them up, so i can work out the surface area properly!
    Thanks Jay. I never though the surface area function was that useful until anodizing as with just 2 clicks you can get the total area so it is dead easy to calculate the ano time and current

    The housing above has a surface area of 71 inē which is a lot more than I would have thought. So to anodize I'm looking at 160 minutes @ 2.2 amps using the LCD method. Should be enough time to have a beer or two.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Thanks Jay. I never though the surface area function was that useful until anodizing as with just 2 clicks you can get the total area so it is dead easy to calculate the ano time and current

    The housing above has a surface area of 71 inē which is a lot more than I would have thought. So to anodize I'm looking at 160 minutes @ 2.2 amps using the LCD method. Should be enough time to have a beer or two.
    Id like to know what my tripple XML's surface area is, but I've found that setting my power supply to 12amps limit and leaving the housing in the acid bath for 90mins works fine..

  14. #14
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    Jay your method is certainly a lot faster but I'm not game changing what I'm doing as it works in case it all goes pear shaped.

    Anyway I manage to make some chips tonight. I'm cutting enough to make 2 housing to start with so I can try different colours.

    The pictures show the 50mm square bar in the V Blocks with 1 face machined. The idea will be to cut the face and then plunge the longitudinal slots before going to the next face to save some time. The bar is cutting really nicely and I'm taking 5mm cuts so there's swarf flying everywhere so machining in my pyjamas probably isn't the best idea. But, I guess as long as my wife doesn't find any swarf in the bed should be ok




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    Nice. I think the suggestions made by Vancbiker have improved the looks, especially the larger hood. It seems to make the proportions of the light look more balanced now as well as probably being a bit more effective.

    What CAD system are you using for your designs?

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    Hi Brad, nice pics.
    what CAD program you using here? I like the rendered images, or are they just screeen shots?
    keep up the mighty effort.
    cheers, tv

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    Wasted no time going from drawing to chips flying!

  18. #18
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    Thanks for the comments guys.

    OTH, the proportions do look much better. It seems the little things make the biggest difference to the final look so thanks Vancbiker for the advice. I was going to wait till next week when my DRO arrives to start machining but I'm too impatient plus I love to see designs come to life.

    The cad program is Autodesk Inventor Pro 2011 and yep tv-kid they are rendered images. Cad cetainly make designing the housings easy, in fact a little too easy. I'm going to have to CNC my mill one day so I can machine all the designs (now i'm dreaming).

    Keep you posted on the progress

  19. #19
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    if it's any help on the motivation front, my 3 year old was very impressed with the progress so far..

    I like the look of the black one, never much been into red. I also like the bling factor of the carbon bar in the render

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    if it's any help on the motivation front, my 3 year old was very impressed with the progress so far..

    I like the look of the black one, never much been into red. I also like the bling factor of the carbon bar in the render
    My 8 and 5 year old girls liked it also so must be a good sign. I bought a carbon fibre moulding kit earlier this year to add some carbon to my lights but still have to find the time to make some fibreglass moulds. Why is it we all seem to be getting busier

    As for colours i can do Red, Black, Green, Yellow, Purple and Orange. I might even try some 2 tone anodizing where it has a little red on the front fading to black. Being a Specialized bike owner I like red on my bike

  21. #21
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    This 56 year old likes it also

    Wouldnt mind seeing a yellow one done .

    Please if you are trying the red to black experiment on a scrap bit first as I did that on a light and it went horribly wrong .

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post

    Please if you are trying the red to black experiment on a scrap bit first as I did that on a light and it went horribly wrong .
    Thanks for that, it looks so easy in the video's.......damn those professionals
    Last edited by brad72; 12-06-2011 at 04:43 PM.

  23. #23
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    Well I got the bar machined to shape tonight and polished to just under a mirror finish since it is easier to do when one long length. I need to try and find a supplier of hex bar around the dimensions I need to make the job a little easier in the future.

    Anyway here is a picture of the progress


  24. #24
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    Like the design Brad.

    Won't you get machining / vise marks on it when doing the rest of the milling and need to polish it again?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Won't you get machining / vise marks on it when doing the rest of the milling and need to polish it again?
    For most of this build I will be clamping on the un-polished end but when workingon the polished end I use paper and soft jaws in my chucks and paper and a strip of alloy when clamping to the mill table. This usually does a pretty good job of stopping marks, plus making sure that the vice or chuck doesn't have any burs on it. Here's hoping it works again this time because I hate polishing.

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