Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 108
  1. #1
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538

    Triple XML Bar Light MK2

    Hi Guys. Since I am not an artist I thought I would pick the collective brains of the forum and ask for your opinion on a light I have designed.

    As the title say's it is a triple XML driven form a Hipflex or H6 flex mounted in a rear pocket powered by a 14.8v Pack. The optic is a triple cutter medium or spot and it will have a remote handlebar switch with stat led mounted to the rear of the light. The other option would be to use a Lflex with 11.1v pack wired in 3s2p to give better run times.

    The mount is custom machined from 5083 alloy and will be secured to the light with a cap screw.

    Anyway here is the first revision of the design and I welcome your opinions, good or bad.

    As a side not the current design including the mount is 175grams.

    Thanks



    Last edited by brad72; 12-05-2011 at 12:58 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,132
    I'm no artist either but here's my $.02.

    Add shorter versions of the slots on the optic end to the driver end. Symmetry.

    Extend the "eyebrow" to the corner of the body. May not be a big deal, but it looks like the current shape may be a bit too minimal.

    And as always, round the edges generously.

    Are you able to get octagon bar or does it start as square bar then get the corners milled?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,342
    other than "are you sure that'll be bright enough" my only comment would be that the lflex would have to dissipate too much heat on full with a fresh battery if it's driving 3 LEDs in series. 2 was the max George said it would take and I don't think he was terribly happy with even that. Someone with some more maths brains can give you the figures, but I think 2 LEDs are already causing the Lflex to burn off over 5W (~1V x 3A x 2) which was around its limit.

  4. #4
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Thanks for the comments guys.

    Vancbiker this one was actually designed around 50mm round bar (the light is 50mm tip to tip). I need to stop by the steel merchant today and see what sizes of square and hex bar he sells to save wasting so much material and save some time.

    Matt looks like I'll be sticking with the Hipflex or H6flex then. Thanks for the heads up. as for too much light is there such a thing . I'm going to make some twin and single Xml's as well but that's another story.

  5. #5
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Think I might machine this one up in black and red, now just to find some spare time






  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,132
    Nice!

  7. #7
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Nice!
    Thanks Mate, now if only I could machine them as quickly as I can draw them in CAD.

  8. #8
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    This is the end view housing showing heatsink for the h6flex and stat led visible in blue. Power and remote switch entry is from the bottom of housing using an M8 4 pin plug and socket.


  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    They do look very good thats for sure
    wish I could drawup stuff like that got stuff in my head but cant get it out on to paper or screen.

    from a weight point of view. there does look to be a lot of metal that could be removed.
    I also prefer Hex bar it somehow looks neater. imho.

  10. #10
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post
    They do look very good thats for sure
    wish I could drawup stuff like that got stuff in my head but cant get it out on to paper or screen.

    from a weight point of view. there does look to be a lot of metal that could be removed.
    I also prefer Hex bar it somehow looks neater. imho.
    I do agree that there seems to be plenty of alloy that could be removed but I don't want to spoil the aesthetic's (got my skirt on now). I have tried shaving a mm of here and a mm off there but it only seems to drop a few grams. (another advantage of a cad program as it gives you the weight). It might be easier to make one up then start shaving from there.

    Mate if you ever want any cad drawing done just let me know. I am pretty sure I can keep a secret

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,668
    Thats looking pretty smart Brad, looking forward to the finished light...
    I wish i had the cad program you use to draw them up, so i can work out the surface area properly!

  12. #12
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Thats looking pretty smart Brad, looking forward to the finished light...
    I wish i had the cad program you use to draw them up, so i can work out the surface area properly!
    Thanks Jay. I never though the surface area function was that useful until anodizing as with just 2 clicks you can get the total area so it is dead easy to calculate the ano time and current

    The housing above has a surface area of 71 in≤ which is a lot more than I would have thought. So to anodize I'm looking at 160 minutes @ 2.2 amps using the LCD method. Should be enough time to have a beer or two.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,668
    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Thanks Jay. I never though the surface area function was that useful until anodizing as with just 2 clicks you can get the total area so it is dead easy to calculate the ano time and current

    The housing above has a surface area of 71 in≤ which is a lot more than I would have thought. So to anodize I'm looking at 160 minutes @ 2.2 amps using the LCD method. Should be enough time to have a beer or two.
    Id like to know what my tripple XML's surface area is, but I've found that setting my power supply to 12amps limit and leaving the housing in the acid bath for 90mins works fine..

  14. #14
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Jay your method is certainly a lot faster but I'm not game changing what I'm doing as it works in case it all goes pear shaped.

    Anyway I manage to make some chips tonight. I'm cutting enough to make 2 housing to start with so I can try different colours.

    The pictures show the 50mm square bar in the V Blocks with 1 face machined. The idea will be to cut the face and then plunge the longitudinal slots before going to the next face to save some time. The bar is cutting really nicely and I'm taking 5mm cuts so there's swarf flying everywhere so machining in my pyjamas probably isn't the best idea. But, I guess as long as my wife doesn't find any swarf in the bed should be ok




  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OverTheHill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    425
    Nice. I think the suggestions made by Vancbiker have improved the looks, especially the larger hood. It seems to make the proportions of the light look more balanced now as well as probably being a bit more effective.

    What CAD system are you using for your designs?

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    28
    Hi Brad, nice pics.
    what CAD program you using here? I like the rendered images, or are they just screeen shots?
    keep up the mighty effort.
    cheers, tv

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,132
    Wasted no time going from drawing to chips flying!

  18. #18
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Thanks for the comments guys.

    OTH, the proportions do look much better. It seems the little things make the biggest difference to the final look so thanks Vancbiker for the advice. I was going to wait till next week when my DRO arrives to start machining but I'm too impatient plus I love to see designs come to life.

    The cad program is Autodesk Inventor Pro 2011 and yep tv-kid they are rendered images. Cad cetainly make designing the housings easy, in fact a little too easy. I'm going to have to CNC my mill one day so I can machine all the designs (now i'm dreaming).

    Keep you posted on the progress

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,342
    if it's any help on the motivation front, my 3 year old was very impressed with the progress so far..

    I like the look of the black one, never much been into red. I also like the bling factor of the carbon bar in the render

  20. #20
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    if it's any help on the motivation front, my 3 year old was very impressed with the progress so far..

    I like the look of the black one, never much been into red. I also like the bling factor of the carbon bar in the render
    My 8 and 5 year old girls liked it also so must be a good sign. I bought a carbon fibre moulding kit earlier this year to add some carbon to my lights but still have to find the time to make some fibreglass moulds. Why is it we all seem to be getting busier

    As for colours i can do Red, Black, Green, Yellow, Purple and Orange. I might even try some 2 tone anodizing where it has a little red on the front fading to black. Being a Specialized bike owner I like red on my bike

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    This 56 year old likes it also

    Wouldnt mind seeing a yellow one done .

    Please if you are trying the red to black experiment on a scrap bit first as I did that on a light and it went horribly wrong .

  22. #22
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post

    Please if you are trying the red to black experiment on a scrap bit first as I did that on a light and it went horribly wrong .
    Thanks for that, it looks so easy in the video's.......damn those professionals
    Last edited by brad72; 12-06-2011 at 04:43 PM.

  23. #23
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Well I got the bar machined to shape tonight and polished to just under a mirror finish since it is easier to do when one long length. I need to try and find a supplier of hex bar around the dimensions I need to make the job a little easier in the future.

    Anyway here is a picture of the progress


  24. #24
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Like the design Brad.

    Won't you get machining / vise marks on it when doing the rest of the milling and need to polish it again?

  25. #25
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Won't you get machining / vise marks on it when doing the rest of the milling and need to polish it again?
    For most of this build I will be clamping on the un-polished end but when workingon the polished end I use paper and soft jaws in my chucks and paper and a strip of alloy when clamping to the mill table. This usually does a pretty good job of stopping marks, plus making sure that the vice or chuck doesn't have any burs on it. Here's hoping it works again this time because I hate polishing.

  26. #26
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    All dialled up in the 4 jaw ready to make some chips but ran out of time so more tomorrow


  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    162
    Brad, are you going to use all that hexed up stock? Would you contemplate a custom milling job out of the last 30mm? (Simple-simple, I'd reckon, with quite loose tolerances...) Please PM me if it's a possibility.
    The study du jour: can one's reputation be artificially inflated by simply putting a request for rep in one's sig?

  28. #28
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by borrower View Post
    Brad, are you going to use all that hexed up stock? Would you contemplate a custom milling job out of the last 30mm? (Simple-simple, I'd reckon, with quite loose tolerances...) Please PM me if it's a possibility.
    PM sent

  29. #29
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Well I made a little more progress today on the lathe so that part of the machining is done. Now to take it over to the mill and start cutting the slots and screw holes for the rear cover.

    Below are a couple of shots of the machining and the housing so far. A couple of the shallow grooves are a little out (bar moved a little in the soft jaws when machining) but as this is a prototype to see how the housing handles a triple XML on full power in a Queensland summer I'm not going to loose too much sleep over it.

    Starting to cut the grooves


    Boring the chamfer for the front hood


    Housings progress after today's machining

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: uncle_bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    65
    looking good brad

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,668
    Looks good brad, funny how it looks to small for a cute xml optic in the pics..
    I was planning to get some new housings done..but the Mrs went into labour last Tuesday, which was 18 days early.
    Clever boy didn't want to share his birthday with Xmas day! He'll be a week old in 3 hours and 15 mins..

  32. #32
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Congratulations to your wife and yourself Jay.. Being a Dad and seeing you baby for the first time is the best thing in the world.

    My girls are 9 and 5 and the 9 year old learnt how to use the mill yesterday so she is very excited. She also loves typing the dimensions into Cad for me. Could have another engineer in the making.

    The housing is bigger in real life but has come out pretty well. Wasn't too hard to machine. I'm still waiting on the triple boards from cutter so it will give me some time to anodize it I guess. Then some testing. I already have some other lights in the pipeline but again I am waiting on optics from cutter. Wish my parents taught me to have some patience.

  33. #33
    A waste of time it is is
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    3,283
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Clever boy didn't want to share his birthday with Xmas day! He'll be a week old in 3 hours and 15 mins..
    Congratulations Jay. Is he your first?


    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    I already have some other lights in the pipeline but again I am waiting on optics from cutter. Wish my parents taught me to have some patience.
    They tried, but if they were anything like my parents trying to teach me, they didn't have the patience for it

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    162
    PATIENCE?!? How long will that take to learn?!?

    Congrats to Goldigger -- you'll have your own child labour force in no time at all.
    The study du jour: can one's reputation be artificially inflated by simply putting a request for rep in one's sig?

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,668
    Cheers guys,
    Yes hes our first..
    hopefully he will learn to use the mill,.mtb, gym etc..

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    All the best Jay Amazing time when a child is born .

    Brad

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bravellir's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    199
    congrats GD

  38. #38
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    A little more progress today. I managed to get the thread cut in the front for the lens retainer bezel and go the 4mm slots cut into the body. Loving the DRO as I hate counting turns.

    Here a couple of shots, the fist one is the slots being cut showing the end stop which makes setting up the part in the vice quick and repeatable as you have a fixed datum






  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,668
    Can you show us how you did the threading please Brad?
    Something i cant do on the mill, i did just look how much a 36mm tap and die would cost for a laugh!!! ouch!!!

  40. #40
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Jay, I cut the thread on the lathe so unfortunately the only way to cut one on the mill would be to use a tap but as you said the price of the bigger fine pitch taps make them not an option unless you are going to produce heaps of lights. On the lathe it is a doddle as long as it has thread cutting gears.

    If however you cnc your X2 then threading will be easy.

  41. #41
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Thinking out loud Jay is you were to put a stepper motor on your rotary table (which would be useful anyway since you are milling complete circumferences) and put a stepper on your z-axis you could cut threads using Mach3 software. The cost would be not that much but you would be able to cut any thread type, internal and external.

    The thread cutting tool would be mounted to the head via a coupe of cap screws making it nice and secure.

    Your only other mechanical option would be to make up a gear train that drives the spindle down and rotates the rotary table at the same time. Doable but not as neat as servo's

    Having the lathe is just so much easier. Select the TPI of the thread, fit the boring thread tool and cut till the correct depth of thread is reached and make note of the major diameter. Then turn some bar down to the major diameter of the internal thread and fit the external thread cutter. Then start cutting external thread and when close to the correct depth try and screw the 1st part you threaded and keep taking off small amounts until the desired fit is reached.

    Some people use the thread chaser dial and disengage the saddle after each cut but I like to keep the saddle locked and use the forward and reverse to keep the thread pitch perfect. I just back the tool off at the end of each cut so I'm not dragging the tool backwards through the work.

    Food for thought
    Last edited by brad72; 12-15-2011 at 03:27 PM.

  42. #42
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Broke a 2.5mm tap off today...ggrrrrrrr. Haven't broken one of them for a while and of coarse it has just gone closing time.

    When I catch up with Murphy I'm going to kick his arse

  43. #43
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Got the rear cover machined this afternoon so hopefully onto anodizing tomorrow after a bit more polishing then the assembly.


  44. #44
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Got the anodizing done today and it worked....wooo hoooo. Now I just need to work out how to get the red darker but it nearly matches the bars so I'm happy. Looks good on the enduro I think.

    I haven't wired up the led and driver yet as I want to let the ano cure for 24 hours before final assembly. I also need to cut turn the front screw on bezel but that will have to wait till Monday.

    All the sanding and polishing certainly pays off in the final finish. Need to buy some cotton buffs for the bench grinder though I think. My poor arms were knackered.

    Here are a few shots of the light and the remote thumb switch.










  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,668
    Good job brad, that's come out really nice
    How much does it weigh including driver and leds etc?

  46. #46
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Good job brad, that's come out really nice
    How much does it weigh including driver and leds etc?
    Thanks Jay. The anodizing has certainly made a difference to our builds.

    As for weigh I'll find out tomorrow. Probably weighs more than I would like but the MK3 can be shaved down a bit more. I reckon she's somewhere around the 180g mark but if it can handle full power on a hot summer night then probably worth it.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bravellir's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    199
    looks amazing..

  48. #48
    Rep Power Infinity +2
    Reputation: brad72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1,538
    Bravellir, thanks for the kind comment

    Jay, 240g complete with leds, driver, cable etc. MK3 will need to go on a diet.

    I'm wondering what bead blasting the housing prior to anodizing might look like

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Bravellir, thanks for the kind comment

    Jay, 240g complete with leds, driver, cable etc. MK3 will need to go on a diet.

    I'm wondering what bead blasting the housing prior to anodizing might look like
    MMM-Nice

    if you get weight weenie disease i think you will have to go back to round though

    Beadblasting will certainly give you more surface area to anodise I had one done once and it was not pretty IMHO

    either polished or with machining marks left in like the hope stuff looks bestest to me

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    MK3 will need to go on a diet.
    Brad - been following your build from the start and really impressed.

    As for losing some weight, maybe a remote driver so you could lose the lump on the back? Depends on how to store your batteries of course.

    looking forward to beam shots.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Triple - Triple XPE design.
    By deesta in forum Lights DIY - Do It Yourself
    Replies: 109
    Last Post: 08-17-2012, 12:25 PM
  2. RIP 9 Triple + Triple Bashguard?
    By jbsocal in forum Niner Bikes
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-30-2011, 12:53 PM
  3. New MCE and XPG Triple/R2.
    By ireland57 in forum Lights DIY - Do It Yourself
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-23-2010, 05:15 AM
  4. Yet another Cutter R2 Triple triple DIY light...
    By Peter_JS in forum Lights DIY - Do It Yourself
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-03-2008, 08:00 AM
  5. Cateye Triple Shot Vs. Triple Shot Pro
    By Reedster in forum Lights DIY - Do It Yourself
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 03-15-2007, 03:36 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •