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  1. #1
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    Triple XM-L Helmet jobby

    Seeing as everyone is making chips on their various tools time to have another go me thinks .
    so to go with the quad bar light and my H6flex has arrived , I started on a triple XML and Cute ss optic






  2. #2
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    I knew you was up to something...you've been to quiet lol..
    Nice looking light.. do you have a lathe aswell chris?

    I like the driver slot.. how will you fix the driver down? sandwich something on top of it to hold it in place?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    I knew you was up to something...you've been to quiet lol..
    Nice looking light.. do you have a lathe aswell chris?

    I like the driver slot.. how will you fix the driver down? sandwich something on top of it to hold it in place?

    Been working away for a while

    H6Flex sticks down with the supplied heat transfer tape that was one reason to lay it down flat



    Yes I was given this old girl a couple of years ago . CNC = Chris Numpty Controled




  4. #4
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    Thats a big old beast..the lathe not the light
    How are you going to close the driver slot? rear cover of some sort?

  5. #5
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    I had some 3 mm plate from a skip rooting so using a bit of that
    got a fair bit of filing it to shape .

    then work out where to get the power in there is not enough room for a connector so will have a tail I guess .

  6. #6
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    Love the chain drive on the lathe!

  7. #7
    help with the zip please
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    Nice work Chris, no excuses for a lack of light when that one is finished.

    a couple of questions if I may

    Using the double sided tape that comes with the driver (hmm wonder where that goes when we order drivers from Cutters ) how do you stop the solder bumps from your connections to the board holding the board up to high or shorting against the housing?

    I spy a lappy in that first lathe pic, does that mean you have cnc'd your mill or are you just using that to check things while out in the shed?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Nice work Chris, no excuses for a lack of light when that one is finished.

    a couple of questions if I may

    Using the double sided tape that comes with the driver (hmm wonder where that goes when we order drivers from Cutters ) how do you stop the solder bumps from your connections to the board holding the board up to high or shorting against the housing?

    I spy a lappy in that first lathe pic, does that mean you have cnc'd your mill or are you just using that to check things while out in the shed?
    When i do it i make sure that my wires dont poke out the bottom of the driver..the thermal pad that you get from george is quite thick and rubbery.. its thicker than the one on cutters
    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut952

    I think the lappy is just to look at porn in the garage.. .

  9. #9
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    I ship a Bergquist thermal adhesive material with my drivers. It utilizes an acrylic based adhesive and so takes about 24 hours to fully set - it is quite obnoxiously strong once set

    On the 'working' end of my work bench I have a sheet of silicone antistatic mat that I solder over. It obviously is soldering iron proof. When soldering boards like the h6flex I lay the board flat on the mat and then push wires down into the holes and solder from above. This keeps the wire from protruding and also prevents the solder 'blobbing' through to the other side.

    So, I end up with a nice 'flat' bottom on the board when it's all done and no risk of wires etc protruding through and compromising the insulation properties of the thermal pad material.

    Cutter sources their own thermal material, since I only ship the drivers to them. So, you can think of the thermal pad as 'value add'...

    cheers,
    george.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the info George..
    Are any of these the ones you ship with the drivers?
    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...05&cm_vc=av_uk
    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...&cm_vc=prev_uk
    That last one should do the trick?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Nice work Chris, no excuses for a lack of light when that one is finished.

    a couple of questions if I may

    Using the double sided tape that comes with the driver (hmm wonder where that goes when we order drivers from Cutters ) how do you stop the solder bumps from your connections to the board holding the board up to high or shorting against the housing?

    I spy a lappy in that first lathe pic, does that mean you have cnc'd your mill or are you just using that to check things while out in the shed?

    Carefully is the answer or a file to flatten it after soldering

    Nope no CNC too old to even think about learning to use one . all design and manufacture is on the fly all manual no DRO either might kit the lathe up with dro on day

  12. #12
    help with the zip please
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    Thanks for the response guys.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Carefully is the answer or a file to flatten it after soldering

    Nope no CNC too old to even think about learning to use one . all design and manufacture is on the fly all manual no DRO either might kit the lathe up with dro on day
    If you do go for a dro, i found these guys the cheapest by far.
    http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.p...category_id=15

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the Link Goldigger will have a trawl later .

    Getting there with the wiring but a bit too minimalist on space inside so a bit of a squash .



    The other end .



    be a bit easier when the triple boards from cutters are available .

  15. #15
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    Looking good, i like the fins they look fab
    I know what you mean about the wiring and no space, i struggled with my fat fingers and the tripple cuboid..
    started to see red at one point as it just wasnt happening..

    What solder do you use? I've just got some crappy draper solder I've had for ages, i dont think it's that great..

    I have one of the cute3 optics, but all my xmls are on 20mm pcb's!

  16. #16
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    Nice work as always....

  17. #17
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    Like it a lot. Lathe might have porduced parts for Spitfires!

  18. #18
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    Using some old fashioned lead solder picked up from fleabay works very nicely

    All finished and ready for a spin on the helmet
    121 grams



    not a cat in hells chance it will handle the massive heat this thing can produce on the full 3 amps unless bombing down hill on a cool UK night but as its for my own use I can live with that and the awesome light output at lower levels is quite enough for a blind man
    with the back up facility of a great hand warmer on the frost nights .

    there is also a fair amount of heat radiating out from the front so much so that you cant keep your hand over the front for long before it becomes painful.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    there is also a fair amount of heat radiating out from the front so much so that you cant keep your hand over the front for long before it becomes painful.
    Only a portion will be in the infrared frequencies (heat) from the dice or from the housing and out the front. I think you are feeling the conversion off the visible spectrum out the front converted into infrared as it hits and is absorbed by your skin. At least 6 watts. Yes, that will get warm fast!

  20. #20
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    looks good chris, i think that rear cover needs some fins to match the body?

    I was just reading my giro booklet that came with my helmet, it warns you that high temp can melt it..

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    Like it a lot. Lathe might have porduced parts for Spitfires!
    The lathe is a school lathe about 65/70 years old ( Smart and Brown Sable )
    so doubt it made any war plane parts but may have trained some engineers who did

    Really enjoy using it but need to learn how to cut threads on it

  22. #22
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    Blimey Troutie, with that on your head and a liberator on the bars you'll be visible from space!

    Another great build.

  23. #23
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    What battery are you going to drive this juice sucking beast from chris?

    I dont know if i should swap my tripple P7 for 3 XML with the LC1's or make a 2xXML LC1 head warmer?

  24. #24
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    That's a great looking shell Chris

  25. #25
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    Nice looking light....

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