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  1. #1
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    Triple Cree MC-E HomeBuild FD-1

    very cool designs been created by all you guys, i've been watching this thread from the shadows
    One of my ideas (Non-CNC devised), oh yes i have more.....

    Ive got the engineering part of it sussed (see pic)
    but its the electrickery im undecided on. i'm running three CREE MC-E's giving me in theory 12 adressable LED's (4 per die)
    what i use to run them and how i wire them up i was hoping that you guys could advise. I've got 6x18650 cell pack built, its just the driver and wiring i'm out at the decision point on
    Triple Cree MC-E HomeBuild FD-1-photo2.jpg

    enjoy....
    will now duck for cover as the comments come in......



    edit:

    and no its not a prop from flash gordon movie..... :P

  2. #2
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    What configuration is your 6x battery? That will make a difference in getting good advice about drivers and wiring schemes.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    What configuration is your 6x battery? That will make a difference in getting good advice about drivers and wiring schemes.
    Currently it's 3 sets of 2 cells and that's only due to the battery pack I removed them from had them paired that way.
    so I'm open to suggestions.
    with the cavities in the light I can either run 3 el cheapo drivers or plump for a nice hi current one and revise my mounting arrangement for the driver. But being full Ali construction it's hopefully going to run cool.

  4. #4
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    Not a bad idea for a light body for a non-CNC fella... I have the body and slug set for one of my own from a single cheap flashlight sitting on my desk.... just need to put the LED and driver in it.



    Fat guys need bikes too.

  5. #5
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    Built with very few tools
    The red cylinders came from my lathe days and I found the Ledil 20mm square optics with the corners removed fitted snugly.
    I've got the mc-e stars bonded to Ali slugs already with cable tails.
    I will post more pics of the build when I get them off the camera.
    This is one of those builds that's evolved as the creation gets made. I've got a finned disc to sit behind the front plate to increase surface area as those three mc-e's will get warm.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carpathia View Post
    Currently it's 3 sets of 2 cells and that's only due to the battery pack I removed them from had them paired that way.
    so I'm open to suggestions.
    with the cavities in the light I can either run 3 el cheapo drivers or plump for a nice hi current one and revise my mounting arrangement for the driver. But being full Ali construction it's hopefully going to run cool.
    Since I am a big fan of the Taskled drivers, I'll recommend the HBFlex. Wire your batteries in a 3S2P configuration giving you 11.1V nominal. Wire your MCEs 4S3P. At 3A you'll be running each MCE at 1A and a Vf of ~14.5. Depending on how your heat dissipation is you may need to set a lower maximum current.

  7. #7
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    If I understand that right it's going to be a 5 cell battery pack although I'm confused on the LED wiring 4S3P
    Is that split across three dies? I could wire one die as all series but then 3P?
    It's been a long night and the grey matter has had it's time sorry to ask the daft questions
    A scribble will suffice
    Thanks all for your time
    edit, added pics of build
    Triple Cree MC-E HomeBuild FD-1-photo-4.jpgTriple Cree MC-E HomeBuild FD-1-photo-1.jpgTriple Cree MC-E HomeBuild FD-1-photo-2.jpgTriple Cree MC-E HomeBuild FD-1-photo-3.jpg
    Star on alu slug, skeleton frame pre-welding, side shot of skeleton, alu slugs
    Last edited by Carpathia; 04-30-2013 at 07:19 AM.

  8. #8
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    That MCE is not the individually addressable style, it looks like a series style, though it could be a parallel style. If it is series, this is how I would wire the batteries and LEDs using an HBFlex driver.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Triple Cree MC-E HomeBuild FD-1-mce.jpg  


  9. #9
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    Part codes for the led's i have are
    XREWHT-L1-0000-00C01-MCSTAR
    And
    MCE4WT-000M01-STAR
    And going from Cree data sheet they appear individually addressable. Although the sheet doesn't define that so I'm not so sure

    http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cr...g/XLampMCE.pdf

  10. #10
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    The MCE itself is individually addressable. The type of star it is soldered to determines the configuration. There are parallel and series configurations of stars. These are easily identified visually as they have either 2 or 4 solder pads only. The individually addressable star is identified by having 8 solder pads.

  11. #11
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    FWIW I really like your design.

    Very cool.
    Posting on the basis that ignorance shared is ignorance doubled.

  12. #12
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    Looking at the mc-e they have four pads
    Two of the pads link together onto the same pin
    Pos is on top right chip pin
    Neg is bottom left chip pin


    thanks for the like of the design, not bad for a cordless drill a file and patience of a saint

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carpathia View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Star on alu slug, skeleton frame pre-welding, side shot of skeleton, alu slugs
    Love the slugs. The copper slug was the best I could do without a mill or lathe. You got any spares?
    Fat guys need bikes too.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carpathia View Post
    Looking at the mc-e they have four pads
    Two of the pads link together onto the same pin
    Pos is on top right chip pin
    Neg is bottom left chip pin
    That means the stars you have are configured in a series connection. That is the same as in the diagram I posted earlier.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knight511 View Post
    Love the slugs. The copper slug was the best I could do without a mill or lathe. You got any spares?

    im sure I could lay my hands on some, can always make some more to order
    if you have cad dimensions sling them over

    forgot to mention, the slugs are undercut at the back for additional surface area too
    Last edited by Carpathia; 05-01-2013 at 06:10 AM.

  16. #16
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    Update:
    Battery pack is built, 3p2s 6cell battery with the "Tamiya" latching power connector removing the issue of reverse polarity

  17. #17
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    As some of us are running "non-standard" battery packs, are there any recommendations on what I should use for charging as its from my understanding Li-ion are not suitable for your average charger?
    Any suggestions welcomed.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carpathia View Post
    Update:
    Battery pack is built, 3p2s 6cell battery with the "Tamiya" latching power connector removing the issue of reverse polarity
    3P2S setup is less than ideal if using 3 series MCEs and a boost driver. 2P3S would be more efficient.

    Quote Originally Posted by Carpathia
    As some of us are running "non-standard" battery packs, are there any recommendations on what I should use for charging as its from my understanding Li-ion are not suitable for your average charger?
    Any suggestions welcomed.
    Get a hobby charger from someplace like Hobbyking. Turnigy Accucell 6 seems a very nice unit that can be setup to charge just about anything.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    3P2S setup is less than ideal if using 3 series MCEs and a boost driver. 2P3S would be more efficient.



    Get a hobby charger from someplace like Hobbyking. Turnigy Accucell 6 seems a very nice unit that can be setup to charge just about anything.
    Sorry my bad on the typo, it's set up as per the diagram, 3 sets of 2, throws out about 11.2v.

    wow the turnigy looks a nice peice of kit, comparing it to the Chinese chargers there looks to be more tech in there that "cares" for the batteries. The plug top versions look basic and I have my concerns that they wouldn't be good.
    are they available in uk?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carpathia View Post
    wow the turnigy looks a nice peice of kit, comparing it to the Chinese chargers there looks to be more tech in there that "cares" for the batteries. The plug top versions look basic and I have my concerns that they wouldn't be good.
    are they available in uk?
    The I believe Hobbyking would ship to UK. The Turnigy is Chinese too. Quality seems quite nice in spite of that. I have only used it a couple times now. I have been using Ultrafire WF139 chargers for about 4 years now and they have worked fine too.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    The I believe Hobbyking would ship to UK. The Turnigy is Chinese too. Quality seems quite nice in spite of that. I have only used it a couple times now. I have been using Ultrafire WF139 chargers for about 4 years now and they have worked fine too.
    Ive seen those ultra fire chargers they look good, although they are geared for the multi cell plastic skeleton holders that allow each cell to be charged independently.
    i might go down that route as I can pick up a cell holder cheaply, plus any cell failures can be easily removed.

  22. #22
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    wow, now that is what i call a unique light. After a few years on here it's easy to get complacent, thinking that you've seen all there is, and then something completely different pops up! I really like it - looks very retro futuristic

    It's a shame that they're not parallel wired, then you'd be able to do a master-slave set up with cheap AMC7135 boards. There might be some other, smaller boost drivers that would work - International.Outdoors sells some, check out the DIY section on Budget Light Forum for reviews as a fair few people have used boost drivers on there.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    wow, now that is what i call a unique light. After a few years on here it's easy to get complacent, thinking that you've seen all there is, and then something completely different pops up! I really like it - looks very retro futuristic

    It's a shame that they're not parallel wired, then you'd be able to do a master-slave set up with cheap AMC7135 boards. There might be some other, smaller boost drivers that would work - International.Outdoors sells some, check out the DIY section on Budget Light Forum for reviews as a fair few people have used boost drivers on there.
    I take it your relating to the Cree chips or the batteries?

    at present batteries are not fully enclosed so a master / backup is still feasible with half the capacity, but academic to run it that way.

    If its the Cree chips, then I have the ones that are not individually addressable so that scuppers it.

    i did look at the cheapy driver boards on ol' eBay but as someone recommended the taskled units as they seem to be longer lasting.
    has anyone had good / bad experience of the cheap boards?
    I do have some concerns on the heat dissipation of the cheapy boards as although I'm not sure of the total surface area all heat emoting devices need bonding to the chassis and last thing I need is dry joints from the Chinese drivers.

  24. #24
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    yep, the LEDs - there a lots of choices for running 3V LEDs from 3.7V li-ion packs, it's when you get into the more complex set ups that choice goes down. Not a big deal as Taskled drivers are very good, just large and expensive. If you end up making another light in the future, the Nanjg boards that DrJones on Budget LIght Forum programs and sells are very good and a fraction of the price of the Taskled drivers.

    the cheap chinese drivers are fine physically, it's just more of a lottery what UI, modes and PWM they use. I've used a few and have been perfectly happy with them for what they are.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    yep, the LEDs - there a lots of choices for running 3V LEDs from 3.7V li-ion packs, it's when you get into the more complex set ups that choice goes down. Not a big deal as Taskled drivers are very good, just large and expensive. If you end up making another light in the future, the Nanjg boards that DrJones on Budget LIght Forum programs and sells are very good and a fraction of the price of the Taskled drivers.

    the cheap chinese drivers are fine physically, it's just more of a lottery what UI, modes and PWM they use. I've used a few and have been perfectly happy with them for what they are.

    I ended up going for the eBay drivers to trial the project out, I can always upgrade in the future.
    i did toy with the idea of getting a triple light set on eBay and changing the "head" so most of the electrickery is easier to integrate too

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