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  1. #1
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Hope Triple build...am I on the right track (noob time)

    Hey gang,

    Well, with a nice new case in my future, I'm starting to think about what to stuff in it. Here are my initial thoughts and I'd like some opinions (go gentle, I'm a noob and this will be my first DIY).

    Case: Deesta's CNC'd job with the original fins
    LED's: 3 x Cree XR-E R2's (20mm stars, I'm assuming) wired in series
    Driver: bFlex (I'm going to see about throwing 1A at the LED's, so I'm assuming the cool white R2's)
    Battery: I'm basing this on other info... min 14.4V (3.7V (Vf) @ 1A x3 LEDs + ~1V for the bFlex). Not sure on the size, but I'd like to see 3hrs min. run time on full, likely NiMH. Suggestions?

    I'm rough guesstimating that it should have a nominal 825 lumen output...a serious upgrade from my 15W halogen (~300-375 lumens).

    I'm just wondering about optics...Deesta has indicated Ledil LC1 will fit, I'm just wondering about suggested beams...2x6 degree and 1x15 for some spill?

    Anyway, any and all thoughts greatly appreciated.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  2. #2
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    Hey Mike,

    My casing is based around the 20mm stars. I'm running mine @1A too, really strong light. I'm using LC1's...2 x spot, 1 x medium but I have a few optics off Troutie so will try a 3 x Spot and 2 x medium 1 x spot to see how it compares. Will stick up some photo's when I've had a chance to do it

    I'd go for a Li-Ion battery if possible, batteryspace supply them or smudgemtb on here does them but shipping to Alberta could be an issue from the UK...

    You'll get all the help you need off here, I'm a relative noob too...this is my 1st build too

    Steve

  3. #3
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    As I have finished all my builds and to stop the creative spirit from drying up I am messing around with Deestas proto housing with a view to putting 3 MCE in there to see if it will cope .

    it is getting 3 CMC SS in there , the reason is they seem to give the best throw of the bunch
    the RS throws an die shaped beam and I would have used one but for the hole in the outside . this would get muck in and be a pitta to clean out.


    If I may suggest optics for the 3 R2 build then I would use one of each
    LC1 RS
    LC1 D
    LC1 rect

    that should IMHO give a good coverage

  4. #4
    Off the back...
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    Mike, I'm in the mighty province of AB as well - I recommend www.all-battery.com, and consider getting Li-ion packs instead of NiMH. If you're in Calgary, I might be able to help with the build, as I will be getting a couple of Deesta's CNC housings...

  5. #5
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Hey gang, thanks for the pointers to date. Keep 'em coming...I'll likely have more questions when it comes to actual assembly and waterproofing of everything.

    Batts: yeah, it's been a while since I was last looking....Li-ion seems like the way to go these days. How many amp-hours should I be shooting for? I'm throwing one amp at the LED's in series...so I'm thinking a ~4 Ah pack should meet my min. 3 hrs run time, right? Man, it's been far too long since I was last dealing with electrical stuff!

    Pinkrobe: Actually, I'm up in Edmonchuk ...you get the same general type of stuff (more mountains 'cause they are closer, a little warmer due to the chinooks and I think your river valleys are a little more flat ). All in all, though, you probably get a lot of the same.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  6. #6
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    If I may suggest optics for the 3 R2 build then I would use one of each
    LC1 RS
    LC1 D
    LC1 rect

    that should IMHO give a good coverage
    Looking at the info from the Ledil site, it looks like that combo should give a nice wide dispersion with some good center punch...just what I was after when I initially when for my 15W PB Alias SC...some good dispersion for the close stuff (like actually getting your front wheel over that log you spotted down the trail) but still good punch for down the trail.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  7. #7
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Anyone know of a good source for a Li-ion pack that is more like what you'd find in an RC car (not so much a cube as much as a long rectangle)? My current light has a great battery that is easy to attach to the top tube...and I'd love to be able to do the same for the build. Either that, of I need to come up with something that will fit under a 90 mm stem.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho Mike
    Anyone know of a good source for a Li-ion pack that is more like what you'd find in an RC car (not so much a cube as much as a long rectangle)? My current light has a great battery that is easy to attach to the top tube...and I'd love to be able to do the same for the build. Either that, of I need to come up with something that will fit under a 90 mm stem.
    Have a look on eBay under radio control stuff. There are some places in Hong Kong where I get my batterys from. It's possible to contact them directly and service is generally pretty good.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treadly
    Have a look on eBay under radio control stuff. There are some places in Hong Kong where I get my batterys from. It's possible to contact them directly and service is generally pretty good.
    eBay
    I bought lipo charger there, and 2 weeks after shipping without trace number the seller disappeared from eBay. I got it 10 days later...
    Lipos declared to 4000 mAh have only 3100, but they were cheap ones - 15$ for unit.

    However, http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_index.asp have big section of batteryes and chargers.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho Mike
    Anyone know of a good source for a Li-ion pack that is more like what you'd find in an RC car (not so much a cube as much as a long rectangle)? My current light has a great battery that is easy to attach to the top tube...and I'd love to be able to do the same for the build. Either that, of I need to come up with something that will fit under a 90 mm stem.
    I ran your numbers through an on line run time calculator and this is what I came up with. With a four cell 14.8volt 2500mah Li-ion battery you should get a 3hr run time ( with the B-flex @1000ma.) Looks like your stuck with either a square or side-by-side configuration with the battery if they are built with 18650's. However I do see a couple made that are long and skinny. Check this out > http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...&Category=1073
    The cheapest one in the lot is the 2200mah built with 18650's ( side x side ). If it was me, that is the one I would use as 400 more milliamp hrs cost you almost twice as much. The 2200mah battery should run about 2.71 hrs @ 1000ma. The photo shows examples of 4- cell 18650 packs built square and side x side. My side x side battery fits nicely in my old Marwi battery bag/holder and fits right under the top tube. You might be able to buy the old battery bag/holder from Marwi if you look around a bit.

  11. #11
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Yeah, for the cost to go up to a 2500mah or 2600 mah pack, I could readily go up to 4400mah (hey, if I'm going to need a frame bag, I might as well make use of it and get insane run times and quicker charging as compared to what I've got now...)

    Maybe something like this...
    http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=3600
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  12. #12
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho Mike
    I might as well make use of it and get insane run times and quicker charging as compared to what I've got now...)

    Maybe something like this...
    http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=3600
    I have the same battery (except 4800ma tenergy version from battery junction). I mount it under the stem with a modified camera battery bag.

    It fits quite nicely although the extra weight does noticeably alter the bikes handling for the first 5 minutes until you get used to it. I was quite surprised as I hadn't expected to notice a difference at all.

    What are you doing for a charger? I got a 500ma smart charger...... not exactly fast.... do the maths and it takes 9 hours from dead. Mind you, I have never even had it get anywhere near dead.

  13. #13
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    Thanks for crunching the numbers CMD, that saves me doing it

    I was wondering what my run times should be on my set up.... Can I multiply according to my battery??

    if Mike would get 3 hours on a 2500mAh battery running 3 R2's @ 1A, would I get over 6 hours running 3 Q5's @ 1A on a 15v 5400mAh battery??

    Steve

  14. #14
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Thanks for crunching the numbers CMD, that saves me doing it

    I was wondering what my run times should be on my set up.... Can I multiply according to my battery??

    if Mike would get 3 hours on a 2500mAh battery running 3 R2's @ 1A, would I get over 6 hours running 3 Q5's @ 1A on a 15v 5400mAh battery??

    Steve

    Here you go

    http://www.kenworster.com/ledcalc/

    punch the numbers in until your heart is content....

  15. #15
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    Thanks OBS,

    I pressume I triple the Vf to get the right value for 3 LED's? If that's the case, I should get 6h34m runtime....Cool!! All I need to do now is be able to ride for that long

  16. #16
    aka RossC
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    Quote Originally Posted by deesta

    I pressume I triple the Vf to get the right value for 3 LED's?
    Correct, or just put the forward voltage for 1 x LED into the section on the right hand side and the number of LED's, then hit the little "<<<" button and it will calculate it for you and insert it in the right spot.


    If that's the case, I should get 6h34m runtime....Cool!! All I need to do now is be able to ride for that long
    You and me both! I just got back from a morning ride and it is already nudging 30 degrees c. 1 hour and I was spent... It will be interesting to see how the boys in the tour down under cope with it

  17. #17
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ocean breathes salty
    I just got back from a morning ride and it is already nudging 30 degrees c.
    Damn, that would be nice right about now! Here in Vermont, in the northeast US, it's been nudging minus 30C at night. Last week it never got above minus 15C (5F) in the daytime. The snowboarding is great, but I could do with less coldness!

    JZ

    (Alt 248 makes the little sign....cool!)
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  18. #18
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
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    hehehe...Sounds like up here Jim. We had a small break from our sub -20oC days here (about 1 wk) but now it is right back to it.

    On the flip side though....I'm getting more done on my projects than I thought I would.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  19. #19
    Austin, TX
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    I'm going to do the exact same build as Psycho Mike and would like to order the optics from Bram. Unfortutely he only has the following LC1s: LC1-RS, LC1-SS, LC1-M. Given those options what configuration should I use for a good mix?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Village
    I'm going to do the exact same build as Psycho Mike and would like to order the optics from Bram. Unfortutely he only has the following LC1s: LC1-RS, LC1-SS, LC1-M. Given those options what configuration should I use for a good mix?
    If that is your only option then one of each seems logical and then you could wait for a wide and swop it later . I think you will still have a pretty good beam there .

    I am tempted to say 2 mediums and a real spot though.

  21. #21
    Austin, TX
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    Thanks troutie! I'll go ahead and order one of each, plus an extra Medium to test the second config.

  22. #22
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Ok...got the housing ordered, stars and optics ordered, wire from work (woohoo...good stuff), switch, mount...it's coming along nicely. The driver will be ordered as soon as Taskled get some more in and the batt and charger as soon as I have a couple more bucks together...

    That just leaves the connectors. I'm thinking Tamaya connectors for the battery, charger and that end of the power wire to the light (all of which can be put in a plastic bag in the storage bag under my stem or on my top tube)...but now I have the pondering about something waterproof for the connection to the head unit.

    What are others using for this vital connection?
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  23. #23
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Anyone using a 2.1 or 2.5 mm std power jack for this? Are there other options that may be more waterproof? I'm specifically looking for suggestion regarding the connector for the head unit end of things.

    Cheers.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  24. #24
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    Mike

    Power connectors have been the bogey man for me and the most frustrating bit of DIY lights.imho

    There does not seem to be a good waterproof solution . the standard 2.5 dc plug and socket are very unreliable and let water into the housing to mess with the driver board.

    My most reliable method to date is to have a wire coming out from the housing with the connector of choice on the end .
    this way the cable entry can be sealed and waterproof .

    Hope fully some one will now come along with the ideal solution .

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Power connectors have been the bogey man for me and the most frustrating bit of DIY lights.imho
    Yes, PITA.
    I use automotive trailer connectors with good results, waterproof and secure.
    Using a long cord and tucking the connector into the batterypack gets rid of the water problem too.
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
    A few Dynamo builds and some Small battery lights

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