Results 1 to 47 of 47
  1. #1
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483

    Hope Triple build...am I on the right track (noob time)

    Hey gang,

    Well, with a nice new case in my future, I'm starting to think about what to stuff in it. Here are my initial thoughts and I'd like some opinions (go gentle, I'm a noob and this will be my first DIY).

    Case: Deesta's CNC'd job with the original fins
    LED's: 3 x Cree XR-E R2's (20mm stars, I'm assuming) wired in series
    Driver: bFlex (I'm going to see about throwing 1A at the LED's, so I'm assuming the cool white R2's)
    Battery: I'm basing this on other info... min 14.4V (3.7V (Vf) @ 1A x3 LEDs + ~1V for the bFlex). Not sure on the size, but I'd like to see 3hrs min. run time on full, likely NiMH. Suggestions?

    I'm rough guesstimating that it should have a nominal 825 lumen output...a serious upgrade from my 15W halogen (~300-375 lumens).

    I'm just wondering about optics...Deesta has indicated Ledil LC1 will fit, I'm just wondering about suggested beams...2x6 degree and 1x15 for some spill?

    Anyway, any and all thoughts greatly appreciated.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,003
    Hey Mike,

    My casing is based around the 20mm stars. I'm running mine @1A too, really strong light. I'm using LC1's...2 x spot, 1 x medium but I have a few optics off Troutie so will try a 3 x Spot and 2 x medium 1 x spot to see how it compares. Will stick up some photo's when I've had a chance to do it

    I'd go for a Li-Ion battery if possible, batteryspace supply them or smudgemtb on here does them but shipping to Alberta could be an issue from the UK...

    You'll get all the help you need off here, I'm a relative noob too...this is my 1st build too

    Steve

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    As I have finished all my builds and to stop the creative spirit from drying up I am messing around with Deestas proto housing with a view to putting 3 MCE in there to see if it will cope .

    it is getting 3 CMC SS in there , the reason is they seem to give the best throw of the bunch
    the RS throws an die shaped beam and I would have used one but for the hole in the outside . this would get muck in and be a pitta to clean out.


    If I may suggest optics for the 3 R2 build then I would use one of each
    LC1 RS
    LC1 D
    LC1 rect

    that should IMHO give a good coverage

  4. #4
    Off the back...
    Reputation: pinkrobe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,008
    Mike, I'm in the mighty province of AB as well - I recommend www.all-battery.com, and consider getting Li-ion packs instead of NiMH. If you're in Calgary, I might be able to help with the build, as I will be getting a couple of Deesta's CNC housings...
    dgsmills.com
    #pinkrobeyyc
    CMBA

  5. #5
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Hey gang, thanks for the pointers to date. Keep 'em coming...I'll likely have more questions when it comes to actual assembly and waterproofing of everything.

    Batts: yeah, it's been a while since I was last looking....Li-ion seems like the way to go these days. How many amp-hours should I be shooting for? I'm throwing one amp at the LED's in series...so I'm thinking a ~4 Ah pack should meet my min. 3 hrs run time, right? Man, it's been far too long since I was last dealing with electrical stuff!

    Pinkrobe: Actually, I'm up in Edmonchuk ...you get the same general type of stuff (more mountains 'cause they are closer, a little warmer due to the chinooks and I think your river valleys are a little more flat ). All in all, though, you probably get a lot of the same.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  6. #6
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    If I may suggest optics for the 3 R2 build then I would use one of each
    LC1 RS
    LC1 D
    LC1 rect

    that should IMHO give a good coverage
    Looking at the info from the Ledil site, it looks like that combo should give a nice wide dispersion with some good center punch...just what I was after when I initially when for my 15W PB Alias SC...some good dispersion for the close stuff (like actually getting your front wheel over that log you spotted down the trail) but still good punch for down the trail.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  7. #7
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Anyone know of a good source for a Li-ion pack that is more like what you'd find in an RC car (not so much a cube as much as a long rectangle)? My current light has a great battery that is easy to attach to the top tube...and I'd love to be able to do the same for the build. Either that, of I need to come up with something that will fit under a 90 mm stem.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho Mike
    Anyone know of a good source for a Li-ion pack that is more like what you'd find in an RC car (not so much a cube as much as a long rectangle)? My current light has a great battery that is easy to attach to the top tube...and I'd love to be able to do the same for the build. Either that, of I need to come up with something that will fit under a 90 mm stem.
    Have a look on eBay under radio control stuff. There are some places in Hong Kong where I get my batterys from. It's possible to contact them directly and service is generally pretty good.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by Treadly
    Have a look on eBay under radio control stuff. There are some places in Hong Kong where I get my batterys from. It's possible to contact them directly and service is generally pretty good.
    eBay
    I bought lipo charger there, and 2 weeks after shipping without trace number the seller disappeared from eBay. I got it 10 days later...
    Lipos declared to 4000 mAh have only 3100, but they were cheap ones - 15$ for unit.

    However, http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_index.asp have big section of batteryes and chargers.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    4,982
    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho Mike
    Anyone know of a good source for a Li-ion pack that is more like what you'd find in an RC car (not so much a cube as much as a long rectangle)? My current light has a great battery that is easy to attach to the top tube...and I'd love to be able to do the same for the build. Either that, of I need to come up with something that will fit under a 90 mm stem.
    I ran your numbers through an on line run time calculator and this is what I came up with. With a four cell 14.8volt 2500mah Li-ion battery you should get a 3hr run time ( with the B-flex @1000ma.) Looks like your stuck with either a square or side-by-side configuration with the battery if they are built with 18650's. However I do see a couple made that are long and skinny. Check this out > http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...&Category=1073
    The cheapest one in the lot is the 2200mah built with 18650's ( side x side ). If it was me, that is the one I would use as 400 more milliamp hrs cost you almost twice as much. The 2200mah battery should run about 2.71 hrs @ 1000ma. The photo shows examples of 4- cell 18650 packs built square and side x side. My side x side battery fits nicely in my old Marwi battery bag/holder and fits right under the top tube. You might be able to buy the old battery bag/holder from Marwi if you look around a bit.

  11. #11
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Yeah, for the cost to go up to a 2500mah or 2600 mah pack, I could readily go up to 4400mah (hey, if I'm going to need a frame bag, I might as well make use of it and get insane run times and quicker charging as compared to what I've got now...)

    Maybe something like this...
    http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=3600
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  12. #12
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho Mike
    I might as well make use of it and get insane run times and quicker charging as compared to what I've got now...)

    Maybe something like this...
    http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=3600
    I have the same battery (except 4800ma tenergy version from battery junction). I mount it under the stem with a modified camera battery bag.

    It fits quite nicely although the extra weight does noticeably alter the bikes handling for the first 5 minutes until you get used to it. I was quite surprised as I hadn't expected to notice a difference at all.

    What are you doing for a charger? I got a 500ma smart charger...... not exactly fast.... do the maths and it takes 9 hours from dead. Mind you, I have never even had it get anywhere near dead.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,003
    Thanks for crunching the numbers CMD, that saves me doing it

    I was wondering what my run times should be on my set up.... Can I multiply according to my battery??

    if Mike would get 3 hours on a 2500mAh battery running 3 R2's @ 1A, would I get over 6 hours running 3 Q5's @ 1A on a 15v 5400mAh battery??

    Steve

  14. #14
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta
    Thanks for crunching the numbers CMD, that saves me doing it

    I was wondering what my run times should be on my set up.... Can I multiply according to my battery??

    if Mike would get 3 hours on a 2500mAh battery running 3 R2's @ 1A, would I get over 6 hours running 3 Q5's @ 1A on a 15v 5400mAh battery??

    Steve

    Here you go

    http://www.kenworster.com/ledcalc/

    punch the numbers in until your heart is content....

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,003
    Thanks OBS,

    I pressume I triple the Vf to get the right value for 3 LED's? If that's the case, I should get 6h34m runtime....Cool!! All I need to do now is be able to ride for that long

  16. #16
    aka RossC
    Reputation: ocean breathes salty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    936
    Quote Originally Posted by deesta

    I pressume I triple the Vf to get the right value for 3 LED's?
    Correct, or just put the forward voltage for 1 x LED into the section on the right hand side and the number of LED's, then hit the little "<<<" button and it will calculate it for you and insert it in the right spot.


    If that's the case, I should get 6h34m runtime....Cool!! All I need to do now is be able to ride for that long
    You and me both! I just got back from a morning ride and it is already nudging 30 degrees c. 1 hour and I was spent... It will be interesting to see how the boys in the tour down under cope with it

  17. #17
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    Quote Originally Posted by ocean breathes salty
    I just got back from a morning ride and it is already nudging 30 degrees c.
    Damn, that would be nice right about now! Here in Vermont, in the northeast US, it's been nudging minus 30C at night. Last week it never got above minus 15C (5F) in the daytime. The snowboarding is great, but I could do with less coldness!

    JZ

    (Alt 248 makes the little sign....cool!)
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  18. #18
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    hehehe...Sounds like up here Jim. We had a small break from our sub -20oC days here (about 1 wk) but now it is right back to it.

    On the flip side though....I'm getting more done on my projects than I thought I would.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  19. #19
    Austin, TX
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    89
    I'm going to do the exact same build as Psycho Mike and would like to order the optics from Bram. Unfortutely he only has the following LC1s: LC1-RS, LC1-SS, LC1-M. Given those options what configuration should I use for a good mix?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Quote Originally Posted by Village
    I'm going to do the exact same build as Psycho Mike and would like to order the optics from Bram. Unfortutely he only has the following LC1s: LC1-RS, LC1-SS, LC1-M. Given those options what configuration should I use for a good mix?
    If that is your only option then one of each seems logical and then you could wait for a wide and swop it later . I think you will still have a pretty good beam there .

    I am tempted to say 2 mediums and a real spot though.

  21. #21
    Austin, TX
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    89
    Thanks troutie! I'll go ahead and order one of each, plus an extra Medium to test the second config.

  22. #22
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Ok...got the housing ordered, stars and optics ordered, wire from work (woohoo...good stuff), switch, mount...it's coming along nicely. The driver will be ordered as soon as Taskled get some more in and the batt and charger as soon as I have a couple more bucks together...

    That just leaves the connectors. I'm thinking Tamaya connectors for the battery, charger and that end of the power wire to the light (all of which can be put in a plastic bag in the storage bag under my stem or on my top tube)...but now I have the pondering about something waterproof for the connection to the head unit.

    What are others using for this vital connection?
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  23. #23
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Anyone using a 2.1 or 2.5 mm std power jack for this? Are there other options that may be more waterproof? I'm specifically looking for suggestion regarding the connector for the head unit end of things.

    Cheers.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Mike

    Power connectors have been the bogey man for me and the most frustrating bit of DIY lights.imho

    There does not seem to be a good waterproof solution . the standard 2.5 dc plug and socket are very unreliable and let water into the housing to mess with the driver board.

    My most reliable method to date is to have a wire coming out from the housing with the connector of choice on the end .
    this way the cable entry can be sealed and waterproof .

    Hope fully some one will now come along with the ideal solution .

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: znomit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,820
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Power connectors have been the bogey man for me and the most frustrating bit of DIY lights.imho
    Yes, PITA.
    I use automotive trailer connectors with good results, waterproof and secure.
    Using a long cord and tucking the connector into the batterypack gets rid of the water problem too.

  26. #26
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    You'd think the RC guys would have come up with something that we could scavange, wouldn't ya? Hmmmm....I guess I'll have to keep my eyes open then. I think the Tamaya ends aren't that bad....but they are a bit bulky for near the head unit.

    I know my Halogens use 2.5 mm jacks with O-rings, but even so....
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  27. #27
    Austin, TX
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    89
    I'm planning on using a PG cable gland to secure a 6in length of cable with a male TrailTech connector to the light housing. I'm then going to make two extension harnesses, a short one for the bars and a long coiled harness for my helmet light build. The extension harnesses will have a female TrailTech on the light end and a Deans on the battery end. The Deans connector gives me access to friends' R/C flyer batts if needed for backup. As mentioned in another thread the distance between the Deans terminals should minimize low-voltage shorts in case the connector gets wet. Here's the PG gland:

    http://www.allproducts.com/manufactu...d/product1.jpg

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    I may go back to the deans . I quite like the reliability and this is one I used potted with epoxy and a piece of heatshrink to make a proper plug



  29. #29
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    I'm hoping to stay away from the cable glands if I can....I'd rather have something console mounted to the back of the light. I guess if need be, I could cable gland with a short length of cable to a more conventional coupling/plug....but...

    Who knows....maybe potted deans or something else.... I'm still keeping my eyes open.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  30. #30
    I win.
    Reputation: Popper252's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    713
    I use these on my DIY builds and they work great. Water proof and very secure connection.



    Can be bought here: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...&Category=1057
    09 Giant Anthem X3
    07 IBEX Trophy Comp X7

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HuffyPuffy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    890
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    I may go back to the deans . I quite like the reliability and this is one I used potted with epoxy and a piece of heatshrink to make a proper plug
    I have broken a couple deans plugs - the spring piece broke on the male end, so they do have their weakness. I still use them, but I keep replacments around. I should note that mine are from DX and I am sure there are quality issues, but I can see this as a weak point in their design - but only after quite a few cycles.

    A decent panel sealed connector can be found in the switchcraft EN3 series, you can get em at Mouser.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    95
    Switchcraft is grat discover! I think that their Micro-con-x sealed connector are even more suitable for little lamps. I found it at digikey.com (SC1207-ND).

  33. #33
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    I think I'll have to check out a couple different places when I get my casing in hand....I'd like to use the cable I have as our deep-well instrumentation guys swear by it and it holds up extremely well to the wet conditions....it's just a matter of being able to tie in the head unit (I've decided to go Tamaya for the other end of the cable and charger...for me it is KISS at work).
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  34. #34
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Ok...any pointers about soldering mcpcb stars? I've done soldering, but more like what one would find on a bFlex...tin the wire and pass it through a hole. Is it basically the same process on a star but with it basically being flat to the contact?
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,060
    Quote Originally Posted by Psycho Mike
    Ok...any pointers about soldering mcpcb stars? I've done soldering, but more like what one would find on a bFlex...tin the wire and pass it through a hole. Is it basically the same process on a star but with it basically being flat to the contact?

    If you have done a Bflex then you will have no problems with stars

  36. #36
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Well..I've done similar to a bFlex...gotta love shop class and making your own pcb. Never actually done a driver before. I do have one on order, though. It's been a while, so I'll practice my soldering first.

    Anyway...I found the connections I'm going to use at the local electronics shop. For the battery pack, I'll put a 2 pin connector (a la RC) in there so I can adjust the length of the cable should I ever decide to go helmet on the triple. I've got protected cells and a charger coming from DX that I'll hook up with one of Ferret's quad holders and neoprene stem sleeve for mounting. (Still have to order the stuff from Ferret, though...)

    The connector to the housing is still the issue. I found a decent looking RCA type connector that I'd say I have a good chance of getting reasonablly water resistant. The male ends will be a tight fit with the cable I want to use, but that's okay. I figure with a small o-ring (or elastic from someone's braces) I should be in business to try to keep water out of the female side...I'll put the elastic on the post to make it like an o-ring on a 5mm connector.

    The female side is a console mount and seems to have a small enough hole that if it doesn't work the way I hope, I can get my cable through and just put another 2-pin connector in. Maybe not ideal, but it should get the job done without going to a waterproof / locking thing that needs a huge hole for console mounting.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  37. #37
    Randomhead
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,109
    It seems like I have seen diy potted connectors in the past. Haven't noticed them recently, but I rarely read electronics catalogs from end to end anymore.

  38. #38
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Well, I got my driver, batts and charger in the last 24 hrs....got a Turboferret holder on the way. Just about ready to start building (thanks to Deesta getting my head on straight when it comes to the optics).

    I'm going to try a console mount RCA type connector for the head unit to start with...small enough hole that I can drill it out a bit and grommet/seal in cable if I need to later. If I have to change it, I'll put in an RC type plug like I have planned for near the battery...cheap, easy and not much chance of a little moisture shorting them because of how much separation there is between the contacts. My remaining question is which should become the positive: post or shell. I'm thinking post, but I'd love some thoughts.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  39. #39
    Austin, TX
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    89
    By convention,audio posts(tip) are positive. The shell (ring) is ground. Applies to RCA, 1/4" phone, etc.

  40. #40
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Thanks Village...that's what I kinda thought, but I thought I should check.

    Tonight I did some fitting on the light and got optics and stars fitted to the case and the stars soldered up. I couldn't resist the urge, so I sent 3 cells worth across the contacts to make sure my soldering job was up to par. Dang...sure nice to see all three LED's light up (and boy, that's a lot of light!!). Didn't hit them for long...don't want to mess them up...but it was pretty easy to solder them up and nice to know that I got it done right.

    As an FYI, I'm using OCZ's FreeZe compound as my thermal compound...it was the same price as Arctic Silver and I don't have to worry if I used it under the driver (not electrically conductive)...and it's supposed to transfer heat a hair better (we'll see about that).

    For my first DIY light, it is sure coming along nicely
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  41. #41
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    It's alive!!! ALIVE!!!! I've popped my DIY light cherry

    Last night I finished off my build. I didn't have the cells fully charged, so it was only a short little run to see what sort of light it throws, but it seems to be working and awfully bright!!

    I've got the cells on the charger now, so this should get interesting
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HuffyPuffy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    890
    Congratulations, it sounds like it is going to be a great light, and you used some really good parts which will help with reliability.

  43. #43
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Thanks Huffy!

    Well, last night, mother nature helped with a bit of a test for me to go see how bright this sucker is! Wow! We had our first thunderstorm last night....snow on the ground and lightning in the sky...whoda thunk it?

    In spite of the rain and overcast, cranking the light up to 1A lit up our back alley to the end of the block. Nothing in my arsenal before ever touched that sort of lighting!! Plus with 1/2 the weight and 1.5x the run time (just with 18650 cells), it's just amazing.

    Thanks to one and all with the pointers and help Maybe I can throw it on the cross bike and get some pics of both
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deesta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,003
    Well done Mike

    Glad you've got it all working and are happy with it!!

  45. #45
    Formerly NattyBoh74...
    Reputation: mroneeyedboh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    516
    Psycho, do you have any pictures on this light yet? I knwo you said that you were going to get some, but Id be interested in seeing the lighting output.

  46. #46
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Nothing yet...tonight I took it out for it's first real bike ride and it was truly impressive. What settings are folks using for their beamshots? If I can match them, it would give folks a better idea.

    If it helps any, I have a 15W Planet Bike Alias on the helmet as a spot light...no SC for the helmet mount kit so it pushes full juice. With the Deesta Altair on 1A, the halogen is just about washed out by the LED, but the LED has longer reach (thanks to the SS optic) and a much wider spread (thanks to the rectangular and diffuser optics).

    I'll try to get pics in the near future...
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  47. #47
    Double-metric mtb man
    Reputation: Psycho Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    4,483
    Beam shots up (in comparison to my 15W halogen) in the Beam Shots thread. My apologies to Troutie...my settings weren't the same, but they are somewhat close.
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •