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Thread: Revolver Mk II

  1. #1
    Killer b.
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    Revolver Mk II

    So it's been a year and a half since posted up a light build, and looking around, I got the bug to make something new.

    Can anyone guess what I'm planning? I'll give you a clue. Outside diameter is 19mm, and heat-sink is 16mm diameter. I've snapped a quick cell phone shot of the work so far next to the original Revolver.

    b.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-photo.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    Very nice design and machining. Which led flavour are you designing her around? I'm guessing a single XML with Regina optic and having 2 together to make a double barrel design.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Very nice design and machining. Which led flavour are you designing her around? I'm guessing a single XML with Regina optic and having 2 together to make a double barrel design.
    You're on the right track.... you just have to think bigger.
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  4. #4
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    Not a quad

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    Shall we call you Octomom? :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Shall we call you Octomom? :-)
    Nah, it's gotta be a six-shooter.

  7. #7
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    I was going to say tripple xpg with a carlco optic..but there 20mm so won't fit..
    (Quazzle lux-rc board)

  8. #8
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    Brad72 has got it.
    Quad XML with cut down Reginas and remote driver. The original Revolver used 2 barrels, each with a Lux-RC board.
    I got a bit inspired looking at Scar's personal bar light, so I'm going down the same route, with a 2s2p arrangement driven off an lflex. This will be bar mounted with the driver fitted into a custom stem cap. I was vaguely toying with the idea of doing two Reginas and two LednLight flood optics as used in Gloworm's new X2 light... (see the Lights and Night Riding forum for details on that).
    It's probably one of the most time consuming ways to make a four up, but what the heck.
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  9. #9
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    I started whizzing up another barrel this afternoon. Here's how I get the surface finish. I figure I'll get the best outcome by getting it mostly polished along the way and do a quick tidy up at the end.
    Using Autosol paste polish. I might get better results with jeweller's rouge, but I'd need to buy another leather buff stick.

    b.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-polishing1.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-polishing2.jpg  

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    Mate she is going to look lovely. Autosol does such and excellent job of polishing which certainly gives the anodizing that showroom shine.

    I also found is easier to polish earlier in the build before the job becomes a nightmare to hold. Some soft jaws and paper do an excellent job of stopping scratches on the part.

  11. #11
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    Thanks Brad

    I like to use cellulose tape to protect parts in the machines. I buy it from a watch parts wholesaler and generally use it to tape off polished parts of watch cases while I'm satin finishing other parts. It works a treat for machining.

    I've finished the outer machining on the 2nd barrel, and done most of the boring operations on the first. I'm going to get some leds and optics wired up in these two before I decide what optics to use for the second set. I wanted to go under 20mm OD for these, and looking at the Regina, I settled on 19mm, which also allows me to hold it in my collet chuck for various operations like boring. The Regina is 19.5mm at the leading edge, so I've whizzed one down to about 17mm, which also shortened it up quite a bit. I have 14mm XML boards, so it's going to be tight down the bottom where the wires solder on. I have some more drilling to do, and maybe a bit of fine tuning of the bore, but for the moment I've squeezed the cut-down Regina in without pushing it all the way down.... just testing how well my theory works in practice. I reckon 1mm is still plenty of wall thickness to play with....

    More photos:

    Does anyone know how to rotate photos? They are up the right way on my browser, but they keep uploading in landscape.... and the order changes from preview to posting.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-milling.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-boring.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-optic-.jpg  

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  12. #12
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    Very nice. thanks for the tip on the cellulose tape. I like you the little milling support you have made up

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    I saved your images and rotated them 90° right in paint and re-saved them.
    If you want to save them and edit your post ill remove this post...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-optic%2520in.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-boring.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-milling.jpg  


  14. #14
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    Thanks Goldigger.

    Let's see if this one displays the way I want.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-weight.jpg  

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    wow.. perfect and really light..

  16. #16
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    Very neat. It'll be interesting to see the beam pattern with the top end of the regina removed.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Very neat. It'll be interesting to see the beam pattern with the top end of the regina removed.
    Cool project there

    Echo emu`s thoughts its my belief that it will be floodier by removing the top of a reflector as its the top that give the spot ( I could be wrong there )

  18. #18
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    Thanks guys.
    I'm shooting for a lot of flood as this one is specifically designed as a bar light. I was thinking I would change my helmet light from two of Quazzle's L333 XP-G boards to two XP-E boards. I tried this once before, but without a bar light I lost a bunch of peripheral light. I was even toying with the idea of going up to his 1.5 amp boards. Then low mode should draw about .75 amps which would be great for most applications, while high should provide some serious throw for when I'm fanging it down hill.

    I had a close look at Scar's new triple and quad XML lights and it looks like he takes some off the front of his Reginas. So the beam shots on page 11 of the Amoeba Received thread should be indicative.
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    I've combined a Quazzle XPE and XPG with good results. The XPE picked up where the XPG left off. Your XML / XPE should also be a good combo.

    The only thing I would change if I was going to do this again is to put relatively less energy into the flood light as the flood was so bright it seemed to compromise my night vision. They were both 1.5 amp boards. Elliptical optic for flood, narrow clear for throw.

  20. #20
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    Some more progress.

    So I've been chipping away at this project little by little in between jobs that actually pay the bills. I've machined all four light heads, but still need to bore out the outer two. But I was getting bored of that, so I decided to test my mounting principle by machining up a piece of stainless to join two of the light heads. The joint has a 3mm bore, to hold internal wiring and o-rings to seal them from the elements.

    Pics:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-fitting.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-fitted.jpg  

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  21. #21
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    Beautiful. How do you get the lights to end up being exactly parallel when you've tightened the connection?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThinkBike View Post
    Beautiful. How do you get the lights to end up being exactly parallel when you've tightened the connection?
    Thanks. To be fair, this one was a fluke. Once all those mounts are machined up I'll adjust the depth of chamfer in the housings. It doesn't have to quite perfect as the o-rings have a certain amount of squish.
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    This may be a stupid question but what does the MK stand for? I've noticed a few topics about MK builds but no mention of what MK means...

    PS: Lovely light!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThinkBike View Post
    Beautiful. How do you get the lights to end up being exactly parallel when you've tightened the connection?
    First thing that popped into my head as well.

    Is the friction from the O ring enough to give you play so that they can be aligned? Is there enough play to allow you to have one aimed slightly further down the trail? How do you plan on mounting them, I had envisaged a small "L" shaped leg coming off the joiner pipe.

    Really nice work

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dalistro View Post
    This may be a stupid question but what does the MK stand for? I've noticed a few topics about MK builds but no mention of what MK means...

    PS: Lovely light!
    MK, short for Mark or version

  26. #26
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    Dalistro Mk II means mark 2, as in version 2.
    Some regulars here may remember version 1 which I showed in the first photo. If I was more forum-savvy I'd link to that thread, but I ain't.

    Emu yes, there will be enough squish to point the heads at slightly different angles. As for mounting, well you'll just have to wait and see. This build won't be remembered as being simple in it's execution. Beautiful yes (I hope) but simple most definitely not.

    b.
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  27. #27
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    Where did you get that dual threaded bolt with the center bore...I've looked all over. And can you go into a little more detail about your polishing process.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_SC View Post
    Where did you get that dual threaded bolt with the center bore...I've looked all over. And can you go into a little more detail about your polishing process.
    I made it.
    I've got a bit more work to do making stainless fittings, so I'll shoot some photos and post them up. I was about to do some work on that now, but realized I'd messed up a measurement, so I thought I'd better take the vernier gauge home and check something on the bike.

    I pretty much showed the whole polishing process that I've done so far already. I might go and buy another leather buff stick from a jewellery supplies store and use Polinum jeweller's polish to try to achieve a mirror finish before anodizing although it is difficult to remove all the turning lines. The stainless piece I just polished on the normal buff using polinum. It was a pretty cursory polish at this point.


    I thought I'd attach another photo to give you an idea of the actual size. I often find it difficult on here to see just how small some builds are until I see them next to something familiar.

    b.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-scale.jpg  

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  29. #29
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    Where did you get that dual threaded bolt with the center bore...I've looked all over. And can you go into a little more detail about your polishing process.

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    Looking very nice!

    On assembly do you augment the friction of the o-ring with a bit of loctite or anything?

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    Sweet looking light. Can't wait to see her all finished.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Looking very nice!

    On assembly do you augment the friction of the o-ring with a bit of loctite or anything?
    I'll let you know when I get there.
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by bshallard View Post
    So I've been chipping away at this project little by little in between jobs that actually pay the bills. I've machined all four light heads, but still need to bore out the outer two. But I was getting bored of that, so I decided to test my mounting principle by machining up a piece of stainless to join two of the light heads. The joint has a 3mm bore, to hold internal wiring and o-rings to seal them from the elements.

    Pics:
    Blair, looking good. I am interested to see how the reginas go!

    B
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  34. #34
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    First fly in the ointment.

    Bugger.

    I hadn't noticed this until this morning, but when I was boring out the first two light heads I went too deep too close to the edge and hit the ends of the flutes. The boring bar evidently isn't that sharp as instead of punching through, it pushed out the surface of the alloy a bit. It shows up in a couple of photos I've posted. If I was to leave these as is I know it would drive me mad.

    Looks like I have a lot more machining to do.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-screwup.jpg  

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  35. #35
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    well that sucks

  36. #36
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    damn, but I must say I know how you feel

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    well that sucks
    Yes.... yes it does.


    Anyhoo... while I couldn't quite face machining any more heat-sink just at the moment, I decided to keep going on the mounts, so I whizzed up the two inside mounts. As promised, I took some photos along the way. They are part finished.. I'll want to polish them a bit better, and I still have one more outside mount to make, and I haven't attempted to put any o-rings on these yet.
    I"ve sort of thrown it all together to show the basic layout, and put my glasses in shot for scale, and then just for larks shown the view from my shop floor onto my workbench.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-turn1.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-turn2.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-thread.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-glasses.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-bench.jpg  

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  38. #38
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    Ah, I was wondering if your little lathe had thread change gears of whether you used a die. Very nice work.

    Is watch repair and building your passion?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Ah, I was wondering if your little lathe had thread change gears of whether you used a die. Very nice work.

    Is watch repair and building your passion?
    I wouldn't say passion. Once maybe. These days it pays the bills and allows me to indulge in some of my various passions, one of which is designing and building needlessly complicated lights. Luckily for me I own the shop, so if I want to waste time on it then no-one is going to tell me off.

    There is a threading attachment available for the Sherline lathe. I'm waiting for an excuse to buy it.... At some point I hope to get back to building the clock I designed, and then I will have the excuse I need. Although since you have to remove the motor to use it, I would still use taps and dies for small threading jobs.

    Time for a long weekend... Auckland Anniversary Day... Or is it Waitangi Day? one or the other anyway.... I'm going to have some quality time with the family..... I might even manage to get my wife up to the forest with her bike. Wish me luck.
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  40. #40
    lumen junkie
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    Thanks for posting this... I've been inspired to try to copy it for a dual xml build I'm working on. Why did you use stainless instead of aluminum?

  41. #41
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    Nice light.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich_SC View Post
    Thanks for posting this... I've been inspired to try to copy it for a dual xml build I'm working on. Why did you use stainless instead of aluminum?
    Strength. I should be able to open up the bore a bit to make wiring it up a bit less of a sod.
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  43. #43
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    Finally got back to the machine tools.

    So after a couple of short work weeks with holiday weekends and whatnot, I did a wee bit more machining this morning, finishing a new stem cap for my bike.
    I have my stem set as low as it will go and flipped upside down to get some negative rise, so there's a bit of fork steerer sticking out the top which I don't really want to remove. At the moment I have a couple of spacers in there, but that's a bit untidy, so I have made a custom stem cap with spacer included. It is basically complete in the second photo apart from one component which hopefully will be here on Monday. Why this stem cap? Well, it's rather necessary for what I have in mind. This is just a teaser since I haven't posted any progress for over a week.
    I've been exhibiting a bit of machining ADD. I still haven't turned up the two new housings to replace the two I stuffed up, and I've made about half the stainless connectors I need. I've only trimmed down one Regina reflector. I seem to be flitting about doing whichever bit of machining I'm interested in at the particular moment.

    Question: I'm going to do a new helmet rig as well, but I"m having trouble deciding what to do. My two thoughts are 1) Two Lux-RC triple XP-E boards driven at 1.5 amps on high and 750ma on low, or 2) something aspherical along the lines of Troutie's Spider Eyes.
    Both should have mega throw. The XP-E option will be smaller and lighter, but I've already done one of these in the past. If I do it again it will just be a refinement. Suggestions?

    b.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-stem-cap.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-stem-cap2.jpg  

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  44. #44
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    Consider me teased.

    As for the helmet, maybe you can be our first to experiment with these

  45. #45
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    Mate I hear you on the procrastination front. I am yet to finish my single aspheric, double xml and triple xpg. Just seem to be making other bits and pieces.

    As for the helmet light I think you need to make both and choose which one you like the best.

  46. #46
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    Really nice work, bshallard.
    Hope you'll finish this nice little light.

  47. #47
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    for a helmet light I think an aspheric+spot optic would be a great option (or aspheric+triple XP-E spot). Getting great throw AND a smooth beam in a small package is pretty tricky in my experience.

  48. #48
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    I've made a decision on the helmet front. Pre-ordered the new L334 XP-E boards from Quazzle. Going all out this time with the 1.5amp full power. Switched to 60% on low mode I will probably run them on low 90% of the time and then power them up for the downhills. I tried the original Revolver in a double triple XP-E format before, but found that the narrow beam mucked up my peripheral vision. But I wasn't using a bar light, so that won't be a problem anymore. In a micro helmet build I don't think you can beat the XP-Es for light weight and outright throw. And I can't be bothered waiting on the results of the XT-Es.

    Anyway, here is the completed stem cap. This is destined for black ano. I'm intrigued to know if anyone can guess exactly what I'm up to with this.

    b.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-stem-cap-3.jpg  

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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by bshallard View Post
    Anyway, here is the completed stem cap. This is destined for black ano. I'm intrigued to know if anyone can guess exactly what I'm up to with this.

    b.
    Battery stowed inside steer tube?

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    Battery stowed inside steer tube?
    You know I've seriously considered that, but I don't think I could hold a big enough battery in there.
    b.
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