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Thread: Revolver Mk II

  1. #1
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    Revolver Mk II

    So it's been a year and a half since posted up a light build, and looking around, I got the bug to make something new.

    Can anyone guess what I'm planning? I'll give you a clue. Outside diameter is 19mm, and heat-sink is 16mm diameter. I've snapped a quick cell phone shot of the work so far next to the original Revolver.

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-photo.jpg  

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    Very nice design and machining. Which led flavour are you designing her around? I'm guessing a single XML with Regina optic and having 2 together to make a double barrel design.

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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72 View Post
    Very nice design and machining. Which led flavour are you designing her around? I'm guessing a single XML with Regina optic and having 2 together to make a double barrel design.
    You're on the right track.... you just have to think bigger.
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    Not a quad

  5. #5
    help with the zip please
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    Shall we call you Octomom? :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Shall we call you Octomom? :-)
    Nah, it's gotta be a six-shooter.

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    I was going to say tripple xpg with a carlco optic..but there 20mm so won't fit..
    (Quazzle lux-rc board)

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    Brad72 has got it.
    Quad XML with cut down Reginas and remote driver. The original Revolver used 2 barrels, each with a Lux-RC board.
    I got a bit inspired looking at Scar's personal bar light, so I'm going down the same route, with a 2s2p arrangement driven off an lflex. This will be bar mounted with the driver fitted into a custom stem cap. I was vaguely toying with the idea of doing two Reginas and two LednLight flood optics as used in Gloworm's new X2 light... (see the Lights and Night Riding forum for details on that).
    It's probably one of the most time consuming ways to make a four up, but what the heck.
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    I started whizzing up another barrel this afternoon. Here's how I get the surface finish. I figure I'll get the best outcome by getting it mostly polished along the way and do a quick tidy up at the end.
    Using Autosol paste polish. I might get better results with jeweller's rouge, but I'd need to buy another leather buff stick.

    b.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-polishing1.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-polishing2.jpg  

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    Mate she is going to look lovely. Autosol does such and excellent job of polishing which certainly gives the anodizing that showroom shine.

    I also found is easier to polish earlier in the build before the job becomes a nightmare to hold. Some soft jaws and paper do an excellent job of stopping scratches on the part.

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    Thanks Brad

    I like to use cellulose tape to protect parts in the machines. I buy it from a watch parts wholesaler and generally use it to tape off polished parts of watch cases while I'm satin finishing other parts. It works a treat for machining.

    I've finished the outer machining on the 2nd barrel, and done most of the boring operations on the first. I'm going to get some leds and optics wired up in these two before I decide what optics to use for the second set. I wanted to go under 20mm OD for these, and looking at the Regina, I settled on 19mm, which also allows me to hold it in my collet chuck for various operations like boring. The Regina is 19.5mm at the leading edge, so I've whizzed one down to about 17mm, which also shortened it up quite a bit. I have 14mm XML boards, so it's going to be tight down the bottom where the wires solder on. I have some more drilling to do, and maybe a bit of fine tuning of the bore, but for the moment I've squeezed the cut-down Regina in without pushing it all the way down.... just testing how well my theory works in practice. I reckon 1mm is still plenty of wall thickness to play with....

    More photos:

    Does anyone know how to rotate photos? They are up the right way on my browser, but they keep uploading in landscape.... and the order changes from preview to posting.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-milling.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-boring.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-optic-.jpg  

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  12. #12
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    Very nice. thanks for the tip on the cellulose tape. I like you the little milling support you have made up

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    I saved your images and rotated them 90 right in paint and re-saved them.
    If you want to save them and edit your post ill remove this post...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-optic%2520in.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-boring.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-milling.jpg  


  14. #14
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    Thanks Goldigger.

    Let's see if this one displays the way I want.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-weight.jpg  

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    wow.. perfect and really light..

  16. #16
    help with the zip please
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    Very neat. It'll be interesting to see the beam pattern with the top end of the regina removed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Very neat. It'll be interesting to see the beam pattern with the top end of the regina removed.
    Cool project there

    Echo emu`s thoughts its my belief that it will be floodier by removing the top of a reflector as its the top that give the spot ( I could be wrong there )

  18. #18
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    Thanks guys.
    I'm shooting for a lot of flood as this one is specifically designed as a bar light. I was thinking I would change my helmet light from two of Quazzle's L333 XP-G boards to two XP-E boards. I tried this once before, but without a bar light I lost a bunch of peripheral light. I was even toying with the idea of going up to his 1.5 amp boards. Then low mode should draw about .75 amps which would be great for most applications, while high should provide some serious throw for when I'm fanging it down hill.

    I had a close look at Scar's new triple and quad XML lights and it looks like he takes some off the front of his Reginas. So the beam shots on page 11 of the Amoeba Received thread should be indicative.
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    I've combined a Quazzle XPE and XPG with good results. The XPE picked up where the XPG left off. Your XML / XPE should also be a good combo.

    The only thing I would change if I was going to do this again is to put relatively less energy into the flood light as the flood was so bright it seemed to compromise my night vision. They were both 1.5 amp boards. Elliptical optic for flood, narrow clear for throw.

  20. #20
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    Some more progress.

    So I've been chipping away at this project little by little in between jobs that actually pay the bills. I've machined all four light heads, but still need to bore out the outer two. But I was getting bored of that, so I decided to test my mounting principle by machining up a piece of stainless to join two of the light heads. The joint has a 3mm bore, to hold internal wiring and o-rings to seal them from the elements.

    Pics:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Revolver Mk II-fitting.jpg  

    Revolver Mk II-fitted.jpg  

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    Beautiful. How do you get the lights to end up being exactly parallel when you've tightened the connection?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThinkBike View Post
    Beautiful. How do you get the lights to end up being exactly parallel when you've tightened the connection?
    Thanks. To be fair, this one was a fluke. Once all those mounts are machined up I'll adjust the depth of chamfer in the housings. It doesn't have to quite perfect as the o-rings have a certain amount of squish.
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    This may be a stupid question but what does the MK stand for? I've noticed a few topics about MK builds but no mention of what MK means...

    PS: Lovely light!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThinkBike View Post
    Beautiful. How do you get the lights to end up being exactly parallel when you've tightened the connection?
    First thing that popped into my head as well.

    Is the friction from the O ring enough to give you play so that they can be aligned? Is there enough play to allow you to have one aimed slightly further down the trail? How do you plan on mounting them, I had envisaged a small "L" shaped leg coming off the joiner pipe.

    Really nice work

  25. #25
    help with the zip please
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dalistro View Post
    This may be a stupid question but what does the MK stand for? I've noticed a few topics about MK builds but no mention of what MK means...

    PS: Lovely light!
    MK, short for Mark or version

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