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Project in the making..

23K views 210 replies 23 participants last post by  Goldigger 
#1 ·
Ok..here's the start of letting me loose with the mill..
Through my haste i ordered a big junk of ali and didnt ask them to cut it nearer to the final size i need, so i have a lot of work to do.DOH!

Question for the mill users.. do you use a silting saw to chop of your ali?

Here's some pics..of my slow progress..
I had 3 P7's and ledil booms laying around so i thought i might as well use them, I could swap them for 3 XPG's and Regina's with minimal work as the front slot is 16.75mm deep 67mm x 20.5mm





 
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#2 ·
Looking good. You have been a busy boy this weekend.

As for the slitting saw I have always thought of it but never bought one. But looking at the speed you can remove large amounts of material compared to multiple passes with a slot drill I'd get one (get the wife a handbag or some new shoes or you'll be in trouble)
 
#6 ·
I tried the slitting saw aproach.. waste of time and money..
I reckon a decent hack saw would be faster..
Lucky i have a machine shop local.. got them to chop it down nearer size for me..free of charge :)

But still a long way to go, and a lot of weight to shave off.. it weighs 450g at the moment!
Need to get it to half that weight at least..

 
#8 ·
troutie-mtb said:
come on guys this was made with hacksaw / drill / files / and belt sander and a lot more flipping hours than I care to remember . bought a mini lathe just after this light
Yeah, I've got those and know how to use them So, in a couple of years, with you as inspiration, I can complete my fourth light/first ground up build? :D Maybe the XPG S2s will be readily available by then. :smilewinkgrin:
 
#10 ·
#13 ·
#18 ·
On your 4 jaw chuck turn the jaws through 180º so the longer part is securing your workpiece.

Also don't be afraid of putting some loctite thread locker on the clamps as this will stop vibrations loosening them.

I forgot about setting up the 4 jaw on the rotary table. I have always centered the jaws with some hardened bar in my lathe, then secured the 4 jaw to the centered rotary table after that using one of these for simplicity http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CO-AX-INDICATOR-MILLING-MACHINE-COAXIAL-COAX-0005-/350387973770?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5194c02e8a#ht_5110wt_1229. Setting up a 3 jaw is a piece of cake.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I was just looking for one of those.. not to sure what there called..
On this site he refers to it as an indicol..while setting up his rotary table..
https://www.cnccookbook.com/CCRotabToys.html


Just need to see if i can find a supplier in the uk...
Cheers brad.. if your ever in the uk for some strange reason i'll owe you a beer or two..
:thumbsup:

EDIT...co ax indicator is the tool i need.. just seen it on this video
https://techtv.mit.edu/videos/84-machine-shop-5 49minute mark
 
#23 ·
#24 ·
Goldigger said:
Been hacking some more grams of today.. these are just rough cuts so still not looking like kelly Brook..
Down to 300grams..
Might have to take some helium out of my dive tanks..and skirt it into the housing..at least it will serve as cooling..


A little late but when working with Aluminum, you can use an electric miter saw with a carbide toothed wood cutting blade.
Just feed the blade down nice and slowly.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Shaved a bit more off today.. havn't got far as i was making a a holder for a DTI..
Not sure how to arrange the fins.. Any ideas? front to back, how wide should the gaps be?


Can somebody enlighten me on wiring up the stat led, I'm not getting the wiring here.. looking at it, it appears to be pumping 14.4v into the resistor..
and knocking off 11.9v before it reaches the leds..(P7's)
Or does the voltage still go to the driver from the battery and the wire from the Vin+ to the resistor just piggy back?

 
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