Ok..here's the start of letting me loose with the mill..
Through my haste i ordered a big junk of ali and didnt ask them to cut it nearer to the final size i need, so i have a lot of work to do.DOH!
Question for the mill users.. do you use a silting saw to chop of your ali?
Here's some pics..of my slow progress..
I had 3 P7's and ledil booms laying around so i thought i might as well use them, I could swap them for 3 XPG's and Regina's with minimal work as the front slot is 16.75mm deep 67mm x 20.5mm
Looking good. You have been a busy boy this weekend.
As for the slitting saw I have always thought of it but never bought one. But looking at the speed you can remove large amounts of material compared to multiple passes with a slot drill I'd get one (get the wife a handbag or some new shoes or you'll be in trouble)
Cheers brad..
I didnt want to waste all the ali by removing it with a slot drill.. i could use the other half for another light..
I did pick up the hack saw....but then looked at the ali and put the saw back
I agree about the hacksaw. I reckon you'd go through 3 bottles of Gatorade, 10 cans red bull 1 liter of kero for lubricanting the hacksaw blade and possibly1 trip to hospital for a suspected heat attack, not to mention getting a tired arm
I usually use a band saw to get the block to the near finished size, but have used a slitting saw occasionally for that. I try design housings so I can cut all my fins with a slitting saw or keyseat cutter as it is so much faster than using an end mill/slot drill.
I tried the slitting saw aproach.. waste of time and money..
I reckon a decent hack saw would be faster..
Lucky i have a machine shop local.. got them to chop it down nearer size for me..free of charge
But still a long way to go, and a lot of weight to shave off.. it weighs 450g at the moment!
Need to get it to half that weight at least..
come on guys this was made with hacksaw / drill / files / and belt sander and a lot more flipping hours than I care to remember . bought a mini lathe just after this light
Yeah, I've got those and know how to use them So, in a couple of years, with you as inspiration, I can complete my fourth light/first ground up build? Maybe the XPG S2s will be readily available by then. :smilewinkgrin:
Seriously, it would be more a workout for my internal dictionary of curse words if I had to cut a chunk of aluminum like the one in this thread with that. On the plus side I may invent a new word or two
Been hacking some more grams of today.. these are just rough cuts so still not looking like kelly Brook..
Down to 300grams..
Might have to take some helium out of my dive tanks..and skirt it into the housing..at least it will serve as cooling..
I was nearly ready to through the rotary table out the window..
It took an age to try and get the 4 jaw chuck centered on it!
I had to tighten the the brass clamping screw up really tight as evertime i cut into the ali, it would lift up slightly..
I was just looking for one of those.. not to sure what there called..
On this site he refers to it as an indicol..while setting up his rotary table.. https://www.cnccookbook.com/CCRotabToys.html
Just need to see if i can find a supplier in the uk...
Cheers brad.. if your ever in the uk for some strange reason i'll owe you a beer or two..
:thumbsup:
your picture is of a standard dial indicator with magnetic base that can be used setting parts in a lathe chuck, squaring parts to the mill axis' etc or what he was doing.
Been hacking some more grams of today.. these are just rough cuts so still not looking like kelly Brook..
Down to 300grams..
Might have to take some helium out of my dive tanks..and skirt it into the housing..at least it will serve as cooling..
A little late but when working with Aluminum, you can use an electric miter saw with a carbide toothed wood cutting blade.
Just feed the blade down nice and slowly.
Shaved a bit more off today.. havn't got far as i was making a a holder for a DTI..
Not sure how to arrange the fins.. Any ideas? front to back, how wide should the gaps be?
Can somebody enlighten me on wiring up the stat led, I'm not getting the wiring here.. looking at it, it appears to be pumping 14.4v into the resistor..
and knocking off 11.9v before it reaches the leds..(P7's)
Or does the voltage still go to the driver from the battery and the wire from the Vin+ to the resistor just piggy back?
Can't help with the stat led but I would run the fins front to back, 3mm x 3mm if you have the room, deeper if you have the space available
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