Results 1 to 22 of 22
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    202

    Problem with Dinotte 200L

    I'm out last night and I've got the 200 mounted on the bar but I've also got an 20w halogen on the helmet. The 200 was originally supposed to be a spare/emergency light.

    After 40 minutes the red led comes on which shouldn't have happened. The batteries were fresh. 15 min later after a bumpy section I "think" the light makes a quick flashing than goes off. I try to turn it back on but nothing.

    I think maybe the batteries weren't as fresh as I thought but back at the trailhead I unhook the batteries and hook them back up. Light comes on. Just to check I leave it on in the truck to see how the batteries really are. It runs for another 40 min before dropping down into low mode.

    I had an experience before were the low battery indicator came on when it shouldn't have.

    Anybody else have symptons like this?
    It seems to happen when I go through rough terrain and I am riding rigid.

    I really like the light it puts out and the size but at night you need something reliable.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: flipnidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    6,401
    it sounds like something with the battery connectors not securing the batteries well enough... a quick call to Rob should sort that out...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    142
    I had this happen once on a really rough road. The battery connector came loose and I lost my light. It only happened once it may not have been all the way on.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    147
    I noticed with my Dinotte that a good connection is obtained without fully inserting the connectors. The connectors will click together and feel solid and the light will go through its diagnostics to let you know that all is well. It seems solid enough, but if you push really hard, the connectors will snap more firmly together with a really solid "clicking" feel. Once you do that, it takes a pretty good effort to pull them apart.

    The first night I used the Dinotte, I didn't have the connectors fully inserted, but still had no problems during the 20+ mile ride. I only discovered that this extra "push" was necessary by accident.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: itsdoable's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,878
    I assume you are using the AA version with the snap connector.

    We have several people running the DiNotte's and it's happened a few times. As far as we can tell, it's caused by an intermittent contact at the power connector causing the circuit to go into a weird mode (crash). The bouncing battery pouch doesn't help. Usually disconnecting and reconnecting the battery solves it. On the bars, I run an extra strap around the battery bag so it is snug against the stem or frame, and does not bounce, that has pretty much eliminated the issue. I've suggested this extra strap to Rob @ DiNotte in the past.

    This does not appear to happen with the Lithium versions, but they use a nicer co-axial connector that is much more snug.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    202

    Figured it out

    Its not the connection at the battery pack, its the actual batteries (or more than likely one) coming loose inside the pack itself.
    It happend again last night. Pressing the connector onto the pack did nothing. Pressing the batteries back into the pack bought it back.

    Next time I'm out I'll run an extra strap around the whole pack, or wrap tape around the batteries to keep them snug in the pack.

    Other than that I luv this little thing.
    I was riding with a guy who was showing off his minewt. It wasn't evan as bright the dinotte.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    306
    I had a similar problem. I was using a battery holder from Radio Shack... The Shack holder had intermittent connection on bumpy roads so the light would "flake out" like you described. Send Rob an email... He'll make things right!

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    202

    Fixed. Sort of.

    Another ride last night on the same trails.
    After putting the AA into the battery holder I wrapped 1 strand of electrical tape around the batteries to hold them in place.
    No problems. Light ran flawlessly.
    I hope they address this design flaw.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    270
    It is indeed a design flaw. Dinotte should upgrade the cable connectors, and it appears, their battery holder, in the AA light set. They know the connectors are a weak point. Just go to their site and look at the photos. All the lithium systems show the cable connections (proudly?) but in the AA systems the cable connector ends conveniently stray outside the photos, so as not to draw attention to the PP3 connectors. It is this issue that has kept me from purchasing a DiNotte AA light so far. I am researching other brands now, even flashlights.
    Last edited by denmikseb; 11-21-2007 at 09:52 AM.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by denmikseb
    It is indeed a design flaw. Dinotte should upgrade the cable connectors, and it appears, their battery holder, in the AA light set. They know the connectors are a weak point. Just go to their site and look at the photos. All the lithium systems show the cable connections (proudly?) but in the AA systems the cable connector ends conveniently stray outside the photos, so as not to draw attention to the PP3 connectors. It is this issue that has kept me from purchasing a DiNotte AA light so far. I am researching other brands now, even flashlights.
    I dunno, I love my AA set up. I think its a smart way to go. It goes well with flash lights that would run on AAs. I went to Radio Smack and got some extra battery holders for less than 2 bucks. I run two 200Ls on the bar on med power and my one helmet on full. I have a spare set for the helmet in the pocket.

    Rob is also really really good if you know how to ask for help in a nice way. Sure, a rubber ban around the pack is a sign on a flaw, but it is minor. There is also a reset for the light and once you know how to reset it most issues that could come up can get fixed.

    I think there are other ways to get 200 lum for less but they come with a +/- as well...

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    306
    I don't think the 9V connector is a design flaw... Stay away from radio shack holders and you won't have a problem. Use the holder that comes with the light and you should not have any problems.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    202
    Quote Originally Posted by p97z
    I don't think the 9V connector is a design flaw... Stay away from radio shack holders and you won't have a problem. Use the holder that comes with the light and you should not have any problems.
    I'm the one who started the thread originally and I only have the holders that came with the unit. The things don't hold the batteries in there secure enough.
    If it started happening after 2 months of use it would be different but on my first ride with it on the bars. Did anybody evan try this off road. Come on, we're talking about mt. biking. If the light cuts off at a bad moment it could be disasterous.

    I'm not trying to knock the light. I think its a great little portable system that puts out a crapload of light for the money. Better than anything out for the money right now as far as I'm concerned.

    I was actually going to let this thread die until p97z posted his remark. I just wanted it out that I'm using all stock components.

    Seeyall
    PS. If I had to do it over again I still would purchase it .

  13. #13
    TurnURComputerOff&GoRide
    Reputation: rural's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by denmikseb
    It is indeed a design flaw. Dinotte should upgrade the cable connectors, and it appears, their battery holder, in the AA light set. They know the connectors are a weak point. Just go to their site and look at the photos. All the lithium systems show the cable connections (proudly?) but in the AA systems the cable connector ends conveniently stray outside the photos, so as not to draw attention to the PP3 connectors. It is this issue that has kept me from purchasing a DiNotte AA light so far. I am researching other brands now, even flashlights.
    Errrr - Maybe I misread this, but I don't think anyone was talking about the connectors except you??

    Here's a photo of the PP3 connector from my lights next one from radio shack. The connector that's on my lights is nothing like the ones you get on kids toys, it's solid and connects very firmly. I've never had a problem and I definitely don't see them as a weak point. In fact if you look carefully, you can see how much metal is around the clip points compared to the cheap radio shack/toy level equivalent. I think these things clip on really well and the fact that they actually snap on rather than just push together like the lithium connectors is a plus in my mind. But hey, each to his own.



    I think what people are talking about is the battery holder and AA batteries not being held firmly enough in the holder (The holders are pretty typical with a metal spring at one end). Again I've never had a problem with this and all I do is MTB off road stuff. I've only ever used the holders that came with the lights. I would be a little dubious about using radioshack holders. Look at the difference between the connector types when going radioshack - I've never seen them, but maybe the battery holders are equally poor quality.

    I much prefer the convenience of AAs over lithiums - so I went that route and like I said - no problems so far after about a years use of the Ultra 5 lights and then some new 200Ls. Did I just jinx myself with this post and now my batteries are going to start magically bouncing out of the cradle as I hit drops.
    Looking at the cradles – I think batteries could work lose – but after a year and a bit of much use that’s never happened to me.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    270
    Quote Originally Posted by rural
    Errrr - Maybe I misread this, but I don't think anyone was talking about the connectors except you??

    Here's a photo of the PP3 connector from my lights next one from radio shack. The connector that's on my lights is nothing like the ones you get on kids toys, it's solid and connects very firmly. I've never had a problem and I definitely don't see them as a weak point. In fact if you look carefully, you can see how much metal is around the clip points compared to the cheap radio shack/toy level equivalent. I think these things clip on really well and the fact that they actually snap on rather than just push together like the lithium connectors is a plus in my mind. But hey, each to his own.



    I think what people are talking about is the battery holder and AA batteries not being held firmly enough in the holder (The holders are pretty typical with a metal spring at one end). Again I've never had a problem with this and all I do is MTB off road stuff. I've only ever used the holders that came with the lights. I would be a little dubious about using radioshack holders. Look at the difference between the connector types when going radioshack - I've never seen them, but maybe the battery holders are equally poor quality.

    I much prefer the convenience of AAs over lithiums - so I went that route and like I said - no problems so far after about a years use of the Ultra 5 lights and then some new 200Ls. Did I just jinx myself with this post and now my batteries are going to start magically bouncing out of the cradle as I hit drops.
    Looking at the cradles – I think batteries could work lose – but after a year and a bit of much use that’s never happened to me.
    Yes, the whole idea of using cheap battery holders that mate to cheap pp3 connecters is a design flaw in an otherwise excellent product. I really LOVE the idea of using rechargeable AA batteries but would much rather use them in a light system that had reliable co-axial cable connecters. As far as the battery holder is concerned, why don't DiNotte just include an O ring to go around it? (They like O rings). Problem solved at minimal expense! Yeah, include an O ring for the pack, better cable connecters, and start a major ad campaign about their new "improved" system. Maybe add a couple bucks to the price. I would buy it. It's a win-win for DiNotte and their customers. They could even upgrade the older models. I know that you and ( I suppose) hundreds of others have had no problems with the current connecters/battery packs, but some have and I have read those posts and reviews. So I have not bought one. And I really want one. ADDED: I have read of one case where these battery pack connecters have shorted out in a back pack causing damage. I just can't remember where.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: itsdoable's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,878
    Quote Originally Posted by liltommy
    I'm the one who started the thread originally and I only have the holders that came with the unit. The things don't hold the batteries in there secure enough.....
    I'm trying to remember if we ever had a battery come out, but we've had 2 years on the Ultra-5, and started this season on the 200L, and I have not had the batteries fall out. My battery bag is pretty snug, and I do put an extra strap around the bag and stem, but I've taken it on some pretty rocky downhills with a rigid fork. Some of the other guys don't use an extra strap, and have not had the battery come loose, but have had intermittent power contacts. If you are having problems, I'd give Rob @ DiNotte a call, he's got good CS.

    Quote Originally Posted by denmikseb
    Yes, the whole idea of using cheap battery holders that mate to cheap pp3 connectors is a design flaw in an otherwise excellent product. I really LOVE the idea of using rechargeable AA batteries but would much rather use them in a light system that had reliable co-axial cable connectors. As far as the battery holder is concerned, why don't DiNotte just include an O ring to go around it? .... ADDED: I have read of one case where these battery pack connectors have shorted out in a back pack causing damage. I just can't remember where.
    As I replied on one of the other threads, a coaxial connector is no guarantee either, we've had many of those with intermittent power issues too. And I'm probably the one that mentioned the shorting spare batteries in a hydration pack - I ride with a bunch of engineers - you'd think that throwing 2 fully loaded battery packs in a zip lock bag with bare connectors would raise a red flag... And they still like the system!

  16. #16
    TurnURComputerOff&GoRide
    Reputation: rural's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by itsdoable
    I ride with a bunch of engineers - you'd think that throwing 2 fully loaded battery packs in a zip lock bag with bare connectors would raise a red flag... And they still like the system!
    LOL - I'm an Electrical Engineer - so stop paying out on Engineers!! Yea I probably wouldn't go throwing the spare packs naked into the one bag. But then a brain fade can happen to everyone and I could see myself doing it.

    The first day that I ever have a problem with the connector, I will cut that sucker off and use something else. I've got draws full of other choices, but I can't see the added benefit in any of them yet.
    That said, the only real go if you want to be pedantic is the aircraft grade connectors. They've got great lock together systems. Cost about half what we're paying for the lights though.

    Hey - if anyone ever sees a good battery holder that can take 4 x AA please post a link up. I've looked through the component supplier catalogs and can't find anything that looks good.
    I've seen one that was metal and took 8 x AA, but I can't find a link to it or any record on the net.

    By the way – I really wanted to build my own lights, but at the end of the day, by the time I bought all the parts and paid shipping, the costs just didn’t stack up and the Dinottes where not that much more to get a professionally finished product.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by rural
    LOL - I'm an Electrical Engineer - so stop paying out on Engineers!! Yea I probably wouldn't go throwing the spare packs naked into the one bag. But then a brain fade can happen to everyone and I could see myself doing it.

    The first day that I ever have a problem with the connector, I will cut that sucker off and use something else. I've got draws full of other choices, but I can't see the added benefit in any of them yet.
    That said, the only real go if you want to be pedantic is the aircraft grade connectors. They've got great lock together systems. Cost about half what we're paying for the lights though.

    Hey - if anyone ever sees a good battery holder that can take 4 x AA please post a link up. I've looked through the component supplier catalogs and can't find anything that looks good.
    I've seen one that was metal and took 8 x AA, but I can't find a link to it or any record on the net.

    By the way – I really wanted to build my own lights, but at the end of the day, by the time I bought all the parts and paid shipping, the costs just didn’t stack up and the Dinottes where not that much more to get a professionally finished product.
    http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...lte&kw=9+volte

  18. #18
    TurnURComputerOff&GoRide
    Reputation: rural's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    91
    There's one there that's enclosed that looks like it would do the trick....
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rt&tab=summary

    Not sure if there's much room to mount a connector as the existing wiring looks a bit pathetic. But for a couple of bucks each it's cheap enough to buy a few to try out.

    Of course, going to a flat box like that means that it's not going to fit in the mounting stap/bag.
    Thanks!

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: California L33's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    699
    Quote Originally Posted by rural
    Errrr - Maybe I misread this, but I don't think anyone was talking about the connectors except you??

    Here's a photo of the PP3 connector from my lights next one from radio shack. The connector that's on my lights is nothing like the ones you get on kids toys, it's solid and connects very firmly. I've never had a problem and I definitely don't see them as a weak point. In fact if you look carefully, you can see how much metal is around the clip points compared to the cheap radio shack/toy level equivalent. I think these things clip on really well and the fact that they actually snap on rather than just push together like the lithium connectors is a plus in my mind. But hey, each to his own.



    I think what people are talking about is the battery holder and AA batteries not being held firmly enough in the holder (The holders are pretty typical with a metal spring at one end). Again I've never had a problem with this and all I do is MTB off road stuff. I've only ever used the holders that came with the lights. I would be a little dubious about using radioshack holders. Look at the difference between the connector types when going radioshack - I've never seen them, but maybe the battery holders are equally poor quality.

    I much prefer the convenience of AAs over lithiums - so I went that route and like I said - no problems so far after about a years use of the Ultra 5 lights and then some new 200Ls. Did I just jinx myself with this post and now my batteries are going to start magically bouncing out of the cradle as I hit drops.
    Looking at the cradles – I think batteries could work lose – but after a year and a bit of much use that’s never happened to me.
    Your experience is the opposite of mine. I love my 200Ls (have two of them), but one snap just kept popping off the battery pack, even when taped down. I think it's the stiffness of the factory battery snap that does it. You hit a bump and the whole thing moves and momentum can unsnap it. The Radio Shack 'toy' version of the snap it's flexible- one connector bouncing doesn't effect the other. When I replaced the factory snap with a Radio Shack snap my problems vanished.

    I didn't have as much trouble with the other one, so there is variation piece to piece, but so far the 'cheap' Radio Shack snap has proven itself more vibration resistant.

    Shortly after replacing the most troublesome snap I found that how you mount the pack effects their reliability. If you mount the battery pack so the batteries themselves are horizontal, rather than vertical the snaps don't pop off- even the one with the remaining factory snap. That, and one wrap of electrical tape around the battery pack to hold the batteries in, and you never get a flicker.

    Nota Bene: On the original 200L (not sure about the newer one with the multi-flash modes), if you have a light that flickers, that flicker will turn off the light in the flashing mode (in steady mode it flickers then comes back on). Since you're likely to be using the flash mode in the daytime you might not know it's happened. So one way or the other, if you've seen a flicker at night, fix it or your flash mode will be unreliable.
    To the troll mobile, away...

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by rural
    There's one there that's enclosed that looks like it would do the trick....
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rt&tab=summary

    Not sure if there's much room to mount a connector as the existing wiring looks a bit pathetic. But for a couple of bucks each it's cheap enough to buy a few to try out.

    Of course, going to a flat box like that means that it's not going to fit in the mounting stap/bag.
    Thanks!
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

    same one as the 200L

    I like the flat box for a pocket set...nice and flat...I'd just reverse the +/- on use this

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    270
    The connecter wiring on those Radio Shack pp3's and the battery box looks awful thin to me. If it is not at least the same gauge (or better) than DiNotte's cable there would be increased resistance and shorter run times. Does any one know of a source for the well-made pp3 connecters in the US? Those cheap Radio Shack ones can't be as good as the hard plastic hefty looking connecters that can easily be found on UK sites.
    Last edited by denmikseb; 11-23-2007 at 06:45 PM.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: California L33's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    699
    Quote Originally Posted by denmikseb
    The connecter wiring on those Radio Shack pp3's and the battery box looks awful thin to me. If it is not at least the same gauge (or better) than DiNotte's cable there would be increased resistance and shorter run times. Does any one know of a source for the well-made pp3 connecters in the US? Those cheap Radio Shack ones can't be as good as the hard plastic hefty looking connecters that can easily be found on UK sites.
    Radio Shack carries two types, regular, and heavy duty, both are flexible, which just won't bounce off no matter what you put them through. When I replaced the most troublesome stock Dinotte connector with the heavy duty Radio Shack I didn't notice any difference in the gauge of the copper wire within, but I didn't measure it. Naturally, since the Dinotte has very nice double insulated cable you keep as much of it as possible, and shorten the RS wires to the desired length.

    Edit: Also, after the mod it left me with one stock and one non-stock Dinotte connector. I've noticed no difference in run times between them, or difference in light output, so if there is increased resistance it isn't significant enough to affect battery life.
    To the troll mobile, away...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •