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  1. #1
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    Old set of Cateye Twin super halogen lights...

    Would these be good housings to base my first ever DIy LED lightset off of?
    They are bomber as hell, and have great mounting kits, as well as a good two button switch setup. I am pretty sure they were super bright back in the day, but the battery is pretty roached (HL-NC250, 12V)

    Would it be easier/cheaper to make a lighter, better battery pack? This one is a TANK.
    Thoughts?
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

  2. #2
    help with the zip please
    Reputation: emu26's Avatar
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    link?

  3. #3
    more carbon=more awesome
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    I think my father has a similar set-up to yours. I was looking at the housings a couple of months ago. Yeah I reckon it would be a pretty easy upgrade to change it to led. You may have to monkey around a bit to fit the driver, but I think there is plenty of space inside the housing for it. You'll need to make sure you have a good seating for the led board and good thermal path to the housing.

    b.
    Posting on the basis that ignorance shared is ignorance doubled.

  4. #4
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    OK, lets backtrack.
    Here is a PDF for the lights.
    http://www.cateye.com/sites/cateye/u...s/en/NC250.pdf

    I will take measurements soon, and post photos.
    This will be my first project, I don't know ANYTHING about this, really.
    How do I make a 'frame' for the driver, reflector, etc?
    How would you 'experts' proceed (and explain in a very layman way)?
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

  5. #5
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    So, wags on another forum have said "forget it, your Halogen housing will run far too hot for LED's"
    Is this true?
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

  6. #6
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    If the housing is alu then sure...if it's that nylon/delrin stuff...then nope.

  7. #7
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    It's all aluminum, will it have enough thermal (cool) properties for LED drivers/etc?
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

  8. #8
    more carbon=more awesome
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    Yes, it will have plenty of heat sink. I would recommend breaking out the digital camera and taking the housings apart so we can make some recommendations based on the space available. The more info you provide the more helpful we can be.

    b.
    Posting on the basis that ignorance shared is ignorance doubled.

  9. #9
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    From the manual - "The lamp body becomes extremely hot when turned on. Never touch the lamp body or lens until
    thoroughly cooled. Injury may result."
    so, I'm guessing an aluminium body. You'd be able to run it with LED, it is just a matter of how much heat you can dissipate as to your choice of LED.

    You didn't say what your intended use was.

  10. #10
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
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    Finned aluminum housings? I'd say you're good to go there. Seems like the trickiest part of these halogen to LED mods would be shaping an aluminum slug for good contact with the housing. The LEDs mount to the slug, and heat is conducted through it to the housing and out to the moving air.
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  11. #11
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    I just ordered some calipers, I will do a photo essay of what I have. They are decent size, I would like to throw in two triple LED's, if possible. More to come. I am a total newbie to the tech side of things...(but I did just go for a two hour solo night ride in Jackson!)
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

  12. #12
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    Not the same housing but the principle is the same

    http://www.singletrackworld.com/foru...-by-step-guide

    The switch and connector are already on a flying lead, which could be very helpful.

  13. #13
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    I am interested in this because I have a pair of these lights with wiring and holders for batteries

    Pictures should be viewable here. I hope this link works. Can I embed the pictures in this thread or link them in some other way.

    The light unit looks like a mr11 unit with two prongs that fits into the housing. If I can replace the lighting elements and the batteries in the tubes, it could work pretty well as I can get the advantage of decent weather sealing and commercial quality wiring and switches.

    several issues. How can retain the back connector and how do I facilitate sufficient heat transfer. an aluminium slug would need to be a funny shape as the internal surfaces are 'finned'
    http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/f...kybeau/cateye/

  14. #14
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    I think the first step is finding a reflector / optic that fits and you are happy with, from that you can work backwards to work out space requirements for your led, bulkhead and driver.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dickybeau

    Pictures should be viewable here. I hope this link works. Can I embed the pictures in this thread or link them in some other way.
    Copy the IMG code from photobucket and paste here



  16. #16
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    Thanks for the reply.

    As I am greener than the greenest thing, I haven't a clue where to start. Much of what I have looked at in recent times has been around 20mm (quazzle's kit as an example) but the current lamp unit is 32.5 mm and is held in place with a rubber seal -shown with the cap



    I have, roughly, 50mm of tapered height internally. the space inside the top cap is approx 37.5mm and at the bottom approx 17.5. the aperture is approx 30mm.

    I haven't taken apart the battery holders yet but in their own right, the look like a neat solution if I can fill them in the correct way

  17. #17
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    Having looked around a bit more, I wonder whether I can shoehorn a marwi conversion from El34 in there?

  18. #18
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    So you could get a 35mm reflector to fit?

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14599


  19. #19
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    Or even a drop in module if you can find one to fit?

  20. #20
    Lets RIDE!
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    I'm guessing these lights are designed for MR-11 (35mm) halogen bulbs? Cutter Electronics makes 35mm triple LED boards, and complete kits with driver and optic. (look for "Cree XR-E MR-11 buck kit...or boost kit depending on your battery choice. They do XP-E or -G versions too, although I think it's hard to beat the beam from a triple XR-E with SS optic).

    Their site should have info on depth requirements, if not, shoot them an e-mail. You could grind back those internal ribs if you need more room. If needed, the driver could be external.
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  21. #21
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    I'm not sure what you want the lights for, but maybe even a MR-11 direct drop in replacement would do?

  22. #22
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    I have a 25 mile commute with 18 miles of canal towpath and off road cycling. I currently use a Hope HID light and I am looking to have an effective replacement. My mate has a magicshine and I'm not sure how either light will last given how wet and muddy it gets in the winter around here.

    The Cateyes were my original off road lights (I can't really imagine why I went night riding in the forest and was happy with them). I was hoping to fit something that matched or surpassed the magicshine and have a small 'project' at the same time. My knowledge and skills are basic and with no access to any machinery I can only gawp in awe at some of the 'home made' light bodies I see here.

    The light body is alloy and I guess the big issue will be heat transfer if I find something to fit or make fit. the other issue is the opening in the cap that fits over the lens. the hole is 30mm approx so I don't know if it will cover or partially some of the leds if I try to fit a triple unit rather than a single led.

    I am a complete newbie and looking for any advice I can get so appreciate the knowledge here

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dickybeau
    I have a 25 mile commute with 18 miles of canal towpath and off road cycling. I currently use a Hope HID light and I am looking to have an effective replacement. My mate has a magicshine and I'm not sure how either light will last given how wet and muddy it gets in the winter around here.

    The Cateyes were my original off road lights (I can't really imagine why I went night riding in the forest and was happy with them). I was hoping to fit something that matched or surpassed the magicshine and have a small 'project' at the same time. My knowledge and skills are basic and with no access to any machinery I can only gawp in awe at some of the 'home made' light bodies I see here.

    The light body is alloy and I guess the big issue will be heat transfer if I find something to fit or make fit. the other issue is the opening in the cap that fits over the lens. the hole is 30mm approx so I don't know if it will cover or partially some of the leds if I try to fit a triple unit rather than a single led.

    I am a complete newbie and looking for any advice I can get so appreciate the knowledge here
    http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=LED+kits

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