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  1. #1
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    Niterider Trinewt vs. Cateye Doubleshot

    Niterider Trinewt vs. Cateye Doubleshot:

    Have done my homework and now I am getting close to purchase time and I need some feedback. I ride at night once a week and keep lights a fairly long time, buying my last one in 2001. So I have narrowed my search down to these two and have seen the brightness of both (1-1 comparison in shop). Price diff. between them is negligible. So I am torn. My plan is to use only one light with a helmet mount. That is my main concern, however as I have read people aren't psyched about the helmet mounting of the trinewt.

    If there was no trinewt I would prob. be wearing the cateye but that trinewt is like turning on the daylight!

  2. #2
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    Doubleshot

    You didn't say whether this was the DS Pro model but if the price is same as Trinewt it must be. I have the original Doubleshot on my helmet, and it is a total spot. It's great, very bright, good runtime, good mount, well-built, but you need a flood to go with it.

    One of my buds has a new trinewt, and it's got more flood, so if you're running a single light I would say it is the choice.

  3. #3
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    reg double shot. it is 100.00 less for the cateye. Does he run it on the helmet?

  4. #4
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    Trinewt

    I just got the trinewt today and really like it. I have heard the same about the Cat. However, I also have read and heard that it is a bit weak in the flood department. The TN reaches out a good distance and doesnt have a halo. Pretty even lighting with good color and depth perception. I rode it on back roads tonight on my commute to work. I like the fact that it has a gimble mount also. I am going to get another one for a helmet mount.

  5. #5
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    That is what I am interested in hearing about, the helmet mounting in regards to weight distribution and location of beam. I know it is farther back on the helmet and I have heard mixed things about this. I have also heard that the head lamp of the trinewt itself is no heavier then most HID lamps.....I also agree with your beam statement. If I were to rank the beams I would say:

    1. Trinewt
    2. Triple shot
    3. Double shot
    4. Minewt X2

    and the cost of the triple compared to performance of the trinewt makes that not as close to a 1-2 ratio. That being said cateye makes a great light.

  6. #6
    The Bubble Wrap Hysteria
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    I can't seem to decide on a LED light. I really dig the TriNewt but can't seem to get over the possible durability issue with the rubber band mounting system. I'm only interested in bar mounted lights that seems to work for me best. Any thoughts from those that have used the TriNewt. cheers

  7. #7
    Dr Gadget is IN
    Reputation: wadester's Avatar
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    A few hopefully helpful comments:

    I bought a doubleshot and a tripleshot when they came out. I have always loved the triple, but the double wasn't as good - mostly it didn't reach out past the triple well.

    Recently I saw a swap of SSC P4's into cateyes - pretty much a drop swap except for heat compound (see below). Did my double - much better. Did a friends triple - wow. Did my triple - and now the double/triple set is much better - twice the light. With stock cateye battery/driver.

    The other night I intersected with a group of guys - one of whom had a nice new trinewt. We did side/side comparos, and:
    P4 tripleshot completely wipes out trinewt beam - wider and brighter.
    P4 doubleshot is a very close comparison to trinewt.

    So - I would say that a trinewt is better than a stock doubleshot for light. But the guy with the trinewt was running it on the bar - and said he felt it was too heavy for a headlight. Also, you have to have a helmet vent to drop the wires into - does your helmet have a center vent or rib? My Giros have a center rib, meaning trinewt would be to one side.

    Heat compound for Cateye convert: The P4 has an electrically active base, and needs insulation, but must have heat conduction. Arctic Silver Ceramique seemed the best choice, since I didn't want permanent (epoxy). I found out that when you clamped down the LEDs, the ceramique would get to thin to function as an electrical insulator - DOH! The I got a flash: a thin, porous layer to hold the spacing but allow the ceramique to conduct heat - coffee filter! Punched out discs with a paper punch (just the right size), put down ceramique on the base, added the disc, more ceramique, spread with a screwdriver tip to ensure coverage, clamped down. Held in hand the heat ramp is the same as before, and out riding works well.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

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