Nightlightning iBlaast Details

[SBK]

Here's some basic info on the iBlaast for those interested. Mine just arrived from NZ. Don't have the battery yet (grr!) as I chose to source it locally, but figured the basic info might be useful. Folks from Nightlightning were extremely helpful with info and details when I asked, but the website itself lacks some of the basic info that I was personally interested in.

The iBlaast as shown contains the control board onboard the lighting head. It's housed in the section rearward of the cooling fins. There's a membrane switch (with small braille-like bumps so you can find/feel it) on the rear face of the light head, just above the cord junction.

Their Digital Blast DCM is the light head alone, with the controls mounted in a separate pod - joined with a y-cord to the battery. That model would allow you to place or locate the control button wherever you like, but carries extra cabling. After some debate, I chose the iBlaast version for minimal cabling and simplicity as I plan to helmet-mount. The penalty is a requirement to reach to your head to turn on-off the light, and the additional mass (~30g according to NL, as the light engine-only of the Digital Blaast is 95g) of the iBlaast.

Helmet mounting of the lighting head looks pretty straightforward. As HVSkier and others have mentioned, the helmet mount is very simple and uses some heavy-duty velcro. We use this same type of heavy interlock-type velcro (both sides are stiff plastic, no "fuzzy" velcro here) at work to help hold down electronic equipment in test vehicles. It's beefy stuff.

The front lens and outer lens ring are a snug slip-fit to the main body of the light head. It's held in place further by two set-screws, one of which is visible in my side-view shot below. It's quite secure. The optics inside are held in place by the lens itself. Has anyone tried backing optics such as these with paint or another material to force all light forward? It would seem that there's a fair bit of opportunity to increase the total forward output by covering the back face of the optic cone with white paint or a reflective material. At the same time, this may drive more of a "clover" shaped beam pattern vs. the nicely dispersed beam that appears in Nightlightning's beamshots.

I can follow up to this post with a beamshot or two if it's of interest once my light arrives and I get the kit sorted. A friend just recently purchased a Stella 180N, so I can make some comparisons, although I expect it to be apples vs. oranges with what should be a huge difference in output.

One note on my measurements: I show a mass number of 135g vs. the 125g that Nightlightning provided me in some email prior to my purchase. I expect their number is accurate without any influence from the weight of the cord itself. Without disassembling the light, I was not able to really accurately measure the mass of the light head alone. 135g was the number my scale showed after some fiddling about, doing my best to minimize the influence of the weight of the attached cord.

iblaast-01.jpg

iblaast-02.jpg

[Flyer]

Nice, very low weight. Next step- beam shot pictures on the trail

[Homebrew]

I'm looking at these as well for use with DIY battery setup. It seems to be a real clean solution. Do you have any details on the programing options for different light levels?

Also, any chance you could dig up a fully chargered NiteRider HID for comparison on you beam shots?

Thanks.

[linklemming]

Thanks for posting those measurements. I just received mine as well and it was 'alot' smaller than I expected.

Mine did have one led that did not seem to work. I took off the lens cover, reinstalled it and it has worked fine since. I will contact them tomorrow about that. Not sure it is a wiring issue since they are all in series (if a wiring contact broke, it seems like they would all go out).

Did you get the handlebar mount? I just couldnt fancy up to it although I bought one. It would be fine if it was just installed on 1 bike (you have to disassemble the mount to put it on another bike. I did anticipate this and ordered this mount.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.as...OD&ProdID=2080

After modifying this mount, I like it much better then the one they supplied. It is a litlle weird that they supply a secondary velcro strap to secure the lighthead better. I dont like that but can live with it.

I am also going to modify the helmet mount so it will mount using a couple of velcro straps so I can use it on different helmets or let a friend use it on his/her helmet.

The switch as it comes from the factory is pretty easy and intuitive to use. a simple touch turns it on. It will power up to the last brightness setting used (disconnecting battery might change this). To power off, just hold down the button till it powers off. From the factory, it has 3 light settings (low/med/high). Touching the button will cause the light to cycle up/down as follows:

Assuming the light powers on to low:

touch - med
touch - high
touch -med
touch - low
touch -med...etc

Of course, you can change many of these settings via admin mode. Can provide more details tomorrow.

All in all, a great light. I was going to go with this or the dinotte 600L. I went with this for the 'sole' reason of having the ability of changing the emitters and optics myself. Considering the extra battery the dinnote supplies makes it pretty close in price. I added the additional bar mount mentoned and used the trailtech waterproof connectors which added to the cost.

Gary

[Broussard]

I'm really loving my Blaast. Was playing around with it in the shop today
and ran it in series with my ammeter. It's only pulling 550mA on High.
Literature says it should be pulling 1,000mA.... I've got one of the first
generations of the Seoul LED's, but the Digital models should all be
pulling at least 700mA, right?

No wonder my battery lasts so long !

Can any of you guys measure your current draw on High?

I was totally satisfied with the light until I found out it might go
even brighter. The battery lasts so long I get bore trying to run it
down.

Thanks,
ZB

[linklemming]

The quoted ampere ratings are at the emitter and you are measuring at the battery.

There is a circuit converting the 14.48 Li-Ion battery voltage to drive the triple LEDs at around 10-11 volts. Since the total power is the same, the higher voltage will have less amperage (some conversion loss).

Gary

[SBK]

I'm looking at these as well for use with DIY battery setup. It seems to be a real clean solution. Do you have any details on the programing options for different light levels?

As Gary points out above, the adjustments are made solely with a series of button-press after entering the "Admin Mode." There are now an electronic copy (.pdf) of the instructions for the iBlaast up on Nightlightning's website, a direct link to the instruction .pdf can be found by clicking here. Although Nightlightning's website suggests there are more (check the link above, about halfway down the page on the right under "Approximate Power Draw"), I find ten available power settings available in the Low power mode, and ten available settings in the Medium power mode. This seems to be plenty, it allows me to set a very low output for the Low mode for stops on the trail, reading a GPS or map, and for conversation without blinding. A Medium output mode for long runtimes with decent output, and still have the ability at a touch to reach max power.

Also, any chance you could dig up a fully chargered NiteRider HID for comparison on you beam shots?

Not sure I will be riding anytime soon with anyone with a NiteRider HID, but if I do, I'll try to take some comparison beamshots per your request.

Gary, I did not buy the handlebar mount. I figured I'd be using the iBlaast as a helmet light, and initial indications are that this should work out nicely. My battery and charger arrived today, but the charger appears DOA (Batteryspace, arrrgh!!) so I'm limited in what I can check out at the moment.

[teamdicky]

I'm really loving my Blaast. Was playing around with it in the shop today
and ran it in series with my ammeter. It's only pulling 550mA on High.
Literature says it should be pulling 1,000mA.... I've got one of the first
generations of the Seoul LED's, but the Digital models should all be
pulling at least 700mA, right?

No wonder my battery lasts so long !

Can any of you guys measure your current draw on High?

I was totally satisfied with the light until I found out it might go
even brighter. The battery lasts so long I get bore trying to run it
down.

Thanks,
ZB

I didn't know you were smart.

(from the guy that has no clue what yinz are talking about)

[GrumpyOne]

I've got a Niterider Flight HID you're welcome to use for comparison. Just shoot me an e-mail or give me a call. (Maybe a Poto single speed night ride?)

jw

Not sure I will be riding anytime soon with anyone with a NiteRider HID, but if I do, I'll try to take some comparison beamshots per your request.

[eldiablo]

Gary, I did not buy the handlebar mount. I figured I'd be using the iBlaast as a helmet light, and initial indications are that this should work out nicely.

Are you using it as the only light source, ie no bar light? If so how are you finding trail detail (with the lack of shadows a bar light produces).

[iggs]

For beam comparisons have a look here> http://www.nightlightning.co.nz/endu...htm#comparison

[Homebrew]

Are you using it as the only light source, ie no bar light? If so how are you finding trail detail (with the lack of shadows a bar light produces).

I've been riding with a primary helmet light for years and haven't had a problem riding at full speed. My regular trails are fairly technical and not that fast, average about 7-8 mph. If I have a bar light, I don't use it unless it's an emergency (primary light goes out, out ride the battery, etc) or conditions mandate (fog, severe dust, etc).

[eldiablo]

how is it operating the switch on the light head with full finger gloves when its helmet mounted? Is the switch quite positive to feel?

Just contemplating the all in one iblaast or the one with the seperate DCM

[HVskier]

Just touch the back of the lighthead and you can't miss it. Don't even need to feel it, its just there.

[papitouris]

I've been consdering this for a while and have my choices narrowed down to the Nightlighting and the Lupine Wilma 4. I'm not as concerned about the price difference as I am the light throw and beam pattern. I understand the iBlaast puts out less lumens than the Wilma, however it appears brighter in the comparison photos (of course on Nightlighting's website).

Anyone elso go through the same comparison? What tipped the scales when it came to decision time?

[Homebrew]

I've been consdering this for a while and have my choices narrowed down to the Nightlighting and the Lupine Wilma 4. I'm not as concerned about the price difference as I am the light throw and beam pattern. I understand the iBlaast puts out less lumens than the Wilma, however it appears brighter in the comparison photos (of course on Nightlighting's website).

Anyone elso go through the same comparison? What tipped the scales when it came to decision time?

That's probably the old Wilma on the Nightlighting website.

[Flyer]

I think it's the new Wilma. The old Wilma was not even close. It was visibly dimmer and seemed to have half the brightness the new one does. In fact, the light test I posted was done in Aug/Sept 2007 and the Wilma's brightness is the same as the one posted on the Nightlightning site.

The Nightlightning does have a wider beam and is definitely as bright as the Wilma. The brightness difference at that level is largely irrelevant. They will look equally bright on the trail. The price and beam pattern advantage goes to the iBlaast while the construction and quality advantage goes to the Wilma. The Wilma is very well designed, solidly built, and easily programmed. Gretnabikes is here in the US in case you have any problems but Lupines have been extremely reliable.

The price around $400 with the Li-Ion battery from Nightlightning for the iBlaast while the Wilma will be around $600-$700. You can tell there is a difference in attention to detail and the Wilma is probably the best when it comes to the construction and quality.

[Flyer]

Just to throw this in as another good option- don't forget the Dinotte 600L. That is a really bright light, priced at $400, very solidly made, comes with an extra battery, and Rob and his crew are simply the most customer-focused guys in the light business.

[eldiablo]

Just to throw this in as another good option- don't forget the Dinotte 600L. That is a really bright light, priced at $400, very solidly made, comes with an extra battery, and Rob and his crew are simply the most customer-focused guys in the light business.

Although one minus for the Dinotte is no helmet mount option....
(well i dont *think* there is but i am prepared to be corrected )

I wish the big light test on the acidinmylegs site was out I have changed my mind so many times now, and just want some to ride with, Iblaast winning at moment with ayups a close 2nd

[Flyer]

I believe there is a helmet mount with the 600L. I think I have seen a picture of it on the site. You have to click on package contents or something like that.

[eldiablo]

So there is! Must have been having a relapse in my light research to miss that!

[Flyer]

Don't worry- I stare at beam patterns, look at how high the light go on surrounding trees and terrain, examine mounts, look at emitter lenses, compare bright spots versus flood areas, examine connector design, and enough else to make up for anything you miss

[eldiablo]

Don't worry- I stare at beam patterns, look at how high the light go on surrounding trees and terrain, examine mounts, look at emitter lenses, compare bright spots versus flood areas, examine connector design, and enough else to make up for anything you miss

i'm just a novice researcher in comparison!

ok then pick one of these: (just curious to see how other peoples thoughts compare to mine. And mine keep changing every day at the moment!)

Ayup system Narrow helmet, wide bars (not so powerful at moment but sounds like good upgradeability for future, and brighter LED's, better battery are on the way in few months)

Iblaast...by itself to start then if i want to use bar and helmet i'd get a 200L or a Joystick Maxx

Dinottes 600 bar 200 helmet

Wilma 6

Cost wise all are about the same by the time taxes n stuff are paid. (even the wilma wont be much more cos i can get good discount on it)

Riding is technical singletrack (in and out of heavy forest) with jumps + rock drops, Northshore type timber trails and the odd bit of fireroad. No mountain lions though

[Flyer]

I like the iBlaast and the 600L for the bar. The iBaast is slightly brighter and wider but the 600L comes with two Li-Ion batteries and the customer service is proven. You can upgrade the LEDs as well when brighter ones come out.

Helmet- I love the Joystick concept with no wires/cables and it is self-contained. However, make sure you have a center-vent on your helmet. It uses that to mount the light. I believe they have made no change to that but call James at Exposurelightsusa to confirm. Waiting list- 2-3 weeks.

So if you prefer the iBaast, get the Joystick for sure. It's a toss-up for the 600L but I think I'd still like the joystick as my helmet light IF the helmet had a center vent. If not, the 200L is a no-brainer.

I have the Wilma on my helmet and am still looking for a wider beam for the bar. In the LED world, I'm considering the iBlaast, Trinewt, and 600L. The EnduroMaXx is sweet but I have not seen any pics of how wide that new beam pattern is so I'm leery of jumping on that one.

[eldiablo]

thanks! Hadnt looked too carefully at my helmet for the joystick, i'll check that out.

RE the Enduro... i looked at that but not sure if i fancied having the battery sealed in the unit. I emailed Exposure about if its replaceable, (i read Li-ions can lose a percentage of their max charge if not stored well) but no reply yet. At least with other makes of light its easy to get another battery.