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Thread: Next bar light

  1. #1
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    Next bar light

    A few pics of what may become my next bar light housing. It will hold 6 XPGs on 10mm stars using the Cute SS 35mm triple optic. Planning to use an H6Flex. Looked OK on paper but after starting cutting it, I'm not sure everything will fit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Next bar light-p1020475.jpg  

    Next bar light-p1020482.jpg  

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    6 XP-Gs should be enough Why not XM-L though, then you'd be able to use the EVA 35mm reflector?

    where's the driver going, at the back? Kind of hard to tell from the pictures..

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    6 XP-Gs should be enough Why not XM-L though, then you'd be able to use the EVA 35mm reflector?

    where's the driver going, at the back? Kind of hard to tell from the pictures..
    XPGs because I already have them and the optics. They also work better with an existing 14.4V battery setup I have.

    Driver is planned to go into a slot cut in the bottom, behind the LED cavity. I only have the outside shape milled in these pics. I'll start on the LED cavity next.

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    ah, gotya, figured it might have been something along those lines. If you have them, you might as well use them!

    out of curiosity, why is the shape at the back the way it is?

    looking forward to the rest of it - less chat, more machining

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    out of curiosity, why is the shape at the back the way it is?

    looking forward to the rest of it - less chat, more machining
    The back is shaped to kind of mirror the shape that the triple optics and LED cavity will be. This is my first attempt at using a CAD/CAM software to generate the CNC program for a shape.

    More machining it is! A start on the LED/optic cavity. The pic is from my phone, so not too good.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Next bar light-iphone-022.jpg  


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    Looking very nice...can't wait to see the finished product.
    I WANT TO BUY YOUR MAGICSHINE LIGHTS! Working or not.

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    Project revived

    Finally got my lazy a$$ back on building. Led cavity is finished and the optics cut and glued together. Change of direction from my original plan. Still going to be 6 XPGs but I am going to run them 2S3P with an Lflex and a 7.2V battery. I know there are possibly issues with parallel strings, but I'll try it. I have done a couple lights with series MCEs in parallel and they have been fine. It will have a remote switch like my current MCE bar light. I'm making a few extra switch housings in case anyone has an interest. They will be similar to the one in this thread....

    Another dual MC-E

    except made of black Delrin.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Next bar light-dscn0409_004.jpg  

    Next bar light-dscn0413_006.jpg  


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    Looking really good mate. You will certainly get plenty of light. My 7up xpg/xpe is still my favourite because the optics match so well.

    I love the way you've undercut the optic support to reduce weight

    I look forward to seeing the finished light.

  9. #9
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    Looks very neat and very different. It's always good when someone pushes the boundaries of what is possible as it opens up different lines of thought.

  10. #10
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    Tried to do some more work on the light and remote switch housings today, but the DRO on my mill wouldn't turn on. Looks like some trouble with a voltage regulator. Supposed to have 5V out of one board but only getting 3.8V. I'll have to do a bit of looking for parts Monday.

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    Damn electronic Gremlins ruining a good night. hope you get it fixed soon.

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    looking very neat, looking forward to the rest

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    Nice to see that this light is finally going to come alive.
    you have given an idea!
    Could you recommend a glue for gluing optics together please.

    good luck with your build

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    Very cool looking light!

    Since you are into super minimalist designs, I'll ask here and hopefully not threadjack. A while back, Troutie posted a pic of a triple XPG that mounted on the front of his bars. It was barely even there. I PM'd him about whether it worked or not, but haven't heard back. Any of you try that? Seems like you could run a couple of L334's, maybe one throw one flood and use the bars and body as heatsink and just run a y cable to them through a switch.
    "It looks flexy"

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    Strange I did reply to you via the email on your message.

    The upshot of it was I never got around to ordering the boards from Quazzle.
    so the little beasty never got used

    I am sure it would work well apart from the reflections from the cables

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty View Post
    Could you recommend a glue for gluing optics together please.
    I just used some model cement because it is clear and has a fairly thick consistency. The optics are made of a type of acrylic. Acrylic is a very easy plastic to glue. Don't use superglue as it "clouds" the optics usually

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
    Since you are into super minimalist designs, Seems like you could run a couple of L334's, maybe one throw one flood and use the bars and body as heatsink
    I have carbon bars so have never built anything that would use them for heatsinking. That has been done, to the best of my memory, by others.

    When Quazzle's module was announced I planned a tiny build for a helmet light with one. I dropped the idea after discovering the Carclo 20mm triple optic's beam shape is not to my liking. I love the idea of minimal builds, but not at the sacrifice of a beam I like.

  18. #18
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    How bad is the beam with a narrow clear? That's what I have - and a narrow frosted.
    "It looks flexy"

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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
    How bad is the beam with a narrow clear? That's what I have - and a narrow frosted.
    I don't want to say it's a bad beam, it just is too much flood and not much throw with XPGs for my preference. I don't like having much light spread out to the sides. I find the shadows that creates to be an eye catching distraction. Offroadbent says the throw is good with XPEs.

    My gut feeling is that the light in this thread will have more flood than I want. If it does, it will be easy to find a new home for it and build something else.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I don't want to say it's a bad beam, it just is too much flood and not much throw with XPGs for my preference. I don't like having much light spread out to the sides. I find the shadows that creates to be an eye catching distraction. Offroadbent says the throw is good with XPEs.

    My gut feeling is that the light in this thread will have more flood than I want. If it does, it will be easy to find a new home for it and build something else.
    Why not build it with XPE from the start? Plenty of LED's and the XPE, from the pictures that I've seen, really does have a smaller beam.
    "It looks flexy"

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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
    Why not build it with XPE from the start? Plenty of LED's and the XPE, from the pictures that I've seen, really does have a smaller beam.
    I am still quite partial to the XPE's as their beam pattern is always good and because i drive them 750-1000mA I always get good battery life

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
    Why not build it with XPE from the start? Plenty of LED's and the XPE, from the pictures that I've seen, really does have a smaller beam.
    Ha, good question. Mainly because it uses up most of the XPGs I have on hand. Everyone asks about XMLs now.

  23. #23
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    [QUOTE=Vancbiker

    My gut feeling is that the light in this thread will have more flood than I want. If it does, it will be easy to find a new home for it and build something else.[/QUOTE]

    If you do find it has too much flood you could try sanding then poilishing the bobbles off the optic. It worked for me on my quad when I polished the bobbles of two of the lenses and left the other two as was to create a wide beam with a hot spot in the centre.

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    A little more progress

    Finally managed a little more time for working on the light. A cavity for the power cable connector and wire passage into the LED cavity have been machined in. The connector is an M8 3 pole (though I'll only be using 2poles). Also pretty much finished up a batch of remote switch housings.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Next bar light-dscn0451.jpg  

    Next bar light-dscn0453.jpg  

    Next bar light-dscn0456.jpg  

    Next bar light-dscn0464.jpg  

    Next bar light-dscn0466.jpg  


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    Looking great mate and I love the remote switches. I was wondering how you were progressing.

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    Vancbiker,
    It's a beauty. I admire the way you cut the flats for the M8 connector. The remote switch housings are way cool too. I'm looking forward to the finished product.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SBJohn View Post
    I admire the way you cut the flats for the M8 connector.
    Thanks. It would certainly be easier to have just drilled an 8mm hole, but the possibility that the connector could turn in the housing and break the wires would bug me.

    edit: spelling correction
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 01-08-2012 at 04:12 PM.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty View Post
    If you do find it has too much flood you could try sanding then poilishing the bobbles off the optic. It worked for me on my quad when I polished the bobbles of two of the lenses and left the other two as was to create a wide beam with a hot spot in the centre.
    Hey Yeti. I'm interested in this idea. Was it a ton of work? Do it by hand or with power tools? Have you posted any pics of the result?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Hey Yeti. I'm interested in this idea. Was it a ton of work? Do it by hand or with power tools? Have you posted any pics of the result?
    No it wasn't a ton of work and was almost too easy, so easy that I got a bit carried away

    First I polished two of the optics(cute 4) and got a nice bright, far reaching hot spot and the other two optics provided wider light on the ground , just like the Regina reflector.

    I liked it so much that after a few weeks riding with it I couldn't resist doing the other two and ended up with a crap lazer beam. You can't stick the bobbles back on

    Best to use some wet and dry to sand, then use a Dremel with a polishing doodah to get them smooth (not too high speed or they'll melt). 5 mins per optic.

    Just do one at a time untill you like the beam.

    EDIT: Just to point out that my quad uses XR-E LEDs that are known for their throw. I have never tried it with any other type of LED.
    Last edited by yetibetty; 01-08-2012 at 02:13 PM.

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    A home for the lflex

    The housing for the lflex and the cable entry for the remote switch got made today. Too small to put in a proper strain relief. I decided to tap a hole over the cable and install a flat point setscrew. Between it clamping the cable jacket and some polyurethane sealant I think it will be sturdy and waterproof.

    Also taking advice from yetibetty smoothed the bumpies from the optic face. Not taking his advice, I did the entire optic assembly. Hoping for a tight, throwy beam.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Next bar light-dscn0473.jpg  

    Next bar light-dscn0474.jpg  

    Next bar light-dscn0475.jpg  

    Next bar light-dscn0505.jpg  


  31. #31
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    I'm pretty sure troutie polished one of his cute 3 optics for the XM-L, sure he said it didnt do the xm-l any favours..

  32. #32
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    Vancbiker, I really like your work but won't 6 xpg's from a 14.+v battery kill that lflex? My understanding from what George has said in other threads was ideally 1 LED from one cell or 2LED's from a 2 cell battery nut not more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26 View Post
    Vancbiker, I really like your work but won't 6 xpg's from a 14.+v battery kill that lflex?
    I've changed direction on this light as far as the battery. I am going to a 7.4V system. The LEDs will be wired 2S3P. Lflex at 3A so each XPG string will see 1A. I have only done parallel MCEs before. Hopefully no problems with the XPGs. I have a few extra XPGs than I need, so will try to sort the best matched Vf sets.

    Other than a mount, and fins, all the metalwork is done. With everone going to anodized parts and having them look sooooo nice, I am thinking about springing the $50 that a local ano shop charges for minimum lot.

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    wow

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    Wow indeed!

    Vancbiker, told you it was easy to get carried away. You may find that you will be pojecting the square die shapes now that you have polished all six. Best try and have all of the LEDs orientated the same way or you could end up with a beam like a star of many points.

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    have you thought about including the Lflex in with the switch like this



    only better

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    Hey Chris I was looking at doing that for the aspheric helmet light I am making. Any idea if there would be heat problems or is it a case or ensuring that the lfex is thermal epoxied to the alloy it should be fine. I also assume I would need to use non acetic silicone so it doesn't corrode the circuit.

    Perhaps I should just do it and see.
    Last edited by brad72; 01-09-2012 at 01:50 PM.

  38. #38
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    Brad that was an inline driver I did for a Ayup that had died it had burnt out the resister
    the lflex was fit as normal with the tape and a tiny bit of I think it Kapton tap over the switch

    then I used the serious glue not silly cone to make the cover

    yes it warms up but does the job of heatsinking the driver that was quite a while ago now and its still working I believe.

  39. #39
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    Fantastic Chris, thanks for that. Never heard or serious glue but it's funny how every nation has different names for their adhesives.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post
    have you thought about including the Lflex in with the switch like this
    I really like having the driver in the head so the thermal sensing magic that George so kindly provides will save the light. I have done a couple lights that were too small to hold a driver. Just used the buckpuck mounted with the battery instead of a flex driver to save a bit of money.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty View Post
    No it wasn't a ton of work and was almost too easy, so easy that I got a bit carried away

    First I polished two of the optics(cute 4) and got a nice bright, far reaching hot spot and the other two optics provided wider light on the ground , just like the Regina reflector.

    I liked it so much that after a few weeks riding with it I couldn't resist doing the other two and ended up with a crap lazer beam. You can't stick the bobbles back on

    Best to use some wet and dry to sand, then use a Dremel with a polishing doodah to get them smooth (not too high speed or they'll melt). 5 mins per optic.

    Just do one at a time untill you like the beam.

    EDIT: Just to point out that my quad uses XR-E LEDs that are known for their throw. I have never tried it with any other type of LED.
    By jingo Yeti it does tighten the beam up on the triple xml
    I have just done it to one and compared them on the wall side by side cant wait till dark now to go out and try them

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post
    By jingo Yeti it does tighten the beam up on the triple xml
    I have just done it to one and compared them on the wall side by side cant wait till dark now to go out and try them
    Beamshots??

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Beamshots??
    OK

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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post
    OK
    Dam, its about 25% narrower..I'll have to do one of mine now..Cheers
    Can i borrow your pic please chris for the dive monkeys?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    Dam, its about 25% narrower..I'll have to do one of mine now..Cheers
    Can i borrow your pic please chris for the dive monkeys?
    Och aye the noo borrow away

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Dam, its about 25% narrower..
    Nice! I have higher hopes for this light now. Thanks for the tip yeti!

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post
    By jingo Yeti it does tighten the beam up on the triple xml
    I have just done it to one and compared them on the wall side by side cant wait till dark now to go out and try them
    It should also be quite a bit brighter too as those bobblets hold back quite a bit of light.

  48. #48
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    Here is a little video of the flame polish after rubbing it down with 500 grit paper

    flame polish an optic - YouTube

  49. #49
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    Righteo ist comparison time though not a complete one as the unmodded light has U2 2S tints and the sanded smooth one has T5 in cool white not sure what tint





    it certainly seems to improve throw but there is a downside and that is quite alot of strange artifacts around the edges
    the three legs on the optic give three little lights around the edge

  50. #50
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    Could paint the legs black? That might stop them absorbing any light..might even have to paint the 3 visible circles on the front of the optic..

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