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  1. #1
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    New resistor based driver board for SSC P7 - Marwi's

    I cut out a new driver board design on my CNC and then assembled a few Marwi P7 conversions to test how easy it was and how much labor was required to convert a Marwi halogen to SSC P7.



    My previous driver board design was way too complicated for the average person to assemble and it took way too long, which meanst that I could not afford to build lights because of the huge amount of labor.

    This new driver board is very easy to assemble and it has tested out fine so far.

    I set up a web page with a bunch of build info. If anyone cares to take a look, please let me know if anything seems unclear or there is something that seems to be missing or is not understood.
    I need to make it as simple as possible for the average DIY'er.

    Ill be adding the new parts to my web store as soon as I get enough cut and the web page instructions are dialed in.

    Let me know if something is not clear or more detail needs to be added to this web page. Big pics and more info here.

    http://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights40.htm






    Several converted Marwi P7's

    Thanks for any help you can offer
    Doug

  2. #2
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    I added a part listing page here that shows all the parts needed for this conversion.
    http://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/PartsList1.htm

  3. #3
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    nice job!

  4. #4
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    Thanks, appreciate that.

  5. #5
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    Will you be offering a kit based on Pic #2 in the first post? I know it's all available from your site, but FWIW it'd be easier for potential customers (such as me) to click once to get all the pieces shown to assemble a Marwi to P7 conversion. If it's already there, sorry I missed it

  6. #6
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    I don't have kit buttons on my shopping cart that can add a bunch of items at one time. I will check into it and see if it can be done.

    I have to keep inventory control on each item, and so all the items would have to be added at once to the shopping cart. I'm not sure that is possible.

    Also, each item must be listed individually because I pick the pats one at a time from bins using your shopping cart list. The bin numbers are listed there for each item.

    If I had an item that just said kit, it would not tell me what to pick from the bins and each items on hand quantities would not get reduced properly and I would probably screw it up because I have to pick orders quickly.

    The shopping cart orders are all imported directly from my web server, right into quickbooks. I don't do any hand typing of any data. It's the only way I can get all my orders done, everything is automated.

    I added all the parts using that parts listing on my web site in about 3 minutes yesterday which is not bad. A way to make the cart go quicker is to use your BACK button on your browser instead of the continue shopping button.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the detailed response.

  8. #8
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    I did some testing last night.
    Could not get the shopping cart to add more than one item.
    I had to leave the shop, I'll do some more testing today.

  9. #9
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    Ok, I figured out how to make one button add all the items at once.

    Go ahead and push it to see if it works.

  10. #10
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    I clicked it- it worked. Give me a month and I will order it up.

  11. #11
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    Cool beans

  12. #12
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    EL, I like what you're doing here. The conversions kit using the resistors looks to be a slam dunk. Some questions: What bin P-7 are you selling with the conversions? I'm pretty certain If I did one of these I would want to use an M-bin. The glass lens, are these coated lenses? The standard 35mm reflector, are these OP reflectors? * edit:...This stuff comes with directions right?

    I figure if I buy the complete kit and one of the Turboferret battery setups I might squeeze by somewhere around $100.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 08-06-2009 at 09:50 PM.

  13. #13
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    hey cat,
    It's the same P7 that DX sells. Not sure what bin that one is though.

    Here's the links to the P7, Glass and relectors I use.
    DX does not give much info on any of them

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12721

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14599

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10643

    This web page has all the assembly instructions
    http://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights40.htm



    Not sure what the battery holder cost or what your batteries will cost you, but you can probably could do it for less than $100

    All the parts you see here on my web are are only $41 without a P7, so all you need is a battery pack

  14. #14
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    Hey EL34, is DX now shipping the correct reflector?

  15. #15
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    yes, the last two shipments I received were the correct reflectors.

    They never did refund my money for the wrong ones I sent back.
    It's was a battle with DX and I lost.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34
    hey cat,
    It's the same P7 that DX sells. Not sure what bin that one is though.

    Here's the links to the P7, Glass and relectors I use.
    DX does not give much info on any of them
    Oh crap...I meant C-bin....M-bin is on the MCE. Okay if you are using the ones you listed those should be fine.

  17. #17
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    Kit button is very helpful. I'm planning to order a kit to build a helmet light, but have a question about wiring. You mention on the build page that excessive wire length will negatively impact the light - how much of the 18ga zip wire between battery pack and light is too much? I want to keep the battery in my pack, not on the helmet.
    Thanks

  18. #18
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    Wire length is critical when the wire diameter/gauge is too thin to carry the current.
    Thin wire/cheesy connectors and and high currents = voltage drop.
    The big 18gauge stuff I use is not a problem for backpack length wires.

    I use 24" lengths for my lights.
    The wire reaches down into my camelback HAWG pack, no problem.
    If you are taller or need more wire, it should not be a problem.

    I like to have the 24" long wire attached to the light and a shorter wire on the battery pack.
    This way, you don't have a connector banging against your helmet, and the connectors are down indside the pack where they cannot be pulled apart accidentially by limbs, sticks, crashes, etc.

    see ya
    Doug

  19. #19
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    Love my Marwi conversion kit

    For the record, I got parts for a conversion to a P7 and love it. I used a different driver board, but used his Marwi body and heatsink. I love the heatsink, did I say LOVE it, yes, I did. The only thing to watch is the Marwi bar mount, which is made for smaller handlebars, not the oversized ones on a lot of newer bikes. I have to improvise, but it works fine now.

  20. #20
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    Howdy, glad you like the parts.
    That heat sink is the Shite, no?
    I would be interested in other driver mods that folks come up with.
    Can you explain your driver?

    Not sure what Marwi handlebar mount you got?
    The old style is only for 25mm bars
    The new style has removeable adapters and it works on 25mm or 31mm bars.
    This is the new style bar mount.


  21. #21
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    I bought a 3-mode driver from shiningbeam.com that runs something like .7A, 1.5A, and 2.5A. It isn't listed on their site right now because they must be out of stock. I like it a lot because it goes Low/Med/High and the low mode is low enough to see with but not too bright.

    I was able to keep the original switch for the Marwi, I just soldered a wire to one of the connectors and used the other original wire to connect to the driver.

    A little copper tape to really snug up the heatsink and I was in business.

    As for the DX P7 emitters, mine was fairly blue, not nearly as warm as the ones you have.

  22. #22
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    Cool, if you remembr, can you give me the link when the part is back on their web site?


    On those Marwi bodies, they are a stamped aluminum body and so the tolerances are not as tight as say a CNC product.
    I have noticed that my heat sink fits tighter or looser in some bodies.

    It is real easy to reduce the Marwi/heat sink area for a tighter fit.

    You just need something round like a hose clamp.
    Tighten it down around the Marwi body until you get the perfect fit.

    I just adjusted 20 of the black bodies for a real nice fit with the heat sink.

  23. #23
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    EI34- I think this might be the link for the driver xiejol was taling about.


    http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/t...rd-1160/Detail

  24. #24
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    Ah ,ok.

    No spec's listed.
    Don't know what the diameter and height is?

    Bad fuzzy photo.

  25. #25
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    This is all the details under the photo bottom of page.....

    *16mm base board with 6mm max height
    *Accepts 3.6V ~ 9V input power
    *Lead wires already soldered on the board
    *Ideal for Cree, Rebel and SSC LED emitters.

  26. #26
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    Only 800 mA

    Quote Originally Posted by mojojojoaf
    This is all the details under the photo bottom of page.....

    *16mm base board with 6mm max height
    *Accepts 3.6V ~ 9V input power
    *Lead wires already soldered on the board
    *Ideal for Cree, Rebel and SSC LED emitters.

  27. #27
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    crap, I looked at it too quickly, Thanks for the brain jog.

    That board says 800ma and nothing about 3 modes??


    I bought a 3-mode driver from shiningbeam.com that runs something like .7A, 1.5A, and 2.5A.
    wonder if that is the same board?

  28. #28
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    How about this one?
    17mm, 2A (after mods? single mode?)

    http://litemania.org/product.php?id_product=13

    I have one of your heatsinks, a P7 and a marwi style housing. I'm still deciding how to drive the whole mess
    I'm still a little worried about heat above 2A for very long.


    Quote Originally Posted by El34
    crap, I looked at it too quickly, Thanks for the brain jog.

    That board says 800ma and nothing about 3 modes??



    wonder if that is the same board?

  29. #29
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    I am looking for a driver for guys that want to run series packs, 7.2 volts or higher.
    That one is 3.3v to 6 volts

    3.6 volt is not a problem with the 1400ma 7135 boards or the simple resistor boards I sell.

    I'm still a little worried about heat above 2A for very long.


    I run them for 3+ hours without a problem.
    You can run them lower if you don't need as much light.
    Or you can just let er rip and then stop worrying.





  30. #30
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    been looking at your kit... had a few questions...

    i've got a 6v 4ah SLA battery... will this work ok with your kits? any idea how long it would last?

    has anyone used the dual lamp model?

    and lastly... any idea how bright the p7 is vs cutter cree xre mr11 boost kit build?

    going from a marwi haylogen thats just not quite bright enough for my commute...

    thanks
    mark
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  31. #31
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    The 6 volt battery packs are perfect for the MR11 Marwi halogens, but you would need a driver board to bring down the voltage to 3.6volts and control the current

    I have taken plenty of those old Marwi battery packs apart, but they were all Ni-Mh.
    You said lead acid so this may not work since the voltages may be higher then 1.2volts on each cell? Not sure what cells they used in the lead acid packs. Also, you said 4AH so you probably only have 5 cells inside?

    The Ni-Mh packs all had those nice green Sanyo 4/3 FAU's
    There were 5 cell flat packs and 10 cell packs for running dual lights

    You can resolder the batteries into series of 3 batteries. 3 x 1.2 = 3.6 volts.
    They all had nice long solder tabs.

    If you had one of the big water bottle batteries, you would have 10 cells inside to use.
    You can then make 3 - series sets and then solder all 3 series sets into a parallel arrangement for more run time.

    Then I guess your charger would be useless and so all this crap I typed is not very usefull.

    Someone else may have a good driver board suggestion for using the 6 volt pack as it is.

  32. #32
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    thanks for the info man... the SLA is a single huge battery... like a smaller version of what goes into power heels or whatever... came with one of the newer marwi halogens... guess i'll reserch voltage regulators now
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  33. #33
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    ok, so you have one big cell like a small motorcycle battery.
    Never seen the Marwi SLA's.

    Maybe that board mojojojoaf was talking about a few post up would do the trick?
    I guess you don't want to let go of that lead acid battery?
    Is it still in good shape?

    Just asking because, the 18650's are pretty cheap from DX, maybe about $3.50 each, and the chargers are less that $10.
    The weight difference between a SLA battery and 4x18650's is huge.

    Just throwing out info

  34. #34
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    18650s are the way to go. No one is going to lug around a 5lb SLA battery, even if it's only $10.

    BTW - the 4/3A NiMHs in my old marwi nightpro elite were still pretty strong after >600 recharge cycles.

    El34 - why don't you make your battery holder 4x18650 in parallel? That would drive a P7 without need for a driver, right - plus give ~3 hrs runtime.

  35. #35
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    El34 - why don't you make your battery holder 4x18650 in parallel? That would drive a P7 without need for a driver, right - plus give ~3 hrs runtime.
    working on it Vern.
    Yet another 18650 battery holder :)

    I am doing some more CAD drawings right now and will be cutting a 2nd protype on the CNC in an hour or so.

    I received the Battery + and - terminals and they are really nice.

    I solder my 4 x 18650 packs together, but I realize that most people want battery holders.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojojojoaf
    EI34- I think this might be the link for the driver xiejol was taling about.


    http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/t...rd-1160/Detail

    That isn't it. The one I bought was shaped differently and ran low-med-high. I don't know the size, but it fit into the heatsink just fine.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dream Plus
    I have one of your heatsinks, a P7 and a marwi style housing. I'm still deciding how to drive the whole mess
    I'm still a little worried about heat above 2A for very long.

    A little copper tape to ensure heat transfer and you'll be fine. I run a 1.5 hour commute on high (2.5A) and while the body does get hot while standing still it is only a little warm while moving. When I stop for any long amount of time I drop it to low or medium anyway. This fall and winter I'll run it for at least two hours and I'm not worried about that, either.

    I'm using two 2600mAh 18650s in parallel because the driver is only rated to 6V max.

    Here in a couple of weeks I'll be buying a MC-E P60 dropin from DX and making a simple light as a backup for this unit. I'll post comparison pics then.

  38. #38
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    so if we're happy with on and off. can we use these for a 2xMCE build rather than a maxflex?

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