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  1. #1
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    New Light (in over my head)

    Hey guys this is the new design for my light, due to lack of funds instead of getting a custom body made im going to sacrafise my Maglite 4D and use the head to accomidate both driver and emitters.

    Its going to accomidate 2 XML's and a triple XPG the two XML's will run in series with the triple XPG which I have wired up in parallel. So will run XML- 3xXPG (parallel)- XML. All powered with a B6FLEX driver set up at 2800 max amps running of a 14.8v 4s2p 18650 battery pack.

    My question is firstly is this a good idea to set up like this? and secondly will the Maglite head be able to cope with the heat created? I was hoping to put some finage in the body the increase surface area and have a 48mm diameter by 8mm pill to place all the leds onto.

    Adleysh
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  2. #2
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    P.S I dont know why it decided to cut the top off the drawings

  3. #3
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    what's the triple XP-G for? The 2 XM-Ls should give you more than enough flood and most people think that the 20mm triple optics with XP-G are pretty floody. If you're set on that design I'd recommend a triple XP-E2 instead, you'll get far more throw out of it.

    For the amount of effort this is going to take, I'd personally recommend one of the Easy2LED 35mm housings and a triple XM-L. Tons of light, super easy build and plenty of cooling. They're pretty reasonably priced for what you get too.

  4. #4
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    I kind of doubt you'll have enough surface area, but ... If this is an Inventor file (looks like an .IDW) ... Add another sketch to the part, fill the inside via another extrusion, then look at the properties of the file, by right-clicking on the part in the browser panel, go to the physical tab of the dialogue box, and look at the area ... This will be the external surface area of the housing.

    Also,
    Set the material type to see an accurate weight ... Under document setting (tools tab), change the units, if needed ... I prefer to view such things in grams YMMV.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    what's the triple XP-G for? The 2 XM-Ls should give you more than enough flood and most people think that the 20mm triple optics with XP-G are pretty floody. If you're set on that design I'd recommend a triple XP-E2 instead, you'll get far more throw out of it.

    For the amount of effort this is going to take, I'd personally recommend one of the Easy2LED 35mm housings and a triple XM-L. Tons of light, super easy build and plenty of cooling. They're pretty reasonably priced for what you get too.

    Come on Matt effort and struggling is part and parcel of this diy lark not doing it the easy way .
    Mag heads make great doner hosts go for it Adleysh

    but do agree about the triple xp`s being a bit pointless I would go for 3 XMLs and the 50 mm Rocket optic Cutter Electronics
    works well with the XMls

  6. #6
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    just saying

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the replys guy's and Happy New Year to all.

    There is a little bit of method in my madness, I was looking to use this light not just for riding but also to use for working on the car, camping etc.... so was looking for something really floody but that could also be used on the bike. I know that generalising a light isnt the best of ideas but am stuck for money atm and cant afford to get any more parts in

    Originally it was just going to be a double XML but I had the triple XPG left over from converting a mini Maglite tourch so thought i would throw it in anyways. So my question now is do i go back to the original plan of just double XML or do I go ahead with the additional XPG's? Will it be usable as a bike light with the limited throw?

    Also the reason for not getting one of the easy2diy bodys is I have already made a helmet light using one of the smaller body's and thought I would try a different path for the next build.

    Cheers,

    adleysh

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    I'd stick to the 2x XM-L + 3xXP-G idea. Additional amount of light is always welcome. For the triple I would use Carclo 10507 (assuming it is the 20mm PCB) optics and for the XM-Ls I would use something like LXP-RS, LXM, LC1, or similar to get the tightest possible beam shape. The triple XP-G might get washed out by the XM-Ls so I would even consider double driver setup to be able to use XP-Gs separately, using two buck drivers and 4S battery setup.

    Just my 2 cents

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79 View Post
    I'd stick to the 2x XM-L + 3xXP-G idea. Additional amount of light is always welcome. For the triple I would use Carclo 10507 (assuming it is the 20mm PCB) optics and for the XM-Ls I would use something like LXP-RS, LXM, LC1, or similar to get the tightest possible beam shape. The triple XP-G might get washed out by the XM-Ls so I would even consider double driver setup to be able to use XP-Gs separately, using two buck drivers and 4S battery setup.

    Just my 2 cents
    Ok will stick in the additional XPG's the triple lens I have for them is the lens you suggested and for the XML's I went for the Carclo 20mm plain tight lens 12.4 degrees, Do you think that would be ok?

    How would I wire up the two drivers if i went down that route? The led side would be fine but on the battery side would i wire the drivers up in series or parallel or possibly run each driver of a different battery. Say if i take my 4s2p and split it to make 2x 4s1p?

    cheers

  10. #10
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    If you decide for the two drivers setup, you would be wiring one driver with 2 XM-Ls in series and one driver with 3 XP-Gs in series. If using say B3Flex you would wire 4S2P battery and connect it to both drivers-prallel. No need to split the battery unless you want to loose some weight.

    Cant help you with the 20mm Carclo since I haven't used it my self nor have I seen any beam shots, but I guess 12.4 deg. should do fine if that's 12.4 for the XM-L and not for any smaller emitter.

    Good luck with the build!

  11. #11
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    I think matt tried the carclo 20mm optic and said that the Ledil LC1 was much better..
    If you have an RS local you can get the LC1 from there... They are only a couple of quid.

    personally I would just use 3 XM-L's, and drop the XP-G's.
    I would have thought the 3 XP-G's would put out more heat than 1 XM-L?

  12. #12
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    I'd personally go with the 10deg XM-L optics from LED-DNA over any others - the LC1 is fine, but too spotty IMO, and I wasn't all that impressed with the Carclo. It's alright and if it was the only one available it would do, but there are plenty better optics out there. If I wasn't building a new helmet light, I would have swapped out the Carclo for a LED DNA optic ages ago.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    personally I would just use 3 XM-L's, and drop the XP-G's.
    I would have thought the 3 XP-G's would put out more heat than 1 XM-L?
    Another vote for dropping the triple xpg for an XML, I thinks its time to get some ordered, cheers guys as I am new to this your experiences will no doubt save me time and effort

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeabuser View Post
    I kind of doubt you'll have enough surface area, but ... If this is an Inventor file (looks like an .IDW) ... Add another sketch to the part, fill the inside via another extrusion, then look at the properties of the file, by right-clicking on the part in the browser panel, go to the physical tab of the dialogue box, and look at the area ... This will be the external surface area of the housing.

    Also,
    Set the material type to see an accurate weight ... Under document setting (tools tab), change the units, if needed ... I prefer to view such things in grams YMMV.
    Finally got round to doing this little trick and the total surface area added up to near enough 1300mm˛.
    If any one has the calculation for working out the surface area needed for such a light that would be great or even a link to a thread already set up as i cant seem to find one.

    cheers.

  15. #15
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    That cant be right its only just over 2 sq inches by that reckoning .

    Anyways screw the hi tech approach and go with your finning of the mag head and whack in 3 xmls I have done a few mag heads and they cope fine with the heat in this damp cold country .

  16. #16
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    as far as google tells me 1in.sq = 645mm.sq and the general rule of thumb used on here is 1W per in.sq surface area minimum (ie. with some airflow). A more conservative rule is 1W per 2in.sq.

    So, 1300mm.sq I think = 2in.sq, which just doesn't sound right for a Maglite head. I would have thought you'd be in the 15in.sq range at least, as the circumference of the head should be around 8in (phi r squared right? and it's 50mm diameter).

    1 XM-L @3A is around 10W, give or take, so it's relatively easy to work out from there.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb View Post
    That cant be right its only just over 2 sq inches by that reckoning .

    Anyways screw the hi tech approach and go with your finning of the mag head and whack in 3 xmls I have done a few mag heads and they cope fine with the heat in this damp cold country .
    Sorry guys forgot a zero good job i dont work for nasa, its 13000mm˛ which should give me 20inch˛ so looks like I will be a bit short of surface area.

    As troutie says in our loverly climate I may get away with it, but will need to set the H6Flex at around 60 degrees for protection.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    as far as google tells me 1in.sq = 645mm.sq and the general rule of thumb used on here is 1W per in.sq surface area minimum (ie. with some airflow). A more conservative rule is 1W per 2in.sq.

    So, 1300mm.sq I think = 2in.sq, which just doesn't sound right for a Maglite head. I would have thought you'd be in the 15in.sq range at least, as the circumference of the head should be around 8in (phi r squared right? and it's 50mm diameter).

    1 XM-L @3A is around 10W, give or take, so it's relatively easy to work out from there.
    So you're saying that my 6 XPG2 @ 1.5A in about 16.5" of surface area isn't going to live very long. LOL - I knew that I was overtaxing the housing, but I didn't realize by how much.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    So you're saying that my 6 XPG2 @ 1.5A in about 16.5" of surface area isn't going to live very long. LOL - I knew that I was overtaxing the housing, but I didn't realize by how much.
    if the driver doesn't have any temp protection and you stand around with it on full for long, then yes, it probably won't last long Otherwise you'll probably be fine with some airflow and low air temps. The only time I run into heat problems with my lights is in the middle of summer, with air temps between -10 and -20C, I don't usually have too many problems!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet View Post
    if the driver doesn't have any temp protection and you stand around with it on full for long, then yes, it probably won't last long Otherwise you'll probably be fine with some airflow and low air temps. The only time I run into heat problems with my lights is in the middle of summer, with air temps between -10 and -20C, I don't usually have too many problems!
    Hbflex is setup for temp cutoff - but I also have my low power setting at about 750mah, which does get the wattage numbers better than 1"/watt.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Hbflex is setup for temp cutoff - but I also have my low power setting at about 750mah, which does get the wattage numbers better than 1"/watt.
    With the H6Flex max set to 2800mah does any one know what will be the levels:

    L1?
    L2?
    L3?
    L4?
    L5 2800mah

    cheers

  22. #22
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    I believe that George (from TaskLED) has stated that each level decreases ~50% from the previous level, that each level is not a preset value.

    edit: found his post: Flex power levels

    So L5 = 2800
    L4 = 1400
    L3 = 700
    L2 = 350
    L1 = the lowest the driver can stably provide ~50ma

  23. #23
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    Well nevermind - George provides tables for the H6flex in the technical papers:

    H6Flex Driver Technical Information
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Light (in over my head)-tableh6flex.jpg  


  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    I believe that George (from TaskLED) has stated that each level decreases ~50% from the previous level, that each level is not a preset value.

    edit: found his post: Flex power levels

    So L5 = 2800
    L4 = 1400
    L3 = 700
    L2 = 350
    L1 = the lowest the driver can stably provide ~50ma
    Perfect thank you . With the housing not having quite enough surface area (2/3's) I'm going to have to choose carfully in order to have enough light for constant use, max for quick downhills and a good low level for cooling it all down on the fire roads.

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    then I'd use L2 or 3 for fire roads, and 4 & 5 as your low and high. Put the driver in threemode or trimode.

    Trimode allows each click to cycle through all 3 levels. In threemode the momentary click toggles between the 2 brightest levels, while a long press puts it into the low mode.

    I like Threemode, cause in the woods I might cycle thru the high and medium levels based on the immediate trail ahead, but I leave low at the 50ma level for when I'm stopped or needing to work on my bike, etc. So I don't need to toggle to that level while I'm riding.

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