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  1. #1
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    My Triple Seoul - With three beam selector.

    G'day all,

    Firstly thanks to everyone on this forum who have helped and inspired my Triple Seoul. Without your inovation, time and patience we would all be buying lights off the shelf !

    It's not something I thought I would be able to make myself and it's not something I feel like doing again in a hurry but the result are so far worth the effort.

    My light based on Allens (achesalot) design with a couple of changes.

    The housing is made from 20mm aluminium tubing and an old Marwi 12watt quickrelease. All the other bits and pieces including mini internal heatsinks were from a local electronics store (Jaycar Electronics Australia).

    The lenses are two 15 degree and one 10.4 degree Carclo lenses modified to fit in an end cap.

    Light is running a Buckpuck 3023 @ 1000mA.

    This light has a three position dim control running off a 3023 Buckpuck. So effectively I have full power, low beam and a bike work light. I've done the dim control running two 5k trimpots on an "on-none-on" mini toggle.

    Here's a couple of pics of my design:


    Mounted:


    Mounted:


    Mounted:


    [SIZE="5"]Beamshots:[/SIZE]

    Beamshot reference - No lights on.


    Beamshot Luxeon 3watt flashlight.


    Beamshot Marwi 12watt Halogen.


    Beamshot Triple Seoul - Bike working light (For flat tires etc)


    Beamshot Triple Seoul - Low beam (Approximately 50% full power)


    Beamshot Triple Seoul - Full beam


    Beamshot Triple Seoul - Full beam - Distances
    Last edited by Tony_J_Ross; 05-28-2007 at 07:02 AM.

  2. #2
    Spanish biker
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    Wowwwwwww, very nice light and excellent work!!!!!!!!

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  3. #3
    My Rusty Knee
    Reputation: Stuart B's Avatar
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    Excellent A+

    Any chance of a pic from the front?

    This needs to be added to Lowriders database thread

    Its great seeing so many high quality DIY lights on here now.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  4. #4
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    Very nice! Good job. What is the run time on high?

  5. #5
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    Shot from the front:



    Note: The alignment of this light isn't perfect because I rushed it a little bit on this prototype.

    I'm not sure on run times yet since I only finished the light about 1 hour before I posted my thread here.

    Hopefully it should be around 3 hours on high using the Li-ion 14.8v battery I have.

    Doing those beam shots really has convinced me all the effort is worth it. The light doesn't seem that bright until you get a comparision between other lights. It's just about impossible to turn one light on then another and compare it mentally.

    Even turning from the work light mode to high beam you can feel and see your eyes taking a second or two to adjust.

    Fun fun fun !

    Tony

  6. #6
    My Rusty Knee
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    looks good from the front too.

    yeah beam shots definitley show the difference. it's hard to make comparisons sometimes without doing them or having 2 setups to switch back and forth.

    what amp hour battery are you using?

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  7. #7
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    14.8V 4400 mAh Li-ion from AllBattery in the USA.

    I got two chargers and two batteries to cover any needs in the future. ie. Another light.

    Tony

  8. #8
    My Rusty Knee
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony_J_Ross
    14.8V 4400 mAh Li-ion from AllBattery in the USA.

    I got two chargers and two batteries to cover any needs in the future. ie. Another light.

    Tony
    You should get way more than 3 hours per battery then...more like 6

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  9. #9
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    Looks nice... Good job!

    How is the LED secured to the housing?

  10. #10
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    Yes, nice job! I wouldn't say it was based on my design very much. It looks like you did your own thing. I'm with P97z, "How did you secure the led inside the housing and where did you stick the Buckpuck?

    Great beamshots. Thanks for sharing.
    - Allen

  11. #11
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    The LED's are secured to the housing via a modified heatsink. I used thermal tape to secure them simply because I didn't want to wait for some Thermal Epoxy.

    The heatsink has such a fine tolerance once modified that it needed to be pushed in via a flat bladed screw driver. It can be removed but it isn't going to move by itself in the housing. Also its in constant contact with the tube so it dissipates heat even more.

    The Buckpuck was filed down on each edge to get it to fit freely into the housing. Without filling it, it would have been too hard to get all the wires past it.





    Then wedged into the Aluminium tubing.



    Tony

  12. #12
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    Just Curious? How did you cut the heatsink to fit the tubing? I was going to cut disks of aluminum to fit my 22mm tubing ID as heat sink but a 7/8 hole saw would require a fairly large pilot hole.

  13. #13
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    I just used Tin Snips and did the following:



    <----Tin Snips

    Tony

  14. #14
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    Did you just drill out the end caps to fit on the optics end?

  15. #15
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    what heat sink did you start with? 1" X 1"? Or did you cut down some PC heat sinks?

  16. #16
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    The heatsinks are 21x21mm.

    Here's the link to the heatsinks I used:

    http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...Max=&SUBCATID=

    The End caps were drilled then filled a little bit. It's hard to drill plastic without a drill press because you go off center and have to try again. This whole project would have been a piece of cake with a drill press.

  17. #17
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    Great job Tony
    Sorry that i don't understand how you have wired it.
    Have you got separate 2 level dimming for each light? I see you have a toggle each for the outside ones.
    Does the middle one go on when you switch one of the others on?
    Did you think about getting a bFlex?

    Cheers
    Dom

  18. #18
    My Rusty Knee
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    Quote Originally Posted by poobardog
    Great job Tony
    Sorry that i don't understand how you have wired it.
    Have you got separate 2 level dimming for each light? I see you have a toggle each for the outside ones.
    Does the middle one go on when you switch one of the others on?
    Did you think about getting a bFlex?

    Cheers
    Dom
    I think 1 toggle is an on off, and the other is a 3 position and selects 2 different resiatances (preset by pots) or open. Another vote for the bflex/nflex if you were to change controllers. Especially as they have low voltage warnning ...handy for Lithium bats. Hopefully the bats you have are protected though....but that means they will shut off all together without warning.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart B
    I think 1 toggle is an on off, and the other is a 3 position and selects 2 different resiatances (preset by pots) or open.

    Stu

    Yep that's 100% right Stu !

    I was going to get a bFlex or nFlex but the physical dimensions were a little off for this project. Also I thought they were a little too complicated for my walnut sized brain to program etc.

    Lot's of single button pressing seemed like a slower way of getting the output I would want, so I went with a pot to dim the light. When that idea was put into practice I thought that I only really wanted full power and low power so turning a knob was a waste of time.

    When your riding you don't want to be twisting an output knob because a simple tap on it could make it go too high or too low.

    When I tried it with a switch system it seemed logical to go the three position system as I had read that it would be cool to have a "Bike fix low mode", so that's what I've done on mine.

    Left switch is on off.

    Right switch is, up for bike fix mode ,middle for full power and down for low output mode.

    I think the next model I make will have a Flex system just to challenge my thinking.

    Tony

  20. #20
    Gone riding
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    Great job Tony!

    It’s a good feeling when all the hard work pays off isn’t it!

    And I notice you’re already talking about “the next” light, it’s great to see, we’ve got another sucker addicted!

    Cheers, Dave.

  21. #21
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    where did you get your optics?

    Hi Tony,
    Where did you get the optics you used in this light? I'm trawling around Cutter.com.au and it's next to impossible to find what I want. I'm building a very similar setup to yours here so if you've already done the hard work...
    Cheers,
    Dylan

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsut4392
    Hi Tony,
    Where did you get the optics you used in this light? I'm trawling around Cutter.com.au and it's next to impossible to find what I want. I'm building a very similar setup to yours here so if you've already done the hard work...
    Cheers,
    Dylan
    One of these:

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut688


    And, two of these:

    http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut689


    They seem to change the description of the degree angle of the lenses, because when I bought my last set they were labled differently ?

    Tony

  23. #23
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    Thanks - so there's no problem using these with Seoul P4ss rather than Crees then?
    Dylan

  24. #24
    Gone riding
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    The Seoulís and Crees have a number of substantial differences in their packaging and their beam width. The standard 20mm range of optics for Lumiled Luxeon emitters work really well with the Seoul P4 emitters. Three narrow optics, or two narrow optics and a medium optic work well for me.

    The part numbers are 10003 Narrow Beam, 10003/15 Medium Beam and 10003/25 Wide Beam. Actual Beam widths will depend on the exact emitter being used rather than the optic.

    They do have a web store here, although I have never used it myself.

    Dave.

  25. #25
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    Thanks Dave,
    I'm waiting to hear back from Cutter.com.au, I'll ask them directly about the part numbers you quote once a human replies to my enquiry.
    In the mean time I ordered a few mystery lenses and reflectors from dealextreme.com as well, at only about AU$18 delivered for 5 plastic optics, 4 Alloy Cree reflectors, 10 rubber switch covers and 10 glass lenses even if they mostly go in the bin I haven't wasted all that much. If any of them work out well I'll be sure to post in the forums.

    I'll give the carclo web store a miss this time:

    "Items can only be ordered in the packing quantities given for each item. i.e. a quantity of 1 will be a box or tray of the number of units in that box or tray (a quantity of 3 multiplied by 50 units equals 150 individual units). "
    Cheers,
    Dylan

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