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  1. #1
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    My new design is finished

    After my previous 2 projects i've wanted to build a whole new design. So I bought the Cree XR-E MR11 Kit at cutter and started to build the housing. Today my worh is finished and the result you can see here. the light is made from aluminum and carbonfibre, has a weight of 180 grams and the lightoutput is
    theoreticaly i have now a lightoutput of + 950 lumen.
    Winterevenings are gonna be fun
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  2. #2
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    Did you do the machining yourself? Looks like a solid design.

    BM
    "I've come to believe that common sense is not that common" - Matt Timmerman

  3. #3
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    Wow! Looks awesome!

    If you have any more pics of the lamp during assembly and while operating (outside of course) I would like to see them. I saw the kit on Cutter, it's expensive but complete!

  4. #4
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    Very nice work Gilbo!

    You’ve got quite the collection of lights now! I look forward to some beam shots and maybe a few database entries of your lights.

    I’d be surprised to see a luminous flux quite that high, but regardless a triple Q5 setup will provide a lot of light!


    Billabang - I hope Gilbo doesn’t mind, but a gallery of his current and previous projects can be found here.

    Cheers, Dave.

  5. #5
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    That's bloody gorgeous. I'm green with envy. Do you do the machining at home, at work, or do you hire out? And is weight an issue at all? It looks fairly thick-walled.

  6. #6
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    Wowwwww. very, very nice work!!!!

    Could you put beamshots, please.

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

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  7. #7
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    Thanks for the comment, after all thats what I do it for
    The housing and support is made by me exept the carbon fibre helmet plate, this is made by a friend who does scale model building.
    I have machined the light at my work, after hours offcourse!!
    the light has a weight of 120 grams the support 55grams;
    some more pictures you can see here http://gilbertosphotos.fotopic.net/c1368062.html

    I have made a few beamshots so you can see this light really kicks ass.
    the tree is still at 10 meters
    first picture is of my new headlight in 280 mAh mode
    second is with the light full power @ 1005 mAh
    third picture is former my 2 cree headlight
    do you see a difference?
    " width="549">
    " width="549">
    " width="549">

  8. #8
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    Just a little, thanks for the beam shots!

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the leg up

    I posted your picture links on our site as the design is shmick and the beam shots kick a....

    Cheers
    Mark
    Cutter Electronics

  10. #10
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    Welcome to MTBR Mark!

    Yep this is one sweet light, he's done a great job!

    Dave.

  11. #11
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    Man, that`s just the type of thing that will get me to work on my own DIY light!

    Hey Gilbo, I may need to pester you for some dimensions on that case....that is just plain wicked!
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

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  12. #12
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    That light looks beautiful Gilbo... the best looking DIY I've ever seen. Pure artistry. Keep it up!

  13. #13
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    Smick light Gilbo
    We just built lights with the same kit from Cutter, we’ve also built lights using 2 x Ledil Optics 6° RS with Cree XR-E Q4. First impressions are that the latter is better and much the same to build with less power requirements. 3 x XR-E Q5 @ 1000ma = 14 odd volts 2 x XR-E Q5 @ 1000ma = 9 odd volts. What’s your opinion????

  14. #14
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    Gilbo, do you have any pictures of the back of the light -- the switch, cable, etc.?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by James@GearReview
    Gilbo, do you have any pictures of the back of the light -- the switch, cable, etc.?
    Many thanks for the reply's guys, i'm on a natural high
    on the back you see the female powerconnector bought at DEVPEIN in Germany, very fine connectors with gold plated contacts
    the cable is nothing special, I use leftovers from work, cable's from for example proximity switches which have been cut off.
    the two switches are for on/off and dim (280 mAh) and full power (1005mAh)
    the other picture is from the male and female connectors
    @ sprights, I use a Fatman so I use a double sixpack of AA battery's 2300 mAh (makes 4600mAh) When I run it at full power it consumes 1600mAh, so the battery life will be less than tree hours, on the dim mode battery life is 12 hours.
    When I use the 9.6 volt battery of my former light (2cree with buckpuck) the battery will hold out at full power for more than 5 hours. ( see battery on lower picture)

    " width="549">
    " width="549">
    " width="549">

  16. #16
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    Very nice light. Great work.

    Excellent idea with the switching but I can't figure out how to get it to work that way.

    I was wondering how do you connect the switch for dim (280 mAh) and full power (1005mAh) to the Fatman?

    Thanks for all the info!

    J

  17. #17
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    The Fatman can be used with an external potentiometer to provide dimming.

    Alternatively you can just place resistors between the pot pins on the board to set the desired drive current.

    Technical information for the Fatman is available here.

    Dave.

  18. #18
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    very nice.
    Any chance you could post a part list and some drawings for others who would like to give it a go?

    Also I have 3 questions

    1.) Did you make this inner housing yourself?
    2.) What type of bolt is that?
    3.) Did you consider making the unit waterproof by using gaskets and waterproof switches?
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  19. #19
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    after thinking about it some more... for question 1... Is that the heat sink?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheers!
    very nice.
    Any chance you could post a part list and some drawings for others who would like to give it a go?

    Also I have 3 questions

    1.) Did you make this inner housing yourself?
    2.) What type of bolt is that?
    3.) Did you consider making the unit waterproof by using gaskets and waterproof switches?
    answers:
    1 yes, the whole housing is made by myself, also the inside.
    2 I used M6 allen bolts with sunken heads.
    3 The only place water can get in is the front since the switches are waterproof covered, When I'm satisfied with the light I will seal off the lens with the housing with a silicone sealant, that should be enough.
    4 that is the heatsink, the leds are glued on with arctic silver, on the picture you can't see it but it is made hollow to reduce weight but I still have lot of material to transport the heat to the outside of the housing. There is also a thin layer of thermal paste between the heatsink and the housing for maximum thermal management.
    The dimensions of the light are dia. 42mm lenght 58mm. I will try to make a drawing to put on the web.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Low_Rider
    The Fatman can be used with an external potentiometer to provide dimming.

    Alternatively you can just place resistors between the pot pins on the board to set the desired drive current.

    Technical information for the Fatman is available here.

    Dave.
    I am not to familiar in the electronic field.
    I understand that I can use a potentiometer; I was just wondering how to wire up the Fatman with a switch and resistor to get to perform in the same way as Gilbo's light.

    Thanks,

    j

  22. #22
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    Some fast drawing, I don't have time to write an explanation at the moment, but I think is quite clear:

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheers!
    after thinking about it some more... for question 1... Is that the heat sink?
    Yes, it is.

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
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  24. #24
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    Does anyone know of any distributors for DEVPEIN that have the products in english? My German is not existent.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheers!
    Does anyone know of any distributors for DEVPEIN that have the products in english? My German is not existent.
    What would you like to order? The connector set as seen on my picture is the 260096 Set LS-3 Buchse + Stecker.
    otherwise maybe you can translate the site with Babelfish?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gilbo
    What would you like to order? The connector set as seen on my picture is the 260096 Set LS-3 Buchse + Stecker.
    otherwise maybe you can translate the site with Babelfish?
    The switches!

  27. #27
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    (self-edit)

  28. #28
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    Nice work on the lamp body! Very clean!!

    Do you have any pictures of the underside of that carbon piece? Was that custom made with close fitting bits to fit into your helmet?

  29. #29
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    I'm curious how you got the heat sink to secure into the housing. How long are the bolts that hold the faceplate on? Do they run the entire length of the housing to the back where there are holes tapped?

  30. #30
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    @cheers, the switches I have bought at a local electronicsstore, they are nothing special. it's a normal micro on/off switch with a separate rubber cover sealed with a o ring.
    The bolts that mount the front plate are stainless M2X16mm and the heatsink is just fitted in the housing with a tolerance of 0.05/100 MM it's in fact the lens wich holds everything in place. As seen on the picture below, there is a small groove turned inside the housing, this is where the Khatod lens fits in, the lens is secured in the heatsink and the front cover ring is a little smaller in diameter so everything is secured with the front cover ring." width="549">

  31. #31
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    [QUOTE=super-fast]Some fast drawing, I don't have time to write an explanation at the moment, but I think is quite clear:

    Thanks Super-fast for for the fast drawing, its almost clear now.
    Just another question , why use 2 resistors if one setting is full power and
    the other low power?

    Cheers,

    J

  32. #32
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    The Fatman electronics board uses resistance across POT and POT (GND) to dim the lights (lower voltage). So you have to set resistances to select hi or low beam


    LED Current

    Resistance
    1000 mA
    13.50K

    800 mA
    10.84K

    750 mA
    10.10K

    700 mA
    9.37K

    650 mA
    8.70K

    400 mA
    5.22K

    300 mA
    3.82K

    http://www.taskled.com/techfatman.html

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeep
    Thanks Super-fast for for the fast drawing, its almost clear now.
    Just another question , why use 2 resistors if one setting is full power and
    the other low power?

    Cheers,

    J
    The schematic with the Fatman driver would also work with one resistor, because there is the onboard potmeter. When this pot is adjusted for the low-power mode you can delete that resistor and there is only need for one resistor for high power mode. The resistor works completely different then when you wire a resistor in series with a Led, because in that case a bigger resistor limits the current more, but that isn't the case here. The schematic on the Fatman driver is far more complicated then that, but you don't have to understand that to work with it.

  34. #34
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    that's how I wired my light, trimpot for max output and 1 resistor over the pot/potgnd for dim mode

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheers!
    very nice.
    Any chance you could post a part list and some drawings for others who would like to give it a go?

    Seconded. Prices of stuff would be great as well. Nice light.
    NKAWTG

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudmojo
    Nice work on the lamp body! Very clean!!

    Do you have any pictures of the underside of that carbon piece? Was that custom made with close fitting bits to fit into your helmet?
    on the bottom of the carbon plate there is a piece of celfoam rubber (selfadhesive)
    I mount the light with 4 tie wraps to my helmet. it is solid as a rock

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finski
    Seconded. Prices of stuff would be great as well. Nice light.
    for the parts list;
    1 Cree XR-E MR11 Kit (cutter) € 62
    1 set of connectors DEV PEIN € 8
    5 SS bolts M2 X16 local hardware store € 11!! ( I think they are made under a microscope)
    The housing € 0.0
    the carbonplate € 0.0 (thanks Rudy )
    2 Switches, shrinktube, resistance and connector for battery +/- € 15
    3 4packs AA NimH battery's €12 ( bought at ALDI (dont know iff it is known outside europe?)
    12 Belgian beers ( Leffe dark)
    for the rest 1% inspiration and 99% transpiration (free)
    total: about 150 USD or 178 AUD

    I am busy to make a drawing but am not familiar with the cadprogram and so it could take a little time to get it right.

  38. #38
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    Very nice Gilbert.
    Any news on the runtime of your AA batteries yet?
    I once used GP 2300mAh, but at 500mA I didn't get good runtime, as capacity decreases as current increases.
    You use 2 sets in parallel (always thought that was a no no with Nimh) but your setup draws 1600mA.
    Do you come close to 4600mAh with your pack ?
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gilbo
    After my previous 2 projects i've wanted to build a whole new design. So I bought the Cree XR-E MR11 Kit at cutter and started to build the housing. Today my worh is finished and the result you can see here. the light is made from aluminum and carbonfibre, has a weight of 180 grams and the lightoutput is
    theoreticaly i have now a lightoutput of + 950 lumen.
    Winterevenings are gonna be fun
    HOLY CRAP!! That is some of the best light pornography I've seen. Somehow the 280mA picture is not showing. Dead link? Oh man... any plans on making kits of the housing so others can piece together? Man I can't control my bodily fluids when I check this out. This is one sexy light!!

    Zero_Enigma

  40. #40
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    I just got my MR11 kit, and noticed there is no +/- marked on the PCB- does it even matter for wiring it up?

  41. #41
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    Yes, it does matter!!!!! on the the leds you will see a very tiny mark on the + side, just follow the line to the connection point on the pcb.

  42. #42
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    You really should make/sell these things. It looks so nice, better than most if not all of the standard production models..
    The Who - Glittering Girl
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  43. #43
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    My Cutter kit finally arrived today all the way from Australia to Canada.

    Fired up the Solidworks and made some drawings. Going to start cutting metal soon. I swung by a metal supplier and picked up some 7075 off cuts for cheap.

    For connector I'm going with Binder USA (german connectors). It's about the only small connector that is IP68 and has a OD of 16 mm (http://www.binder-usa.com/subminiatu...oup=21&abzz=0#)



    It's pretty much a blatant copy of Gilbo... But it's for my own personal consumption. Problem is finding some lathe time.
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  44. #44
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    When the light will be made as good as the drawing
    very nice!!

  45. #45
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    Very nice work!
    Gilbo

    Can you post detail dimensions of your case?
    I want to make light as your design.
    I need detail dimensions...outside diameter, inside diameter, length...ect.

    If you post detail dimensions and cross section view....it will be very much helpful to me.
    Thank you, Gilbo.

  46. #46
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    Narajiang,

    All the details are in this thread. Gilbo posted his light is 44 mm OD x 58 mm Length. The Khatod lens information can be found on Khathod's website. It is 34 mm OD. The mounting depth is (can't remember off top of head, it's on the product detail spec you can download off of kathod). The only dimension I did not have to make the CAD drawing was the thickness of the aluminum Cutter electronics mounted the LED lights to. The thickness if you are interested is 1/8" thick.

  47. #47
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    You might find this useful. Dom posted this for me on a thread on CPF answering my question asking the overall depth of the Khatod Optic/Cree LED unit


  48. #48
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    Definitely look at the spec sheet

    Quote Originally Posted by Cheers!
    Narajiang,

    All the details are in this thread. Gilbo posted his light is 44 mm OD x 58 mm Length. The Khatod lens information can be found on Khathod's website. It is 34 mm OD. The mounting depth is (can't remember off top of head, it's on the product detail spec you can download off of kathod). The only dimension I did not have to make the CAD drawing was the thickness of the aluminum Cutter electronics mounted the LED lights to. The thickness if you are interested is 1/8" thick.
    http://www.khatod.com/pdf/pl605_xlamp.pdf

    Just because I happen to be looking at that sheet in another window I placed the link to it above. And to really nit-pick, it looks like Khatod lists the OD as 35mm, but check the sheet for all the detailed specs to be sure.
    Wrecker of fine things

  49. #49
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    You are correct. The lens is 35 mm in Diameter. I was thinking of something else.

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    Cheers

    Are you willing to share your solid works model?

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richrider
    Are you willing to share your solid works model?
    What do you exactly mean? (i dont understand the question, english is not my first language)

  52. #52
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    CAD model

    The post from Cheers! claims he has a SolidWorks CAD model. I am interested in his cad model if he would share it. I have a CAD model that is just about done, I just like to see what others have done, and check my dimensions to make sure everything will fit, as I have not received my kit from Cutter yet.

  53. #53
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    Ok you guys. I haven't even gotten the housing for my dual halogen light setup machined yet (having issues with toolpaths on the CNC) and now I'm starting something similar to Gilbo's. Ordered the kit a short while ago (thanks Cutter!) and will be machining parts as soon as it arrives. I even have a piece of 2" dia. aluminum round stock I found in the scrap bin!

  54. #54
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    I made the CAD model myself using the dimensions Gilbo stated (diameter, length of housing) etc. The rest was figured out by going to Khatod to look at the lens dimensions. Then to taskled to determine the PCD board's OD and max thickness. There isn't a single dimension you can not figure out on your own.

    It looks like others are closer done that me. I'm still having trouble finding access to a lathe.

  55. #55
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    Beautiful unit!

    Nice work!

  56. #56
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    Ok guys,

    I too am building a tri-cree light ala Gilbo.

    But my problems are not with the machining but with the wire up.

    I've read just about every tread on here with tech info but I just wanted to check I had all my things in order before I wreck the driver or leds...



    This Is what I figured out so far. But the value of R1 and R2 are a mistery... I think they should be R1 = 13.5K (full power 1000mA) and R2 = 3.82K (saving 300mA) and I have no idea how to wire it up... Does anyone have a pic of a soldered internal driver, switches and power input? How the hell do you keep everything from shorting out? Crimpsleeve or what?

    Is switch 2 in the right place or doesn't it play a role whether it is between the + or - side?

    I didn't draw the leds because that is the one obvios thing.

    Thanks in advance for the input!

    Greetz
    Bettes

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    The switches are both at the right place. For soldering I always try to strip off as less insulation as possible, then put a bit of solder on the wire and put it the hole. To prevent shorts you could put a bit of tape on the bottomside of the driver.
    Your resistor values are correct when you de-solder de onboard potentiometer, when you don't want to do that you have to recalculate the 2 values. What is the resistance from the onboard potentiometer? Then I can calculate the two values for you.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by super-fast
    The switches are both at the right place. For soldering I always try to strip off as less insulation as possible, then put a bit of solder on the wire and put it the hole. To prevent shorts you could put a bit of tape on the bottomside of the driver.
    Ok, that is good news. One less question. But the resistors are made for soldering on to a board, not just in open air between a switch and the driver. Do I cover them completely in a thermal sleeve? Or is this bad for the heat from the resistor?

    Quote Originally Posted by super-fast
    Your resistor values are correct when you de-solder de onboard potentiometer, when you don't want to do that you have to recalculate the 2 values. What is the resistance from the onboard potentiometer? Then I can calculate the two values for you.
    You got me there... I haven't got a clue. I know it's tuneable but I don't know the least value I can set. (I haven't got my set in yet so I can't measure it. Maybe the other users can chime in?!
    "The minimum current output is a nominal 30mA (fixed resistor in series with the trimpot)." I got this from the technical sheet on the taskled site, maybe you know what to do with it... Ohms-law or something...

    Greetz
    Bettes

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    Quote Originally Posted by bettes
    Ok, that is good news. One less question. But the resistors are made for soldering on to a board, not just in open air between a switch and the driver. Do I cover them completely in a thermal sleeve? Or is this bad for the heat from the resistor?
    Those resistors only have a tiny current flowing through them, so won't be generating any heat - feel free to cover them in whatever you want to to insulate them.

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    My Fatman drivers were delivered with the trimpot 9,37k Ohm (700 mA), when you'd want to deliver 1A you will need to tune the trimpot to 13,5k Ohm. For the 1A option you'll leave the connection between Pot and Grond unconnected, for the 300 mA you'll connect a resistor of 5 kOhm. So one of the resistors can be deleted from your schematic and the rest stays the same.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by super-fast
    My Fatman drivers were delivered with the trimpot 9,37k Ohm (700 mA), when you'd want to deliver 1A you will need to tune the trimpot to 13,5k Ohm. For the 1A option you'll leave the connection between Pot and Grond unconnected, for the 300 mA you'll connect a resistor of 5 kOhm. So one of the resistors can be deleted from your schematic and the rest stays the same.
    Ok, so I measure between the pot and pot(gnd) with nothing connected and set it to 13,5k Ohm?! And hook up a 5Kohm between the swith and the pot. And I'm golden then.

    Super-fast, You need to know I now have been "enlightened" by two forum members... Gilbo for the case and you for the rest!

    greetz
    bettes

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    Yes that is right.
    I have the opposite problem. I have designed a housing I only need to find someone who can make it for me. Maxflex + 5 Rebels + Ledil MR11 medium I would like to add a nice CNCed housing that keeps it self a bit cool to that list.

  63. #63
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    How does this cutter kit compare to current hid's in relation to brightness, better or worse?

  64. #64
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    I have an old niteride digital classic light and was thinking about modifying it to use the LED setup that you have shown here, but I have a couple questions that you might be able to answer. One, is the heat such that requires a metal body or should the plastic body of the niterider be enough? I would think the LEDs would be cooler than the halogen bulbs, but I am not sure with the higher output LEDs. Two, do you think the digital driver would work for the LED setup assuming the voltages and currents are within the LEDs specifications?

  65. #65
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    ccerasers,
    I'm not sure on the first question, but on the second, I'm pretty sure the answer is no. The driver in the Niterider is different than the ones used for LEDs. The LED needs a constant current driver, and I don't think that the Niterider is set up that way. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure they're different things.

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    Niterider plastic housing traps too much heat

    For the guy who asked about the niterider housing: FWIW, I installed a Cree triple kit and heatsink, into a niterider 15w halogen housing. I knew heatsinking may be a problem but tried it anyway.

    outdoors, riding at near freezing temps, the light will run at 1000ma for about 20 mins before overheating. the bflex circuit board inside (within housing but as far from heatsink as possible, about 10mm distance, seperated by foam) is set to power down a notch when it senses 90 deg celcius, so its pretty hot in there.

    I have set the max amperage to 750ma and can run the light for hours at that setting with no overheating issues yet.

    If you have the digital classic, two up mr11 niterider model, you try and run some metal heatsinking material out the 2nd hole of the housing, but you wouldnt be water proof.

    I am going to build some metal "fins" that I can drill into the housing and through the existing heatsink, to pull some of the heat out of the housing.

  67. #67
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    You are frying your expensive LEDs.

  68. #68
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    Well I just finished my kit, slightly different to Gilbo, I put a 540 lumen Luxeon Rebel Star module in my existing Niteflux Photon shell. Still an awesome upgrade from the standard light, and I think my 540lumen would give Gilbo a run for his money.

    I do like Gilbo's machine work though, I might have a go on the lathe to make one too.

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