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Thread: My LED lights

  1. #1
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    My LED lights

    I got jealous whatching everybody else post thier lights so I am jumping on the band wagon

    Here you go
    First is home made battery pack and fork mounted quad SSC p4 driven at 800mah by a fatman driver. Battery is 10 volts and around 5200MaH. I haven't run it down yet and have been out for 3 hours at a time. It is constructed out of a drain test plug, flourescent light protector tube, and a vinyl cap. Light is Acheselot's design with some heat modifications for the 4 lights. Light is mounted to the fork with a drilled and tapped hole and a simple thumb screw.
    The last picture is the dimmer control. I can dim the lights without taking my hands off the bars. It is a simple linear pot with shrink wrap for water proofing and a velcro wrap around the bars. Works great.

    Yeah Achesalot! Thanks for the new addiction.
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    Last edited by zen bicycle; 08-31-2007 at 10:06 AM.

  2. #2
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    Helmet mount. I mounted the LEDs to a cpu processor I cut down, then press fit them in with plexi and an O ring from the hardware store. Works Pretty good, but they tend to shift when you are screwing them down(The O rings). The knob on the left is for dimming control. I thought it would be too big originaly, but it turns out it works great with full finger gloves on. The bottom picture is of the fork mounted light and you can see the CPU heat sink along with another sink that the Fatman driver is mounted to.
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    Last edited by zen bicycle; 08-30-2007 at 09:43 PM.

  3. #3
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    Beam Shots
    1. Bar low
    2. Helmet only
    3. Bar only
    4. Both full on

    Wall is at least 25 yards away, maybe more. Light is actually a little brighter than this shows, I just didn't want to mess around with the camera that much. I know that it is brighter than a 13 watt HID I was riding with the other night. Pure guestimate on Lumens is around 1000-1200 depending on efficiencies. Version 2 coming this fall

    Enjoy
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    what LED is that ? homebrew Cree?

  5. #5
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    I was still editing when you asked it is SSC p4 home brew based on Achesalots initial design.

    Total of 6 LED's

  6. #6
    Spanish biker
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    Nice light, congratulations!!!

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  7. #7
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    thanks for the kind words MSXTR

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    That is insanely bright

    Wow! I am seriously considering buying a Blaast light with 3 P4s.. 6 looks like you can light up a football field! I might give in a build a dual fork mount P4 light one day... for shadow.

  9. #9
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    10 Volts?

    Quote Originally Posted by zen bicycle
    I got jealous whatching everybody else post thier lights so I am jumping on the band wagon

    Here you go
    First is home made battery pack and fork mounted quad SSC p4 driven at 800mah by a fatman driver. Battery is 10 volts and around 5200MaH. I haven't run it down yet and have been out for 3 hours at a time. It is constructed out of a drain test plug, flourescent light protector tube, and a vinyl cap. Light is Acheselot's design with some heat modifications for the 4 lights. Light is mounted to the fork with a drilled and tapped hole and a simple thumb screw.
    The last picture is the dimmer control. I can dim the lights without taking my hands off the bars. It is a simple linear pot with shrink wrap for water proofing and a velcro wrap around the bars. Works great.

    Yeah Achesalot! Thanks for the new addiction.

    Good job! But I have some questions. Is the fatman driver a booster or a buck? I'm planning on building a 4 x cree lamp (14.8V forward) and using a 14.8V lithium pack. I have already purchased a 1000 mA Buck-Puck driver. I am wondering whether I should purchase an 18V lithium pack instead of 14.8V since the Buck-Puck does not boost.

  10. #10
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    the fatman is a boost driver from taskled that can run up to 18 volts from a maximum of 12 volt input. With 4 Seoul Leds the forward voltage at 1000mah is +- 14.4 volts. You want to make sure that your battery pack at maximum discharge has above 14.4 volts to maintain functionality.

    Usually Li- Ion cells range between 3 volts at lowest charge to around 3.8 to 4 at initial charge off the top of my head. So you would be at 12 volts on the lowest charge which would be below the forward voltage. The normal from what I gather is 16-18V for 4 lights and 14v for 3 lights using a buck driver.

    HTH

  11. #11
    GMF
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    I'm curious about your fork mount and how you perceive the light on the trail. Do you find it strange to have the light bouncing up and down relative to you as the fork tracks to the terrain?


    I dig the install, though. Nice work!

    -Damon

  12. #12
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    It is actually on the fork stanchion?? (I think taht is what you call it) which is stable relative to the bike frame. I like it in combination with the helmet as it gives me great depth perception from that angle. I also like it there as it is absolutely centered on the bike as opposed to on the handlebar, which is usually offset if only slightly. The position makes it almost impossible to bash the light in a normal fall as the handlbars and wheel get in the way first. You would have to catch the corner of a rock or hit a tree sideways to get at the light

    Thanks

  13. #13
    GMF
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    Quote Originally Posted by zen bicycle
    It is actually on the fork stanchion?? (I think taht is what you call it) which is stable relative to the bike frame.
    It is on the fork lowers - the part NOT stable relative to the bike frame. It moves with the wheel, not with the rider/frame (like a bar mount would). This is different than the vast majority of setups, so i was wondering if you noticed the light bouncing up and down as your moved along the trail, and if you did, if it bothered you at all.

    Thanks

  14. #14
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    Sorry you're right I was in a hurry typing that up. I was trying to say that it is stationary relative to the bike moving up and down on the shock. I like it because it is always the same distance from the ground assuming the front tire is on the ground. It turned out to be a very rigid mount, so it doesn't shake or move around at all. SO I guess I don't notice it bouncing up and down at all and with LED's who cares if they go through a beating.
    Last edited by zen bicycle; 09-07-2007 at 11:17 PM.

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