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  1. #1
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    my LED light build (6 SSC P4's). Beam shots added.

    Ok i am about to start on my led light build. This will be my first attempt so hopefully everything will work out. Here is what I bought already but still waiting for the LED's to arrive from hong kong via sea turtles. It says 10-13 days for shipping. blah.

    10x seoul P4 Ubin LED's on stars
    2x 1000mah buckpcuks
    1x b-flex controller
    4x 20mm optics, some wide and some spot
    2x 50mm optics one wide and one spot. each holds 3 leds
    2x old night sun halelogen lights. they are dual setups and hoping to gut and use as a housing.
    2x 14.8 li-ion all-battery batteries
    1x charger
    12" of 2" solid round stock aluminium
    12" of 1" round tube aluminium
    1x kill switch off of my honda CR250 to use as a switch for the bflex
    1x artic silver epoxy
    2x frame bags to hold the battries

    ok here's the plan but I need your guys expert opinions as this is my first build and right now i am just trying to get all my materials so i can start on it.

    My first plan is to take my night sun housing and put the 50mm optics in their at 3 led's on each side to give me a total of 6 led with hopefully over 1000 lumens. I want to run the bflex controller at 1000mah and I can dim it also. The night sun housing is alum and the 2" round stock I bought will be made into a head sink that the leds will attach too and hopefully disperse heat to the outer housing.

    plan b is to build a 4 led setup kinda like achesalot setup. With 1" round tube (since the 20mm optics i bought were round) and a 1000mah buckpuck. I still may do this in addition to the 6 led light if the 6 led light works as well as i hope it does.

    couple of questions for you experts:

    how big do you think i need to make the heat sink inside for the 3 led's? I am not sure how much room i have to work with but what would be a good rule? Or just make it as big as possible?

    What size wire's do you guys use? And do you soder everything? Does your wires or soder ever break because of the bouncing? I did some small led's long time ago and i used too small of wires and they eventually broke.

    How senstive to water is everything? Do I have to be extra careful to make everything water tight? What if i drill holes in the housing for better heat disipation?

    If i want to use a 1000mah buckpuck for the plan b lights on a 3 way switch how do i get it to dim. Can i just put a resistor in it or should i get a 350mah buck puck for the low setting?

    Is thier anything I left off my list that I will need? I have a good sodering iron, a drill press, grinder wheel, sander, 240v TIG and am debating weither to buy a lathe for this project. I'll have to see what I can come up with for the heat sink. So I think I have enough tools for the fabbing part.

    I'll start posting pics once I get everything in and start on the project. This is probably going to take me a while so i'll update this thread as I go along or have more questions.
    Last edited by brent878; 06-29-2007 at 10:44 AM. Reason: beam shots added

  2. #2
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    i just stumbled onto a bunch of the DIY lights, and so far most of this seems like its in chinese... can you keep your updates dumbed down for anyone else who might be considering the same builds. how much did you end up spending so far? where did you find most of your supplies? are there any links in here for building your own light for dummies?

    thanks
    1 hockey puck-$2
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  3. #3
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    ya I used this as a guide that achesalot made and it helped me alot. Then I asked alot of questions on this forum too before i started buying stuff to make sure I was kinda on the right track.

    http://myfwyc.org/bikeled/DIY_LED_Bi...ing_Guide.html

    I will post prices and websites later as i bought like double of everything so the cost for one light is unknown at this moment becuase i don't know exactly which direction i am going to go.

    this thread also has alot of useful info.

    Triple Seoul P4 LED Light

  4. #4
    Spanish biker
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    10 seoul P4?? Why so many leds??

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by msxtr
    10 seoul P4?? Why so many leds??

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    well 6 for the for the first light and i figured i would make one with 4 or just buy 2 more and make another one with 6 if the first one works out. When I go motorcycle riding i usually take my mtb bike lights and put them on my mini bikes and go for a night ride so having a extra set would be nice. That's the plan alteast, hehe.

  6. #6
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    Hi Brent -will be interesting to see your build
    More links than you can poke a stick at here
    http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=137823

    Cheers
    Dom

  7. #7
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    holy crap thanks poobardog. This should keep my busy at work I just love reading and learning stuff. Its so much better than work. Now if my LED's would only get here

  8. #8
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    well got my LED's in finally. Will take pics of everything tonight so you guys can get a visual of what i am working with. I think i am ready to start working on the project but have a few questions.

    Is it safe to run the led's on the stars only to test them and the controller or will it hurt it not having a proper heat sink?

    How thick should I make the alum heat sink inside of the housing? I know pics would help answer this question so you have a visual of what i am working with. My dad thinks it should be as thin as possible but i think it should be as thick as possible. I am going to epoxy the led stars directly to the heat sink inside of the housing and it will disperse the heat to the outer housing.

    What size wire should I be working with?

  9. #9
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    Hi Brent
    When i made my first LED light i also thought thin heatsink would be the go -removing the heat quicker to the outside of the housing.
    The experts convinced me that it also necessary to have a bit of thermal mass -so from an original 2mm wall behind the LEDs -it was boosted to 4mm.
    The whole alumiinium housing for 3 LEDs running series at 1amp weighs 120 -130 gram and is fine at dissipating the heat while there is air running over it -will only ever get warmish.
    If sitting still -you can barely touch it after 6mins.

    24 -20 AWG wire should be fine for the LEDs and driver - if you are using teflon coated -the thicker the better.For the bFlex -i think 20AWG is plenty. I use 24 for the LEDs.
    If powering up your stars -just keep a finger under them to check that the heat is not too much - the bflex powers up on low anyway -so should be good for awhile.

    Where's your pix?LOL
    Cheers
    Dom
    Last edited by poobardog; 06-20-2007 at 05:24 AM.

  10. #10
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    sorry for the late repsonse in pics. I am in the process of moving and couldn't find the usb cable to my camera.

    I have started disasembling the night suns and hopefully will have time friday to start on the heat sink. I am wondering if I should put the bflex inside or somehow put it outside or with the battery. Thier will be alot of wires going to the bflex so i will need to have some room if i put it inside.

    Thanks poobardog for the reply on the wire size. If i use too big of wire it would take up alot of space but i didn't want to chance using too small of wires also.

    Well on to my crappy pics (after i got them to the computer i relized i left the camera on iso 3200 ) :

    night sun:



    14.8v batteries:


    50mm lens (1 wide, 1 spot):



    20mm lens (2 spot, 1 semi wide, 1 wide):


    1000mah buckpucks:


    souel P4 ubin:


    artic silver:


    blex:



    Aluminium:

  11. #11
    Spanish biker
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    brent878 Hi, keep us informed to your progress with your light, please

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  12. #12
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    That heatsink in the last pic should do fine Brent LOL
    Be interesting to see your final result.
    Gonna get a lathe? Very handy thing.
    Cheers
    Dom

  13. #13
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    I am really considering a lathe but I don't think i can justify the funds right now just for this one project. I am not sure how much i would use the lathe becuase the one i am thinking about getting would be a small one becuase that is all i could afford. I am going to try to save the heat sink down by hand and if that turns out to be impossible or too much work then i might invest in one. You can't have enough cool tools right?

    I took apart the night sun last night and test fitted the 50mm optics and its going to be a tight squeeze. They fit ok but doesn't leave much room for the heat sink and bflex and wires. Maybe 1" total so i am debating how thick to make the heat sink.

    Also would it be bad to glue the bflex to the back of the heat sink? Would it get hot and mess up the bflex controller or short it out or anything of that sort. I was thinking if the bflex is floating around in the housing then it has more of a chance to get damaged.

  14. #14
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    I built a light with 3 Seoul P4's running at 1amp. Man it is bright!

    I can't imagine how 6 led's will be . You will probably burn the retinas out of all squirls that cross your path and leave scorch marks on all the trees along the way . I can't wait to see the beam shots once you have it finished.

    George at TaskLED has some suggestions for potting his boards in place, it's worth asking him what potting material to use. With that much power going through the b-flex you might want to mount it to a heat sink. I am partial to packing the compartment it is in with stuff to prevent it from bouncing around. That way when you need to repair or reconfigure you can.

  15. #15
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    The only important job for a "heatsink" inside a light housing is to transmit the heat to the housing body. The crucial thing here is actually the interface between the "heatsink" and the housing - how exactly were you planning on joining the two? You should be aware that whilst thermal epoxy conducts heat better than other adhesives it is still far, far worse than aluminium, so the thermal resistance from the LEDs to the housing (which is what the issue here is) will be dominated by any use of that - you need to get the layer as thin as possible. That will make far more difference than the size of your "heatsink".

    You'll notice I keep using quotes - that's because a "heatsink" inside a housing isn't doing the job a heatsink traditionally does, as it's not helping to dissipate the heat into the air. A better term would be "heat conductor". Any extra mass will only make a difference in transient conditions, which really isn't important - it's the steady state where you have issues.

  16. #16
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    ya I know what your saying chrism about the heat sink. I call it a heat sink as i didn't know what else to call it where people would understand what i am talking about.

    I plan to hopefully have a force friction fit between the "heat conductor" and the housing with maybe some CPU thermal grease to make it slide in better and conduct heat. I am going to see how close i can get it by hand if I need to buy or use one of my friends lathe if it doesn't work out.

    To test it i plan to mound the led's to the heat conductor outside of the housing and turn them on. Both to test everything before putting it in and to see how hot my heat conductor gets. Then put it all together and turn it on for the same amount of time and feel the housing. If it gets worm or just as hot i know its tranfsering the heat as planned. If it stays cool or doesn't heat up then back to the drawing board i go.

    And Jmitchell, that is a good idea to stuff the housing with something so things don't bounch around too much. What do you normally use? Something like packing peanuts or foam? I don't want to make it so i can't get anything out or apart incase something does go wrong and i need to take things apart to fix.

    I will send geaorge at taskLED an e-mail about the board and how hot that will get. I didn't even think about that needing a heat sink either.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by brent878
    sorry for the late repsonse in pics. I am in the process of moving and couldn't find the usb cable to my camera.

    I have started disasembling the night suns and hopefully will have time friday to start on the heat sink. I am wondering if I should put the bflex inside or somehow put it outside or with the battery. Thier will be alot of wires going to the bflex so i will need to have some room if i put it inside.

    Thanks poobardog for the reply on the wire size. If i use too big of wire it would take up alot of space but i didn't want to chance using too small of wires also.

    Well on to my crappy pics (after i got them to the computer i relized i left the camera on iso 3200 ) :
    Can you tell me why you plan to use both the bflex and the buckpuck? Don't they both do the same thing: maintain a constant current.

    Thanks

    Tim

  18. #18
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    Man. Sure is good to see all this light building going on! Wow, running more than 6, U-bin Seoul P4s is insane! Some folks must have extreme night blindness or ride really fast. Running two, Triple Seoul P4 (u-bin) LED lights is enough to make any HID rider very envious It's especially rewarding when folks come up asking, "what kind of light is that?" It's a great feeling... and you'll be very proud when you tell them that you built the light yourself.

  19. #19
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    Indeed - was out on an event recently and testing my triple Cree against a teammate with an HID, there really wasn't much in it (though the colour is noticeably different). Meanwhile whilst his battery was a huge lump attached to the frame, mine was small enough to mount to the stem, so the whole thing is now bar mount (adding to the overcrowding on the bars - I had L to R: bar end, grip, shifter, brake, rear lockout, battery, map board, stem, light, light remote, front lockout, shifter, brake, grip, bar end!)

    Of course that was my old one with P4 bins - my latest has 4 Q2 bins! Everybody wants one.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat
    Can you tell me why you plan to use both the bflex and the buckpuck? Don't they both do the same thing: maintain a constant current.

    Thanks

    Tim
    I bought the buckpucks first becuase i thought the fblex wouldn't handle 6 LED's and i thought that just high, low, off was good enough for me. Then i started reading about the bflex and liked the adjustibility of it and thought it would better for this application. I am still going to try and make the 4 led one with the buckpuck if this one goes right or make another 6 led one becuase i have another night sun housing.

    Last night i cought some sort of flew I am paying for it now but i am still going to try and make progress on the lights.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by achesalot
    Man. Sure is good to see all this light building going on! Wow, running more than 6, U-bin Seoul P4s is insane! Some folks must have extreme night blindness or ride really fast. Running two, Triple Seoul P4 (u-bin) LED lights is enough to make any HID rider very envious It's especially rewarding when folks come up asking, "what kind of light is that?" It's a great feeling... and you'll be very proud when you tell them that you built the light yourself.
    it was your thread and DIY guide that really made me think this was possible. Its well written and goes into enough detail that just about anyone can do it. If i never read your stuff i wouldn't building this and probably end up with a boring off the shelf HID like everyone else i know.

    Just want to say thans achesalot and hopefully my lights will come out half as good as yours did.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by brent878
    it was your thread and DIY guide that really made me think this was possible. Its well written and goes into enough detail that just about anyone can do it. If i never read your stuff i wouldn't building this and probably end up with a boring off the shelf HID like everyone else i know.

    Just want to say thans achesalot and hopefully my lights will come out half as good as yours did.
    You're welcome! Glad you liked the DIY guide. I need to do more work on it, but things have been crazy for me lately... not to mention my bike frame cracked a few weeks ago

    Glad you are following the tradition of sharing your build with everyone here. Looks good so far. Keep us posted!
    - Allen

  23. #23
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    I have a question. If i want to run the 1000mah buckpuck and also want a low setting using a resister at like half or 350 mah who size would i use?



    It will be powering 3 led's in series from a 14.8v li-ion battery. And where would i install the resister at? It will be from a 3-way toggle switch.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by brent878
    I have a question. If i want to run the 1000mah buckpuck and also want a low setting using a resister at like half or 350 mah who size would i use?



    It will be powering 3 led's in series from a 14.8v li-ion battery. And where would i install the resister at? It will be from a 3-way toggle switch.
    Brent. From your photos, it looks like you have the 4-wire, 3023 buckpucks that don't support dimming. Unless the buckpuck has a ctrl and ref pin to place a pot or resistor across, you cannot dim it. Placing a resistor in-line after the LED output will possibly damage the device and your LEDs.

    The 3021 model buckpuck supports dimming via resistor or potentiometer across its control & reference pins.

    FYI, I've edited the DIY LED Bike Lighting site to emphasize that the 3023 wired Luxdrive Buckpuck controllers typically do not support dimming because the ctrl + ref pins are not available. Notice I said typically. That's because on Cutter's site they do offer a Luxdrive Buckpuck with dimming and the "3023 flying lead" option (which means wired). I've never seen one of these, but I guess they do exist. The 3023s from LED Supply have only 4 wires (2 for power, 2 for LEDs), although I've heard someone mention that they got a wired 3023 form LedSupply that supported dimming... so maybe you just have to ask for them. Bottom line... if there is no CTRL and REF pin (or wire) on the Buckpuck... it does not support dimming.
    Last edited by achesalot; 06-24-2007 at 06:26 AM.

  25. #25
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    well finally got her working, yay Got her done at like midnight last night and going to try her out tonight and see how she does. Did a quick test in the backyard and it seems pretty bright but its hard to compare with no other bike lights. I didn't bother taking beam shots becuase i want another bike light to show so you can compare. But the beam was almost perfect, with the wide angle and the spot you don't really see a bight spot. Its bright in the middle and just kinda fades out with lots of light everywhere. The real test will be tonight as i am going with my dad who uses a nightrider HID so i will really be able to tell how mine holds up. And hopefully I won't have any mechanical problems with the light. It was a really tight fit. I went with the 2 1000mah buckpucks, one for each set of led's. Low is just the 3 led's on wide angle and high is all 6 led's on.

    Here are the pics:

    here is the cuts i made for the heat sinks:


    here is the finished heat sinks (actually the 2nd set. I made the first set too small and had to start over):



    lens on the heat sink:


    led's expoxied onto the heat sinks and wired. I should have used smaller wires to make it easier to work with:


    and the finished product:





    The little red and black wires you see by the battery plug are for my tail light. I have a custom led tail light in my seat but i am going to rewire it so that's what those are for if your wondering.

    I tested out the bflex with this setup and i would have to run the lights at 500mah to get it to work so i opted to go with the 1000mah buckpucks to see how i would like it. I am planning on doing another set when i get all the bugs worked out with this one and use the bflex or dual bflex's if I think that 1000mah is going to be needed.

    Tell me what you think.

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