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  1. #1
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    My Easy DIY build. supply help

    I am putting together my supply list for my "Easy DIY" build. I wanted to see if I have my ordered figured out properly or if I need/should change things.

    If I do a 6 XPG build

    Hammond case 1455-c http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...atchallpartial
    Which dimension would fit best

    2x 3 up XPG's http://ledsupply.com/creexpg-w417.php
    Carclo Triple Optics http://ledsupply.com/carclo-optics-xpg-3up.php
    Buckpuck http://ledsupply.com/03023-d-n-1000.php 1000 ma right? dimming or no dimming?




    The other build I might do is
    5 XPG R5's

    Hammond case 1455b http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1455B1202.pdf not sure where to order from

    5 XPG R5's http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut937 there are a lot of options there, does it matter which one I get?

    5 Carclo 10mm optics http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail....=cut837&cat=74

    buckpuck same as the one above


    I know I will need AA and a switch and battery cord connector but I can get those from places like radio shack right?

    What would be the best battery setup? And where would you suggest I get that from? Number of batteries etc..

    Is there anything I am forgetting?

    Also, how quick is the shipping from Cutter to US?

    thanks for all the help, can't wait to get this build started.

  2. #2
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    I am thinking 2 or 4 of these for battery. What is a good pack to put them into? Then I would need a charger and I should be set to go besides a bar/helmet mount.

  3. #3
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    6 XPG's will look nice. Heatsinking will be important. I would have to add (glue) a heatsink or two to the Hammond box. Without more heatsinking, you will need to go down on the number of led's; 3 or 4 will prolly be max for the 14xx box. I am biased, I live in NW Florida. It's hot as hell riding even at night.
    I got my AA from some online computer store.
    You want dimming, if you're riding with a group, the dust is blinding. You will need to dim. Buy R5 led's.
    For headlights, Regina reflectors are very nice, carclo triples are nice too. I've never tried the 10mm carclo's, it's been my experience that smaller optics don't work as well.
    About 2 weeks shipping time.
    I assemble my own batteries with parts from batteryspace.com. They have power cords, shrink tubing, protection PCB's, etc. good luck James

  4. #4
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    So a dimming buckpuck will work ok for this build? I assume dimming means I would have to have a turn knob on the box to control the light output?


    There are multiple R5's on the site, which ones do I choose or doesn't it matter.

    Thanks for the input.

  5. #5
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    If you want to dim the Buckpuck you will need a 4.7 or 5k linear taper (not audio) pot - also the dimming Buckpuck model is "3023-D-E-1000" and I'd suggest the wired Buckpuck. The best pot I found that is semi-sealed is this one (not cheap, but does work):

    P16NP472MAB15http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ZPBNEw0A%3d%3d

    It will fit the smaller case or the bigger one:



    If you want a simple high/lo off, then you could also use a switch and resistors in place of the pot, which would give more options and probably cheaper too though if you want to dim at all you need the dimmable Buckpuck:

    http://www.ledsupply.com/03023-d-e-1000p.php

  6. #6
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    Awesome thanks for that info. Helped a lot. I will be riding with maybe 2 other people at night and conditions here are not really dusty. Do I still need to go with dimming?

    Any advice on battery pack/charger/cord etc? I think that's the only part that I don't have nailed down yet.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by spitfire
    Awesome thanks for that info. Helped a lot. I will be riding with maybe 2 other people at night and conditions here are not really dusty. Do I still need to go with dimming?
    Sometimes it is nice to be able to run on a lower setting - high run time when high output not required, road sections etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by spitfire
    Any advice on battery pack/charger/cord etc? I think that's the only part that I don't have nailed down yet.
    How are you intending on wiring your LEDs?

  8. #8
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    MrLee that s a good point I think I will go with a dimming buck.

    So does the pot also turn it on or would I still need on/off switch?

    I was planning on wiring them like this
    http://picasaweb.google.com/jmorteli...39573797974546

  9. #9
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    Good idea to go with a dimming model. If your light gets too hot is it better to have some light than none if you need it to cool down. Also on long climbs or breaks you would probably need to put the power down a bit to help with the cooling. With a pot on the dimming model you can shut it off the LEDs by turning it all the way down (then the LEDs will go off completely). I have no on off on mine, except for the power plug which I unplug at the end of using it so I can recharge the batteries anyway. I think the Buckpuck may draw some small amount of standby current otherwise but it would be minimal and I have not measured it - if you wanted to store it with the battery long term you may need a switch.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by spitfire
    I was planning on wiring them like this
    http://picasaweb.google.com/jmorteli...39573797974546
    That looks good, but I would recommend using some beefier angle such as 1/8" or 1/4" angle (even better). The angle that was used on the light in the link does not look like it has enough mass to efficiently move heat away IMHO. I would also make the part that contacts the case as large as possible with some thermal adhesive/grease/whatever you want - though I would not recommend making anything super permanent since you may/probably will need to take it apart to repair at some point.

    Finally, you will probably find that by itself the heatsink/angle will not sit flat to the case when installed so it would be a good idea to screw it into the case by tapping some holes though the bottom of the case and into the heatsink so you can tighten it down to the case with some screws - you could also use the holes to mount the base for whatever light mounting setup you plan to use.

    And please post pics of the build.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by spitfire
    MrLee that s a good point I think I will go with a dimming buck.

    So does the pot also turn it on or would I still need on/off switch?

    I was planning on wiring them like this
    http://picasaweb.google.com/jmorteli...39573797974546
    They have been wired in series, if you were to do it like that you'd be better off with a boost driver rather than the buckpuck in order to get the voltage required.

  12. #12
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    I too am going to make a DIY light with a Hammond style box. Look for he models which are just about 1" high. There is one or two modes in the .95" range and a couple around 1.05" In addition, instead of 90 degree angle. You could use 1" hollow square tubing.

    This will allow you to place the heat sink in and with the addition of a couple of homemade copper of aluminum shims - you can have pretty good heat transfer to both the top and bottom of the case.

    In addition you can use thermal paste instead of thermal adhesive to secure the hollow square tubing to the case. A dab of epoxy in the corners could be used to make sure it does not shift around.

    Since in general he case is the biggest pain in the ass to fabricate, this allows you to change LEDs when the latest and greatest come around. It also lets you shift and disassemble things if there is mistake.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrLee
    They have been wired in series, if you were to do it like that you'd be better off with a boost driver rather than the buckpuck in order to get the voltage required.
    Sorry I missed that there were 5 in series, that makes for a bigger pack (I was thinking you were asking about the method of connecting the LEDs in series + to -). There will also be more heat which means don't skimp on the heatsinking. You can still use the buckpuck. I only have 4 in my lights and am using an 18v Makita battery and a couple homemade packs with nimh and a123's. The buckpuck will need about 2v more than the LED's and you will need to figure that as the battery goes down there will be a drop in it's voltage to consider (so that means an even bigger pack). The rule of thumb seems to be one cell per LED plus one more for the driver if using Li-ion cells.

    See "Fixed current drive" on page 3 of the datasheet:
    http://www.luxdrive.com/download/?dltf&dmid=1109

    Also take into account the fact that batteries (Li-ion, nimh or whatever) off the charger will always be at a higher voltage than what they say on the package (their nominal voltage). With Li-ion, they should not be discharged lower than 2.8v and hot off the charger will probably be around 4.2v. Their nominal voltage of 3.7v will be seen after they have been used for a while and will stay pretty flat till the end when there will be a drop off and if the cells are protected, they will go off below 2.8v.

    This was something I found googling "li-ion 18650 discharge" (image search):

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...3&postcount=22

    Here is one for eneloope nimh AA cells:

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=149804

    So you can probably do OK with a 6 cell li-ion pack if you need 5 LED's with the buck. I'd use a holder or buy a premade pack if using Li-ions (would not solder li-ions which is dangerous and could run the PTC protection of the cell). You could also use a AA nimh pack.

  14. #14
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    The problem with using a buckpuck in this configuration (which may not be a problem), they will force you into using at least that many cells to get the voltage, regardless of what runtime you require - using 6 18650 (2400ma) would give just under 3 hours, depending on driver efficiency.
    Last edited by MrLee; 08-22-2010 at 03:08 PM.

  15. #15
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    Where is a good place to order a pot from besides the one that was already linked too(a little expensive) Is there a specific pot that I need? I want to order in the next few days so I can get the build moving.

    Running 6 batteries is fine with me, isn't there a member who sells premade packs and chargers?

    Oh and what type of cable runs from the battery pack to the light, or I should say what type of connector and I looking for to go into the back of the light?

    Thanks to everybody with all the help. I think after I get my first one under my belt things should get a little easier....i hope

  16. #16
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    Basically as HuffyPuffy say, you need a 5k linear pot, if it was me, I'd just wire some resistors to a switch for high/low instead, with a separate switch for power.

    To keep it simple you don't even need a connector on the back of your light, just run your cable though a gland and just worry about the connector to your battery pack.
    Last edited by MrLee; 08-23-2010 at 01:15 PM.

  17. #17
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    I am ordering my box from alliedelec.com and they have pots there http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...Potentiometers

    but many many options.

    I want to keep the back of the box looking clean so I would like to use a connector for the battery pack. But as I said, not 100% sure what I need there.

  18. #18
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    High/low I guess would be ok too but I have not sure about the resistor part of it.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by spitfire
    I am ordering my box from alliedelec.com and they have pots there http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...Potentiometers

    but many many options.

    I want to keep the back of the box looking clean so I would like to use a connector for the battery pack. But as I said, not 100% sure what I need there.
    http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...A8D71&i=0&sw=n

    Take your pick, you want panel mount too. Don't forget you will need a knob for the end too ;-)

    With regards to using a switch instead, you'd need a 5k for full power, then would need to play to get the level you wanted for any other settings, a small trim pot soldered onto the back of the switch would be an option.

    With regards to a connector, I have no recommendations, but keep in mind what sort of environment you are going to be using it in? does it need to be waterproof etc?

  20. #20
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    Ok so, hopefully I am soon ready to order lol. Have to say one of the most confusing projects I have taken on and I have been through my fair share of projects. Anyways, here is my updated supply list.

    Hammond case 1455b http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=8061178

    5 XPG R5's http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut937 there are a lot of options there, does it matter which one I get?
    any other place to order the LED's from i'm in the US

    5 Carclo 10mm optics http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail....=cut837&cat=74

    buckpuck with dimming http://www.ledsupply.com/03023-d-e-1000p.php

    DC power jack http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=2832550
    or might just get one from local Radio Shack along with power cable.

    Pot http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=5220044 will this be ok?

    Arctic Silver adhesive http://ledsupply.com/asta-7g.php

    Batteries 6x http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5790 unless there is a better place to order from?

    Charger seems like you can only charge 2 at a time http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6105

    battery holder 6 compact http://www.luminousdiy.com/Light%20K...ts.htm#holders

    Unless I am forgetting something this should get me through my first light build

  21. #21
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    If you are going with that smaller hammond case, best to make sure that the pot will fit (I am not saying it will not, but it does look like it may not). You can find the dimensions on the datasheet for the pot. Also the pot does not need to be a high current heavy duty pot, it is only taking a small amount of current so just about any 5k linear pot will do. You may also want to order a knob for a pot if you get that type.

    EDIT - that pot has a 1" diameter so it will not fit the smaller hammond case - max is 15.25mm/0.6"

  22. #22
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    Huffy, I just noticed that as well. Will look for another pot but everything else looks ok to you?

    Thanks again for your lending your help.

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    The TrustFire cells are ok, but have been known to exaggerate the ratings :-) I'd get some of these holders if you haven't got any - http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.18074

    For the price, you might want to get two chargers, to speed charging times.

  24. #24
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    Wow the price of 18650's has gone up!

    I have not used the optics, or the holders, but that is like the buckpuck I have used, however that model says it comes with the pot. It will probably include a cheap pot that you may not be able to use with the light though (you need a panel mount pot). This is the model without the pot (cheaper too):

    http://ledsupply.com/03023-d-e-1000.php

  25. #25
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    So other than the last few suggestions my order seems to be right so I should go ahead and start ordering those supplies? I will make sure I change the buckpuck before I order and look more into those battery holders as well before ordering those. Sure I will be back with questions regarding those haha

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