Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697

    More road light experiments

    The twin XM-L Marwi conversion lives and is posted here.

    That link includes links to the Dyno conversion of low beam light posted here last year as a battery only light here. The first link also includes pics of Version 2 of the helmet light and a wall shot of its improved separation beam.

    The mods to Version 2 were not posted before. It now has an XP-E R3 replacing the dedomed XP-G R5 and a B2Fex and a new single lens holder instead of three separate ones. I also allowed wide angle light from one XP-G to miss the bottom of the lens barrel to be used as side marker light with an amber hood. At the risk of redundancy here it is again with the hood:


    By brianmcb at 2011-03-21

    That idea worked out very well.

    The XP-E adds about 0.4 watts of heat compared to the XP-G it replaced. In a <8 square inch housing, that is just enough extra on top of about 9 Watts of heat @ 1 amp to be of concern even with air flow. So I improved thermal path to the body while I was at it. It will not triggger 70 C with ambient of about 7 C and a 5 km wind riding at about the same speed. I will see if I can lower that cut off temp at higher ambients.

    Now that the XM-L is available on 10 mm MCPCB, the logical way to three projected die sizes for a stacked triple beam is to START with three different sized dies and the lenses can be in the same plane which makes things much easier to construct. AND I drop more heat output than the XP-E adds. Yes, the XP-G and XM-L will be underdriven and I'd only get an inconsequential 50 lumens more from the XM-L compared to the XP-G it replaces, but as the helmet light is approaching a car beam brightness on the road, at 100 + feet and very useable aimed twice as far, that would not concern me overmuch. CREE may come out with a replacement for the XP-E that will handle 1.5 A, and I will be ready! A three LED light with different sizes of dies is an irresistable idea in this light.

    So heat monitoring, beamshots, and videos and bike riding are next. And then an XM-L swap-in after I record what I have now so we can compare.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697
    FYI. A day video of the lights especially the helmet light in action and first for the twin XM-L lights is posted here.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Where did you mount the time travel circuits? ;-)

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    703
    Water bottle

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697
    MrLee: I assume the time travel refers to the editing to save you waiting for me to turnaround. If so, cute.

    The moving tests showed the small time window our lights' flashes are seen in as we move approaching an intersection. Otherwise a stationary bike and helmet will do.

    So after my ride this evening with a less bright sky close to the afternoon of the video, I simply looked at the bike and helmet from the same distance as the camera. The helmet front light is fairly noticeable, the helmet PBSF, next, the side firing PBSF is disappointing , and the side output of the Radbot 1000 is as expected for the day: a point of light just visible.

    The camera sees better than I do without my glasses, but not as well as I do with them, I will be able to find the distance where it sees as well as I do at 75' and use that as my filming spot and stand in for a motorist 1-2 seconds from the intersection for a new night shoot. That position stands in for the angled view when they are closer to the stop and the cyclist is approaching or leaving. Not exact, but a following motorized camera mount is beyond my budget. Need to relocate some lights before that test.

    kan3: I must be tired after the ride. Sorry, I just don't 'get' "Water bottle." Unless you had too much popcorn?

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    2
    i think the water bottle comment was aimed at the "where did you put time travel circuits comment" "in the water bottle"

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    333
    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    MrLee: I assume the time travel refers to the editing to save you waiting for me to turnaround. If so, cute.
    Not really, I noticed that you travelled forward in time to the year 2019 to undertake the tests, I was hoping for flying cars by that point. :-(

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697
    It is a cheap key fob camera and there are no instructions on setting the date/time stamp for this version. So rather than use the methods for a different model, I opted for a working camera with an incorrect time stamp, and not risk killing it. They are cheap in so many ways.

  9. #9
    meep meep !!!
    Reputation: Road_Runner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    It is a cheap key fob camera and there are no instructions on setting the date/time stamp for this version. So rather than use the methods for a different model, I opted for a working camera with an incorrect time stamp, and not risk killing it. They are cheap in so many ways.
    If you browse to this website

    http://www.chucklohr.com/808/

    it tells you all the ins & outs of the various 808 key fob cameras including how to set the time / date stamp etc.

    It looks like you have the #8 version judging by the time / date stamp on yours BTW.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697
    Thanks. When I first got the pair, that was not worked out on his site. In facct it wasn't clear they were #8s. I had the link saved but did not check before this run because I got used to ignoring the incorrect stamp. I'll have a go now that a specific procedure is given.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697
    I tested increasing the daytime side output of the Helmet Light here

    My first evaluations of it at night are in this post. This includes the twin XM-L light in 1.4 and 0.7 A outputs.

    I will do ride-toward the camera-as-driver video to verify its road friendliness when not aimed at the oncoming driver. I am trying to figure out how to spin the dyno hub because I want to get beamshots of all lights at the same time. Anyone try a cordless drill with a small utility wheel in the chuck and friction drive the dyno wheel? I can set it in my trainer at the front end, board under the back for level, and tie the bars so it is stable.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697
    Learing on the Drift HD170 Stealth.

    Here is a short video of teh helmet light output:




    The nearer beam could use the XM-L over e short focused XP-G. Still learning on the camera and editing. My asthma was in a bad way, but you tolerated Troutie's puffing, so I'm just another 'Little Engine That Could'.

    I just fixed that! The time/date stamp needs resetting more often than I did it,

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697
    Update on XM-L Headlights. Currently repainting the bike but was using:



    35 mm Iris, and Eva @ 1.4 A, Eva aimed close, Iris mid, triple XP-G aspheric helmet light for far. Hoods needed to cut top of beams to improve road friendliness. Narrow beams with enough spill to be seen but not enough to blind oncoming. Beamshots long overdue. Once bike is rebuilt and I have the new batttery, I can get them done. I preferred these over the Regina in my crude beam tests before building the lights.

    Driving them at two amps with the driver in one will push the surface area of the Marwi housings to dump the heat in continuous use. The 3 A might be possible on a fast downhill or a very windy ride but the spill would blind oncoming drivers I suspect.

    Cloudy Day 80 Ft Distant Visibility Ride-By Headlights aimed forward:




    Sunny day 25 foot Visibility Ride-By Headlights at 45 degrees:



    Adding some fins might allow 2.8-3 A continuous for increased daylight conspicuity.

    Can you see me NOW!?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,697
    I got a Round Tuit.

    1. New firmware to upgrade night performance of Drift Innovation POV camera.
    2. New Battery capable of 3 Amp.
    3. BIke rebuilt.

    I upgraded the hoods to reduce the anti-oncoming driver spill and increase side visibility:

    Twin Marwi from EL34 with XM-L T6, near one with eva and a shoehorned H6Flex (shaved a bit off) the other with a deeper Iris sans holder and a bubble acrylic cover lens as that lens has a central hole.



    Camera on bar so it doesn't folloe the helmet beam overly well. Same section 3 passes forom the same Mailbox to red yard light. First pass: @ 2.8 A and helmet at 0.5; Secondpass: 2.8 A and 1 A on Helmet; and Third pass: 2.0 A and 1 A on helmet.



    [More videos from BrianMcB]

    Camera drops less of the spill but useful spill was twice as wide as seen. Also the far side of dips showed nicely for me but not the camera, and the hot spot was not glare but you could see the texture of the pavement clearly. I can ride them at 750 mA but they really come into their own at 2.8 A. The helmet light at 0.5 A when the fronts are at 2.8 helps on corners but doesn't add much out front. The 1 A Helemt and 2 A fronts is a nice combination. With the 'Hi' for wet pavement.

    At 65 F, the helmet light was warm, as was the front unit with the driver. It did trip the thermal setting, so I will have to up that. The driver mount may need some tweaks.

    The beam is nice and in my lane with a low spill. I did not wash the oncoming driver in light. The amber shades worked well, too:




    Round 1 Low/Low (F/Helmet) Round 2 Low/Hi, Round 3 Hi/Lo, Round 4 Hi/Hi, thene a pass looling at camera with Helmet on Hi, coming back with Helmet on low and a shorter glance, then Hi/Hi 2' from camera.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •