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  1. #1
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    Mofoki's Mag Mod

    This is my first light build. I've snooped around these forums for months now learning from what you guys have posted and this is my version. I took a Mag D light I picked up from Walmart and chopped it up with a hacksaw to get what I wanted from it. I made a chuck for the head and put it in my drill press and spun the heck out of it to make the cooling finns then buffed it with steel wool. I don't have a lathe yet. I got three Cree Q4's to drop in it with a BFlex driver. I got one of those fancy heatsinks from The Sandwich Shoppe. I fabricated the bayonet mount with the dremel tool for the bar mount which came from Planet Bike's website. I have a 14.8v Li-Ion battery pack from Battery Space. The lense is from Khatod's USA distributor. And the rest is general assembly stuff I've had around. I'm not so sure I'm going to keep this optic lense in there. I have some other Khatod tripple lenses I can fit right in. Also I had to cut down the bezel by 2mm so it would hold the lense in tight. In my opion it's not a bad looking build for someone with the lack of the right tools.
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  2. #2
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    It looks awesome.

  3. #3
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    Impressive work, especially for the tools you (didn't) have to work with! I'm really impressed with the way you integrated the mount in. Looks very professional. I wouldn't even take a second look at a light like that and think homebrew. Where/how are you going to set up the B-flex switch?
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  4. #4
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    These things keep getting cooler and cooler. Great idea and execution.
    I'm trying to do a similar thing with a piece of aluminum I have. Would you mind explaining your drill press chuck lathe-like set-up? What did you use to cut the fins?
    Wrecker of fine things

  5. #5
    I spelled Knievel wrong
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    Wow! I'd love to see what you could do with some proper tools... That is some seriously nice work! Keep it up man!

  6. #6
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    I am still thinking about the bFlex switch Not sure how far away from the board it can be mounted but I thought about remoting it.There is a thread here where the guy fabricated a housing for a mouse switch and dipped the whole thing in plastic cote. I like having my controls on the bar as close to the grips as possible.

    The chuck to hold the head in the drill press was really hokkie. I used some aluminum pulleys with close diameters to the ends of the head and all-thread and sandwiched it. While it spun at high speed I carefully pushed a large hacksaw blade into it. Then used some emery cloth to clean up the ruff stuff and then fine steel wool to make it shine. The hacksaw blade really worked fast, there was metal shavings flying all over the place. Wear googles if you attempt to do it this way. A lathe would have made for a more perfect gap between the finns but it's close enough for gov't work. I think I will get a lathe one of these days, I'm keeping my eye open for a bargain.

  7. #7
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    I love it!

    Quote Originally Posted by mofoki
    The chuck to hold the head in the drill press was really hokkie. I used some aluminum pulleys with close diameters to the ends of the head and all-thread and sandwiched it. While it spun at high speed I carefully pushed a large hacksaw blade into it. Then used some emery cloth to clean up the ruff stuff and then fine steel wool to make it shine. The hacksaw blade really worked fast, there was metal shavings flying all over the place. Wear googles if you attempt to do it this way. A lathe would have made for a more perfect gap between the finns but it's close enough for gov't work. I think I will get a lathe one of these days, I'm keeping my eye open for a bargain.
    That is great. I guess that drill press must have a pretty good amount of torque.
    Wrecker of fine things

  8. #8
    Singletrack Daydreamer
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    I've thought about the remote thing, too. Seems like it would be easy enough with the bFlex since any momentary switch will work to send the signal. You might even think about having your driver in your battery case.

    I've thought about making a wireless remote for my helmet with a switch on the bars, but really need to find the right person help me with some switching circuits to make it happen.

    Seriously nice work. I started with similar insanity, trying to use a compound slide miter saw and a drill press with a 4-way vice on it as a mill when I first started playing. Now I've picked up a cheap mill from Harbor Freight, but even after a year of using it, don't have half the skills I need to get the precision I need to make stuff look good. Keep an eye out on e-bay. Machining hobbiests are always upgrading their mills and lathes. I'd hate to see what you could do with the right tools!
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  9. #9
    Spanish biker
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    Wowww, very nice!!!!! but don't are very diffuse the optics??

    Greetings - Saludos
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
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    The Beast!!!

  10. #10
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    It's beautiful! What kind of power source are you using with this?

  11. #11
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    How did you dremel that mount?????

    I need to pull out my dremel from the closet!
    www.mtbiker.ca

    My Rides:
    FSR XC -R7 Platinum - SRAM X7 (26.5lbs)
    Cervelo SLC - SRAM Rival - Reynolds DV46T (16.25 lbs)

  12. #12
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    Kind of like a beaver carves the pieces for his dam. No, it took some time to scalpt the mount out of a piece of aluminum. Most people wouldn't screw around with anything that much. I like playing around with my dremel. I use to build RC airplanes and probably accquired my skills from that.

    I made the switch today but I can't get the pics posted until tomarrow. Wait until you all see it.

  13. #13
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    dam that looks really nice for a drill press.

    I am using a kill switch off a honda CR250 for my bflex. It mounts next to my grips. I haven't mounted it yet but a switch is a switch right? Post pics of the switch you made.

  14. #14
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    Do you have a link for the heat sink I went to sandwich shop and couldnt find that sink, been looking for a screw in one. Thanks Good job btw

  15. #15
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    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=912

    Let me check to see if this link worked.

    Yup! It worked.

  16. #16
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    Since I liked the idea of using the micro switch from a computer mouse and the fact it's readily available and FREE, I canibalized an old mouse. Turns out there was three switches in there. Yupeee! Spares for my next project.
    I soldered some wires to the pins on the switch and used some small pieces of heatshrink tubing to cover the solder.
    I have some plastic spacers that are about 1 inch in diameter and .25 inch thick with a hole in the middle, kind of like a big fat washer. I cut out a gap big enough for the switch to fit then drilled a 1/16th in hole to pin the switch in the washer. The actuating button of the switch is centered in the circumference of the spacer.
    The spacer assembly fits perfectly in the inside of a plastic beauty end-cap for standard 2 in.aluminum tubing which happens to be the same size as the back end of my light. I cut a 1/2 inch hole in the cap and took a rubber patch from a tire patch kit to make a membrane button cover for the switch. It works great. I am so proud of myself.
    Building the back like this will allow me to close up the back end without twisting the wires by screwing on a cap. It will aslo be water resistant and won't come off unless I want to remove it.
    I will get some pics tomarrow.

  17. #17
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    Here are the pics of the switch components and then mounted assembly, also a pic of the heatsink with the leds mounted and wired.
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  18. #18
    Crunchatize me Capn'
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    Wow, I had no idea that the thickness of a Mag head was that thick. I wish I could solder to try my own. Unfortunately I suck at it (not that I've ever done that much anyway). Nice job.

  19. #19
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    At the risk of sounding like some of my physicist and engineer collegues, you have come up with a truly elegant solution. Its making my efforts seem primitive (and violent) by comparison. I love the way it all fits together so smoothly, has nice design lines, utilizes simplicity, and above all, totally makes sense in the "common sense" approach. Thanks for the pics and explanations. GOOD WORK.
    Where does the power connect?
    Wrecker of fine things

  20. #20
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    how in the world did you manage to make that bayonet mount with a dremel tool? Can you post close up pics of that? Overall, it's real slick, makes me want to hack up my D-cell mag light...

    BM
    "I've come to believe that common sense is not that common" - Matt Timmerman

  21. #21
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    That thing is well done. I need to get into this DIY stuff. Hows the output?

  22. #22
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    You all are very kind with your comments. I'm glad you liked what I've done here. It all comes down to an obsesive style of focus and wanting to accomplish something with a little professional twist in mind.

    I knew someone was going to ask about the supply power and where I plan on routing it. I have a 14.8 Li-Ion pack from Battery Space that's less than a year old and has been maintained and used with a 12v halogen set. I just got the bFlex in the mail today when I got home from work so it's not mounted yet and that's why there are no pics. I am stuggling with where to locate the port for the supply wire because of the design of the back and location of the switch. There is room but it is just a push in back. It won't fall out but if there is a cable attached it could be yanked out and therefore tug on the wires soldered to the driver board. I'll figure out something that I can live with and is durable. Looking at it straight on from the back I thought I could drill a hole at about the 7 O'clock position on the side as close to the back as possible and run the wire up through there, Sort of like Niterider does on some of their heads.

  23. #23
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    Well, I got the wiring completed. I applied power. WOW! Even at the 350mA setting the thing is blinding. Wait! One led is flickering. Now it went out. It's the one in the center between the two which are connected to the neg and pos leads. How is that possible? Wait! It just came back on. I must not have payed enough attention to the details. I've got something wrong going on. The led is not burnt out. The path for current is there because the other two light ok. I hope I can figure this one out. Maybe it's a bad led. Anyway, when all three are lit and I tap on the switch it gets really bright. I don't know how much current the bright setting is passing, I have to read through the setup. I have a feeling I'd better order some more LEDs to fix the problem. Question: if the LED is grounding on the heatsink would that cause this problem? The meter test says I'm ok. Or, maybe the solder joint, when I soldered the wires to the LEDs, is making contact with the ring on the globe or lense of the LED? I'm scratchin my head because I can't find it with the meter. For the most part the LED stays on. I've kept it running for about 20 minutes and it's not even warm to the touch. Maybe it's time to boost up the power.

    Well, it's been a couple of hours screwing with this thing and it's werd but I haven't had any issues with the LED going out again. It only did it the one time. I did point it out the window and the throw is at least better than 100 yards. I would classify it as one of the best spotlights I've seen. Since then I've been trying to learn the programing sequence of the bFlex controller. I can't seem to figure out how to get the settings to save. I get the thing set up the way I want and the next time I plug the battery in I get the original opporating settings, ( low and high). At the high setting the head did get very warm, almost to warm to touch.

    I did run the supply cord through the side towards the rear of the unit and used a zip tie as a strain relief. It seems like it will hold well. I guess the next step is to actually field test it on the bike and maybe some beam shots so you all can see the pattern of the Khatod optics. This thing is one awesome light and I must say I'm somewhat proud of myself. Soon I'll be ready to build the Cree XR-E Q5 with four LEDs for a helmet mount.
    Last edited by mofoki; 11-16-2007 at 07:38 PM.

  24. #24
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    All said and done, I spent about $125 to complete this build. I already had a bunch of stuff like the battery pack. It was so simple to build I can't believe the big guys are charging the prices they are charging for these systems.

    I'm a little dissapointed. This light is bright. It does have plenty of throw even when I changed the lense back to the 25 degree defused. What it lacks is the spill to the sides to be a good handlebar light for mountainbiking. In tight switchbacks it's still difficult to see far enough into the turns to keep good balance and speed. A helmet light is going to be a must. If I build a LED helmet mount light I'm going to have to use something else for the housing to keep it light. I'm thinking panaramic too. I have 4 single lenses and holders and a buckpuck 1000mA driver to get this project started. I wonder if I should buy Cree or Seoul LEDs. I should go with a MaxFlex driver because I already have a 7.4v Li-Ion battery pack and charger. If I were to use the buck driver I would need to buy another 14.8v pack, that would also mean I'd be carrying more weight. Desissions, desissions, I am a man obsessed.

    Thanks again for all your positive comments and good luck to you all on your projects.

  25. #25
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    Hi!
    is the wiring glued or welded on your LEDs?

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