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  1. #1
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    Mofoki's Mag Mod

    This is my first light build. I've snooped around these forums for months now learning from what you guys have posted and this is my version. I took a Mag D light I picked up from Walmart and chopped it up with a hacksaw to get what I wanted from it. I made a chuck for the head and put it in my drill press and spun the heck out of it to make the cooling finns then buffed it with steel wool. I don't have a lathe yet. I got three Cree Q4's to drop in it with a BFlex driver. I got one of those fancy heatsinks from The Sandwich Shoppe. I fabricated the bayonet mount with the dremel tool for the bar mount which came from Planet Bike's website. I have a 14.8v Li-Ion battery pack from Battery Space. The lense is from Khatod's USA distributor. And the rest is general assembly stuff I've had around. I'm not so sure I'm going to keep this optic lense in there. I have some other Khatod tripple lenses I can fit right in. Also I had to cut down the bezel by 2mm so it would hold the lense in tight. In my opion it's not a bad looking build for someone with the lack of the right tools.
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  2. #2
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    It looks awesome.

  3. #3
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    Impressive work, especially for the tools you (didn't) have to work with! I'm really impressed with the way you integrated the mount in. Looks very professional. I wouldn't even take a second look at a light like that and think homebrew. Where/how are you going to set up the B-flex switch?
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  4. #4
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    These things keep getting cooler and cooler. Great idea and execution.
    I'm trying to do a similar thing with a piece of aluminum I have. Would you mind explaining your drill press chuck lathe-like set-up? What did you use to cut the fins?
    Wrecker of fine things

  5. #5
    I spelled Knievel wrong
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    Wow! I'd love to see what you could do with some proper tools... That is some seriously nice work! Keep it up man!

  6. #6
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    I am still thinking about the bFlex switch Not sure how far away from the board it can be mounted but I thought about remoting it.There is a thread here where the guy fabricated a housing for a mouse switch and dipped the whole thing in plastic cote. I like having my controls on the bar as close to the grips as possible.

    The chuck to hold the head in the drill press was really hokkie. I used some aluminum pulleys with close diameters to the ends of the head and all-thread and sandwiched it. While it spun at high speed I carefully pushed a large hacksaw blade into it. Then used some emery cloth to clean up the ruff stuff and then fine steel wool to make it shine. The hacksaw blade really worked fast, there was metal shavings flying all over the place. Wear googles if you attempt to do it this way. A lathe would have made for a more perfect gap between the finns but it's close enough for gov't work. I think I will get a lathe one of these days, I'm keeping my eye open for a bargain.

  7. #7
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    I love it!

    Quote Originally Posted by mofoki
    The chuck to hold the head in the drill press was really hokkie. I used some aluminum pulleys with close diameters to the ends of the head and all-thread and sandwiched it. While it spun at high speed I carefully pushed a large hacksaw blade into it. Then used some emery cloth to clean up the ruff stuff and then fine steel wool to make it shine. The hacksaw blade really worked fast, there was metal shavings flying all over the place. Wear googles if you attempt to do it this way. A lathe would have made for a more perfect gap between the finns but it's close enough for gov't work. I think I will get a lathe one of these days, I'm keeping my eye open for a bargain.
    That is great. I guess that drill press must have a pretty good amount of torque.
    Wrecker of fine things

  8. #8
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    I've thought about the remote thing, too. Seems like it would be easy enough with the bFlex since any momentary switch will work to send the signal. You might even think about having your driver in your battery case.

    I've thought about making a wireless remote for my helmet with a switch on the bars, but really need to find the right person help me with some switching circuits to make it happen.

    Seriously nice work. I started with similar insanity, trying to use a compound slide miter saw and a drill press with a 4-way vice on it as a mill when I first started playing. Now I've picked up a cheap mill from Harbor Freight, but even after a year of using it, don't have half the skills I need to get the precision I need to make stuff look good. Keep an eye out on e-bay. Machining hobbiests are always upgrading their mills and lathes. I'd hate to see what you could do with the right tools!
    Train 'til you puke. Cheat to win. Party like a rockstar. We miss you, Jan!

  9. #9
    Spanish biker
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    Wowww, very nice!!!!! but don't are very diffuse the optics??

    Greetings - Saludos
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  10. #10
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    It's beautiful! What kind of power source are you using with this?

  11. #11
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    How did you dremel that mount?????

    I need to pull out my dremel from the closet!
    www.mtbiker.ca

    My Rides:
    FSR XC -R7 Platinum - SRAM X7 (26.5lbs)
    Cervelo SLC - SRAM Rival - Reynolds DV46T (16.25 lbs)

  12. #12
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    Kind of like a beaver carves the pieces for his dam. No, it took some time to scalpt the mount out of a piece of aluminum. Most people wouldn't screw around with anything that much. I like playing around with my dremel. I use to build RC airplanes and probably accquired my skills from that.

    I made the switch today but I can't get the pics posted until tomarrow. Wait until you all see it.

  13. #13
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    dam that looks really nice for a drill press.

    I am using a kill switch off a honda CR250 for my bflex. It mounts next to my grips. I haven't mounted it yet but a switch is a switch right? Post pics of the switch you made.

  14. #14
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    Do you have a link for the heat sink I went to sandwich shop and couldnt find that sink, been looking for a screw in one. Thanks Good job btw

  15. #15
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    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...roducts_id=912

    Let me check to see if this link worked.

    Yup! It worked.

  16. #16
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    Since I liked the idea of using the micro switch from a computer mouse and the fact it's readily available and FREE, I canibalized an old mouse. Turns out there was three switches in there. Yupeee! Spares for my next project.
    I soldered some wires to the pins on the switch and used some small pieces of heatshrink tubing to cover the solder.
    I have some plastic spacers that are about 1 inch in diameter and .25 inch thick with a hole in the middle, kind of like a big fat washer. I cut out a gap big enough for the switch to fit then drilled a 1/16th in hole to pin the switch in the washer. The actuating button of the switch is centered in the circumference of the spacer.
    The spacer assembly fits perfectly in the inside of a plastic beauty end-cap for standard 2 in.aluminum tubing which happens to be the same size as the back end of my light. I cut a 1/2 inch hole in the cap and took a rubber patch from a tire patch kit to make a membrane button cover for the switch. It works great. I am so proud of myself.
    Building the back like this will allow me to close up the back end without twisting the wires by screwing on a cap. It will aslo be water resistant and won't come off unless I want to remove it.
    I will get some pics tomarrow.

  17. #17
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    Here are the pics of the switch components and then mounted assembly, also a pic of the heatsink with the leds mounted and wired.
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  18. #18
    Crunchatize me Capn'
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    Wow, I had no idea that the thickness of a Mag head was that thick. I wish I could solder to try my own. Unfortunately I suck at it (not that I've ever done that much anyway). Nice job.

  19. #19
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    At the risk of sounding like some of my physicist and engineer collegues, you have come up with a truly elegant solution. Its making my efforts seem primitive (and violent) by comparison. I love the way it all fits together so smoothly, has nice design lines, utilizes simplicity, and above all, totally makes sense in the "common sense" approach. Thanks for the pics and explanations. GOOD WORK.
    Where does the power connect?
    Wrecker of fine things

  20. #20
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    how in the world did you manage to make that bayonet mount with a dremel tool? Can you post close up pics of that? Overall, it's real slick, makes me want to hack up my D-cell mag light...

    BM
    "I've come to believe that common sense is not that common" - Matt Timmerman

  21. #21
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    That thing is well done. I need to get into this DIY stuff. Hows the output?

  22. #22
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    You all are very kind with your comments. I'm glad you liked what I've done here. It all comes down to an obsesive style of focus and wanting to accomplish something with a little professional twist in mind.

    I knew someone was going to ask about the supply power and where I plan on routing it. I have a 14.8 Li-Ion pack from Battery Space that's less than a year old and has been maintained and used with a 12v halogen set. I just got the bFlex in the mail today when I got home from work so it's not mounted yet and that's why there are no pics. I am stuggling with where to locate the port for the supply wire because of the design of the back and location of the switch. There is room but it is just a push in back. It won't fall out but if there is a cable attached it could be yanked out and therefore tug on the wires soldered to the driver board. I'll figure out something that I can live with and is durable. Looking at it straight on from the back I thought I could drill a hole at about the 7 O'clock position on the side as close to the back as possible and run the wire up through there, Sort of like Niterider does on some of their heads.

  23. #23
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    Well, I got the wiring completed. I applied power. WOW! Even at the 350mA setting the thing is blinding. Wait! One led is flickering. Now it went out. It's the one in the center between the two which are connected to the neg and pos leads. How is that possible? Wait! It just came back on. I must not have payed enough attention to the details. I've got something wrong going on. The led is not burnt out. The path for current is there because the other two light ok. I hope I can figure this one out. Maybe it's a bad led. Anyway, when all three are lit and I tap on the switch it gets really bright. I don't know how much current the bright setting is passing, I have to read through the setup. I have a feeling I'd better order some more LEDs to fix the problem. Question: if the LED is grounding on the heatsink would that cause this problem? The meter test says I'm ok. Or, maybe the solder joint, when I soldered the wires to the LEDs, is making contact with the ring on the globe or lense of the LED? I'm scratchin my head because I can't find it with the meter. For the most part the LED stays on. I've kept it running for about 20 minutes and it's not even warm to the touch. Maybe it's time to boost up the power.

    Well, it's been a couple of hours screwing with this thing and it's werd but I haven't had any issues with the LED going out again. It only did it the one time. I did point it out the window and the throw is at least better than 100 yards. I would classify it as one of the best spotlights I've seen. Since then I've been trying to learn the programing sequence of the bFlex controller. I can't seem to figure out how to get the settings to save. I get the thing set up the way I want and the next time I plug the battery in I get the original opporating settings, ( low and high). At the high setting the head did get very warm, almost to warm to touch.

    I did run the supply cord through the side towards the rear of the unit and used a zip tie as a strain relief. It seems like it will hold well. I guess the next step is to actually field test it on the bike and maybe some beam shots so you all can see the pattern of the Khatod optics. This thing is one awesome light and I must say I'm somewhat proud of myself. Soon I'll be ready to build the Cree XR-E Q5 with four LEDs for a helmet mount.
    Last edited by mofoki; 11-16-2007 at 07:38 PM.

  24. #24
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    All said and done, I spent about $125 to complete this build. I already had a bunch of stuff like the battery pack. It was so simple to build I can't believe the big guys are charging the prices they are charging for these systems.

    I'm a little dissapointed. This light is bright. It does have plenty of throw even when I changed the lense back to the 25 degree defused. What it lacks is the spill to the sides to be a good handlebar light for mountainbiking. In tight switchbacks it's still difficult to see far enough into the turns to keep good balance and speed. A helmet light is going to be a must. If I build a LED helmet mount light I'm going to have to use something else for the housing to keep it light. I'm thinking panaramic too. I have 4 single lenses and holders and a buckpuck 1000mA driver to get this project started. I wonder if I should buy Cree or Seoul LEDs. I should go with a MaxFlex driver because I already have a 7.4v Li-Ion battery pack and charger. If I were to use the buck driver I would need to buy another 14.8v pack, that would also mean I'd be carrying more weight. Desissions, desissions, I am a man obsessed.

    Thanks again for all your positive comments and good luck to you all on your projects.

  25. #25
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    Hi!
    is the wiring glued or welded on your LEDs?

  26. #26
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    wow great build .
    I did not think there was so much metal in a mag head.
    this has now got me stripping a d cell mag light and looking .

    Is there enough room inside for the new cutter 3 cree kit mr16 optic when it is available. inside.http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=180298


    I only have some 50 mm ali bar and the mr 16 is 50 mm diameter I think.

    I like the switch reminds me of mine
    Cree / Bflex light build switch idea

    Did I say great build .

  27. #27
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    Actually Troute-mtb, I think I got the idea for the switch from you. It works great with just the touch of a finger. I found some rubber button boots at Dealtime.com in the DIY parts section. You might want to take a look.

    I think the mag head is one mm smaller than 50mm, at least that's what I measured, but lenses spec'd at 50mm work perfectly without any modifications. I don't think I'd buy a Cutter pre-assembled kit though. It's more fun to build from scratch and you have more options. Even though a three led light is bright, why settle when you can have four leds. I've alredy ordered the Maxflex driver and I'm serching for the LEDs right now to upgrade this build. One more thing about the Cutter kits, even though the LEDs are mounted to a board they say is a heatsink it doesn't look like it can handle the task. It just looks like it would heat up to quickly because it's so thin. The heatsink from The Sandwich Shoppe is one awesome heatsink. That's just my opinion.

  28. #28
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    The wiring is soldered. I wouldn't trust any glues to make good contact. Some here state that you need a very fine tip to accomplish the task but I used a Weller WP30 with a tip for most general soldering jobs. I'm pretty good though because I use to do it for a living. You just need to tin each part first then hold the two together and touch the iron to both parts evenly. Use flux and keep your iron as clean as possible by swiping it across a wet sponge.

  29. #29
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    You can pull a switch out of any old electronic equipment.
    TV remotes and calculators often use rubber type material that can be used to cover a Tact switch. Digikey is a great source. If you need a momentary on switch, you could use the switch component from the donor equipment itself, you just need to be creative and have fun.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by mofoki
    I'm a little dissapointed. This light is bright. It does have plenty of throw even when I changed the lense back to the 25 degree defused. What it lacks is the spill to the sides to be a good handlebar light for mountainbiking.
    Congrats on a really nice build!

    Do you think that the relatively tall lip of the maglight is cutting off the spill, or is it primarily an optics problem?

  31. #31
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    I think its an optics problem. I haven't been doing this long enough to learn whether lenses or reflectors work better. But looking at the light off the wall at about 10ft away you can see the lense pattern. In my opinion that should be smooth light.

  32. #32
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    Have you thought about using one of those thick glass lenses? They seem to disperse the light very well.
    Steve
    Oh, and nice work!

  33. #33
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    I'm not aware of the lense you are referring to. Like I said, I don't know that much about how the led output is affected by the lenses, reflectors, etc. I am looking at some lenses right now for the K2's I ordered. It's mind boggling because I don't know for sure if I need a medium beam, wide beam, and to go with a holder or no holder. I built that experiment light project by Instructables and it used individual lenses (4each) with holders which gave off a nice beam pattern. It was much nicer than the Khatod tripple I used in this build. I'm thinking reflectors are used to control the spot beam or give more spot which I don't want. I guess what I'm looking for is a beam which will match that of a 20W medium beam halogen.

  34. #34
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    check out candlepowerforum in builders,, heres one link, http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=154760
    Last edited by Cruiseman; 11-20-2007 at 06:07 PM.

  35. #35
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    Awesome Job!

    Bummer on the flickering cree once there epoxied in there they are a pain to remove. One thing you need to be carefull of with the cree's in series is if any part of the led pad carring voltage touches the heatsink then you will have serious problems.

    That mount for the head is very very impressive

    I have been thinkng of making something similar. For Mountain Biking I think Multiple LED's without reflectors with one center led with a reflector would be ideal.

    Mac

  36. #36
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    I don't know what caused that little bit of flicker with the initial start up but I've been using the light for two months now and haven't had a single complaint. I think it was just a bit of wet flux touching the silver ring around the lense and where the wires are soldered to the pads. Once it burnt off the short cleared itself.

  37. #37
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    Looks AWESOME! I am inspired. I am getting a MagLite!

    where is your power cord entering the light?

    What did you use to remove excess material when spinning the thing on the drill?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoMaTo
    Looks AWESOME! I am inspired. I am getting a MagLite!

    where is your power cord entering the light?

    What did you use to remove excess material when spinning the thing on the drill?
    I hope I don't make anybody mad by answering your post. I'm guessing everyone thinks I'm gone. That mag mod was one of my first builds. It is actually on the heavy side but works great. The heatsink was from the Sandwich Shoppe but I don't use those anymore. I have an excellent design that works well and is lighter but takes alot more work to build em. I still use a maglite but I chop it down to only half the head. I also use grommets and silicone button switch covers. I put 4 led's with reflectors in them and I'm getting more than 900 lumens. I haven't seen anything out there that's brighter yet. Everyone has been amazed at their brightness and sales are going good. If you feel like PM'ing me your email I'll send you the pics of the build process. All you need is a drill press and hacksaw blades and files and some patience to cut a neat housing.

  39. #39
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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    I am not so good with electronics.. But I do have a nice blue mag light and alot of experience on the lathe..Maybe a trade with someone? I can mod up your mag head in return for some electronics or something?
    I would like to make a Mag bar light..
    CDT

  40. #40
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    I have a similar 4 CREE light using the same heatsink from sandwich shop and a DX optic which gives a good deal of spill and decent throw (though probably not as much as yours). Anyways, regarding the intermittent issue you had with the light initially, I had a similar problem. It was a pain to get the emitters soldered until I used some rosin flux and silver solder (needs a bit hotter iron). The regular solder did not seem to work well with the pads on the emitters for some reason. I had my light fail twice before I fixed it for good with silver solder. The problem I had was that it took some hits which broke the joints and then I was out of light. If your meter has a continuity tester you could check each pad to the sink and also to the ring that goes around the LED since that can get shorted too. I also use the continuity tester to check the LED's out when I get them, and then when they are mounted since it will light em up, but very very dimly.

    Have you thought about illuminating the switch? The cheap DX green glow in the dark switch membranes look cool with a blue LED behind it, and it makes it easy to find the switch.

  41. #41
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    Yes, I've learned to always do a continuity check before applying voltage to these things. I also use flux paste because it really helps the solder flow much easier. Because this stuff is so small looking through a large magnifying glass helps too. I have, since the original build, added another led to this light and changed it from a lense to four of those 18mm reflectors from DX. It has made it way more brighter, I'm guessing over 900 lumens. People say I look like a freight train coming down the trail now. I don't even run the thing at full brightness any more.

  42. #42
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    That sounds like the same optic I am using:
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1915

    Edit: opps, I re-read your post and you are using the reflectors. How is the beam with that setup (throw or flood or a bit of both)?

    I used a buckpuck with a external pot in mine to dim it because it was too bright for the road (2x Q5's at 1A), but off road it is great. The Mag seems to have enough mass to keep the heat under control. I really like the fins on yours, and that you made them without a lathe.

    I just noticed that your pics don't show the cable (or I am missing it). Did you route it out the back or somehow through the mounting bracket?

  43. #43
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    How do you get the Khatod triple optic to fit in there? According to my "calculations" it is too deep.

    Best regards, Morten

  44. #44
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    The supply cord enters the housing at 7 0'clock, if you're looking at it from the back, and right through the fin area.
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  45. #45
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    I've been wanting to add some pics of how things have changed with this light and how I'm building them now. The drill press method for fabricating still applies. I don't have a lathe.
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  46. #46
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    Excuse me for the multiple posts to get all the pics in and the lack of discriptions with each pic. I'm still trying to figure out how to do all that.
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  47. #47
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    the reflectors are from DX
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  48. #48
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    These lights have been operating great and offer over 900 lumens on high. Now that I have the building processes down mass producing has been easier.
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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoMaTo
    How do you get the Khatod triple optic to fit in there? According to my "calculations" it is too deep.

    Best regards, Morten
    In my opinion the Khatod lenses aren't that great and even hold back the true output of these lights. I use the reflectors now.

  50. #50
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    Very nice! Did you flip the tail cap around so the open end is facing the rear?

    It looks like you removed quite a bit of material from the Mag Light head, it is almost not recognizable. I hope you get a lathe soon

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