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  1. #1
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    Modding a DiNotte Ultra-5 with a MC-E

    First off, I don't recommend doing this mod. Not because it doesn't work, but because you will lose the excellent CS with DiNotte, which has replaced things like worn out contacts on my ancient Ultra-5 (Luxeon-V chipped) long after the official warranty period.

    However, I'm a tinkerer, and I couldn't resist.

    Ever since the MC-E (quad-chip) came out, I've thought it would be a good replacement for the Luxeon-V, which is a dual-chip, so you just have to wire the MC-E 2x2 to get the same Vf. Someone beat me to it though: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=210005 - thats what you get for being lazy (and already having decent lights to ride with)

    This mod is slightly different, I used the stock emitter board and just replaced the Luxeon-V with an MC-E, and wired it 2x2 (2 chips in parallel, in series with another 2 in parallel).

    The base of the MC-E is in contact with the heat transfer post in the housing. I was going to use Carclo optics, but I got some $1 optics from DX first, so I tried them out. The DiNotte head requires the optic or holder to press on the LED so it will maintain thermal contact with the housing, and the DX optic holder could do that - with a bit of trimming, that is.

    The optic ended up being a little taller than the original, and caused the bezel to stand off a little, so I inserted an o-ring around the gap to maintain water resistance.


    Here is the measured output:

    The green is the measured output with the $1 optic, the original Ultra-5 is in red, and the 200L is in orange. I've included a Niterider 10W HID for reference. It does not have the hot spot of the NR, but it does give a good spread. And it's significantly better than the original.


    The beam shot does not really show the Moth-Man pattern of the $1 optic, as there is a darker spot right in the middle, and a cross pattern that is faintly visible. On singletrack you don't really notice this, but it is more apparent on smooth fire roads. The beam pattern is quite good for bar mounted singletrack use, not as ideal for fast fire roads, but very usable.

    Someday I'll try the Carclo optics - they need to be trimmed as well (or you could follow the method on the candlepower forum link, which uses the Carclo optic as is).

    The end result is a pretty bright light (430lm at 350mA/die - manufacture rated), significantly brighter than the original, and consuming a little less power (because the 2x2 MC-E Vf is lower than the original Luxeon-V). With a runtime of ~1:45hrs on full, thats a lot of light for 4 AA batteries.

  2. #2
    Spanish biker
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    Nice job!!!!!! what is the 1$ optic from DX?? link, please...

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  3. #3
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    Sku 1920: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1920

    OK, I lied, it was 5 for $5.23. With the 1 cent shipping, that actually works to $1.05 each. Now if you count duty, tax and brokerage fees, they are a lot more expensive....

  4. #4
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    What instrument do you use to collect the light ouput data that you have graphed?

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    What instrument do you use to collect the light ouput data that you have graphed?
    I've been using a photographic light meter - Sekonic L-328 with a flat incident attachment. I have a set distance and angles that I measure by hand. If I were doing a lot of these, I'd do it on an optics bench with an indexer.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsdoable
    I've been using a photographic light meter - Sekonic L-328 with a flat incident attachment. I have a set distance and angles that I measure by hand. If I were doing a lot of these, I'd do it on an optics bench with an indexer.
    Thanks. I'll ask a photographer friend if she has something similar. I want to try modifying some optics and it would be so much better to have real data rather than just appearance.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Thanks. I'll ask a photographer friend if she has something similar. I want to try modifying some optics and it would be so much better to have real data rather than just appearance.
    If you end up using a calibrated EV meter, PM me about the setup, I can tell you what I used, and if you use something similar, you should be able to compare them on the same graph.

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