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  1. #1
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    Modding the Bastid 900 for XM-L

    I've got a Bastid light sitting here. It works fine, but I think I could make it work better.
    What are your thoughts on modding it to take and XM-L?
    The driver is putting out like 2.4 amps I think, which would be way brighter with with the XM-L right?
    How hard could it be?
    What are your thoughts guys?

    I also have a 1400 MS light I was thinking about ripping apart......= )
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  2. #2
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    Ha I am doing just the same with a bastid. but it is not straight forward as the led will need lifting a tad I think.

    am only at the looking and planning stage at the moment
    was waiting for dark to test the reflector on an XML before I started surgery on the light

  3. #3
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    My XMLs are on the way for exactly that purpose... Haha

    Like trout says, it may be difficult to lift them. If it requires this, I'll probably ditch the reflector and replace with Regina. Won't look the best, but I just want light.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BKruahnndon
    Like trout says, it may be difficult to lift them.
    Not so difficult I already did it with MC-E on 21mm star. Star lift up by copper money (polished of course), around 1 - 1,5 mm thickness. MS-900 still alive and well focused.
    Sorry for my eNgLisH )

  5. #5
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    If the beam looks nicer it might be worth considering, but given the dubious quality of the bastid, I'd wonder if it was worth it.

    The thermal path from the LED to the outer case is pretty poor. You could probably improve that by adding a bunch of Artica Alumina epoxy to places, but good luck getting the thing apart again. Heat conductive silicone grease would also help, but I'm not sure it would stay in place, might slop around.

    There is no thermal regulation to speak of, so you run the risk of blowing up your XM-L. Not much you can do about that except switch to low when not riding.

    The driver uses under-specced components. Look for the original dissection of the bastid thread for specifics. You could at least replace the current sense resistors with something that can dissipate more power. Also if you changed the resistance to be a bit higher, you'd wind up with a light that was as bright and used 80% of the power.

    Mark
    Nimium est melior!

  6. #6
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    I agree, thermal path in bastid is very poor. But less chances to blown XM-L - it dissipate less thermal energy, because it is more efficient.
    Sorry for my eNgLisH )

  7. #7
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    Great minds think alike guys.

    Troutie, interested to hear your reports on the reflector. I'm sure you'll take beam shots with that new camera.

    Mark, I'll have a gander at the dissection thread before I rip mine apart.
    I seem to remember reading through it thoroughly when it first started and there were several things going on inside that would need attention.
    The sense resistors being under specd, and possibly something about thin wires.
    I think if the thermal path could be improved without too much hassle I could live with the rest of the issues for now.
    Possibly a driver swap?
    I have a couple 2.8a 7135 3 mode drivers.
    If I remember correctly, there is not alot of spare space inside the thing.
    I think it would be worth doing just for the fun of it.
    But I am torn, as it is a working light as it sits and I could always give it to a buddy.
    After building my 2x xg-g with reginas the bastid seems useless. It's like it's not even there when the xp-gs are running.

    EDIT: I don't think the 7135 boards would work without doing some tricky poormans modding.
    EDIT:EDIT Nevermind about the poormans setup. My mind was on a different build.
    Last edited by savagemann; 01-30-2011 at 09:38 AM.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zigger Suddenness
    But less chances to blown XM-L - it dissipate less thermal energy, because it is more efficient.
    Thats what I was thinking Zig.
    I do have some aluminum rod I could make some slugs to play around with.
    Also have some copper sheets in different thinkness.....hmmm
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    EDIT: I don't think the 7135 boards would work without doing some tricky poormans modding.
    In my situation, MS-900 has dead driver. I change P7 to MC-E in 2S2P mode, and connect to battery by poorman's 7135 setup with only 2 mechanically maded modes
    Sorry for my eNgLisH )

  10. #10
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    DX Bastid reflector on an XML @ 2.8 amps drive




    sadly no DX shot to compare it too .

    Pic is at the new mtbr setting 4 secs / F4 daylight WB
    the shot is darker than I perceived it and it was not too shabby a beam .

  11. #11
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    Awesome!!!!
    Thanx Troutie.
    Looks to have some pretty decent spill too.

    I just received my cutter order (which arrived to the USA in less than 9 days!!) and had 2 XM-L's in the package for a different project.
    Now I'm torn......do I put that on hold until my DX order ships and use one of the XM-L's for the Bastid mod, or stay on track with the project I had in mind....what to do.
    Also waiting on a KD order which already shipped, but who knows when it will get here. Their tracking page glitches on me when I try to access it.

    I may just have to get a couple more XM-L's from Led Supply and call it good......as I really want to do this Bastid mod.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    DX Bastid reflector on an XML @ 2.8 amps drive
    Can you hack it to fit a regina inside the DX reflector?
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
    A few Dynamo builds and some Small battery lights

  13. #13
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    the thought has crossed my mind and i have an xml kicking around. might be a good idea. would a 16mm round mcb be a problem?

    would alu be good enough for lifting the led?

  14. #14
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    Just got my mod done. It was easy and the result is more light with a bigger hotspot.

    Someone asked about putting a regina inside the reflector and that will absolutly work the only problem is gluing it to the original reflector i was thinkig about covering the inside of the original reflector wit masking tape and fill the gap with epoxy. That way you can drop in the regina when you feel like it and use the original reflector when thats more suitable

  15. #15
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    Interesting....subscribing

  16. #16
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    Siven,
    Do you have any pics of the insides?
    Beamshots?
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  17. #17
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    Are they plug and play with the Bastid driver?

  18. #18
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    yes they are plug and play but yo can drive them harder if you want

    pictures asked for beam shots only iphone pictures bounced from the wall but it gives a clue on what its like

    xml


    original


    front


    interior

  19. #19
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    About how much brighter would you say the XM-L is in this vs. the P7??

    10%? 20%? more??

  20. #20
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    hard to give percentages they say nothing to me unless you have a standardised messuring system without riding it i have a hard time telling how much better it gets but i have not been using my MS:s for a while because i think the original beam feels a bit weak. it doesnt throw to well and the spill feels like it is not enough on the trail so the extra brightness and bigger hotspot is something that i believe will make it more useful on the trails

  21. #21
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    So gotta link for them on cutter or ?
    "It looks flexy"

  22. #22
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    Simply switching the LED will not buy you much in terms of brightness. If you look at the datasheets, you'll see the lumen output of both LEDs is almost exactly the same at 2.4 amps. The XML is more efficient, so it'll produce that amount of light using less power. Runtime will improve, but brightness will be about the same. It may actually reduce brightness if the reflector is better optimized for the P7 vs the XML.

    You have to keep in mind that the Vf of the XML is lower than the P7. Since the power delivered to the LED is current * voltage, you'll actually reduce the power going to the LED by switching to an XML without driver modifications. Using real world measured Vfs for both LEDs.

    P7
    3.5 Vf * 2.4 amp = 8.4 watts

    XML
    3.1 Vf * 2.4 amp = 7.5 watts

    You'll need to change or modify the driver to up the drive current to 3 amps to see any noticeable improvement in brightness. Even that may not be worth it when you factor in the poor thermal path in the Magicshine light. If you look in the datasheet, it'll show you the percentage drop in lumens based on elevation of the junction temperature. Lumen output of both LEDs drop by 30% at max junction temperature. That's one of the reasons the MS900 lights doesn't put out anywhere close to 900 lumens.

  23. #23
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    What you are saying is that the p7 gives less light because it runs to hot at 8w and the xpg uses 1w less on the same current in mu mind this means it should not run as hot wich would make it perform better then the p7?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by siven
    What you are saying is that the p7 gives less light because it runs to hot at 8w and the xpg uses 1w less on the same current in mu mind this means it should not run as hot wich would make it perform better then the p7?
    I think he's saying that, if you run the XM-L harder (at 3A) in order to see an improvement in brightness over the P7, the poor thermal path of the MS head (and heating up of the LED) will reduce the efficiency of the XM-L to the point where it isn't any brighter than the P7 would be.

    Over 10% less power draw isn't to be sniffed at though..

  25. #25
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    10% less energy used means 10% less heat ,10% longer runtime And on top of that a better light pattern and while you have taken the bastard apart you might as well do some simple things to make the heat transfer better before reasembling it. To me that feels like its worth it. But i dont say its an optimal use of the led in any way

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