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Thread: Meet Nosey....

  1. #1
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    Meet Nosey....

    and the four jaw chuck.

    I broke the last one so time to make another, hopefuly a better and stronger one. I'll update as I go provided I don't mess it up but so far so good. Got the face plate done today including drilling and tapping for the silly little M2 screws.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-nosey-2-.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-button-hole.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-dsc02380.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-dsc02382.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Where's the freeking pictures?

    There they are... nice tidy work

    what leds are you stuffing in it?

  3. #3
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    ..smooth

    ..beautiful machine finish there yb, top job!!
    guess you gonna put a few fins on at some point?
    mind you it looks good as it is, smooth
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

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    Nice work YB! Looks very nice.
    P.S. I'm envious to all you CNC and lathe-owner-guys. Really (:
    P.P.S. Double Regina's??

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    Looks great. Looks fairly bullet proof right about now as well.

    XML's and Regina's anyone?

  6. #6
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    Thanks, should have said it's going to have XPGs, Reginas plus bFlex. That's if I can get it all out of the old housing.

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    nice design!! Did you take a 1.5" round, deck top and bottoms and lathe the front holes?

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    That looks great Yeti. Can't wait to see it finished.
    Wish I could fit a lathe and mill in my 2 bedroom apartment......= )
    For now I will have to settle for a dremel, hacksaw, files and adding this........
    http://www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-...ise-94276.html
    to my drill press.
    Now just need to figure out what cheap mill bits I can get away with, and wrap my head around what I can do with it.
    Time will tell.
    It looks great though. Good luck getting the old parts out of the broken head.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

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    Looks good! Is it going to get fins?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jsigone
    nice design!! Did you take a 1.5" round, deck top and bottoms and lathe the front holes?
    That's correct except I used 45mm Dia round bar, 1.5" is too close to size to allow for any mistakes.


    savagemann, I have a Taig micro lathe, you can almost fit it in a shoe box and I use it in my spare room. Great when you have no space. I also use a very tiny vertical slide on it for milling.

    Vancbiker, not too sure about fins yet but it may get some at the back near the bFlex compartment to save some weight as there is plenty of meat in that area.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    That looks great Yeti. Can't wait to see it finished.
    Wish I could fit a lathe and mill in my 2 bedroom apartment......= )
    For now I will have to settle for a dremel, hacksaw, files and adding this........
    http://www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-...ise-94276.html
    to my drill press.
    Now just need to figure out what cheap mill bits I can get away with, and wrap my head around what I can do with it.
    Time will tell.
    It looks great though. Good luck getting the old parts out of the broken head.
    Be very carefully using end mills in a drill press, the chuck is not designed for side force, i.e pushing into the side of the cutter.
    If your unlucky it can rip the chuck out and if it hits you chances are its going to hurt..

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Be very carefully using end mills in a drill press, the chuck is not designed for side force, i.e pushing into the side of the cutter.
    If your unlucky it can rip the chuck out and if it hits you chances are its going to hurt..
    Good call GD.
    Will most likely just be doing really light duty stuff, and go really slow. Making shallow cooling fins and light shaping of small parts.
    I plan on doing alot of plastic parts for mounts, lenses and remote switches.

    Yeti, any idea on when you will get it all finished up?
    The Taig stuff looks perfect for me. I'm gonna have to sell a bunch of junk I have sitting around and save up a bit.
    Anybody need some new red chris king bling BB and headset?......= )
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    Good call GD.
    Will most likely just be doing really light duty stuff, and go really slow. Making shallow cooling fins and light shaping of small parts.
    I plan on doing alot of plastic parts for mounts, lenses and remote switches.

    Yeti, any idea on when you will get it all finished up?
    The Taig stuff looks perfect for me. I'm gonna have to sell a bunch of junk I have sitting around and save up a bit.
    Anybody need some new red chris king bling BB and headset?......= )
    It's not too far off finished now, just need to decide on some final touches like cable entry point and what gland etc.

    I also started building lights with just a dremel, then got a drill press and used it as a lathe and a mill but it is dangerous and the work leaves a lot to be desired, it's also a good way to knacker the drill press but I learnt a lot doing things that way.
    Last edited by yetibetty; 01-18-2011 at 01:15 AM.

  14. #14
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    i forgot to ask...... why `Nosey`?
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

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    Quote Originally Posted by HEY HEY ITS HENDO
    i forgot to ask...... why `Nosey`?
    The wife named it (him) Nosey due to his blue nose. Don't let wives name your creations I think it looks like something from Toy Story with it's ears

    Milled the groove for the lexon today, got that cut and it fits well also removed some excess material from the inside.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-groove.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-lexon.jpg  


  16. #16
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    The more I look at this one Yeti, the more I am falling for this little bugger.
    Any luck getting the old guts out to put into the new head?
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    The more I look at this one Yeti, the more I am falling for this little bugger.
    Any luck getting the old guts out to put into the new head?
    savagemann, I've had great fun this morning trying to get the old bits out as I never intended to ever open the old housing I made the back an interferance fit, have to mill it away to get to the bFlex !!! Should be OK.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-dsc02392.jpg  


  18. #18
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    Very nice looking light . Good luck getting the old parts out.

    My wife call my lights "oh sh-t, not another one"

  19. #19
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    Yetti make sure you dust down the bflex really well and then go over it with a magnifying glass looking for minute filings BEFORE you power it back up.

    I killed a maxflex because or micro pieces of swarf(?) shorting out the board, expensive mistake

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Yetti make sure you dust down the bflex really well and then go over it with a magnifying glass looking for minute filings BEFORE you power it back up.
    that's called a great excuse to get a b2flex (just joking, honest)

    cool looking light yeti, can't wait to see if finished. Whenever I get jealous of the lathe and CNC crew, I just pretend to be part of the Ghetto aesthetic "yeah, I could do something awesome like that, but I'm keepin' it real w' da Dremel man". I'm going to start gluing random bits of crap onto my lights, just in case people don't get the message

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    Yeti
    I just wanted to add my voice. That is a beautiful light. Good show. Maybe I don't really need the $10,000 milling machine.

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    Thanks for the comments Peeps.

    I have managed to get the giblets out of the old light and they still work, also removed more from the Nosey, so I could put it together but I can't decide weather or not to add some fins.
    It's quite small so not much to play around with so more risk of a balls up but it could save a few grams and run a tiny bit cooler.

    What would you do?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-topnn.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-backnn.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-matchnn.jpg  


  23. #23
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    easiest option is fins running from front to back on the top and bottom...
    whats the width of the flat part on the top and bottom?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    easiest option is fins running from front to back on the top and bottom...
    + 1

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    The top and bottom flat bits are 26mm wide, problem is the bFlex socket has left the top and bottom walls too thin to do fins on the top/bottom at least behind the switch.

    Most of the excess is around the sides of the driver socket.

  26. #26
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    run 1 or two 3mm deep fins either side of the switch on the top, then for the ones inbetween dont run them all the way to the rear, so they stop just short of the driver cut out?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    run 1 or two 3mm deep fins either side of the switch on the top, then for the ones inbetween dont run them all the way to the rear, so they stop just short of the driver cut out?
    Yes, that's what I keep comming up with. It should shave off the weight of a cigerette paper. Just don't know if it's worth it.

  28. #28
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    Fins or no, that's gonna be a pretty light

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyatt79m
    Fins or no, that's gonna be a pretty light
    39 grams empty.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    Yes, that's what I keep comming up with. It should shave off the weight of a cigerette paper. Just don't know if it's worth it.
    It look pretty cool if you did..
    could also run two just from center on the sides..

    Doing the sides shouldnt be a problem as long as you dont mind not following the contor of the curve..

  31. #31
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    If it's as cold in the UK as it looks on the news do you need fins? Could be a housing like the exposure lights

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    It's always cold apart from the one week a year that we call summer (if we are lucky).
    I do like the look of it smooth, I just can't make my mind up

    I think I'll make the helmet mount today before I make a balls up.

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    Well since the bflex has a temp cutout you could always leave it smooth and see how she performs. If it cuts out, add some grooves.

    It certainly is looking good and at 40g you won't even feel it on your helmet

  34. #34
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    Yetti, may i suggest watching this video...then making some fins..
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unkIVvjZc9Y



    edit this ones pretty funny to
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGKHFFpADpM&NR=1

  35. #35
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    wow, 39g, that's pretty porky

    I'd cut some deep fins either side of the driver, if only because it would look cool. I'm pretty sure that 2x XP-G @1A will be fine as it is, given a modicum of airflow, and as brad says, you always have the temp sensing of the bflex to fall back on..

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    looks like you don't have much meat on the top and bottom, I'd run 1-1.5mm deep fins on the sides.

    But how many amps are you running this sucker? If you going to drive it to the max amps, I'd suggest the fins, if 1amp or under you should be fine without it. Mine hardly gets warm @ 1amp and standing around for 5mins or so but I do have a bit weight/material then your build (30grams more). But I have .250" heatsink pad between the LED stars and driver port. Overkill yes, but won't get hot anytime soon

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    Man, thats a tough decision.
    If it were me, I would leave it just as it is because I am pretty sure I would balls it up.
    Fins would look great though....and it looks like you get the machining skills to pull it off.
    If you are the least bit uncomfortable, I would leave it as is.
    It should perform great, and it looks great as it is.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  38. #38
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    Post it to me and ill do it on my mill for you..
    If it looks cool I might just say it went missing in the post

  39. #39
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    Absolutely beautiful looking light Yeti, such clean curved lines.

    It's a real shame that there isn't room for fins top and bottom because I'm picturing some round bottom finns, if only I could find that picture

    why not just fin the sides?

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    Quick update. Done some fins untill the 1.5mm cutter broke.

    No pics as it's a bit ugly

  41. #41
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    yeti where are you buying your cutters from?

  42. #42
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    I've found the HSS ones in small sizes and i mean under 4mm are utter crap..
    standard carbide is better but still breaks/shatters easily if you dont run it fast enough..
    I get my small cutters from here http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk...ools-c-16.html

    There very high quality, the pulsar K50 range are the ones to go for..I'm told they use a higher grade of carbide..nano grain carbide
    here's a 1.5mm http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk...er-p-5235.html

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    yeti where are you buying your cutters from?
    Emu, if your still located in Aus then "Hare and forbes" has a good selection of cutter etc. at very good prices and they can send out via post or courier.

    Yetti, small world mate, I was born and grew up in Orpington before moving to Aus. I still remember playing in sparrow wood as a kid.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    yeti where are you buying your cutters from?
    I get most of my good ones from an ebay seller called tony4cats he does solid carbide at a great price and good quality though may not much good to you on the other side of the world.
    I used a HSS job as it was the only 1.5mm I had and it broke, try to get solid carbide for alu

  45. #45
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    thanks for that, I've been trying to find something between my 2mm and 10mm and most of the ones on fleabay that the search returns seem to be in the UK. I will search for tony, hope he doesn't mind a dog lover

  46. #46
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    How about these guys
    http://www.virtual-village.com.au/cnc-bits

    edit nope there crap

  47. #47

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    How about these guys
    http://www.virtual-village.com.au/cnc-bits

    edit nope there crap
    LOL, that's where I got the first lot from. Thanks for the other links, I'll have a look when i get back home.

  49. #49
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    After spending a couple of days removing the broken mill cutter that had welded itself into the housing a new cutter arrived this morning.

    He now has a hairstyle. I think I preferred it smooth. I'll get it put together before I have any more brain waves.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-hair-do.jpg  


  50. #50
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    Nothing wrong with that mate

  51. #51
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    +1 for fins

  52. #52
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    Looks fintastic to me

  53. #53
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    It's looking great with the fins!!!!!
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  54. #54
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    Damn those lines are so straight and the edges so defined, clearly mill cutters work better when they are in mills

    Yeti I think its looking tops, well done. How much extra weight did you save?

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    Thanks Peeps.

    Emu, the weight saving was well worth the work as It saved a whole gram!!!!!!
    Now down to 38g but the fins might make me faster

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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    ....but the fins might make me faster
    Damn straight they do, just like speed holes in the bonnet of your car Homer can vouch for that.

    Great looking light by the way

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    Thanks Peeps.

    Emu, the weight saving was well worth the work as It saved a whole gram!!!!!!
    Now down to 38g but the fins might make me faster
    Damn that's light. best I could do was down to 100gm for the twin DX build I'm doing but that does have to be big enough to take the 26mm reflectors that are 22mm deep.

    Can't say it enough, really nice looking housing

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    Just had to get rid of the excess from around the driver. Time to put it together.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-morefins.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-morefins2.jpg  


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    looking really good yeti. Almost a shame to put the LEDs and driver in, given how light it is

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    wow Yetti, did you mangage to purchase that new helium impregnated alloy . That is one light little light.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad72
    wow Yetti, did you mangage to purchase that new helium impregnated alloy . That is one light little light.
    He's cheating, there's no back panel or screws for the front
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    but damn that is light.

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    ...... or LEDs, bFlex and wire . I bet it weighs just the same as the one it will replace @ 54g.
    It should be stronger though.

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    Finished

    Had time this weekend to get it finished. Poor old bFlex has been in 5 lights now so soldering wasn't too easy, or neat.

    It's put on a bit as the finished weight is now 51 grams.

    I have drilled and tapped a M6 hole for a bar mount as it's also a nice little bar light for the road.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-done1.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-done3.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-done4.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-done5.jpg  

    Last edited by yetibetty; 04-22-2011 at 09:19 PM.

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    That's a lovely job Yettibetty. You've obviously got the hang of that 4-jaw chuck on your lathe.

    51g is very light considering you've got the driver in there too. Shouldn't think you notice on your helmet? I bet if you made the front lens ring thingy a bit thinner you could get below 50g. Would make no practical difference but 49g sounds so much better than 51g (can you tell I work in marketing?)!

    Anyway, brilliant job

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    Thats a beauty Yetibetty

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    A little beauty!

    How have you attached the back? Threaded ... and screwed on, watchmaker style? Very neat with no screws showing ... anyway!

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    Thanks Peeps
    I'm happy with the 51 grams as I just wanted to beat the Lupine Piko @ 54 grams ( just for a challenge). It has plenty of meat on it still so could go lighter but I also want to use it as a walking / work light so want it strong.

    Bobblehat, the back is fitted in the same way as a watch back. I wanted the back as flat as possible so that I could use the helmet mount as a head band thingy too.

    The part that I am most pleased with is the switch as it works so much better than my last attempt and is nice and clicky and easy to find, even with winter gloves on. I will definitely be using that on future builds. I have pics of the switch parts if anyone is interested.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-jug.jpg  

    Last edited by yetibetty; 02-01-2011 at 08:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    The part that I am most pleased with is the switch as it works so much better than my last attempt and is nice and clicky and easy to find, even with winter gloves on. I will definitely be using that on future builds. I have pics of the switch parts if anyone is interested.
    Of course we are, you tease

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by JezV
    Of course we are, you tease
    OK Jez the switch is a 6mm square PCB mount clicky and the small alu ring is glued in at the end to hold it all in place and make it water proof. The silicone tail cap is 12mm from DX. The blue glow in the dark ones are smaller than the orange, black & green that they also sell.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-sw.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-sw1.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-sw2.jpg  

    Last edited by yetibetty; 02-01-2011 at 08:33 PM.

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    Oh clever. I didn't realise you were using one of those 'lil switches under that big button. I might borrow that idea!

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    Good Job Yetti...

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    Nightshots?

    Nothing, nothing?

    Are you still in own of this light?

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khrystyan27 View Post
    Nightshots?

    Nothing, nothing?

    Are you still in own of this light?
    Yes I still have it and use it a lot. Just noticed that a pic of the back has gone missing from post 63 so have posted it again along with a night shot.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Meet Nosey....-twin-regina-copy.jpg  

    Meet Nosey....-done2.jpg  

    Last edited by yetibetty; 07-15-2011 at 04:51 PM. Reason: 'cause I can't F'ing type

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    That beamshot is a great example of why, IMO, the Regina make the best beam around for the XPG! Hotspot for throw, enough spill for the close in bits, and a sharp cut-off to keep all the stuff you don't need to see anyway in the dark.

  75. #75
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    wow thats bright

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by con10der8 View Post
    wow thats bright
    It's actually not that bright, only 550 ish lumens.

    But as Vancbiker pointed out, the Regina's do a great job of putting the lumens in the right place. It's my favourite light so far as it requires so little juice.

    I will make another one soon.... Maybe get it down to 49 gr as it stays very cool as it is.
    Last edited by yetibetty; 07-15-2011 at 05:39 PM. Reason: because I have tooth ache and it helps me forget the pain.

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    realy nice!

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    Whooooa !!!

    Great output for 550lm...

    Hope we see more lights soon.

    Good luck mate !

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    Just wanted to chime in and say that's a work of art. I want one!

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    Thanks baymoe.

    I have done another since and it turned out nicer due to now having a proper mill.



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    Does this one still have 2 XP-Gs in there, or are they XM-Ls with an L-flex?

    The workmanship is at least on par with a Lupine Piko, the Mercedes of commercial lights.

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    Thanks Ofroad'bent, I wouldn't quite call it Lupine quality though.
    Yes still XP-Gs but S2 bin with a nicer(for me)2B tint, there is a pic on the beamshot thread. Next light will be XMLs.

    One of the hardest parts was trying to save weight and running out of exposure bar mount cleats so I made a few of them too.
    Iím not a weight weenie and am not too bothered how much a bar light weighs but I have had neck trouble that just wonít go away since the 90ís so try to keep the weight down for helmet use.







    Last edited by yetibetty; 12-15-2011 at 07:40 PM.

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    Nicely done. I assume the rear cover plate is glued into place once the electronics are in place? Just an idea, would it make sense to create a threaded plate with o-ring on your next run?

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by baymoe View Post
    Nicely done. I assume the rear cover plate is glued into place once the electronics are in place? Just an idea, would it make sense to create a threaded plate with o-ring on your next run?
    The back is an interference fit so no glue is used. The back is a little bigger than the bore in the body so getting the body hot and putting the back in the fridge will let you push the two together. Once they are both at the same temp they almost become one. I have no intention of opening it up. I like your idea of a screw in back but I canít do threading on my lathe. If I could I would

    On my next run? It takes what feels like years to do one. My next build will be huge to give my poor old eyes a rest. Fed up with tiny little M2 srews and such.
    Last edited by yetibetty; 12-15-2011 at 09:18 PM.

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    That's a great idea. Most interesting and reminds me of the days when I dismantled Inova lights the via freezing of water inside the light cylinder.

    Any intentions of producing a low run for those interested?

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    No afraid not. I would go mentally disturbed if I ever had to make one more of these. They are just too small and fiddly to be done more than a couple of times on a manual mill and lathe.

    I have an idea going round in my head for a much smaller light that I got in part looking at Vancbiker's lights but I must resist. I know if I start that one it will drive me nuts.

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    Fair enough. It must have been a ton of work.

    Just googled the light you speak of. That is extremely small! Almost seems like it lack the mass to adequately dissipate heat. Regardless, look forward to what you create next.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty View Post
    Thanks Ofroad'bent, I wouldn't quite call it Lupine quality though.

    One of the hardest parts was trying to save weight and running out of exposure bar mount cleats so I made a few of them too.
    Iím not a weight weenie and am not too bothered how much a bar light weighs but I have had neck trouble that just wonít go away since the 90ís so try to keep the weight down for helmet use.
    I hear you brother. My neck is so bad that I ride (and race) recumbents off-road, hence the moniker. I couldn't hold a TT tuck on road for 5 seconds. On a 'bent it's more important to have decent helmet light as I have to throw the bars around more than you guys, which makes a bar light less useful.

    I have to keep it very light too. I found that it's actually better for me to have a little battery on the back of the helmet counterbalancing the light, than to have it in my pocket on long races, especially multi-day.

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