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  1. #1
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    Marwi Bullet - XML - 2800ma Multi Mode driver

    I thought I would show the parts combo/solution that I came up with on the Marwi Bullet housings.

    Parts:
    Marwi bullet housing
    Judco Flat SPST latching switch
    XML T6 star
    Custom machined heat sink
    Custom machined aluminum reflector

    First a new heat sink was needed. The nice part about the XML is it is not as tall as a P7 and so the heat sink does not have to sit way back in the angled part of the housing. The heat sink sides are straight, which is way easier to cut on a CNC machine.
    The heat sink is pressed in as far as it will go in the straight walled section. I still needed a bit more depth and so I cut a .0625" round section in the center of the .125" thick heat sink. The recessed hole is a bit larger than the XML because the LED is not in the exact center of the star, so you need a bit of wiggle room.
    The heat sink also has a notch so the wires can pass from front to the back where the driver is. No extra steps needed to drill tiny wire holes. Let the CNC machine do that for you

    The heat sink is glued in place using Artic Alumina thermal expoxy. It is pressed into the housing, but the housings are not a perfect circle and things expand when they get hot so, the thermal adhesive is needed, IMO.







    The switch and driver sit behind the heat sink and there is plenty of room because the heat sink is so far forward in the housing. For extra security against something shorting, I put a couple small pieces of electrical tape on both sides of the driver board. The driver is the 2800ma multi mode driver set to star #3, which is low-medium-high.
    See this post for more info on the driver board.
    2800ma AMC7135 multi mode driver boards

    The power cord enters through a grommet and has a wire tie around it to keep it secure. I added a few drops of super thick glue on the inside of the grommet to keep the cord from turning.




    And here it is all assembled.





    The red housing is pretty, but I only have two of those. and so I kept them for me. I have 100's of black and silver housings.

    Here's video of the reflector being machined on my CNC machine
    Machining a XML Reflector - YouTube

  2. #2
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    a very tidy job El34. I'm sure a lot of riders with those style Marwi bodies will be happy bunnies now

    How does it do for cooling at mtb speeds?

  3. #3
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    Have not taken it out on MTB yet
    Did a road ride last night (last wednesday night road ride of this season)

    Will be taking it off road soon

    I don't see any problems, it's cold out and the light shell stays just under 99 F on the bench with a small fan cooling it.

    It's really easy to tap the switch and change light modes

    Hope to get some beam shots with my Bell shaped P7's as a comparison tonight

  4. #4
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    Ah..........carp, it's raining and cold here
    No beam shots tonight, but there is always beer.

    BTW, I am thinking I could have the heat sinks made at a machine shop, but the center milled out area makes it hard to do on anything but a CNC machine.

    If I reduce the thickness to .062" and simplify the shape to a flat disc, I could have these things done on a Flojet for cheap. A Flojet can cut a big sheet of these out in no time with no holding tabs and the edges would be very clean. (I am hoping it can anyway)

    The back wall is .062" as it is right now. (The bottom of the bowl part that the XML is sitting on)

  5. #5
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    Ok, put your beer down and get out the camera

    You don't have a pic showing how deep the insert is seated inside the housing. A pick with the rear switch cap removed where the notch in the housing in would be nice to see. We might be able to give you some ideas if we could see that

  6. #6
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    I knew you'd come up with a slick design.

    So if you beveled the back edge to go the same depth into the tail as the depth of the milled out center would that do it? Can a flow jet bevel? I suspect not, but an idea.

    BrianMc

  7. #7
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    Im building a light similar to this , XML t6 with the same driver with star #3 grounded, but im using your remote mount Judco SPST Off-On switch and i cant seem to get the driver to change modes correctly. I switch it on, flutter the switch to change modes and the emitter flickers really dim for a half a second and goes out. flutter again and it repeats this several times until finally goes back to original mode(high?) as when it was initially turned on.

    any help would be appreciated! thanks!


    (first post btw)

  8. #8
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    You don't have a pic showing how deep the insert is seated inside the housing
    It's the same as yours. The slug goes as far back as it can go until it reaches the transition. I'll pop the housing apart and take a pic when I get to the shop.

    So if you beveled the back edge
    I already did that and it makes the slugs way more complicated and very slow to machine on the CNC. A straight sided slug can also be press fitted if you get the diameter just right. The straight sided slug gived you more room out back for the driver.

    I switch it on, flutter the switch to change modes and the emitter flickers really dim for a half a second and goes out
    Hmmm, hard for me to say without seeing your wiring job up close. 3 of the wire leads are easy to solder but the LED- is a *****.
    They need to come up with a larger solder pad for LED-.
    I am using the spring pad for Battery + and LED+.
    I am using Star#1 for the Battery - coming from the switch.
    Are you interupting Battery- to do the switching?

  9. #9
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    I did not take apart the pretty red one, but here's the first housing that I tried a straight sided slug on.

    This slug had wires holes through the firewall. The new slugs have the small half moon wire hole.

    You can just see the back edge of the slug.
    This is where the straight sided walls of the housing ends and the cone shape begins.

    The driver board is sitting on a 1/32" piece of garolite. I thought I would try that as an insulator to keep the heat of the slug from toasting the chips on the driver board.

    I am going to be cutting a thinner slug today so that I do not have to make that recessed area for the XML. I'll take pics of that slug.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Marwi Bullet - XML - 2800ma Multi Mode driver-img_6621.jpg  


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34 View Post
    I am going to be cutting a thinner slug today so that I do not have to make that recessed area for the XML. I'll take pics of that slug.
    Won't a thinner slug give you issues with absorbing and/or dispersing the heat to the light housing?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34 View Post
    I already did that and it makes the slugs way more complicated and very slow to machine on the CNC. A straight sided slug can also be press fitted if you get the diameter just right. The straight sided slug gived you more room out back for the driver.
    Sorry, I should have said chamfer. Just enough to move the disk back the same amount as the depth of the center milled area. However, thinking about it more, if the thinner slug moves enough heat well enough into the body, then simpler is better.

    BrianMc

  12. #12
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    Won't a thinner slug give you issues with absorbing and/or dispersing the heat to the light housing?
    .062 inches is actually thicker than it sounds.
    The Old Marwi heat sink was thinner than that and it worked just fine.

    If the .062 slug is too thin then I could always go back to plan A and have them cut on a CNC machine. Or have a second slug made that has a hole in the center and then just sandwich the two slugs together to get a thicker slug surface at the out walls.

    Not sure I can find a shop with a Flojet anywho.
    The problem with using a CNC machine is that each slug has to have holding tabs. You then have to cut the slugs from the sheet and remove the holding tabs.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34 View Post
    If I reduce the thickness to .062" and simplify the shape to a flat disc, I could have these things done on a Flojet for cheap. A Flojet can cut a big sheet of these out in no time with no holding tabs and the edges would be very clean. (I am hoping it can anyway)
    A Flojet is waterjet cutting and it is not as precise as a cnc mill. I would not bank on a Flojet accurately cutting your discs close enough in tolerance to press fit them in the housings. They may nail the size 1 time, but the next time they may not. I would check with a shop that has a cnc lathe. If you did not care about the finish on the driver side, a cnc lathe could chuck up a long length of 1.375" diameter aluminum and turn the outside diameter, face the end, and then use a cutoff tool to take the slug off. The back side would have a little knob left on it that you might have to touch to a belt sander? I have a local cnc shop that can make my double cupped inserts for pretty cheap and that includes the wire holes, the tapped holes for the star, and the side mounting hole (I have to manually tap that hole since this shop does not have 2 live heads to do this).

  14. #14
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    I always forget about using a lathe.
    A lathe could cut the recess in the front no problem.
    The lathe could not do my half moon wire hole, but I can just drill one hole for both wires.

    The shop that made the Bell housing heat sinks used a CNC lathe to make those

    I'll have to call and see how much they would charge.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34 View Post
    I always forget about using a lathe.
    A lathe could cut the recess in the front no problem.
    The lathe could not do my half moon wire hole, but I can just drill one hole for both wires.

    The shop that made the Bell housing heat sinks used a CNC lathe to make those

    I'll have to call and see how much they would charge.
    E-mail me when you find out if you would. We can compare/share notes on costs for our inserts. I'm simply curious what the cost of a simple insert like yours would be compared to a bit more complicated insert like mine. I could/would never make mine manually for what they would charge me, regardless.

  16. #16
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    I have a call into the shop, got voicemail
    Waiting for a call back

  17. #17
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    I'm using the LED + and - leads that came on the board and I'm conneting battery + to the spring and battery - through the switch to the outer - ring on the board. Yes I'm dissrupting the ground to the board. Do I need to change the battery - to star 1?

  18. #18
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    Do I need to change the battery - to star 1?
    No, star one is just a nice big fat pad compared to the outer ring
    Star 1 is the same as the outer ring

    Sounds like you have it wired correctly
    I would use a magnifying glass and see if there are any solder or wire shorts
    Is this a Kaidoman board or is it different in any way?

  19. #19
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    its the one from shiningbeam

    alright, I'll look everything over.

    do you think it could be a faulty board? Ive got another one I could test

  20. #20
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    do you think it could be a faulty board
    The SB one comes with a jumper on it already right?

    Does it do that when you first turn it on?
    It should cause it's the same thing as tapping the switch.

    It may be faulty if you are sure everything is wired correctly and there are no solder blob, wire hairs shorts.

  21. #21
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    no it did not come with a jumper installed. First I tried it as it came with no jumper with the trace conneting star 1 to the outer ring and it performed like this. then I cut the trace to star 1 and used a tiny solder blob to connect star 3 to the outer ground ring and nothing changed.

    yes it does this when first initially turned on sometimes

  22. #22
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    Star 1 on the KM boards does not do anything.

    It's just another spot you can use to solder a Battery - wire.
    Sounds like there is something wrong with the board to me.

    Same TINY13A chip as KM boards?

  23. #23
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    yes same TINY13A chip

  24. #24
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    I machined a few reflectors today to dial in the sloped top piece that sits on the XML

    I had to slope the XML end because it was real close to the 6-XML solder contacts.
    The other end had to be wider or else I would be cutting through the inner wall of the reflector.

    Here's a video of my CNC machine cutting down a reflector
    I speeded it up double time so the video was not so long
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuDW4LDTb8A

    I cut the slope sort of course, in four passes and then quickly clean it up on my lathe.
    I also Chamfer the rim on the lathe
    I do the lathe clean up stuff while a reflector is being machined in the CNC.

    Here's what the slope looks like

  25. #25
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    ^ looks impressive!

    its a faulty board, replaced with other board and works flawless

    thanks for your help!

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