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  1. #1
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    Maglite Triple Cree

    I just finished my latest light. It's a triple Cree C cell Maglite. I got a gunmetal grey body and then outfitted it with the following; Heatsink from Sandwich Shoppe,Triple lens from Cutter(25 degree PL 35325NK),Buck puck from LED supply(1000 ma),Q5 Cree's from Deal Extreme, mount from an old Nightrider, cables and connectors from Batteryspace.Batteries are a pack I made with Ansmann 2850mah AA-gives about 3 hours burn time.Battery bag from old Nightrider lead acid pack.
    I had to do some minor modding, I cut down the battery tube on the light just short enough to give me some room to put the buck puck in the body(2 inches?).
    I then epoxied the stubby battery body into the back of the light head after roughing up both surfaces.The only other fabrication was the way the light mount attaches to the body. I cut a piece of square tubing and traced the shape of the body onto the side and ground it to fit in profile.What I was left with was a 3 sided mount in the shape of a "U". I then filled the inside of the remains of the tubing with epoxy putty and the epoxy actually will not release the light after much prying.
    The rest is pretty straight forward.I was very nervous about having potentially mounted the Cree's incorrectly(together touching in a circle) but with the new triple lens I lucked out and it all fit.
    Fancier than my "achesalot" light but similar beam patterns and brightness.The 25 degree lens give some nice fill but still has some good throw. Tree's are about 40 feet away.
    Eric S






  2. #2
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    Hi there,
    How did you mount the led's in the head? Any extra heat sinking?Pic would be great as I don't have a maglite handy to look at...
    cheers,
    dsut4392

  3. #3
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    I got a heatsink from the Sandwich shoppe.It's thermal pasted at all contact areas in the head and then heatsink is screwed into the head.
    There is already an indent made in the heatsink to locate the LED's but they're really for bare emitters.Because I'm using "batwing" emitters I mounted mine on the the surrounding 'higher' bits of aluminum and then AA'd them on.
    I believe there is enough mass in the heatsink and light housing to not worry about overheating. I've run it on the bench for a while and the light only gets warm. I ride in cold temps all winter and don't worry about heat build up because I'm always moving through cold air.I could mount additional heatsinks externally or machine fins into the light body like others have done but I don't think it's all that necessary.
    You could also cut a 3/16" disc of aluminum and then AA or screw it into the light head,It would be better to back this piece with yet another smaller diameter piece that would fit deeper into the housing and add more thermal mass to the heatsink. You need to keep tight tolerances in the heatsinks to help with thermal transfer.Large gaps are not good.

    Eric S


  4. #4
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    Very nice Eric, that's just what I needed to know ... it'll all fit into a "C" head as well as "D" heads, like Swallow did!

    Are you using the original Mag-lite plastic cover lens, does it handle the heat OK or does the plastic get very hot on the bench?

    Thanks, Bob.

  5. #5
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    I've done only one ride on it and had to cure some teething problems. I had to epoxy the Nightrider mount to the bottom of housing I made and I had to fix a bad Tamiya connector.I've run it on the bench as I've stated but it doesn't get more than warm to the touch.
    I am using the original lens cover from the light to help hold the Khatod lens in place, I'm not sure how much light I'm loosing but I'll try it without it soon. It does help seal it from water intrusion-not that I ride in the rain...

    Eric S

  6. #6
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    Eric, NICE job on a nice looking light!
    Quote Originally Posted by joebreez
    I just finished my latest light. ...
    I had to do some minor modding, I cut down the battery tube on the light just short enough to give me some room to put the buck puck in the body(2 inches?).
    I then epoxied the stubby battery body into the back of the light head after roughing up both surfaces.
    This isn't clear to me, especially the part where you epoxied the stubby battery body. I think I see a cut line in this photo but on my mag light the body is pretty thin tube that I would think impossible to epoxy end to end due to the lack of surface area. I thought about epoxying some thin aluminum strips to the inside of the tube, then sliding them together so there would be epoxy on the ends of the tubes and a little structure on the inside.

    Could you explain or illustrate that detail a little better?

    Quote Originally Posted by joebreez
    The only other fabrication was the way the light mount attaches to the body. I cut a piece of square tubing and traced the shape of the body onto the side and ground it to fit in profile.What I was left with was a 3 sided mount in the shape of a "U". I then filled the inside of the remains of the tubing with epoxy putty and the epoxy actually will not release the light after much prying.
    This was pretty slick and looks nice and gives all kinds of mounting options.
    What's the cheapest source for C or D Maglights?

  7. #7
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    The way to epoxy both halves together is;
    Unscrew the battery tube out of the back of the head unit. You'll now see threads on the inside of the head unit. Decide how long you need the battery tube to be, then add about 3/8" to the length.That extra length will slide UP TO the threaded area in the back of the head unit. BEFORE you glue you need to rough up both the inside of the head unit and the outside of the battery tube where it will take epoxy. I use a Dremel to do this, it isn't seen and the rougher the better. Make sure you don't grind wider than you need! Use masking tape to mark it and protect it.
    Epoxy both inside and outside pieces to ensure proper adhesion. Slide together and rotate a bit to make sure the parts are coated. Make sure the tube is inserted all the way.
    Wipe off any excess glue. Let sit overnight on end.
    You can now unscrew the tail cap and do any electrics you need to do.
    I got the unit at the Depot for about $15.
    I had an old NR mount that I was planning on using but I'm sure there were other good ways of doing this. I didn't need to bolt the 2 pieces together but I hate doing things half a*&ed. I drilled through the mount and the housing and used a self tapping screw.
    Good luck, Eric S

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