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  1. #1
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    Magic shine on 12 volt

    I just bought a car that I am turning into a rally car. and I have 2 magicshine 808's (I think, they're the "900" lumen ones). Anyway from what I remember the batteries were aroughly 8.8 volt. I am wondering if it would be bad for the LEDs to run on a 12 volt car system. Or, if there is anything special I should consider if I were to mount these as fog lights. They would make perfect fog lights, and I am figuring this wont work but it would be cool if it did, and I figure this would be the forum to ask.

    Thanks
    Life is all about knowing how to be lucky

  2. #2
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    Probably you'll burn Magicshine's driver @ 12v.

  3. #3
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    I kind of figured something like that (without knowing all the sciency details). Thanks.
    Life is all about knowing how to be lucky

  4. #4
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    if you feel up to making your own, Quazzle's triple LED boards are an awesome turn-key car light solution - they run to ~$80 inc. optic and shipping, plus I think he sells housings too. I've often been tempted to build a couple of LED spots for my car as the standard headlights are so thoroughly useless

  5. #5
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    Here is an alternative from fleabay:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-1800Lm-LED-HI...14740898011887
    2 * four XPGs light, designed for 12v (:

  6. #6
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    for MS voltage,
    probably has a 10V cap in it.
    does run on 7.2V , 8.4V , 9.6V nimh
    car from alternator has more like 13.8V average.
    for rally, take a look at baya , vision-x , magna lights.
    oh back to question, no MS won't run of car battery / alternator,
    at least not for long.
    If you have to, could probably make you an adapter. mtbl.robs-x.com
    but these lights are not rally lights.

  7. #7
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    I've run an MS 900 at 12V (not mine) it works fine but gets hot quickly.

  8. #8
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    hmm 12V,
    yeah should work, for short time, alternators have more like 14V+,
    and old heads, don't have thermal protection ....

  9. #9
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    For automotive use you need a driver that has a) reverse polarity protection and b) designed to withstand at least 40V of spikes & load dumps etc.

    Your standard LED driver will not last long in an automotive environment and if you are relying on those lights in any way, spend the money and get something that is designed to do the job.

    I've designed automotive spec'd custom LED drivers and you do need to spend the money on appropriately rated components (50V minimum is my design criteria).

    cheers,
    george.

  10. #10
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    I just realised that the Quazzle boards are rated for 6-9V input, so they're no good (he might have other options on his site though, I remember pics of a car with LED lamps there)

    so, George, any of your drivers (like the H6flex) even remotely suitable for this application?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet

    so, George, any of your drivers (like the H6flex) even remotely suitable for this application?
    The h6cc is rated to 24V max input as is the h6flex. I'd not consider either 'rugged' enough for automotive use since they use a FET for polarity protection and a big spike can take out the gate on them.

    I do a custom version of the h6cc that use a diode for polarity protection and uses 50V rated input caps versus 25V rated.

    The switcher IC is rated to >80V. The diodes are rated to 100V. The power/switcher FET is rated to 100V. So, the weak point on the h6cc is the reverse polarity FET and the input caps (both rated to 25V max).

    So, short answer is no, I don't consider any of my drivers (other than the old CC1W/5W, the hyperboost and the hyperbuck) that I sell, as automotive rugged. Note, I'm an engineer and thus prefer to err on the conservative side when it comes to my designs.

    cheers,
    george
    Last edited by georges80; 03-30-2011 at 04:18 PM.

  12. #12
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    thanks George, I'll probably put this waaaay on the back burner for now.

    Out of interest, what are the causes of those large spikes? Automotive (eg from the alternator) or external (lightning strikes?!)?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    thanks George, I'll probably put this waaaay on the back burner for now.

    Out of interest, what are the causes of those large spikes? Automotive (eg from the alternator) or external (lightning strikes?!)?
    Well, consider some of the high current draw mechanisms that are in a car....

    Starter motor that can pull 300A+ (imagine the inductive spikes when that thing is
    powered off)....

    Airconditioner magnetic clutch (big spikes on powering off/cycling)....

    Power windows, power seats....

    Fuel injection system...

    And the list goes on and on ...

    cheers,
    george.

  14. #14
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    I'm using these for some interior lighting mods in my car............

    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/mr16-1-...0v-input-13557

    Toyed around with the idea of making some fog/driving lights with them as well.

    What say you?
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    I'm using these for some interior lighting mods in my car............

    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/mr16-1-...0v-input-13557

    Toyed around with the idea of making some fog/driving lights with them as well.

    What say you?
    I'm sure that driver is worth every penny you pay for it... Though at least it has a bridge on the input so it won't care about polarity and is thus essentially protected from reverse polarity.

    Electro caps (especially cheap junk) don't like heat - your car will get HOT in summer - unless you live in the frozen wastelands.... Anyhow, I'm sure that the quality is right up there with most of the other DX stuff.... It will likely work just fine - for how long, well, only you'll be able to determine.

    cheers,
    george.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by georges80
    Anyhow, I'm sure that the quality is right up there with most of the other DX stuff.... It will likely work just fine - for how long, well, only you'll be able to determine.

    cheers,
    george.
    Yep, which is why I would only use these for some play around mods, like my dome lights.
    Possibly some aux lights as well.

    As for my bike lights, which I need reliability and performance, I use taskled drivers.

    Have you ever thought about making some of the automotive products again George?
    I was looking through your archives, and saw some really cool stuff.

    Sorry to the OP this is getting off topic about the MS lights.......but it is related.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    Have you ever thought about making some of the automotive products again George?
    I was looking through your archives, and saw some really cool stuff.

    Sorry to the OP this is getting off topic about the MS lights.......but it is related.
    I've got a couple of customs designs that I still ship, but nothing for "general sale". It was never a big enough market for me to continue to make automotive drivers.

    The added expense and tradeoffs (e.g. schottky diode versus FET voltage drop for polarity protection) would not be something 'good' in a portable application where every fraction of a volt is important. i.e. I'd have to have drivers designed for automotive use and also designed (optimised) for portable use and I've decided to focus on the later.

    Funny thing is that all the TaskLED stuff only started originally because I wanted to put LEDs into the domes of my land cruiser so the kids (much younger then) wouldn't drain the battery when fiddling with the overhead lighting on camping trips etc.

    cheers,
    george.

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