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  1. #1
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    Lens Adapter Light

    Hi all, I would like to share my latest DIY light which Ive just finished and uses two photographic lens adapters glued together as the housing and filters on either side to seal it up. The lens adapters I found on ebay, for about $7 each (including delivered from Hong Kong). One of the males threads of the housing is machined or dremeled out to allow the other to fit in it. The two lens adapters are then glued together to make the housing which is about 46mm long and 36mm internal diameter. A standard 37mm UV filter is the front lens also sourced from ebay, and the rear is the same but with the glass removed and a round aluminium disk made to fit. The optics can be interchanged by unscrewing the front lens and simply swapping it between a spot and a medium. My build uses a Cute triple optic, XPG triple and a bflex UIB2 running up to 1amp. Total weight 108grams plus another 20grams for the bar clamp. Haven't taken it for a ride yet but will very soon.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lens Adapter Light-pa.jpg  

    Lens Adapter Light-pb.jpg  

    Lens Adapter Light-pc.jpg  

    Lens Adapter Light-pd.jpg  


  2. #2
    what a joke
    Reputation: ozlongboarder's Avatar
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    Great idea! How does the housing attach to the cradle?
    blah blah blah

  3. #3
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    That is a beautiful light. Ingenious. Is the red led a low battery warning?

  4. #4
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    Very smooth.....I thought about using camera lens parts a while back, only to find that nearly everything is made of plastic these days. I obviously didn't look hard enough.

    Well done

  5. #5
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    Simply elegant. Nice home for the Cute triple. Nice placement of the Status LED from the Bflex (it reports several things).

  6. #6
    help with the zip please
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    fantastic.

  7. #7
    more carbon=more awesome
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    Looks great!
    Can you tell me about the switch? It looks like a momentary switch available here in NZ, and I was planning to use one in my build. My research suggested it wasn't able to handle the 1000ma current. Is yours handling that much? Is it a normally on switch, or does it push on/push off? Etc etc.... Anything you can tell me would be really helpful.

    b.
    Posting on the basis that ignorance shared is ignorance doubled.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the feedback. To answer a few questions raised:-
    - Cradle is glued to the housing. I used araldite as it is super strong.
    - Red led is the low battery voltage.
    - The switch is a momentary, apparently IP67 rated, so very water proof. The switch never actually runs at 1amp, but used just to control on/off and high low flashing facility of the driver. The driver does all the work so the switch dosen't see the current that passes through to the main leds. If you go to the Cutter website and look up the manual of the driver it will probaly explain how it works much better than I can. The switch is from Jaycar Electronics rated at 125mA and costs about $5.

  9. #9
    Spanish biker
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    Hi, super nice, could you put any link of ebay when sell the housing how the your?

    Greeting - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by msxtr
    Hi, super nice, could you put any link of ebay when sell the housing how the your?
    + 1. The idea is GREAT

  11. #11
    more carbon=more awesome
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    Quote Originally Posted by apostolos
    Thanks for the feedback. To answer a few questions raised:-
    - Cradle is glued to the housing. I used araldite as it is super strong.
    - Red led is the low battery voltage.
    - The switch is a momentary, apparently IP67 rated, so very water proof. The switch never actually runs at 1amp, but used just to control on/off and high low flashing facility of the driver. The driver does all the work so the switch dosen't see the current that passes through to the main leds. If you go to the Cutter website and look up the manual of the driver it will probaly explain how it works much better than I can. The switch is from Jaycar Electronics rated at 125mA and costs about $5.
    Thanks for the info on the switch. Looks like it isn't suitable for my needs.

    About the araldite: Have you considered what might happen if the light gets hot? I frequently use heat to break araldite, so I'm just wondering if there is a slight risk there. Obviously if your design is shedding enough heat then there shouldn't be a problem.

    b.
    Posting on the basis that ignorance shared is ignorance doubled.

  12. #12
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    +1 on bshallard's question about the araldite.

    Something I don't understand, but you might have already thought of a snag I can't see ...... given that the tubes have a male thread at one end and a female thread at the other, why not just screw 2 together?

    Also, since the filters you use also have male and female threads it should still be possible to "cap" both ends with filter(holders) ... even if you just want to turn down the unused male thread at the back end for neatness.

    I have mentioned the use of photographic filters before as reflector/lens protection but it seems it's a little bit of an unknown factor heatwise. Cheap enough to try anyhow! Just think of the potential for slight adjustment of colour temp of the beam .... albeit droping a little output through filtration ...... don't like that cold blue tint...... screw an 81B on the front ........ etc etc!

  13. #13
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    msxtr - To find these lens adapters on ebay, just do a worldwide search on '37mm lens adapter sony w1' and you will find various ebay sellers selling the same product for about $7, some including free delivery. The pictures on ebay do not always 'exactly' match the housings as some ebay pictures show an adapter with a 'straight' external appearance but when they arrived they have a step at the base for the male threaded section as per mine.

    Araldite??? good point and never thought of that. Ive had the light on the bench operating at 1 amp for about 8 minutes and it reached about 45 degrees; feels very warm but not hot so you can't hold it. After 8 minutes the over temperature point which is set at 70C currently turns down the power to low, so I expect the araldite to hold OK at that temperature. On the bike it would not normally go anywhere near that. If it did fail, I would probaly just use some M3 bolts on each cradle arm instead with nuts on the inside. By the way the housings are glued together with araldite also ....mmmm?

    Bobblehat - I was hoping it was going to be as easy as screwing adapters together when I came across these but allas it was not to be. The male thread is whats called a 36.5mm thread with the filter side 37mm. The fact that 37mm filters were very easily avaliable, cheap and made good end caps for the housing meant going the way I did. I don't have a lathe so can't do anything fancy on that side. I was able to pull a favour with a mate at work who machined up a few heat sinks and trimmed one of the housings as shown in the photos above. The original housing which is the light pictured was made up using a dremel. As for the different colour filters colour I like the idea immensly to try and warm up the colour a bit. Thanks for the tip.

    Cheers apostolos

  14. #14
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    Msxtr: the adapters are also available from dealextreme for about $4 each, and the lenses for $5.

    Tim

  15. #15
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    Thanks Apostolos ... I see the problem!

    Following on from OP's original and novel idea, there are photographic macro extension tubes available with identical threaded ends (1 male, 1 female) ..... 39mm and 42mm are (were!) common and cheap, as are matching filters. Other sizes are available!

    I wonder if there are other possiblities other than altering colour tint by using photographic filters ...... diffusion (soft focus) filters, diopter lenses to alter beam width and maybe even split field filters for some special beam effects .... worth a thought!

  16. #16
    bmn
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    Looks good, very neat. Do you have some pictures of the slug the LED attaches to and how it sits in the body of your light?

  17. #17
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    Apostolos....A very novel and ingenuous idea. I assume these are made out of aluminum?
    The build/mod is nice looking and clean, almost looks commercial. Well done.

    Now about the heat-sink. Any photos showing how it interfaces with the outer casing?

  18. #18
    PRETENDURO
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    Surely you already sent one to Felipe?
    QUOTE from MTBR.COM: You have given Brewtality too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.

  19. #19
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    More show and tell

    A couple of extra photos on some blanks to try and expain:-
    Photo 1 - Centre lens adapter shows lens adapter complete with inner lip. Lens adapter to the right has had its inner lip machined or dremeled off to allow a male to female fit.
    Photo 2 - left to right, heat sink (7mm thick), front or led section of housing, and then rear or driver section of housing. Housings are glued together. Heat sink is pushed into front section and rests up against the inner lip of front housing.
    Photo 3 - Three M3 bolts with washers clamp up the heat sink against to rear side of the inner lip. Heat sink compound is used to enhance heat transfer.
    Photo 4 - Shows leds screwed onto heat sink again using heat sink compound.

    Everything can be disassembed if need be, but would be messy with the heats sink coupound. And yes everything is aluminium.

    Cheers apostolos
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lens Adapter Light-pe.jpg  

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    Lens Adapter Light-ph.jpg  


  20. #20
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    Any Beam Shots yet? Is there much difference between the spot and medium optics?

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