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  1. #1
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    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)

    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-20052012560.jpgOk im new to this so go easy, I have designed and created my own bike lights with a budget of 100 which i had no change from.

    It is a two LED design with one spot lens and one wide angle lens. On paper the max lumens is 1800 i have no idea how to test this but it is pretty bright (couple of blind spots after testing have been experienced).

    Right time for a little bit of detail and pictures.
    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-light1.jpg

    This is a picture of all the components lined up ready for assembly. The parts list is as follows:-

    5- Mode LED Driver for Cree MC-E/SSC P7 Emitters 7.4V

    SSC P7 LED Light Lamp Bulb White 900 Lumens 10W DIY 3.6V X2

    Black round ON / OFF rocker switch + waterproof cover

    Magicshine 1m Extension Cable for MJ808E MJ816 MJ872

    Magicshine UK Charger for 900 and 1400 lumen light

    Magicshine 4PCS 18650 lithium battery cell MJ828

    Wide angle lens for P7 LED X1, Spot beam lens for P7 LED x1 (From Germany)

    The bits are all pretty easy to get, mostly of ebay but the lenses did provide a challenge to source and i will try and find the website that i purchased them from but no promises. The build is also pretty simple, i will leave out the description on how the body was made as it was designed by a co maker of the light and not every one here will have access to certain machinery. But i will say it is aluminium sheet metal folded to the forms you see in picture 1. The lenses are held in place with a retaining plate followed by the LEDs with another retaining plate/heatsink.

    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-20052012558.jpg

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ok the LEDs are wired up in series and held on to the heat sink. +ive and -ive are wired to the appropriate in the driver, which in turn is wired to via +ive to the rocker switch and -ive straight to -ive on the battery. The driver is 5 Mode and runs through Medium-Low-High-Strobe-SOS. This will cycle through the modes with a off/on input ie turn it off then on it will go to the next mode.

    Putting it together was a little tricky down to the fiddly nature of the body but seems to be pretty solid. The one major problem was that the front screen placed to help weather proof the body reacted to the locktite from the bolts and cracked. Also trying to stick plastic to metal was a challenge, We found that aroldite did the trick. The body was painted using Acid Etch to prime the aluminium.

    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-02062012575.jpg

    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-light-2.jpg

    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-light-4.jpg

    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-light-6.jpg

    The resulting Light is as follows in the picture below. First hand testing has raised some consern about how hot the body get, so if any one out there has made light of there own if you could let me know if this need not be a consern that would be great.


    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-light-7.jpg

    I have run some night tests that i am impressed with but have not fixed it to the bike yet and will take some night shots soon and post them for every one to see. Any feedback would be great and if you want any more information i would be happy to help.

  2. #2
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    Nice project! LED lights do get hot. 60C is not uncommon. Cooler is better though. A downside to the sheetmetal body is there are a lot of joints to seal if you are trying to waterproof it.

  3. #3
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    looks really cool, great job The fact that it gets hot is a good sign as it shows that there's a good heat path from the LEDs to the housing (and then to the air). As long as it stays only warm to the touch while you're riding, that's what really matters.

  4. #4
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    Cheers guys, so far with the body on it has only got warm to the touch with a 30 minute static run time.

    That is a very valid point any one looking to use this set up the sheet metal route is full of problems and head scratching when it comes to weather proofing, I went down the route of black silicone to fill joints and holes.

    If i had access to a milling machine things may have been alot simpler.

  5. #5
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    Adleysh, really nice looking build and great thinking outside of the box


    If I may make a few comments though and these are not criticisms just observations that may improve the next one you build, and everyone here knows that now you are in the club, there will be a next one.

    There have been lots of discussions in various threads here that painting your housings actually retains heat and even though it is black, the body won't dissipate the heat as well as it would if you had left the al raw. It won't look anywhere near as good as it now does but it might function better.

    I have no experience with the soul leds so I am not sure just how hot they get but if it is only warm to the touch after a static 30 minute test then I suspect you don't have good thermal paths and you are slowly cooking your LEDs. Did you use thermal grease / adhesive between the stars and the "fire wall" they are mounted to? Did you use thermal grease / adhesive between the "fire wall" and the outer body? Its hard to tell but looking at the pics I can't see any at all.

    The tabs on the fire wall that have been bent at 90* to contact the outer body, if at all possible make these wider on the next build. This will give much better surface area contact between the two pieces of the body and help transfer the heat better. If you make them wider then you can also tap some screw holes into them so you have a mechanical bond pulling them tighter to the outer body, again this will help with thermal transfer.

    The build looks really good and the finished product looks great, well done. The real test now is to get out and ride with it to see how it performs.

    Oh, and welcome aboard.

  6. #6
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    cheers !!
    darn nice for sheet-metal !!

    for the paint , keep it outside. lower temp, at low speed , due radiation.
    at moving speed, it don't matter that much. 2+ square-inch per Watt, min .
    the bottom of the housing, does not have good heat path, -> no paint, +thermal grease.
    the top angle-part, bolt it on, to have a defined contact, sheet-metal is not necessary flat,...
    maybe use a U , and bolt it top/bottom with thermal-grease.
    oh, for battery, would say, 6-cell min, 8-cell good, for 2+ LED . + carry backup light/battery
    important part: have fun, does not have to be perfect, ride with it.

  7. #7
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    Nice work..
    My first milled housing was a tripple P7, it gets noticeably hotter than my tripple XM-L
    Might be worth using a thicker heatsink..and when you can swapping the LEDs for XM-Ls
    Project in the making..
    Tripple XML

  8. #8
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    Hey all thanks for the comments and advice. After a bit of investigation i belive to have found the route to the bad thermal path. I didnt use themal grease between the leds and heat sink so that has been corrected and testing has revealed the heat sink getting very hot showing a good path (Cheers for the tip )

    But the major problem was that even though the heat sink was designed to touch the body it was falling short around 1 mm leaving an air gap so hopefully correcting this with either an aluminium oversized spacer plate or using heat adehsive to bridge the gap will do the trick.

    I have already got plans for a smaller single LED head light, Any suggestions on what LED to go for? Im looking to go small with medium power output.
    Last edited by adleysh; 06-06-2012 at 11:16 AM.

  9. #9
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    XML for general all around goodness or XPE if you want a small build with good throw.

    Given your light is made up of parts, is it possible to have a new mount made for the LED that will be 1mm bigger but also have the wider tabs on it, I think that will help enormously.

  10. #10
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    Here is a Beam shot with the settings (Daytime balance 5200k, ISO-100, F4, 6 seconds. On Full Power.
    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-fullba.jpg

  11. #11
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    Final corrections will be made as mentioned by emu26, tested and finally sealed for use. Looking forward to using it. Will pump out the small XM-L head light to accompany it soon.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by adleysh View Post
    Here is a Beam shot with the settings (Daytime balance 5200k, ISO-100, F4, 6 seconds. On Full Power.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    How tall are you?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger View Post
    How tall are you?
    LOL, I thought that was a diorama. Nice pic adleysh

    Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the helmet

  14. #14
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    Another thing you can do it make the mounting plate out of something thicker if you can, make the lip on the top bend the other way and make it much bigger, thermal paste between that and the outside and bolt the outside down to the firewall section (either tap it or tack on some nuts).

    Nice work.


    Edit - Just as emu26 said above

  15. #15
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    I was wondering if any one would notice I forgot the tri pod and had to borrow a recycling bin from around the corner haha hence how low the photo is taken from.

  16. #16
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    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-bike-long.jpg

    Jonny 5 mk1 diy light (1800 lm max)-bike-onboard.jpg

    Two more pics showing short distance illumination.

  17. #17
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    How did you mount the driver? I remember my first light used the same one and the driver would get really hot.

    Custom P7 Light Build (Photos)

  18. #18
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    Really sweet light you have built. Really love the design.

    If you find your driver is getting hot get some copper plumbing pipe and cut it into a strip about 10mm or so wide and hammer it flat. The bend it to a shape so that it sit on top of the driver IC and then down to the housing, and glue it with some thermal epoxy. Makes a really good heat pipe.

  19. #19
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    The driver is only stuck down with silicone adhesive, as this is my first build i didnt want anything super strong holding just incase i needed to remove it. However i shall rig the digital thermometer up to the driver tonight and give it a run, see how hot things get. Thank you brad72 will use if i find heat is a problem.

    As for remaking the heatsink that the leds sit on we are finding that as the aluminium is being bent it shrinks. Making the heatsink touch the body perfectly will take either luck or too many attempts, so we are creating a heatsink that will fold over the top tab and will be thermally glued.

    Looking into non milling/laith ways in creating a small head light for a xm-l now but seem to be at a loss. :S

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