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Thread: I Need Help!!!

  1. #1
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    New question here. I Need Help!!!

    Hello. I have a Cygolite Rover II and Ive had it for over a year now and I love it! But theirs one small problem with it that I don't like. Cygolite uses a seoul P4 led and I HATE the color this led emits! It has a very blue tint to it.

    My question is to you guys is what led can i use in my Rover II that has a white color, wont melt my driver when I turn it on, and work with my stock optics???? ( I can change the optics but I have to find which optics work with my Rover II)

    I tried to test how many miliamps my light draws on boost but I couldn't get it to turn on after I hocked up my amp meter.

    -Losimaster117
    He who hesitates is lost.

  2. #2
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    your best bet is to de-solder the leds replace them with either a natural white or warm white leds. If you always run both led's together, just replacing one on the leds with a lower colour temperature one will also soften the light a lot.

    For reference in my latest build I run 6500k and 4300k leds together to achieve a warmer light output (ie not yellow but not blue)
    Last edited by brad72; 07-19-2010 at 11:28 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by losimaster117
    Hello. I have a Cygolite Rover II and Ive had it for over a year now and I love it! But theirs one small problem with it that I don't like. Cygolite uses a seoul P4 led and I HATE the color this led emits! It has a very blue tint to it.

    My question is to you guys is what led can i use in my Rover II that has a white color, wont melt my driver when I turn it on, and work with my stock optics???? ( I can change the optics but I have to find which optics work with my Rover II)

    I tried to test how many miliamps my light draws on boost but I couldn't get it to turn on after I hocked up my amp meter.

    -Losimaster117
    Just to clarify what Brad said, the same LED can be sourced with different tints.
    Heres some P4 tint bins, you can see the difference between SYP and SUM is huge.
    I thought SXO was a common bin(I haven't had much to do with SSC).
    In general the bluer tints give more lumens.
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=156772



    See here for a comparison of cree tints too
    5B1 XPG tint

    Is your light working again?
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
    A few Dynamo builds and some Small battery lights

  4. #4
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    Digikey sells the Seoul P4 led in a natural white color.

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=897-1004-1-ND

    That is probably the easiest way to change the color you don't like. The downside is that the warmer tints have lower raw light output.

    This would be a lot brighter than the previous link

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=897-1000-1-ND

    It might be too cool/blue for your taste however.

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    Thanks but I don't want any lower lumens than I all ready have. it only has 255 lumens. I would like to boost it up to 350-450 lumens. The more the better! Thanks for your help.
    He who hesitates is lost.

  6. #6
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    Yes my light works just fine but the thing is that when I plug the battery to my light it turns on by itself.( By default.) When I try to connect up my amp meter I cant trick my light to turn on normally. Thus I cant get a reading on my amp meter.
    He who hesitates is lost.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by losimaster117

    My question is to you guys is what led can i use in my Rover II that has a white color, wont melt my driver when I turn it on, and work with my stock optics???? ( I can change the optics but I have to find which optics work with my Rover II

    -Losimaster117
    They were probably trying to keep to your original request of stock optics and no request for more lumens. The safe and easy thing is to stick to the P4.

    Since you also want more lumens then the P4's need to go. Go with some XPE or XPG leds.
    Then measure your current optics and find something of similar size made for the XP series of leds.

    Order and assemble.

    Driver ought to be fine. Vf will be a little lower than the P4, but change always involves some risk. Consider melting things as part of the DIY experience.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    They were probably trying to keep to your original request of stock optics and no request for more lumens. The safe and easy thing is to stick to the P4.

    Since you also want more lumens then the P4's need to go. Go with some XPE or XPG leds.
    Then measure your current optics and find something of similar size made for the XP series of leds.

    Order and assemble.

    Driver ought to be fine. Vf will be a little lower than the P4, but change always involves some risk. Consider melting things as part of the DIY experience.
    Thanks a lot! I'm guessing if I get a more efficient led it would put less strain on the driver so I might go with a xpe or a xpg led. I'm very good with a soldering gun. Then I'll upgrade the battery from the stock 3300 mAh to one of my rc car 5000 mAh battery The question is now what degree lenses should I get... I like the stock lens set up of the Rover II so I'll go with a medium optic. So like a 15 degree lens????? What degree range is considered a medium optic???
    He who hesitates is lost.

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    Around 10 to 15 for the xpe and a 5 to 10 degree for the xpg. Either combo ought to give you a mediumish beam. Or any 5 to 10 degree "diffuse" for either the xpg or xpe.

    Stack height could be an issue. The pcb/xp could have a lower stack height than the P4.
    That can be worked around if it proves to be an issue.
    Just FYI.

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    Quote Originally Posted by losimaster117
    Thanks a lot! I'm guessing if I get a more efficient led it would put less strain on the driver so I might go with a xpe or a xpg led.
    Not necessarily. Depends on the driver design. The lower Vf of an XP-G may allow more current to flow. A headlamp that I replaced a Luxeon 1 with an XP-G in flowed 100mA more current with the XP-G. The Luxeon was driven at 350mA and now the XP-G draws 450 mA. Worked OK though the battery life is shorter on high. The amount of light is so much more though that most of the time I use the lowest setting. Before the change I used high mostly.

    Quote Originally Posted by losimaster117
    Then I'll upgrade the battery from the stock 3300 mAh to one of my rc car 5000 mAh battery
    Make sure you stay within the allowable voltage of the light.

    Quote Originally Posted by losimaster117
    The question is now what degree lenses should I get... I like the stock lens set up of the Rover II so I'll go with a medium optic. So like a 15 degree lens????? What degree range is considered a medium optic???
    The XP-G makes a pretty wide beam even with spot optics. Medium optics would be a waste

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Not necessarily. Depends on the driver design. The lower Vf of an XP-G may allow more current to flow. A headlamp that I replaced a Luxeon 1 with an XP-G in flowed 100mA more current with the XP-G. The Luxeon was driven at 350mA and now the XP-G draws 450 mA. Worked OK though the battery life is shorter on high. The amount of light is so much more though that most of the time I use the lowest setting. Before the change I used high mostly.



    Make sure you stay within the allowable voltage of the light.



    The XP-G makes a pretty wide beam even with spot optics. Medium optics would be a waste
    Well I'm going to have the same 4.8v battery just more run time when I make the new battery. Also I didn't know that XP-G leds have a wide beam even with a spot optic. Do you know what K ratings the XP-G led comes in? Is there one that is close to a 6000-5000 k ratting. Like a pure white led???
    He who hesitates is lost.

  12. #12
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    So I looked around at different leds and I found out that you could use Cree MC-E K-Bin led and the driver works fine with it. Or I could use the R5 XP-G led. Here is the link which I got my idea from. Cygolite Tridenx MC-E (Pic Heavy!!!)
    They used a Cygolite Tridenx btw.
    He who hesitates is lost.

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