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  1. #1
    I ride a Swarf
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    I have added some Seoul to my Cateye Double Shot Edit and Triple Shot

    I have written it up on candlepowerforums

    here is the link
    .

    like I say in the thread its untested long term, so do at your own risk.

    they are a load brighter though.

    Stu
    Last edited by Stuart B; 05-01-2007 at 12:27 PM.
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  2. #2
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    Its dark enough to do some phots for comparisonmns between the stock tripleshot and the seouled double shot. Same battery used for both lights. Lightr is shining on white ceiling 7 foot or so above bed. Camera and light on bed.

    Stock Tripleshot 1/50th F2.8


    Seoul Doubleshot 1/50th F2.8


    Stick Tripleshot 1/100th F2.8

    Seould Double Shot 1/100th F2.8

    The double has a bigger brighter spot. I need to charge both batteries, but It lookes like the double is as good at flood too now.

    The colour is more blue than the greeny tint the K2s I put in had.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  3. #3
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    Very nice work Stu!

    I’ve been wondering if someone would do this mod since that thread here on MTBR a while back. It's nice to see someone take the plunge and get it done!

    You mention a “ringy” beam and although it seems to be a common trait of the CatEye optics, I have found that the SSC P4’s don’t seem to work overly well with optics in general. Some are better then others however. A nice textured reflector will help blend things nicely, and create a much smoother light. Finding reflectors with the right profile and physical dimensions for your needs would probably be a challenge though.

    Have you tried running your meter in series with the emitters to see if the controller still behaves in terms of drive current with the different emitter forward voltage? It likely wouldn’t have changed, but just out of interest.

    So is your Triple Shot next to hit the operation table?

    Dave.

  4. #4
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    Hey Stu, Any chance of seeing the shots on a trail or just outdoors.

    Anybody else change optics on a Niterider MiNewt. Also, does anyone know if Niterider offers an upgrade or plans to.

    MB

  5. #5
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    New MiNewt coming from niterider, "twice as bright, half the voltage draw." But you didn't hear it from me

  6. #6
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    WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!

    You didn't hear that from me.(LOL)

    Thanks.

    MB

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Low_Rider
    Very nice work Stu!

    I’ve been wondering if someone would do this mod since that thread here on MTBR a while back. It's nice to see someone take the plunge and get it done!

    You mention a “ringy” beam and although it seems to be a common trait of the CatEye optics, I have found that the SSC P4’s don’t seem to work overly well with optics in general. Some are better then others however. A nice textured reflector will help blend things nicely, and create a much smoother light. Finding reflectors with the right profile and physical dimensions for your needs would probably be a challenge though.

    Have you tried running your meter in series with the emitters to see if the controller still behaves in terms of drive current with the different emitter forward voltage? It likely wouldn’t have changed, but just out of interest.

    So is your Triple Shot next to hit the operation table?

    Dave.
    Thanks Dave.

    I am hoping to do the Triple soon, possibly today if I pull my thumb out hehe. I will measure the optics dimensions when I pull that one apart. I have a few reflectors, non are the right size unfortunatly without more serious mods.

    I didn't measure the current, I will try an think of a way to get a meter inline to check it..The Vfs at 700mA aren't that disimilar for the lux 3 and seoul though. The seouls is a bit lower. Goping on the data sheets

    mb323323 - I will try and borrow my mates tripod and take some out door shots. I am recovering from a broken leg so it won't be a trail shot. I will have propbably modded the triple by the time I do that so the comparison photos will be different to the wall shots posted.So the photos will have less meaning ( a camera can be set make a light look amazing or bad), I will do the same ceiling ahot though to show how the triple has improved to help with that.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  8. #8
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    Just a word of warning

    I just started on my triple which is virgin. The black screws are some sort of alloy of cheese. So be careful not to strip the heads out.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  9. #9
    Spanish biker
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    Excellent job!!!!!!!!! are a form easy to upgrade the light with a little money.

    Enjoy it!!!!!

    Cheers - Saludos!!!!!!!!

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by msxtr
    Excellent job!!!!!!!!! are a form easy to upgrade the light with a little money.

    Enjoy it!!!!!

    Cheers - Saludos!!!!!!!!

    msxtr
    Cheers chap. Its abit fiddly, but a very good improvement in light for not much money.

    I just finished the triple. It was abit more of a fiddle this one. I striped the black scres heads. They seemd to be made of cheese and threadlocked in. In the double the silver ones also hold the LEDs against the rear, So I drilled out the black ones and kept the screw shaft to keep everything alined. This did mean I couldn't get the bigger plastic piece out. I gor the LEDs out and left the big bit in. I decided to use multstrand insulated wire instead of the bendy wire so everythin was more manouverable (to make the bodge easier . Couple of hours later I have a nitroed triple.

    I have leant something too. The flood is not proviided by the optics...all the optics are the same. The flood on the outside LEDs on the triple is provided by the frosting on the front glass.

    Which is a little unfortunate as it measn you can't swap between the triple and double.

    Before I would say the double was brighter than the stock triple...now the seouled triple is noticable brighter than the seouled double.

    The triple is no more ringy than before I would say. I will take similar beam shots as before tonight.

    Edit I didn't take phots....but its the same kinda thing as the double.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  11. #11
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    Here is a beamshot of the triple


    This is at 1/100th of a second exposure and F2.8

    significantly brighter than stock

    I did some static runs today. the lights gets as warm as it did before (by feel) when not in moving air. I observed some temperature related dimming. the unit was probably 50 Celcius (guess). I have heard that seouls are quite temperature sensitive. I would guess it was still a fair bit brighter than stock.

    I will do a soak but with the unit being blown on by a fan simulating riding and update you.

    I just found trhe oversize bar clamp that comes with the triple....my crutchs are about the same diamerter as an over size bar.....so I fitted it hehe. Might take a piccy of it tomorrow

    Stu
    Last edited by Stuart B; 05-01-2007 at 01:41 PM.
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  12. #12
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    Nice. I like the whiter color as well.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by James@GearReview
    Nice. I like the whiter color as well.
    Yeah I like the colour too. Especially against the k2s I had in the double before, these were quite green.

    I haven't had chance to compare to my trailtech hid yet. Its on my bike hund up from the ceiling. Next time a mate comes around I might ask them to pull it down for me. Hopefully they are more similar in output and colour. I still use the the HID with the double as I need to be able to swap lights at races for run time. The HID should have a harder time drowning the double out now.

    Edit mode on - I forgot to say....I soak tested the triple using the fan, it ran perfectly fine for 2 hours. It started gettiing a bit dim due to the battery at this stage. I will try again tonight with a freh battery to check. The original figure says it shoudl run for 3.3 hours. The LED voltage should be thee same. Even so, there isn't much head room above the battery voltage with three leds and its hgoing into unregulated mode. I am nort sure I ever used the triple for 2 hours straight before with out recharging, I used to use the HID more which I have 2 batteries for. I will ask my mate to do a similar test with his stock triples to see if its a new feature hehe. I know its the battery as I quickly swapped the doubles battery on and all was bright again.

    I am tempted to try it with my LiIons and buck puck. I can try em at 1 amp then. whoich in theory should be 25% brighter. If I can find a source for the double shot extnebsions to chop up I'll try it. This will have greater voltage headroom also.

    Edit mode off

    Check out the new light testing rig hehe



    I haven't tried it yet....but I might if I go to my mates house up the road later in the week ....offroad at least. If I use it on the pavement I will annoy cars as a tilt the crutch back when I move it forward. I need to see whre I am going arounf the back of his flat (unlit steps and narrow path), I usually have a small torch in my mouth dribbling...it ain't pretty.

    Stu
    Last edited by Stuart B; 05-02-2007 at 01:03 AM.
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  14. #14
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    Are these new modded LEDs regulated LEDs (like are used in the Cateye Doubleshot pro/Tripleshot pro and Princeton Tec Switchbacks), or just standard LEDs which will drop off over time?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by akashra
    Are these new modded LEDs regulated LEDs (like are used in the Cateye Doubleshot pro/Tripleshot pro and Princeton Tec Switchbacks), or just standard LEDs which will drop off over time?
    LEDs are driven by the original/standard controller circuit mounted on the battery which regulates to 700mA. I wan't aware the Pro LEDS were regulating themselves. I haven't got the pro, but I imagined its very similar in setiup. Unregulated LEDs, Current regulating circuit and battery. I haven't seen a self regulating high power LED (not saying they don't exist) except fror drop in bulb replacements for mag lights and so on.

    I haven't properly investigated the dimming at the end of run of the triple yet. But like I said, I believe its due to the battery voltage dropping low enough for it to bo longer posible to drive 700mA. So the current drops off.
    Some lights do quote their run time down to half brightness even if they are constant brightness for a good chunck of time (in regulated mode). I will get my mate to run his stock triple to see if its just my modded ones, if it is I need to check its not dues to a slightly high resistance somewhere or just that the Vf of LED is actually higher than stated..

    I will do sa similar burn time test on the double soon. I have used this a fair bit, so know that it didn't dim much at the end of its charge before flashing (low bat warning).

    Update, I have just ordered a couple of extension leads. I will use these to check the drive voltage and currents with the stock controller. I will also make a setup with a buck puck on my Lithium Ions at upto 1 Amp (will post beam shots at 1 Amp).

    Stu
    Last edited by Stuart B; 05-03-2007 at 12:30 AM.
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  16. #16
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    I Think...I say think....it need investigating...but

    I have some IMS reflectors, one of them might fit...i think its the 20mm one.

    If it fits it will be luck....the diamter is spot on. when placed on top of the LED with the reflectors legs chopped off and with all the plastic cateye pieces inside still is prodrudes out the front of the light....by what look like the thickness off the clamping plastic piece....hopefully the protrusion is slightly more, i mean fracion of a mm. Tomorrow I will try removing the top plastic piece that clamped the LED in and see if the reflector can be used to clamp the LED in with the gasket acting as an nice firm but compressible compression holding the LED against the back.

    With the cateye plastic pieces inside still the LED doesn't sit far enough into the reflector.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  17. #17
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    looks like the seoul and ims 20 are a perfect fit in the cateye. I did a "blink" test. I only have one IMS 20 so I put the stock in the other (Not perferct as the plastic pieces were removed) but the IMS is so smooth, hardly ringy at all, I would say they are less lossy too. Possibly becaue more the refelector is over the LED and catching more light. The stock set up is shaded around the circumference slightly by the top plastic part (I need to call them other than pieces hehe)

    With the IMS legs clipped off it was a perfect fit with it slightly poking out the front of the light allowing the rubber gasket to compress against it.

    I have ordered a bunch. Hopefully next week I will have more beam shots.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  18. #18
    It's carbon dontcha know.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y-Wrench
    New MiNewt coming from niterider, "twice as bright, half the voltage draw." But you didn't hear it from me
    Is this it:
    http://www.niterider.com/prod_minewt.shtml

    Or is there a new revision coming?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6thElement
    Is this it:
    http://www.niterider.com/prod_minewt.shtml

    Or is there a new revision coming?

    Nope. That's the old Minewt. Luxeons. The new one should have crees or seouls.

    I'm waiting.

    MB

  20. #20
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    I didn't realise 20mm reflectors were pretty much standard in size.

    I have gone a bit reflector crazy to find out what works best. I have ordered some IMS 20, MCR20 (Seoul and non Seoul versions) and the Khatod wide and narrow beams.

    Hoping to oreder a couple of nFlex controllers too so I can try them at 1 amp on my Lithium bats I have already. I didn't realise the nFlex has a low voltage warning...which is awesome on litiums.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  21. #21
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    Update

    I have my Khatod reflectors. My IMS and McR ones have been sitting in customs....should be here tomorrow. I had to pay 8.50 tax and 13 quid to parcel force for the privilege of them handling it.

    So far I am impressed withthe kahtod ones....nice beams and fit like a glove.

    For the triple so far my favourite beam (on a wall at least...need out door tests still) is to use 1 wide in the middle (through the clear part of the lens) and run to spots on the outside (under the frosted bits). This gives a nice flood, but with a big soft hot spot. the hot spot is atleast as big as my HID and actually blends better into the spill than the HID. The Spill is brighter than the HID, but the diameter of the spill is smaller than the HID. I think this is shading due to the housing. The HID spill diam is much biigger than needed though.

    In the double I think narow angle reflectors works well. Hot spot is tighter than triple, but there is still a brighter flood than the HID....again the spill diameter is smaller that the HID....but this isn't critical for helmet use.

    should I have measured the voltage and current output from the stock contreoller on the triple. Output sithe factory 700mA and the voltaeg is 10V across 3 leds. Less than I thought it would be after reading the data sheet. I was expecting 10.7V or so.....thats a bit extra burn time from what I thought . I am getting my mates stock triple to do the stock voltage measuremenst and to do run time tests. last time I did a burn test on the stock setup it got noticably dim after 2 hours. my tests/comparisons with the stock lightget the answer to that.

    I did a 2.5 hour run using the neflex and 1 of li ions at 1 amp with a fan blowing on the houising. The Lowvoltage cut in just before the batterys protection did....so happy there. Might knock the nflex voltage threshold up a bit to allow some time on the emergency light level. If the bat circuit cuts out on its own you have no light. the voltage warning flash on the nflex is much more friendly than the cateye one which is a quick 50% strobe.....not so good when it happens hacking down a techy section at a race like it did last year hehe.

    I did notice a bit of blue shift after a while at 1amp. the housing was warm to the touch. I still have 2 layers of thermal tape I used to gain clearance when using the stock optics/plastic clamp. now the reflector is the clamp....i will put a single fresh layer in to reduce thermal resistance.


    I am still playing with nflex current levels for the lower settinsg. At 0.45A with no airflow the light hardly gets warm to the touch when in still air. an it is still loads brighte than stock. at that level it should last nearly all of a mid summer night.

    LowRider - I have added this to your database thread

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  22. #22
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    quick update

    the mcr20 reflectors don't fit. they would need a nats cock turned off on a lathe.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  23. #23
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    Walk me through this

    Stuart. Ead the post and am interested in upgrading my DS and TS. Can you give me somse step by step instructions and tell me what to buy?

    Thanks Mate

  24. #24
    trail rat
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    justaguy - look at the link in his first post and you will have what you seek.
    "The physician heals, Nature makes well" - real fortune cookie

    CCCMB trail work for trail access - SLO, CA

  25. #25
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    Hi

    Yeah the link in my first post pretty much covers it.

    As for parts,

    If keeping the stock battery and controller you will need

    thermal tape (I got mone on ebay)
    Some White Seouls P4 Leds (I usually get mine from www,leds.de, I thinmk mine are U bin ones...bins are brightness catagorys (the are color tint catgories too))
    You can use the standard optics as posted in that link.
    A soldering iron, hex key ( can't remember what size) and a smallish cross head screw driver.
    and a couple of hours (take yer time to get it right).

    pul it to bits as described, swap the LEDs as described and carefully put it all back together.

    This set up is significantly brighter than stock.

    I have since changed the optics in mine to get a better beam. I have put 20mm diameter khatod reflectors in. The beam is very much improved. to fit these, don't refit the samller plastic piece that clamps the led to the back of the light, put refelctors in over the LED bubble, its should pretrude slightly out the the open light so that when the light front is put back on it provides the clamping force.

    If the LED isn't thermally bonded and clamped to the rear it will over heat and go blue and get damaged or even die. Like said in the link, the rear of the LED isn't electriclly neutral, so I used thermal tape as it is an electrical insulator. Thermal compound risks shortng out when the led is clamped.

    If you have any spoecific queries feel free to ask. You won't damage the light by popping the front off, and carefully removinf the optics to have a look before doing any surgery to familiarise your self.

    ]Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  26. #26
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    It’s great to hear you’re still playing! Did you go for the textured or smoother Khatod reflectors?

  27. #27
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    Hey Dave,

    good to see ya back on mtbr

    on the triple I used a combination of 1 textered in the middle and 2 outer ones as smooth. the outer ones perspex is frosted sofening them up. the beam is not disimilar ot my 12degree hid....nice and floody with quite a gradual transition to a biggish spot. The HID beam has always been my goal. the double uses 2 smooth ones that gives quite good spill with a tighter brighter hotspot....perfect for a hemelt light.

    all the rings are gone too.

    I still haven't tried them on the bike...still on crutches.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  28. #28
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    Very nice, from the data sheet and various comments that have been made it sounds like the textured Khatod reflectors make for a really nice smooth flood, while the smooth reflectors have quite a bit of throw at the expense of beam quality.

    A slight frosting makes sense (I guess you had no option with the CatEye), and it sounds like a great combination. Some beam shots would be fantastic!

    How long before you can get mobile again, you seem to have been on those crutches for a while now! I hope you’re out and about soon.

    Dave.

  29. #29
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    I will try to take some beam shots. Just got a new pc and need to get ftp setup on it.

    The textured provides a very floody smooth beam with out a real hot spot. the smooths are on a par to ims reflectors.

    I really like the khatod reflectors....perform well and good value.

    I will hopefully be off crutches soon. I see physio again tomorrow.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  30. #30
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    Updates?

    Stuart,

    Finally getting around to upgrading the DoubleShot and TripleShot. Reading back through I think you had some IMS reflectors ordered and were using some Khatod ones.

    I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I appreciate all the work you did, and the step by step instructions on how to replace. Now my question is which reflector worked best?

    Thanks,
    "Like dogs, bicycles are social catalysts that attract a superior category of people" ~ Chip Brown

  31. #31
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    New measurment unit to me.. .how many mm is that exactly

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by justaguy
    Stuart,

    Finally getting around to upgrading the DoubleShot and TripleShot. Reading back through I think you had some IMS reflectors ordered and were using some Khatod ones.

    I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I appreciate all the work you did, and the step by step instructions on how to replace. Now my question is which reflector worked best?

    Thanks,
    Hi Chap,

    I reckon that the khatod combo I described in post 24 works best. The triple produces a beam very much like my HID, and the double is nice and throwy with good spill still.

    Unfortunately I still haven't used them in anger yet (I am doing some easy road miles when I can though).

    Let us know how your mods go.

    Heatstroke, which units do you mean?

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart B
    Hi Chap,



    Heatstroke, which units do you mean?

    Stu
    I think he means the gnats cock,
    which is smaller than a cock hair . it is an english standard measuring unit .


    Great mod . would have liked to see the internals while you had them in bits.

    Like the crutch light .

  34. #34
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    lol, I forgot I said that

    I will pop the front off and take a snap if I remember.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  35. #35
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    Thanks, comments, lenses?

    Yo Stu! Your original post was my inspiration and guide to mod my double and triple as well as a friend's triple. Thanks for your help!

    You were right about needing to be careful with the screws - I didn't have any serious trouble with the internal screws, but the outer (allen) screws gave me fits. Had to drill one out and helicoil it, but learned that if they start getting stiffer as they come out - stop and run them back in a bit/put a little penetrating oil on/wait a bit/proceed.

    After reading your comments on the "live" nature of the base, I thought: I'll just use nonconductive heat compound! Turns out that it works fine until you get the unit fully screwed back together, and then has enough contact to bypass all but the last emitter. But I came up with a good solution! Add a thin bit of filter paper in there. Punched out a bit of coffee filter with a paper hole punch, saturate it with heat goop (arcticsilver ceramique) by putting a coat on both sides and the led and the base - put it together. Minimal stack height, seems to conduct heat very well, no electrical contact.

    So what exact Khatod lenses are you using? I don't see a 20mm diameter listed - the KEPL198 at 21.7mm is smallest for SSC's. http://www.khatod.com/k52_lens_zpower.htm I find the stock optics are decent, but since the double is the "spot" and it is overpowered by the triple "flood" it would be nice to get some tight focus lenses for the triple on the helmet. I'm working on a non-frosted cover so at least I get min spread from the "opticube" lenses.

    As a comment, I'm running the stock Cateye power on the bar and a 1A buckpuck for the helmet. Both bar and helmet are triples until my friend asks for his triple back
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester
    Yo Stu! Your original post was my inspiration and guide to mod my double and triple as well as a friend's triple. Thanks for your help!

    You were right about needing to be careful with the screws - I didn't have any serious trouble with the internal screws, but the outer (allen) screws gave me fits. Had to drill one out and helicoil it, but learned that if they start getting stiffer as they come out - stop and run them back in a bit/put a little penetrating oil on/wait a bit/proceed.

    After reading your comments on the "live" nature of the base, I thought: I'll just use nonconductive heat compound! Turns out that it works fine until you get the unit fully screwed back together, and then has enough contact to bypass all but the last emitter. But I came up with a good solution! Add a thin bit of filter paper in there. Punched out a bit of coffee filter with a paper hole punch, saturate it with heat goop (arcticsilver ceramique) by putting a coat on both sides and the led and the base - put it together. Minimal stack height, seems to conduct heat very well, no electrical contact.

    So what exact Khatod lenses are you using? I don't see a 20mm diameter listed - the KEPL198 at 21.7mm is smallest for SSC's. http://www.khatod.com/k52_lens_zpower.htm I find the stock optics are decent, but since the double is the "spot" and it is overpowered by the triple "flood" it would be nice to get some tight focus lenses for the triple on the helmet. I'm working on a non-frosted cover so at least I get min spread from the "opticube" lenses.

    As a comment, I'm running the stock Cateye power on the bar and a 1A buckpuck for the helmet. Both bar and helmet are triples until my friend asks for his triple back
    I am chuffed my post was useful, the cateye is a good, but not great light...with some tweaking it is much better . Glad you found a solution to the slug shorting.

    I am not using lenses, I am using reflectors http://www.khatod.com/k52_parabole.htm. The 20.5mm version. They are intended for Luxeons, but work great on the seouls too. They are just the right size to get get squeezed when the front goes on.

    The opticube lenses are the worst thing about the cateyes in my opinion, really ringy. Even the non textured reflector is much smoother. It still has great throw, but also better spill.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  37. #37
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    I'll have to get some of the reflectors - narrow down the beam for the hat and spread it out for the handlebar. Thanks!

    And I'll post some pics here:
    1) Double with cover off/lenses out - note broken screw on housing. 6 retainer screws are removed - then I remembered to take the pic.
    2) Top plastic retainer bit removed - showing wiring for future reference - note black silicone on solder joins.
    3) Here is what comes out of the housing - takes a bit of tweak to break the thermogoop.
    4) Aaaaahhhhh. P4's in plastic retainer. Note the wiggles where the tabs had to be straightened out to fit.
    5) All the parts of a tripleshot
    Attached Images Attached Images
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  38. #38
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    sorry for the latre reply...somehow this managed to slip me by.

    Great to see another open heart surgery on a triple

    how are you getting on with then. did you get any reflectors?

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

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    Hola Stu! Just wanted to drop a thanks for the motivation to buy and mod a Tripleshot! Did the first ride tonight and I was more than impressed!

    I used Cree XR-E P5 bin from Deal Extreme mounted on round bases. I cut out a replacement slug for the LEDs to mount to and Arctic Silver epoxied them in place. Worked great ! no loss and ran them for 2.5 hours straight. The housing never got more than slightly warm.

    Unfortunately I'm now addicted and debating ordering new optics and a 1A controller. I'm impressed now, especially for the cost. It's hard to imagine much more!

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by nynx
    Unfortunately I'm now addicted and debating ordering new optics and a 1A controller. I'm impressed now, especially for the cost. It's hard to imagine much more!
    Ditto, props to Stu for being the first brave Seoul to break into a perfectly functioning light.

    Nynx, which optics did you get?
    Long Live Long Rides

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by nynx
    Hola Stu! Just wanted to drop a thanks for the motivation to buy and mod a Tripleshot! Did the first ride tonight and I was more than impressed!

    I used Cree XR-E P5 bin from Deal Extreme mounted on round bases. I cut out a replacement slug for the LEDs to mount to and Arctic Silver epoxied them in place. Worked great ! no loss and ran them for 2.5 hours straight. The housing never got more than slightly warm.

    Unfortunately I'm now addicted and debating ordering new optics and a 1A controller. I'm impressed now, especially for the cost. It's hard to imagine much more!
    Excellent work mate! This is the first Cree triple I have heard of...I wonder if its a first...very good work. I am also interested in what optics you use.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

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    Oh sorry I wasn't more clear. I stayed with the stock optics for the initial mod. The combination of the new copper base and cree on star is same as the stock aluminum/LEDs/plastic bits. This enabled me to just drop the whole rig together. The stock optics fit nicely over the Cree domes. They also remain very "ringy" with a nice hot spot and a ridiculous amount of fill. Nice on trail and I had several cars flash their headlights at me on the road.

    On that note though I have ordered some 20mm Ledils and will be trying those out when arrived. I basically ordered two of each so I can figure what works best.

    I also started thinking of modding the pack with a 1 amp controller. I'll either do this or buy a Li-Ion 5200MAh pack and put a bFlex in it. I'd like to have multiple levels of brightness... Anyone have any thoughts on mounting the bFlex on the pack instead of the housing?
    I'd then craft a homebrew double and use the stock pack with it for a helmet light.

    Now I'm sure you guys would probably like a pic, Sorry I don't have any more Arctic Silver or I'd pull it completely apart. so.....

    I used a 1.5" copper union and cut it down the side and then flattened it out. I traced the shape from the original aluminum base and cut out with a jigsaw. I then used a dremel grinding bit in my drill press to smooth out the edges. I glued the Cree's down with Arctic Silver adhesive and wired them up. I polished the mounting surface of the light to bright and shiny and applied a thin layer of regular Arctic Silver. and installed with new allen head bolts instead of the poor Phillips heads. The rest remains stock for now.

    Oh also, I destroyed the factory LED's and plastic bits playing with ideas but it would be easier to just snip the leads and keep the factory assembly in case it's ever needed.
    Last edited by nynx; 04-12-2008 at 07:29 PM.

  43. #43
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    I am chuffed you got the Crees in. I wasn't sure they would fit with bases, and too much faff with out bases (shorting etc).

    The bFlex is a great controller. I have tested it, but not used it in anger with the triple. To have the controller with the battery you wil have to run a pair of wires to a switch somewhere to get the levels/on/off. You can't use the stock switch as it is inline with the power to the head. I asked george about running the controller open loaded, but he said the capacitor on the output may be over volted (depending on battery), becase the output will max out to battery voltage as will be trying to get to the set current into a very large resitance (Air). So if you keep the inline switch, be careful to keep it closed.

    It would be nicer to run a new cable into the back of the light, but I couldn't figure out if the silver back plate would come out with damaging anything.

    I want to put the b/nFlex in mine, so I may have to have another play. Multilevel triple/doubles would be amazing for both racing/playing and commuting.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

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    I am in the process of upgrading mine. I have found that if you run the lights hard before you dissassemble and heat the unit up, the screws will come out much easier. I stripped out one and managed to get it out after I nearly burned out the LEDs driving them so hard but who cares about the LEDs right? I'm doing 3 U bin P4s with 20mm reflectors, I am amazed at how well it all fits in there!

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by gessner17
    I am in the process of upgrading mine. I have found that if you run the lights hard before you dissassemble and heat the unit up, the screws will come out much easier. I stripped out one and managed to get it out after I nearly burned out the LEDs driving them so hard but who cares about the LEDs right? I'm doing 3 U bin P4s with 20mm reflectors, I am amazed at how well it all fits in there!
    Glad to hear you got the screw out! Good tip.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

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    I think running a new cable setup is an absolute if I change packs and go with the bFlex. Seems easier that way too. Also I can use the entire Tripleshot harness and battery assembly for my helmet light. I figure I won't need the multiple brightness levels on that light anyways. Not to mention 700mA sounds better on the helmet light that won't be as well heatsinked as the Cateye.

    Those black phillips heads are the devil! I drilled the head off one after stripping. After the tension was released the rest unscrewed easily with needle nose pliers. The aluminum base is stuck down with a little heat sink goop. Once the screws are out it will pop out when pried with something pointed. If someone is doing this in the future. You can leave the silver screws in. Just unscrew the two black ones. That way the whole factory LED assembly comes out in one piece. Of course that's irrelevant in you're using the aluminum base plate.

    Once the assembly is out you'll find a large hole in the center of the housing, Where teh cable comes in. Unfortunately it's not quite large enough for a bFlex. Also this was of concern due to the effective area for conductivity being reduced. Thus the copper plate idea came up. I figured it gave better thermal conductivity and transfer to the housing. I think the housing get's hotter than before so I'm guessing this is correct. After seeing the stock design I'm thinking it wasn't as thermally effective at moving heat to the housing and thus outside. Hopefully I'm right, Driving at 1A will surely indicate if the LEDs are getting too hot.

    Now I need to figure out how to get my Canon S3 to do a proper beam shot. I'll post after I get some shots. I'm good with electronics and suck at photography!

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by nynx
    I think running a new cable setup is an absolute if I change packs and go with the bFlex. Seems easier that way too. Also I can use the entire Tripleshot harness and battery assembly for my helmet light. I figure I won't need the multiple brightness levels on that light anyways. Not to mention 700mA sounds better on the helmet light that won't be as well heatsinked as the Cateye.

    Those black phillips heads are the devil! I drilled the head off one after stripping. After the tension was released the rest unscrewed easily with needle nose pliers. The aluminum base is stuck down with a little heat sink goop. Once the screws are out it will pop out when pried with something pointed. If someone is doing this in the future. You can leave the silver screws in. Just unscrew the two black ones. That way the whole factory LED assembly comes out in one piece. Of course that's irrelevant in you're using the aluminum base plate.

    Once the assembly is out you'll find a large hole in the center of the housing, Where teh cable comes in. Unfortunately it's not quite large enough for a bFlex. Also this was of concern due to the effective area for conductivity being reduced. Thus the copper plate idea came up. I figured it gave better thermal conductivity and transfer to the housing. I think the housing get's hotter than before so I'm guessing this is correct. After seeing the stock design I'm thinking it wasn't as thermally effective at moving heat to the housing and thus outside. Hopefully I'm right, Driving at 1A will surely indicate if the LEDs are getting too hot.

    Now I need to figure out how to get my Canon S3 to do a proper beam shot. I'll post after I get some shots. I'm good with electronics and suck at photography!
    What a star. I think mine will get opened again for recabling for the nflex then. chaning the plarte also means we can play with depth and there for optic options too. I like the Khatods alot for their beam pattern....but TIR optics are theoretically more efficient.

    I will also play with the thermal path....as I know that the lights get hot on zero airflow at 1A. If the path is bad then the LEDs are perhaps getting to hot....and even if they arn't over heating acording to the data sheet....heat is lost lumens (although it is rare to need 1A when stationary).

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  48. #48
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    Tripleshot Mod

    Stu,

    First, thanks for the inspiration and confidence to dig into a functioning device (albeit, I've always been dissatisfied with the amount of light from the stock Triple). I used gessner's tip of heating things up and have the light fully disassembled - one of the cheese-bolts struggled a bit, but a little persuasion was all it needed.

    Thermal tape is ordered from eBay and on its way.

    A few questions:
    The original solder has a rubberized coating on top (I think?), I'm guessing to avoid shorts, although I can't see any metal the connect points could touch. Do I need to somehow coat the contact points after soldering the new LED's in place?

    Do the P4's have a polarity I need to be concerned about, and if so, which way should they be oriented?

    For parts to order from: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=169435 , is the following correct?
    Three (3) SSC P4 Emitters, U2SW0H
    Two (2) Khatod Smooth Reflectors, 20mm
    One (1) Khatod Stippled Reflector, 20mm
    Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound (for the contact point between the back plate and the body of the Tripleshot).

    Anything else I'm missing?

    Again, thanks, I'll post how everything turns out.

    Rob

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrongLight&Cheap
    Stu,

    First, thanks for the inspiration and confidence to dig into a functioning device (albeit, I've always been dissatisfied with the amount of light from the stock Triple). I used gessner's tip of heating things up and have the light fully disassembled - one of the cheese-bolts struggled a bit, but a little persuasion was all it needed.

    Thermal tape is ordered from eBay and on its way.

    A few questions:
    The original solder has a rubberized coating on top (I think?), I'm guessing to avoid shorts, although I can't see any metal the connect points could touch. Do I need to somehow coat the contact points after soldering the new LED's in place?

    Do the P4's have a polarity I need to be concerned about, and if so, which way should they be oriented?

    For parts to order from: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=169435 , is the following correct?
    Three (3) SSC P4 Emitters, U2SW0H
    Two (2) Khatod Smooth Reflectors, 20mm
    One (1) Khatod Stippled Reflector, 20mm
    Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound (for the contact point between the back plate and the body of the Tripleshot).

    Anything else I'm missing?

    Again, thanks, I'll post how everything turns out.

    Rob
    Hi Chap,

    I didn't coat any of the connections. I just snipped the LED terminals nice and short (while still allowing a good connection), they can't flex at all that way and short.

    The list looks good with a quick squiz. The only thing is if you ordered thermal tape you don't need the arctic silver. I would recommend you get enough reflectors to let you try different combos. maybe 1 extra stippled and 1 extra smooth perhaps, or go the whole hog and have 3 of each if you are like me lol. Beam pattern preference is subjective, you may want more throw or more flood than my suggestion. I would also order a spare led or 2, just in case you don't get a good thermal bond first time....but that is why i have loads of different LEDs and optics reflectors kicking about....can't have too many spares/options lol.

    make sure the slugs are electrically isolated from the chassis.

    Happy modding,

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  50. #50
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    Hi, I know this thread is a bit old now but was wondering if the latest Led's like the ssc p7 or cree xre would work on the doubleshot mod, using the stock battery & driver.
    Thanks Bri

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