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  1. #1
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    How would "you" mount this...hmmm?

    First and foremost, I apologize for the crappy pic's. I used my cell phone b/c I'm not home.

    I'm building a different housing for my triple XP-E from Quazzle. Since it's a narrower beam...I'm thinking it'd be better as a helmet mounted light.

    I finned 3/4 of it, but left the lower portion solid until I decide on how I want to mount it. I spun it out on the lathe and milled the fins with my drill press.

    What would you do?

    The wires will route like bshallards double/triple with the exit hole in the center and a milled channel to the edge.

    Piccy's:





  2. #2
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    If it were a bar mount setup, I'd go Dinotte.

    I'm considering an Ameoba type flat-bottom velcro design for shear simplicity. I think the XP-E will still have enough flood that I'm not terribly sure that I'll need a vertical pivot.

    I had considered milling a slot all the way through the bottom to fit a strap through it and around the helmet baffle.

    I'm a little sick of the "L-Bracket" mount thing. It's cool, but I'm just getting tired of it.

    I had also considered a "pinch design that would have something like two fingers...one on each side...they'd grab the fins.

  3. #3
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    Make an U shaped bracket, little over the size of the light diameter, so the light can sit in on a thru-bolt pivot. You'll get just a little bit of tilt you'll need, to fine adjust the beam.

    Last edited by Toaster79; 07-27-2010 at 03:00 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    I'm not terribly sure that I'll need a vertical pivot.
    I use the vertical adjustment on a helmet light almost every ride. After I get tired I let my head droop and look forward more by raising my eyes. It is nice to be able to raise the light a bit on helmet then.

  5. #5
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    The L bracket is probably one of the easier and more efficient ways to attach a helmet light.
    You could make a single rail mount. Open a hole thru the fins from one side to pass a bolt and secure the light in the rail. It would be very low and clean.
    Something like this. Sorry for my poor design skills imagine the rest of the fins around the light.

  6. #6
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    Zip ties.

    Done.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bravellir
    The L bracket is probably one of the easier and more efficient ways to attach a helmet light.
    You could make a single rail mount. Open a hole thru the fins from one side to pass a bolt and secure the light in the rail. It would be very low and clean.
    Something like this. Sorry for my poor design skills imagine the rest of the fins around the light.
    This intrigues me.

  8. #8
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    What about something like this..



    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.31871


  9. #9
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    Well...as I said, since it's going to be a triple XP-E instead of G...it's probably better on the helmet. I want to make it somewhat sleek b/c the light itself is so small. The rubber surrounding the aluminum will insulate the heat vs. transfer it. It's a decent idea and would get the job done, but a flashlight holder isn't quite what I'm after. I'd probably rather lean back toward making another machined "L-Bracket" before something like that.


    With regards to the Amoeba velcro mount idea...I held it u to my helmet tonight...not liking it.

    I'm still intrigued by the central rail type mount. Maybe I'll use my double barrel mount that I have sitting un-used...just shorten it a bit.

  10. #10
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    By the looks of it you should be asking your Mrs!!!
    Belongs in a Ann Sumers catalogue!

  11. #11
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    With a rubber!

    From Colin (not Colon): http://www.vorb.org.nz/101-uses-for-...tubes#p2312092
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    This intrigues me.

    Do you think it can be done?

  13. #13
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    I want to make it somewhat sleek b/c the light itself is so small. It's a decent idea and would get the job done, but a tad on the cobbled side. I'd probably rather lean back toward making another machined "L-Bracket" before something like that.

  14. #14
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    As I told you before, its hard to beat the L-bracket, but do you think it would be that odd? The way I imagine it it would be almost invisible under the light. I tought of it because off the SDG i-beam, Two of the fins would clamp on the bracket single rail.

    Or you could use one of those metal clip things

    like this but without the rollers

  15. #15
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    Looks awesome! How about tapping a hole in the bottom and then you could attach it to any number of mounting plates or just build a small bracket similar to your others with a hinge point below or to the side of the light body.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by KYjelly
    What about something like this..



    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.31871

    I can't comment on the two-strap clamp, but I'm afraid I've found that the second light holder here doesn't hold up well at all. I've had the handlebar strap break on one, and the light clip split on the other of the two of these that I bought. And this was on my regular commute; not on any off-road rides. I like the design, but they need to use a tougher plastic for these to be reliable.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by HuffyPuffy
    Looks awesome! How about tapping a hole in the bottom and then you could attach it to any number of mounting plates or just build a small bracket similar to your others with a hinge point below or to the side of the light body.

    Yeah man...the more I ponder it...the more I lean back toward the side arm mount.

  18. #18
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    Hello,
    You should use a thin aluminium plate, as thick as your saw blade you used for carving the fins; and glue it with artic silver. This plate should be drilled to make a pivot with the famous base plate you designed before for you other lights. Nice design !

  19. #19
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    Arctic Silver won't hold it according to popular opinion. It's not a structural adhesive. I could totally build another side-arm mount...I was just trying to get away from that design.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    I could totally build another side-arm mount...I was just trying to get away from that design.

    look at Scar, why change a design that works well?

  21. #21
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    I really like how you think! great design!

    How 'bout a simple bracket between the fins?

    Also: about 28 square inches of surface for each housing shown
    (30mm dia - 75mm long)



    Photobucket

  22. #22
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    simple T bracket with slot for strap.

  23. #23
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    i like them both but the 'T' bracket looks most practical...IMHO
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  24. #24
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    The T looks best to me as well.

    Now, suggest we consider allowing for 5mm OD wiring, taking the cable out the side so that the core can be used for coupling heat to the fins - then it would rock.

    Plan for the wiring would have four conductors plus a screen wired with:
    * Screen and one core for Battery -ve.
    * Two conductors for Battery +ve.
    * One conductor for control switch.
    * One conductor for PWM (proper master/slave control of both lights.

    The cable I'm thinking of is Mogami W2893 Miniature Quad Mic Cable which is awesomely rugged and super flexible (created for professional audio bantam patch cables). Best supplier found so far is Redco.com: http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=505. The individual conductors are 28AWG.

  25. #25
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    Well...there will only be one barrel. This is for Quazzle's L33.2MC XP-E board. It will be a single barrel "jet engine" helmet mounted thrower to match up to the L33.2MC XP-G that I have on my bars. The battery for the triple is big enough already...I can't fathom carrying 2x on the helmet, and I don't relish putting the battery in my pack. What if I don't wanna wear a pack? Most of my shirts aren't "riding jerseys" with pockets.

    Therefore...the "T" design will not be terribly applicable...it would basically just turn into an "L" design as I've done before. Plus...the "T" design has no vertical pivot.

    Regarding Scar's design...it works well as long as you don't have a hump in the middle of the helmet like the Bell Influx that I use. Then the light has to sit off-center. I don't like that either. I also prefer having the light sit lower than the crown of the helmet down toward the front above the visor. It's nice'n'flat there so it'll sit in the center and not get yanked off by a limb. We'll see.

    As for size...it's 25mm x 75mm...so slightly smaller than the CAD above.

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