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  1. #1
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    How hard is it to replace LEDs in a Gemini Duo?

    I have a Gemini Duo (and Yinding Duo clone) that have older XM-L LEDs. I would like to upgrade them to XM-L2 emitters with warmer tints.

    Is this doable for someone without advanced soldering skills? I have soldered car stereo wires and RC car battery pack connectors in the past, so I know how to solder, but I don't consider myself very good at it. (I always had a tough time with Dean's connectors).

    I'm going to do some searches, but does anyone have links handy to walkthroughs or tutorials?

    Also, any good places in particular to source the emitters?

  2. #2
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    I get my emitters from FastTech. I've been using XM-L2 T5 5B1 tints: https://www.fasttech.com/p/1425100 Nice neutral white, slighter more toward warm than your usual neutral white. If you're in the US you can buy from Mountain Electronics (a BLF member well respected): XM-L2 .

    I'm about to replace my cool white emitters in my SolarStorm X3.

    -Garry

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I get my emitters from FastTech. I've been using XM-L2 T5 5B1 tints: https://www.fasttech.com/p/1425100 Nice neutral white, slighter more toward warm than your usual neutral white. If you're in the US you can buy from Mountain Electronics (a BLF member well respected): XM-L2 .

    I'm about to replace my cool white emitters in my SolarStorm X3.

    -Garry
    Awesome, thanks for the links. Keep me posted on how your project goes.

  4. #4
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    Personally if I was going to the effort of replacing LEDs I would go for a higher output than a T5 bin, and would be looking for a U2 bin. How much difference does it make? About 15%

    Tint is very much a personal preference issue - holy wars have been started for less, but with that caveat, my personal preference is for 3C, but haven't seen any suitable. Somewhere in between would be 2 of XM-L2 U2-4C. The chart below is a useful way of visualising the different tints.



    You will also need to wire them up correctly - you will note that there are three wires in the pic below - from the driver to the bottom +, from the driver to the top - & connecting the other + & - terminals


    Soldering to a base plate is fairly simple - make sure your iron is hot, tin the wires, tin the base plate, hold the 2 together, apply the iron until the solder runs, remove iron & continue to hold the wires to the plate until it has cooled. You will also need some heatsink glue to affix the plates to the light

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by find_bruce View Post
    Personally if I was going to the effort of replacing LEDs I would go for a higher output than a T5 bin, and would be looking for a U2 bin. How much difference does it make? About 15%

    Tint is very much a personal preference issue - holy wars have been started for less, but with that caveat, my personal preference is for 3C, but haven't seen any suitable. Somewhere in between would be 2 of XM-L2 U2-4C. The chart below is a useful way of visualising the different tints.
    Problem is, that there is no U2 bin with a 4C tint, this one is just a fake (doesn't occur in the Cree datasheets either). The highest bin for the 4C tint is (sadly) tT5.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by inch View Post
    Problem is, that there is no U2 bin with a 4C tint, this one is just a fake (doesn't occur in the Cree datasheets either). The highest bin for the 4C tint is (sadly) tT5.
    IMO that is part of the standard practice of the Chinese LED sellers. They know that almost nobody has the instruments available to test the product for its capability so they label it as favorably as possible to attract sales.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the heads up inch - fasttech have been pretty good at not making outlandish claims, sad to see that might have changed.

  8. #8
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    XM-L2 T5 5B1 tints

    Gary, old post but how did that turn out?

    Sorry if the report's somewhere else...

    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I get my emitters from FastTech. I've been using XM-L2 T5 5B1 tints: https://www.fasttech.com/p/1425100 Nice neutral white, slighter more toward warm than your usual neutral white. If you're in the US you can buy from Mountain Electronics (a BLF member well respected): XM-L2 .

    I'm about to replace my cool white emitters in my SolarStorm X3.

    -Garry

  9. #9
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    It's awesome! Pretty easy to do. (Not ridden with it, but done numerous beamshots & tests posted here and there. I'm out and about on my cell, so check the Solar Storm X3 thread (started by TiGeo I think) where I posted a link to my photo gallery.
    -Garry

  10. #10
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    Use the flux paste, you will become much better at soldering.
    I will suffer no butt-hurt fools!

  11. #11
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    Thx, found it. But, why do you need lights, doesn't Nanty Glow in the dark?

    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    It's awesome! Pretty easy to do. (Not ridden with it, but done numerous beamshots & tests posted here and there. I'm out and about on my cell, so check the Solar Storm X3 thread (started by TiGeo I think) where I posted a link to my photo gallery.
    -Garry

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